Iceni

Glad it's all working out Have fun with it

Aug's are defiantly one of the oddities of the airsoft world.

Unlike other platforms like the m4 where the gearbox is locked in place and you reference everything to the gearbox, Augs have no reference or fixed points internally. It's more of a relationship.

The only real fixed point is the back of the spacer on the back of the hop. It's that engagement that sets everything else up and it took me a while to work it all out.

The hop position in the upper, Irrelevant. It just needs to move freely.
Magwell plate, irrelevant. It'll self position to the mag, and line up to the hop automatically.
Gearbox position, irrelevant. The hop will set the distance and put load onto the gearbox plate, I actually killed a magwell plate when I first got an AUG thinking shimming a gearbox would be a good idea, it's not. Let the hop spring do all that work.
Even the tappet plate/airnozzle are largely irrelevant. You need just enough space to feed well, but if it's pushing too hard on the hop the tappet spring is weak enough that it seats correctly anyway. And doesn't push the gearbox off the hop.

It's a weird gun to understand. But also very simple and very clever when you do understand it. It's by far my favourite internal design. You can set everything on the gearbox external to the body, even motor height. And the rest just works if you let it work. Most Augs i've looked at second hand that have issues all relate to the hop not moving correctly, and people going round in circles trying to fix a problem they created.

Sort the hop unit before you strip the gearbox. Chances are it'll want a hop rubber as well. I tend to stick with mounded types, and either g&g green, or prommy purples. I've never used a maple leaf in an aug.

Air nozzles on the gearbox are an absolute pain in the ass. The ASG ultimate/Lonex one is the one I tend to go for if you need a new one. Avoid pretty much everything else especially the metal ones they tend to be the wrong length even if branded for the AUG. I think a lot are G36 nozzles and the AUG one has a slightly different spec.

The rest of the gearbox is bullet proof. AK front contacts, and a easy to service rear contact for auto. Mostfet install can be done with the gearbox closed. They benefit from silent piston/cylinder heads as it makes them quieter to shoot (slightly). Motors are on a cage, TM gears are cheese so if you upgrade the FPS past 300 just be aware the gears are not going to last.

There is also a plastic spacer that sits on the back of the hop. This needs to be on. Without it the hop won't sit in the correct place. As the hop/Gearbox alignment is done on that hop spring pushing the spacer onto the gearbox, So the hop/Gearbox is always touching. When you assemble the upper to the lower, if you are gentle you should be able to slightly feel the hop spring moving and pushing the upper off the gearbox in the last 3-5mm of body lockup.

All of the plastic hops i've used in augs have been good. CNC ones however are not as friendly. You have to spend a little more time with them to get them right, and that time doesn't translate into the hop working any better than the basic plastic ones. I have never played with the lonex/ASG ultimate metal units, so they may or may not be good.

If you put new screws in to retain the hop unit then just make sure the hop has full spring movement forwards and backwards. It's the tension of that spring that helps lock the body take-down pin by putting a little side load on the pin. It also removes some of the upper/lower wobble. And in addition to that if you set it so the barrel is locked then you will have feeding issues, it also means you can't shim an aug barrel to the outer barrel (augs actually have 3 barrels inner, outer, and a thin aluminium sleeve) The inner needs to move freely, and provided the barrel and hop are springy then you should be golden. Some after market inner barrels can be too thick for the AUG and cause this problem, So it's a critical part of the build to make sure the hop is free.

Also watch out for the brass spacer ring that sits in the front part of the hop. They can interfere with the screws and reduce the spring travel distance. Personally I cut the hop rubber down and put the ring inside of the C-clip area, Leaving everything forward of the c-clip open.



£6 for a plastic replacement.
https://www.gearofwar.co.uk/product/jg-aug-hop-unit/


 

usually you'd just swap 2 of the wires on the motor to reverse a brushless motor, Fairly common in RC cars. I can't see the warhead been any different.

