Adolf Hamster
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Everything posted by Adolf Hamster
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damn right, i'd join you but i'm a couple of years ahead on this one
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jesus is that how cheap those things are!?
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ahh yes, i keep forgetting they do plastic reciever ones too. as a general rule i assume the person asking is wanting a metal reciever on an ak. they're the rental gun of choice on a lot of sites for good reason. i must admit though, jg's ebb offerings are damn fine guns, the blowback is weak as hell and liable to break but it can be removed and goddamn if the box doesn't run silky smooth.
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I live under a rock, theyre doing steel recievers now? If the bluing is decent then that sounds like a damn fine option on paper.
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You want a budget ak its gotta be jg or cyma You want something more solid (ie steel) then lct or e&l although i picked up an lct recently and i'm not entirely enthused at some elements of the quality/design compared to e&l's offerings.
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hmmm, think i'm changing my opinion on lct....
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I've heard enough about lemons from both sides to be fair, only ever purchased/used LCTs but had a go with E&Ls and they've both been great. I think the best bet is to lean to whatevers cheapest and that tends to be E&L now that Nuprol have price hiked the LCTs, fire support is no longer my go to for 'premium' AK shopping like it has been 😐
Can't you just unscrew the hop and push it forward? I'm pretty sure I can do that with my 74u to get at the gearbox without removing the outer barrel, etc.
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dear airsoft manufacturers
please stop using press-fit pins that require removal for regular maintenance purposes.
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Macks airsoft dreamers of the week thread
Adolf Hamster replied to Mack's topic in General Discussion
all we need is the seller to come and tell us which one of us is right now don't worry man, we won't tell -
welcome we have a fair few tinkerers on here, @AK47frizzle is one of our most prominent 3-d printing aficionado's. i'm more the "add grub screws and o-rings until it works" kind of tinkerer
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i do it to me own guns, and i'll do it to me mates guns, but i can see his viewpoint that it's a band-aid for the proper solution of having good o-rings and certainly if i was being paid good money to work on a strangers gun i'd stay away from the ptfe. it's not as egregious as some of the "uses" of ptfe tape out there, most notably people using it as replacement screw threads.....
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Macks airsoft dreamers of the week thread
Adolf Hamster replied to Mack's topic in General Discussion
yep i'd wager his subconcious is responsible for the price because it knows he'd regret selling it. -
Macks airsoft dreamers of the week thread
Adolf Hamster replied to Mack's topic in General Discussion
Looking at the description i dont think he actually wants it to sell -
are you sure the leak is at the cylinder head and not the piston? that looks like a standard m4 type so either of the 2 you link to should work. at the risk of invoking the wrath of negative airsoft you can also patch up the seal of the existing head with ptfe tape. it's worth bearing in mind that the air tube on different brands of cylinder head can be slightly different, so a given cylinder head with a narrower tube can simply move the air leak issue on to the nozzle side if it's not matched with an appropriate nozzle.
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hard to tell without looking inside the box. possibly the rough sound is either bad shimming or the motor is too tight (easy to tell, tighten it in, then loosen it gradually until you find that sweet spot of best sound) motor dropping out could be a number of things, if it's too tight it could be stalling or possibly with age you could be looking at carbon on the trigger contacts (assuming it doesn't have a mosfet fitted) i'd hold fire on the parts spree initially and just take a look at what's already in there, no sense replacing something that's still doing its job ok.
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from what i've seen they don't have too much trouble hopping in the .3g range, although you might struggle going with the proper heavies (0.4g and up) hopping heavies at 1j is definately possible, although it may require some tinkering.
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Thats the low profile version, so you can get nice and low to the ground when sneakin
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Krytac Pdw Good Enough for Woodland?
Adolf Hamster replied to JS101's topic in Guns, Gear & Loadouts
Barrel length on its own doesnt mean much within the extremes. The other factors of accuracy make for much bigger problems to tackle. -
well there's your problem.... softer rubber should help, personally i find PDI W-hop or maple leaf macaron in the 50 degree range work quite well. depends on the model, but some of the raiders come with aluminium barrels of pretty shoddy quality, although the ones from brass in their higher end models are decent enough. shouldn't be too hard. air seal is a big one on a stock gun, when you chrono you want every shot chrono'ing the same fps each time, if any given shot is over or under by a few fps then it'll mess up your accuracy. a really good gun will have as low as ±1fps shot-shot have a look here to see what i mean when i'm talking about air seal, although pay particular attention to the intro because it might not be worth pulling the box apart when you don't have a backup:
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again hudson is spot on, hop/barrel upgrades won't do much if you're still firing cheap 0.2's. for an assault gun around the 0.3g range is a nice balance of price/performance. flat hops can be cheap and effective, although can be a tad sensitive to adjust. the ml macaron/omega nub combo is pretty good although it can have feeding issues in some guns. i'd advise against R-hops, when done right they can work well but it's a pain to do the installation and odds are it'll make things worse. you'll also want to be making sure your air seal is spot on (your symptom for that is vertical dispersion/a wide range of fps readings on the chrono) and that you're keeping the barrel squeaky clean.
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hudson is bang on the money, the ZCI 6.02's are pretty decent barrels and you don't want to be messing with the length too much as any improvement from the barrel will easily be outweighed by poor voluming.
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the wiring in the magwell looks like standard ak wiring to me, you'd expect a different set of cables on an HPA the real sign is an airline poking out of the gun somewhere (normally the bottom of the grip) i hope he didn't charge you hpa conversion prices for an aeg....
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who told you this? the only thing i can think they were referring to is an HPA conversion. an AEG uses as tommikka says a gearbox which is essentially a little compressor that pressurises air to fire. an HPA uses a pre-charged external tank (usually in the region of 3000+PSI) that's regulated down to a firing pressure (which is adjustable) you can convert this gun to hpa, however this is not a cheap thing to do and means not only are you going to need to carry the gun around, but also a tank, regulator and air line.
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it's an aeg, you don't use gas, it takes a battery
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I feel like i should hate it but i really dont. Good job on making something different, and avoiding the curse of the buffer tube stock.
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If the holster is tight just put your thumb against the back of the slide when holstering to keep it in battery. Better than messing with the balance of the guns mechanism
