Iceni

Aug....

A nice cheap A1 with a full barrel that you can drop onto the TM HC.

Failing that I'd go for the TM M93r

@Prisce I should be good, The team are fantastic. All the engineers are on point and the business is growing. I asked about boots today and he just laughed. Said pick what you want from the catalogue and it'll be here the same day. Same for tools, If I need something, Ask and it'll be en-route.

I can imagine what Haverhill is like. I did a stint with a stainless fabrication company back in the 90's. And they serviced 2 factories that classed as grim. 

One was a frozen turkey processing centre. Live came in, Frozen came out... The highlight of the day been the lung sucker. The whole place smelt like rotten blood. It actually smelt like death.

The second was a processed food company doing cheap ready meals... Oh my. I have never eaten anything by that brand, and never will.

The place I'll be working at is nothing like either of these. It's clean and smell free. Surprisingly so.  It takes about 1 minute on the line for your loin to come in frozen, Get formed, Stripped of plastic, Sliced and packaged. The total time exposed to air is very short, and it's frozen when sliced. It goes directly into the package you buy in the shop, formed on the same line.

@L3wisD I don't even know if we can buy bacon yet! I suspect if we can it'll be the gammon joints I go after for sunday dinners!

@Albiscuit The national heard is about 5.5 million pigs. 4000 a day is more than sustainable I bet they turn away farms and have a waiting list to get on. It'll be spikey as well. Once those pigs hit size every farmer is going to be trying to get in first so they don't have feed costs. So there will be a seasonal crazy period. The numbers always look overwhelming but just think like this. There's only 12kg's of bacon on a pig and 2 gammon/ham joints. That's a lot of pigs every Sunday.



 

@Prisce I'm really looking forward to it... The site does 120 tonnes of bacon a day! It's clinically clean. The site is amazing.

@L3wisD I don't think I'll have to buy bacon every again! I might end up sick of the sight of it!

You only need to give a company 14 days to arange collection, The company has to pay for that collection and it should not inconvenience you.

You need to be able to prove you sent a written deadline, so the Email has to be worded correctly.

After the deadline expires, it is your responsibility to dispose of the item.


I had a £200 fishing box delivered 2 years ago, Then 2 months later they sent me a duplicate. I gave them 14 days to collect, in an email, I got a response, They failed to collect. The fishing box after that point was legally mine. And I've not heard anything back from them about it... I've even ordered from them since.

Never had a stock TM to compare one with.

What I do know is they beat most stock 6.08 JG/Cyma/APS barrels. There about the same as an LCT 6.02.

You can polish them and they get better if you do that.

If you are in doubt ask @ak2m4 He sells enough of them to know what's what with inner barrels.

There certainly better than anything made from alumimiun. I'd have a ZCI over the like of a madbull any day of the week.

If you really wanted an upgrade you might get one of the newer polished tolleranced Lambda barrels from ak2m4. Those should certainly be an upgrade. The 6.05 lambda 5 with the 1 micron finish should outperform pretty much all stock barrels out there if the polish is right. At £40-50 I will be taking a punt on one the next time I need an upgrade.

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels/lambda-five-aeg-inner-barrel-363mm
 

https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/cylinder-heads/1-8-70-sorbo-pad

The Front element size means nothing. You have to look at the FOV values.

The Curve of the front element will give you more field of view not the size of the glass. A larger element may give better light transfer but only on a decent scope.

Looking at a static point 100M away the area you will see through each scope.

The 2-7x32 has 15.5M at 2x and 4.7M at 7x.
The 3x9x40 has 13M at 3x and 4.2M at 9x.

A different brand vortex also do a 3x9x40.
It only has 10.4M at 3x and 3.8M at 9x. Flatter front element.

Vortex also do a 3-9x50. Larger front element
It has even less FOV. 9.8M at 3x and 3.9M at 9x.

It's not a clear cut solution to just think more glass is better. Never has been. The disadvantage of a more curved front element is distortion at the field edges. However that only has a major effect if you need to use the full scope for a holdover. We don't have the range in airsoft to care about this.

Light transmission is a factor, but technology has pushed glass manufacture to a point where even cheap lenses can have clear glass with good light transmission. Long gone are the days of dark scopes because you couldn't afford premium glass.

Flatter elements are better for parallax adjustment for range finding. They give better target separation so you can use the scope as a more effective range finder provided you know the size of the object you are shooting at. Again very useful for target shooters and snipers since they operate against targets of know size. And can use a conversion table of size, zoom and parallax to work out holdovers for a killing shot.
 

You want the higher ones. Low profile ones might not let you mount the scope.

Once you have a working set of higher ones you can start to mess about finding lower ones having measured the gap. Taking the guess work out of it. Nothing worse than going too low.

Higher ones will also help with that dyei4 mask in your profile! Again going to low will mean you have to bring the rifle up higher to the eye. It's generally easier to have the scope higher and the adjustable butt plate extended down to make  your sighting position as natural and comfortable as possible. It'll improve your aim because everything will be working with your body shape rather than you having to contort to the gun.

Personally I prefer the 2-7x32.

2x is more suited to airsoft than 3x. And easier on the eye when picking up targets. It's got a couple of meters more FOV at the lower end as well over the 3-9x even with the smaller objective lens.

