Adolf Hamster

Well this is going to be more my "so you wont take your hits eh?" Gun for when the m4, f2000, m203 and mg42 have failed to provide sufficient persuasion.

Also because its tiny and light.

Tis a jg recoil one, but the recoil will be the first thing coming out of it, needs a delayer chip but otherwise it's already a decent wee hose.

Although considering the potential to half stroke it and trade a little accuracy for a swarm of angry bees

Didn't even know JG did recoil stuff, is it a TM clone or something?

dunno, it's a different system to the pneumatic ones g&g use, regardless it's getting removed for the sake of reliability.

Is there just a pit of broken airsoft guns laying in a field somewhere? 

nah it's a mate's tanaka, needed some corrective surgery for it's previous "creative" gunsmithing repairs.

did not feed, i think the p90 tappet plate is the issue, it's not drawing far enough back, so i guess i'm stuck having to find an actual f2000 one now.....

buggery. and f2000 parts aren't exactly plentiful here either. might be worth checking places like evike or ebay US and see if theres some cheap shipping

yeah, it's a pita, maybe at some point i should just polarstar it.

my side option would be an extention plate on the sector gear with a longer stroke.

How in the fuck did you manage that?

dropped it sideways onto the mag, thought the mag was the only bit got bent, but looks like the reciever is aluminium and easy bent.

fortunately there's plenty of room inside so i think i'm going to get some steel bar and bolt it on the sides to reinforce it.

possibly, i can't decide between old school akm, ak74u with folding stock and big can, or going dmr with a gbb dragonuv.

either way the most modern thing i'd put on an ak is a red dot, and that's only because red dots rule

You could get a PK-AS sight for it

possibly, i'll likely run with irons for a while then make my mind up.

although i tend to find any gun running irons i tend to revert to just watching bb impacts, whereas a well zeroed red dot has me actually aiming with it.

I would imagine version 6 gearboxes are shimmed like tight version 3's. Where you shim the box like normal making a note of the shim count either side of every gear. Then just take the tappet and sector with the other side of the gearbox and work out how many shims need to move to that side for the tappet to run free. Then make that adjustment to the other gears and check it's all running nice. It does mean you get some funky pinion engagement at times but it's normally decent enough that it's not going to cause problems.

 

Its not the gears are my problem, its the tappet itself, the original tappet broke and the guarder tappet thats in there now is a smidge on the tight side at the front of the box between the nozzle and the case.

Even at it's infamous 1500rpm that's still £10 per minute! I imagine yours could shoot a lot faster too.

thought the original was 1200rpm?

that's what mine's shooting at anyway.

had an engagement with a chap using a glock carbine and somehow i ran out of ammo first  that's what i get for understanding the principle of suppresive fire.

Theres a bit of debate on that. 1200 rpm was the average - depending on the bolt installed it was anywhere between 900-1500 rpm

it is, but not as bad as you'd think when you consider you don't need any spare mags/speedloaders/other random paraphernalia just the gun and a bag o bb's

I need to convince my lazy mate who owns a M249 to sell it to me...He hasn't played since October.  Just the gun and nothing else does sound very appealing. 

definately a good idea man, support guns offer a completely different kind of fun when you can do actual suppressive fire and hold an entire team at bay.

most fun i've ever had airsofting was when i borrowed a mate's m60, only time i've seen people blatantly not taking hits and not got annoyed about it because i'd killed them about 20 times per person and i sympathised with the hopelessness of their plight.

admittedly you can get the same effect with an arp9 and a drum mag for the same weight as just the stock on the mg, but there's something so satisfying about having a freaking massive gun.

i appreciate the advice, i get what you're saying that the tappet plate could be hitting the cylinder and stretching it.

there's no tappet "window" on this box per say, it's a really strange design (a 2 peice split with the handguard being it's own unit with all the gears and the top being a big rectangular box with the cylinder/tappet)

the brass clip is more like a washer- it's mounting hole is dead centre and there's about 2.5-3mm extra draw, and it's coupled with the longest nozzle i've seen on an AEG (think double m4 length)

like i say, gun is bone stock, i wouldn't even have had it apart if it hadn't eaten the tappet plate (after about 15k rounds), so atm i'm suspecting either a weak tappet plate or too strong a return spring being the main culprits.

only other possibility is given the handguard unit is a seperate peice maybe it slid out of position when being carried and made the difference.

The window I refer to is how that 7mm or 8mm sits and allows feed/sealing

if you had a nozzle too short you will have lovely feeding but $hit seals

if you had a nozzle that was too long you get great seals but $hit feeding

so all this crap is about ensuring the nozzle is correct length

(which it probably is)

and then ensuring the "window" or where the tappet/nozzle moves

allows the correct "window" position of nozzle retracting/returning

if it is operating say more than 0.5mm out of whack/position

you will get either feed/seal issues

retracting tappet too far trying to compensate or increase stuff

runs the risk of smashing crap out of tappet if not checked

or at the very least wearing out the fin very very quickly

That window wasthe where there 7 or 8mm movement is sitting bang on

not a rear inspection window like many v2's have

ensuring it all operates within the correct position/window/tolerance  etc...

yeah, it's a very long nozzle due to the hop design, and i suspect they have the long stroke on the tappet to keep feeding issues down, not sure why it's such a strong spring as it's not like it needs to deal with midcaps.

she shoots and feeds incredibly well, so it's safe to assume they're right with the nozzle/stroke combination. although i still think the spring is way too strong which might be why it died.

we'll see how this new plate works out, and if it eats that one i'll swap the spring out for a weaker one and check it's not bottoming out

I'm going for a lighter setup, so ive swapped the awesome but heavy vltor rail for an moe hanguard so i bought a gas block rail so i can still attatch the bipod and i've also decided to get a proper flip to side mount rather than the qd mount i have for the magnifier.

Also an sa80 sling so i dont have to constantly switch the one off the f2000

I love my MOE Handguard. Fits my battery perfectly and is so much lighter than the other rails I have. Looks great too imo. 

I'm rear wired, because its bad enough dissassembling a king arms m4 without front wiring, but its made the gun so much more pointable.

Meanwhile the f2000 still isnt feeding, the sig is shooting harder than most rifles, the 1911 is still leaking gas and the mg has eaten its own tappet plate.

Airsoft life eh?