We could take our birthday presents in to show off in assembly, I remember one of my friends taking in his new 410. It was still primary school so he was no older than 11. I do remember there wasn't a great deal of fuss about it. His dad brought it in with him, and the gun spent the day with the headmaster. Most of us had air rifles and had shot 410 so we were more interested in where he was planning to shoot that what he was shooting. And I'm not ancient, this was 1980's pre Dumblaine in a rural school.

Cyma Galil SAR.

https://bbguns4less.co.uk/products/cyma-cm043b-galil-sar-flolding-stock-in-black.html

I had some 5mm x 6mm plasticard lengths for building models. The business end got whittled to a taper.

https://www.expotools.com/acatalog/PMS1925-Plastruct---Pack-of-5---4.76-x-6.40-PMS1925.html
 

It's not the springs. It's the mag inner sitting too far out of the feed tube allowing the bb retention nub to close. If you pull on the front bottom of the mag they will feed again as this pushes the nub back open. You need to shim your mag inners higher at the rear, and securely peg them in place.

I had to do the same thing with my LCT midcaps. And the review I wrote also mentions this and has the shimming solution. If that solution doesn't make sense just PM me, I had another guy asking about it a few months ago in PM's and I did him a more detailed explanation of the modification.

You need to inspect you mags first before you take them to bits.

The part I refer to as rollovers (blue) are the sides of the metal part of the mag where the mag comes up and over the feed nozzle. The goal is to get the top of the feed tube (purple) to be in line with the rollovers - as show by the magazine top line (red). See image.

In order to get the feed nozzle to be inline with those rollovers you are going to have to make a few modifications to both parts of the mag.

The plastic internal bit needs a chamfer (Angled edge) filing onto the leading edge of the magazine (orange second image).

The metal tang (green) needs bending out a little to allow the plastic parts to sit higher.

Once you have the feed nozzle in line with the magazine top line doing these actions you will then need to shim the plastic parts into place.

I made pegs/wedges. All they are is plastic that has been shaped to hold the plastic part of the magazine tight to the magazine top line. Those wedges are long enough that the magazine base plate holds them in and up. Stopping the feed tube falling away from the hop unit in the gun.

 

https://extremeairsoft.co.uk/shop/assault-rifles/electric-aeg-rifles/ak47/el-elaks74un-a-tactical-mod-a-aeg-platinum/

 

What did you measure it with? Reason I ask is those measurements don't line up with metric standards. It's also not imperial standard (usually 1/64th's).

Imperial would be 1/16 x 19/32 (1.587mm x 15.081mm). But that gets factored back into metric for most sites and is sold as a 1.6mm x 15.1mm

 

You can find rings done to 1/128th's In that case it's closer to a 9/128 x 19/32 (1.78 x 15.081mm) sold as 1.8x15.1mm. Not common at all, but you can import them. I'd measure twice to be absolutely sure that is the dimensions you need.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/383165765183?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28

I'd say it would depend on what you are going to do with it.

I don't think I can add more than what was added in that thread. The only other AK74SU to look at would perhaps be a Bolt, They have a standard and tactical variant. Both have the Blowback feature, and it's a different blowback to most guns running on the piston rather than a compressed air leach system. The only real disadvantage is both variants  are forward wired with the battery sitting in the fore grip, so they only fit small batteries and not the big sticks that most AK's use.

https://gunfire.com/en/products/aksu74-b-r-s-s-assault-rifle-replica-1152222694.html
 

https://gunfire.com/en/products/aksu74-tac-b-r-s-s-carbine-replica-1152226152.html

 

The only way to get a better variant over that is either a Daytona conversion, or GBB variant.

I'd try to put an order in just to see if they have that yet, I can't see anything on the website that states anything. So you won't know unless you try.

 

If you look at vests on that page and filter with "WZ.93" they have several.

not sure if this link will work.

https://gtac.pl/eng_m_Tactical-equipment_Tactical-vests-11183.html?filter_traits[27]=&filter_traits[31]=&filter_traits[29]=&filter_traits[28]=&filter_traits[30]=&filter_price=&filter_text=wz.93&filter_new=&filter_bestseller=&filter_promotion=&filter_instock=&filter_producer=

https://gtac.pl/product-eng-1152215800-Plate-Carrier-Tactical-Vest-WZ-93-Woodland-Panther.html

Oh one last thing, Expect the Zip to fail very quickly. I think mine lasted about a week. Still just as warm buttoned but they can end up looking tatty if the zip is half hanging off!