Just make sure you have a 25mm mount system, If you don't then you can pick them up dirt cheap (uttings are expensive for mounts). Ebay is best for cheap ones.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-pcs-25mm-1-Inch-High-Profile-Ring-Scope-Weaver-Rail-Mount-20mm-Picatinny-RDFJ/253488125363?epid=28016506789&hash=item3b0511d5b3:rk:1:pf:0
 

Have a look at the Hawke vantage range if you want something that is budget friendly. They have a good reputation with the air rifle community for been good enough to use for target shooting.

the 2-7x32 can be had for about £60. Doesn't have the illuminated reticle but it does have a half mildot version.
https://www.uttings.co.uk/p121296-hawke-vantage-2-7x32-ao-rifle-scope/#.W9rT7jGYRog


If you want the illuminated reticle they retail at about £90 for the same sight.
https://www.uttings.co.uk/p120559-hawke-vantage-ir-2-7x32-ao-rifle-scope/#.W9rTsTGYRog

Only issue you might have with them is the length and weight.. But the performance should be well over what you expect.

Oh shit!!!!

Now you have to resist all temptation to drive the car with the lights off using it.

I've considered it a few times, But the list of mods for them is pretty extensive and not all apply to all models or gun builds. I will do one at some point, but it will be long and as detailed as I can make it. As such it's not something I can enter into without setting time aside to get into the meat of them.

The hop is probably the hardest part to get right. It's too easy to not understand what it actually does in addition to hopping. And when it's wrong you get a gun that will appear to have every problem under the sun. The symptoms can look like short airseal nozzles, mis-feeds, double feeds, total failure to feed, body pins falling out, Gearbox rattle.  Shimming an Aug barrel can cause all of the same problems as well... The unit and barrel has to move freely.

Aug hops are buggers to rebuild and get right.

Numerous issue can appear because of a badly built hop unit. It does a bit more in an AUG than just lift BB's. It also gives the spring tension that holds the body pin in.

Some things to look out for.

If the brass ring is visible through the 2 screw slots on the side of the unit it might mess up the rebuilding of the gun and mess up your air seal. The hop unit needs full travel on the slots. I always cut my bucking and put the brass ring in on the gearbox side of the C-clip to stop this happening. I don't think any of the videos online show this mod, but it helps rule out the ring and screws interfering with the hop movement. Others just put the ring right at the end of the hop unit making sure the screw slots are clear.

If the 2 screws are touching the inner barrel and stopping the hop unit moving freely they need backing off. Until the hop moves freely forwards and back in the mounting block. It should have 4-5mm of travel. And should spring fully back without resistance. Those screws do not secure anything they act like pins stopping the hop unit leaving the mount, They don't need to be fully tight to work. It's the spring back action that sets the body pin tightness!

The rear ring needs to be installed correctly and triple checked. It sets the airseal nozzle engagement distance from the gearbox. If it's not correctly seated you will get airleaks, and the BB's might not feed.

The C-clip needs to be installed so it's absolutely flush to the hop. If it's stuck up in any area it'll bind in the mount and stop the unit moving freely. You sometimes have to put a bit of compression onto the unit to get the clip to drop in snug. When it's right it's nice and tight usually, and holds itself in place.

You also need to check the bucking feed lips. Aug hops have a nasty habit of pinching them at the top. They also sometimes pinch the bucking at the back side of the hop window.





 

Looks more like slag/dross contamination rather than a vug/gas pocket. Or  if it's sintered metal it's a lack of heat and or flux.

The metal shows no signs of a decent bond at the break, Shows no signs of metal wetting. There are no stress marks round the break that would be expected with a standard break. No peeling of the surface, thinning surrounding the crack. And most importantly a stress break like this will never fit back together if the casting materials were sound due to the stretching effect at the crack point.

I would chance that your lump fits right back in place, and you can hardly see the crack line.

Materials defect, plain and simple.

If they fail to comply have a word with your mates and see if they know anyone on an engineering degree, That has a materials module. And if they do ask them to ask the materials department if  they can have a look at the images and give you a visual  analysis of the break.

 

Might be a bad batch of casting alloy.

Best bet in this instance would be to contact the manufacturer directly, Stating the store didn't want to deal with it at all. Name the store.

Give them the serial numbers and any serials on the slide.

And sent pictures of every angle, Every external defect on the break on both parts.  As close and as high a resolution as you can.

The more you show them the more chance you have of getting this resolved.

To my eye it looks like there is a vug/gas void on the broken piece (Right hand side in the image). That would be the key area to photograph in my mind.



 

Have a word with these guys. They can make just about anything in a safe format.

http://www.mandalastudios.co.uk/

I had a weekend where all 3 guns I took chrono'd within 5fps of the limit, and shot flawlessly. 2 AUGs 1 G3.

My ex gun tech shooting partner on the other hand.

Stripped the securing bolt on his king arms slr. (looks like we will have to get a new bolt and insert machined up).

Failed to chrono the sa80. (15fps over)

Had a cyma AKM lower disintegrate, Mag lug just fell off it at the chrono.

He ended up using the gun he only took to chrono. WE M14 EBR with HPA conversion.

To cap off his day he took a BB point blank in the cheek coming round a wall. So he went home looking like the elephant man.

Have a look at the plastic soldier company war spray range. They have a US tank green and it's lovely. I have an M4 sprayed up with it if you want to see it.

 

Whilst I like the look of this one, It's going to stop you been able to remove the inner barrel because you won't be able to use the strip button on the side.  The other 2 should work and leave the strip function alone.

You could always cut the rail down so you get the feature back again. As I think it looks the best of the 3.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/XPN3V8PER/bottom-rail-for-aug-foregrip-attachment-13-slots

 

If they did that super short one as a 3 slot then I think that would be the perfect mount. As a 2 slot most grips are going to be sat on it off centre.


This one is nice as well.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/F96QZD24P/lower-rail-for-aug-6-slots?optionId=63082723



Just found a 3 slot shorty as well. I might actually get one of those for my A1. Looks to be the perfect rail.

https://www.shapeways.com/product/LU48DGXN6/aug-bottom-picatinny-rail-3-slots?optionId=65356676