Skara
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Everything posted by Skara
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So I ended up spending way more money than anticipated. Started off with a nice order from Varuste.net where I bought a DD hammocks tarp, a DC4 sharpening stone and a Nalgene bottle (not properly airsoft related), then bought a M600P repro torch with a few accessories that I have yet to try because my rechargeable 123s are stuck somewhere, then saw a nice Source Convertube (turns a basic water bottle into a bladder) because reasons as I already have two Source bladders (one 3l, one 2l) and about 5 minutes ago I bought a Retro Arms V3 gearbox. It's not over though, I have some other bits and bobs in my shopping cart on another website (namely Retro Arms AK selector and screw, 2x RA M4 magazine releases, a pressure pad for a friend and then some supplies like BBs and gas)
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Well at this point I think the guy needs exposed. One thing is to not be the best tech around, the possibility of fucking something up may be low but are never zero (seen it first hand), but proactively replacing a gun's internals with cheap shit so that you can keep those parts for you/resell them is wrong and needs addressed, period. Also, want to talk about aluminium compression parts? on a 1.8J gun and the cheapest of cheap Specna/Dboys/AimTop cast gearbox shells? lmao. -
ICS runs a proprietary gearbox, so yeah, you screwed up
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Have you tried using a different brand of BBs?
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Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread
Skara replied to Solly4568's topic in Single Action Guns
Nope, don't think it's possible to holster it, your best bet is a 2 points sling. Yes it will -
Once again Americans/HPA users/Geardo's ruin it for the rest of us
Skara replied to rj1986's topic in General Discussion
Clickbait title, poor quality content, airsoft drama. Kicking Mustang is that you?- 159 replies
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Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread
Skara replied to Solly4568's topic in Single Action Guns
One of the problems the AS01 and 02 had was that the cylinder was made of brass and the butt plate (where the charging handle screws onto) was simply held in place by four small, presumably steel, pins. The pins being much harder than brass would then carve their way out of the cylinder body, causing catastrophic failures. A one piece cylinder, as the name suggests, has the cylinder body and butt plate made of a single solid block of metal, which makes it much, much stronger. Regarding the hop rubber, it's up to you really, when I had mine a simple Maple Leaf Decepticon worked exceptionally well (if you go with concave rubbers you need a concave tensioner, which on the striker implies replacing the hop up arm because it has a very thin integrated one) but there are so many available it's not even fun. The new design of the cocking indicator should be much better although being Ares I don't really trust them on actually improving something. -
Ares Amoeba Striker AS-01/AS-02 Owners Thread
Skara replied to Solly4568's topic in Single Action Guns
So, yours is the new version with the one piece cylinder, which will save you a fair bit of money! It still requires a TDC wheel (Action Army makes the best one) because the grub screw has a tendency to unscrew itself with use, then I'd look at a new o-ring for the piston head (it's AEG spec so any AEG o-ring will do), new hop rubber because the stock one is pisspoor quality and, if you can find it, a Gunsmithy hop up arm. You can keep the stock hop chamber because it's decent and seals well. If you're looking at reducing the sound, I'm afraid there's not much you can do, airbrakes don't really work on this gun and the cylinder volume is barely enough for 0.32s, let alone heavier BBs. -
Nice and easy day on the field, despite the 30+ degrees, played in the lower part where it is a little cooler and there is more shade. All well until the last game, where my PDW suddenly stopped working, it was feeding fine but air wasn't coming out, at first I thought the piston head had come loose just like what happened to my M4, but once I got home I cracked it open to find that the tappet plate spring had snapped in half. Easy fix at least, luckily I had my pistol (was testing out the new Deadly Customs holster I bought, awesome bit of kit btw). This was the last Sunday game before summer break, from next week we will play on Friday night.
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Depends on how it's shaped, it can, because it picks up the tappet plate before the pin on the sector gear. I'm using this (picture below) with the flat side on the left (pickup) so the nozzle movement isn't anticipated much.
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It's a matter of the hop arm not pushing down enough rather than hop rubber hardness tbf. Back when I wasn't running Maxx hop units I used to shim my tensioners with half of a standard tube tensioner (tensioner-ception) placed between the hop arm and actual tensioner. A square piece of hop rubber will also do, as @Adolf Hamstersuggested, but try to place it between the arm and Omega nub.
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Yes there is, you need to cut down the tappet plate so its release is anticipated. Unfortunately, how much you cut is mostly trial and error unless you buy a TopMax (small italian company) tappet plate which has guide cuts for various lengths (picture attached, top is V2, bottom is V3). In theory the first cut is for 1/2 teeth knocked off the release side, the second equals 3 teeth and the third is 4 teeth removed, in practice I use these two as a guide and cut other plates accordingly.
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No derp, it's what I did, reshaped the face of the fin and now it is half a millimetre less prominent and does more of a curve rather than two separate steps, just to gain that fraction of a second. And cut off a section from the bottom to allow for an earlier release. Essentially I delayed the nozzle movement backwards and anticipated the piston release. If it doesn't work for me, no biggie, I have stocked quite a few tappet plates just in case I mess up Back to the OP: as I said the warhead motor spins so fast it causes all sorts of issues if a gun is not properly tuned.