Had one of those for a few years, probably the warmest jacket you can buy for that cheap.

Leave the fur collar on, You can button up all the way to the neck and trust me when I say you will cook.

 

Fix the AUG :D.

Make a thread and tag me up, I'll help if it's possible. It's not like there difficult to work on.

Flux, flux  and more flux!

Colophony is dirt cheap for a tin, like £2 a tin on ebay. It makes any soldering job 100% easier. It's a glass like resin, If you want a liquid type dissolve a chunk in some isopropanol. If you use it in solid for you melt it with the iron then let it flow off the iron onto the bits you want to solder.

You get faster heat transfer, and the solder just wets out instantly. Seriously if you hate soldering it'll make your life so much easier.

You don't need to clean afterwards, but if you want things perfect just a little isopropanol will remove any leftovers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40g-for-the-price-20g-tin-Solid-soldering-flux-COLOPHONY-KALAFONIA/121041198430?epid=1123157031&hash=item1c2e9e1d5e%3Ag%3Ac-UAAOxysE5SbCg8&LH_BIN=1

Could always grab the G3 3A3-w with the wider fore-end. Then just pick up a real steel slim grip from Zib, and at the same time grab the proper sling, muzzle protector, and sight drum.

https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lct-lc-3a3-w-green-aeg-wide-foregrip-version
 

http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/90583

 

http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/100045

 

http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/100053

http://www.zib-militaria.de/epages/61431412.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/61431412/Products/100035


If you are looking at cheaper G3's I personally wouldn't bother. There isn't one out there that is even remotely close to the LCT. I love mine. It's worth saving for.

The Sony a58 has some screen articulation. It doesn't pull to the side and spin round for selfies. But it does pull out for it you want to take pictures at ground level, or from waist height standing.

For video the screen articulation might be nice, but for regular camera pictures, you will be looking through the viewfinder. It's digital on the A58 like a little screen inside the viewfinder. It's not like a regular viewfinder, there is a lot more information regarding the image, and because it's a screen it's backlit so when you use the A58 at night you can actually see through the viewfinder. A regular DLSR viewfinder generally just looks black when taking pictures at night and you have to revert to using the rear screen.

Another tool that might help you is the Dyxum lens database.

https://www.dyxum.com/lenses/results.asp?chbLensType=3

Just about every lens for the Minolta/Sony A mount is reviewed in it. It takes a lot of the guesswork out of older lenses.

https://www.dyxum.com/lenses/Minolta-AF-28mm-F2.8_lens12.html

 

https://www.dyxum.com/lenses/Minolta-AF-50mm-F1.7_lens17.html

 

There the reviews for the 2 primes I listed above.

 

 

Look at lenses not cameras.

Sony Alpha Cameras have lens compatibility right back through to Minolta.

That goes a long way when you are setting up. As the older Minolta lenses are superb.

Something like the Sony A58 (older 20Mp DLSR) can be had for £200 ish.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sony-Alpha-SLT-A58-20-4MP-Digital-SLR-SLT-Camera/352664138790?epid=144298956&hash=item521c6bb426:g:~8cAAOSwD4Nc2sbm&frcectupt=true

A set of minolta primes can be had very cheap to go with that.