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True, I generally only remove teeth from the pickup side too, but in the case of my AK I was loosing air because the tappet plate was being pulled before the piston could impact the cylinder head (fucker does 24 RPS on a 7.4), my possible solution to this was to cut down a release tooth on the sector (along with the two pickup teeth I had removed already), didn't loose any volume as the piston still travels past the whole port on the cylinder, in addition to that I installed a delayer that is very, very thin on the pickup side and modified the tappet plate fin by shortening it (releases early) and removing some material from the pickup point (picks up later). A whole bunch of work to, hopefully, get it to feed with high caps and get to shoot within my 1J limit as it was doing 1.1 on a M90 (pretty silly air seal)
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Warhead motors fuck up the gearbox timing. I've had the same experience with both my motors, I say it's due to the sheer inertia of the system. If you have a delayer, remove it, also try shaving a couple of millimetres off the tappet plate fin, and while you're there check if removing two teeth off the sector (one pickup, one release) would give more time to the nozzle to seal.
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E&L gearbox crapped itself and now the selector lever screw hole is fucked.
Should I call it quits and install a cyma gearbox shell in it? (Will transplant all the internals obviously)
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hard to say really.
the only work i've done with a non-standard shell in an e&l body was installing a v3 fusion engine, which took a little fettling.
i have worked on a retro arms box, although that was in an lct body, can't say i was particularly impressed with it, shiny yes but didn't seem to be practically any better than a stock casing.
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FTFY.
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If you want a good, not too expensive, cool running motor, get a ZCI 22tpa. I have one in my PDW (literally the only gun I run on 11.1s) and the cycle time in semi auto is stupid, not quite warhead levels of stupid but certainly more stupid than a 16tpa SHS HT motor. Okay mine pulls a 13:1 gearset at 25 RPS on a 11.1 but if semi auto is your goal, it's the way to go (without dishing for a warhead). I have yet to experience overheating in that thing, even after some binary spam it stays cool. Regarding the mosfet, the AB++ is not far from the Hybrid in terms of price. I'm sure it's a good mosfet (haven't tried one myself) but from my experience with Hybrids, you can't really go wrong with them.
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I might have phrased it wrong, let me reiterate. I still want one because I like the scout rifle concept and, in my eyes, it's an iconic rifle. Wouldn't be using it as a proper sniper rifle though, If I were to get one I would slap a low powered long eye relief scout optic (plain irons or a small red dot as an alternative), lower the power to no MED levels and enjoy the challenge.
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I want one, but at the same time my T-11 is pretty much bang on and I'm afraid it won't get used nowhere near as much as the price tag requires.
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I run a Midland shoulder mic (model is MA-26LK) with a simple single ear plug routed through a shoulder strap either on my chest rigs or on my backpacks. Simple, cost effective (~€30) and doesn't involve bulky headsets that will only make you sweat more. EDIT: whatever you buy, go for Kenwood 2 pin connectors
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Turns out my piston head shook itself loose inside the gearbox.
Now there's a metric fuckton of thread lock in there.
Try and come out now, twat!
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'nother tournament done, this one was short and we ended up 2nd out of 12 teams, with just a handful of points separating us from both the first and third places. Not bad considering that out of 8 people, three were at their first event and two others haven't played in years. My gun stopped feeding on the last objective for no reason, BBs were being loaded into the hop unit but they couldn't be pushed out, so I suspect the piston head came loose inside the gearbox (which seems to cycle as normal, nozzle moves as intended), it's one of those cases where a pistol would have been nice to have but again, for the remaining 99.98% of situations it's just extra weight and bulk. Nonetheless it was a fun event, shame that it was a 3h drive to and 3h drive from, for a 2.5/3h event.
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Smol question: Does anyone know of a magazine base plate that doesn't "ride up" as much as the stock TM plate? Asking because the TM plate is a little bit too thick on the top (where the guide rails for the magazine base are) and prevent the magazine release from engaging the mag cutout. I know the rubbery ranger plates I'm using on my AAP mags work but they're a bit shit and some of them are broken already despite me not having dropped those mags, not even once by accident.
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If ALL the compression parts inside the gearbox seal (so: piston head to cylinder, cylinder to cylinder head, cylinder head to nozzle in its fully extended position) then the issue is most likely around the hop up area. Check if your nozzle to hop rubber seal is good, install the gearbox with the nozzle at its resting position (fully extended) inside the gun, then shine a light down the muzzle and check if there is any light coming through the hop unit's feed tube. If there is, then your hop rubber is worn/torn or the nozzle is too short. Replace accordingly. If your nozzle doesn't have an o-ring, replace it regardless, make sure to measure its length with a caliper and buy accordingly. DO. NOT. USE. PTFE. TAPE. TO. SEAL. COMPRESSION. PARTS.