28mm £45.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Minolta-AF-Lens-28mm-f-2-8-Wide-Angle-Lens-for-Sony-A-Mount/123773294118?hash=item1cd1769626:g:xToAAOSw-oJc4YEM&frcectupt=true

 

50mm £52
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Minolta-50mm-F-1-7-AF-Prime-Lens-Sony-for-SLR-SLT-A99-A77-A68-A58-A57-A33-A350/222694478466?epid=102490794&hash=item33d9a01282&enc=AQADAAADAFjVrDbVsZ8oH%2F8PNHtt9VX4%2Fw7FZcmMuqsX8uaFEduVTcHA53AoRgXU6SNai0pRzzrXf9Y1Rf5TqHHtybi4RwzQEZaqefQMnm1wLyH5CVFwQUfp%2FJPjOIGbrFizEciEh4bIZT6UPSFekNvA5o%2FAJjfg1HxzqVkibNe%2FJJwgKmUtPP%2BFCyRhkdpEJpeWGGWTArAy%2Ft9u4XpCruKnBYc9Mg9Y%2FT4ZqWhUFU%2BKbGWgR4N8mtVttTYyPOC5eOlj91HBgaZbJrIpAOQyc0j2GzRokj3xxOwuuqC%2BB7ofGB20Kf5kKrjzNj%2F8aUa031ugCBqatBOIaPYpEVzvpQ3Mg%2BoEBKYoc9PPuYm1j9NLgFFIncS5Hma4bpDJToOwmgo9JppMGKwt%2BEFcQWvNBiPjccSGgx3nXZjZu7ER26SPYN23KiHm07b5JAMMi7ZNRkjJIs7lzFcmEfZS55NUeovp%2FTsDNEqZp%2B2v7aTUYWU7Ai%2BgoZ0WpVnB5UZBjKajBgPBi8ZOtootJQYkDTsirG7v4xZ61pv27ZSg6fDFd3RtpHNiFJc7YWG%2BkOwhiZGnpzJOWOh8djj3JL3xmRNch3jGhZ1UWJqxtwp%2BskXS3GWy6jlxedDrCrZs%2BkJtvoavFHkUqktPFw1jBq1EjFgjt6Y%2FSoXxqFdsyH8zIOG%2BVB269jS6w%2BX1V7BNuNNz4ghfuSRtE5DXbvnAy2nDAcNXBiSRPgoB04EGEjmljMAZkEDVH6v3Vg8R7QITByWZf1%2FMRrcVW6x3%2FxRGt8xnddRTuyA%2BdtXH%2FSNXxiVN3Yr6XKYF5Ae3T4PVP7g5CzGm%2FH9wtgv%2ByaedeveIhx4fqFOHO2uAttJFD12L%2FQTjvoMWXE%2BDnEsyzmCXQKkJOppdYJfROPYNlcPgZ5qkyjzGbayeAM7gVoToPtaEBKunD0ilX3zdVr23oFX12zYtJwNZud%2B2uLiFGvtAJF%2BP5Bd4mJDPjuINRlOqVNINxzERi6rmYDaUIzaXlUrwQO4I9VTdvepuPu0fJU5K6Q%3D%3D&checksum=2226944784662578b07458d340f2a0288ead983e3b6a&frcectupt=true

 

 

Those prime lenses are absolutely stunning lenses.

 

Perfect for portraits, Landscapes, and close up nature photography like flowers.

Absolutely useless for zoom as they only have 1 fixed focal range.

Wide open they will blur a background extremely well. Stopped up there sharp as anything else on the market.

Very very versatile, And perfect for learning photography with.


Look at how much the lenses are for the system you are looking at first. The lenses make the camera good. If you can't get cheap glass that works well then you will be having to make compromises all the time.


Another Key feature is image stabilisation. If it's on the camera body rather than the lenses then your old glass will function like modern glass. Sony put image stabilisation on the body. Nikon put it on the lenses.

 

 

 

Those bodies are by far the best M4 bodies ever produced.

They don't have any of the issues of later production, and I've never heard of one cracking.

The only issue is the bolt release scratching the body.

You should get yours rebuilt. Drop one of those E&C boxes into it with a basic fet and use it to confuse and upset M4 experts who will tell you off for the stock

The only thing you can do with magnesium if you want to spruce it up is paint it. I have no idea what they use the blacken it, but I would avoid the ALU black as it may eat into the metal.

 

The GR300S is Magnesium as well.

Very light, Very Strong. It'll fizz if you pop a drop of vinegar on some bare metal.

G&G GR300 Pro Shorty. It's the magnesium cast body variant.