What have you made?

[HuttArmouries]

Here is a vid of the grenade launcher. This is from when I was still deciding on an operating pressure. so the shots are a little inconsitent. Its now running for about 9-10 shots at 300 psi quite safely with the ability to quickly crank it up for long range shots if necesarry. Runs off 12 gram co2 cartridges in the front section. Still needs prettying up a bit though. Grand total of around £100-120 spent (including 1 co2 rated tag shell which is most of the cost)

 

Edited July 27, 2021 by HuttArmouries

[Tackle]

1 hour ago, HuttArmouries said:

Here is a vid of the grenade launcher. This is from when I was still deciding on an operating pressure. so the shots are a little inconsitent. Its now running for about 9-10 shots at 300 psi quite safely with the ability to quickly crank it up for long range shots if necesarry. Runs off 12 gram co2 cartridges in the front section. Still needs prettying up a bit though. Grand total of around £100-120 spent (including 1 co2 rated tag shell which is most of the cost)

 

Very nice Bill, it goes with quite a "thwack", wonder what it would be like with some bean bag rounds lol 😈

[HuttArmouries]

2 minutes ago, Tackle said:

Very nice Bill, it goes with quite a "thwack", wonder what it would be like with some bean bag rounds lol 😈

Well I have shattered 2 practice shells by maxing out the psi  so Imagine that would be pretty evil XD

[Lozart]

2 hours ago, HuttArmouries said:

Here is a vid of the grenade launcher. This is from when I was still deciding on an operating pressure. so the shots are a little inconsitent. Its now running for about 9-10 shots at 300 psi quite safely with the ability to quickly crank it up for long range shots if necesarry. Runs off 12 gram co2 cartridges in the front section. Still needs prettying up a bit though. Grand total of around £100-120 spent (including 1 co2 rated tag shell which is most of the cost)

 

 

Are you having to charge it every shot?

[HuttArmouries]

1 hour ago, Lozart said:

 

Are you having to charge it every shot?

Just have to open the ball valve for about a second and that charges the shell. 

[Speedbird_666]

I see someone is flogging G&G Drop stock adapters for £25 a pop.

 

Decided to design my own for my son's gun (he wears a paintball mask).

 

Not quite as slick as their design, but an hour or so of CAD work gives me this.

 

 

Prototype is on the printer now.

[Lozart]

15 hours ago, HuttArmouries said:

Just have to open the ball valve for about a second and that charges the shell. 

 

Seems a bit of a faff, how do the Taginn made launchers do it?

[HuttArmouries]

2 hours ago, Lozart said:

 

Seems a bit of a faff, how do the Taginn made launchers do it?

I believe when you open the 203 ones it effectively recocks the valve and on the gp25 ones shoving the shell in resets it. Either way this launcher costs 1/5 the price of either of those so ill take having to turn a valve for a second. 

 

[Speedbird_666]

Job done. Perfect, tight fit first time (wasn't expecting that, hence the Red filament as I'm running low on black).

 

Will print a black one shortly now I know the tolerances and fitment work.

 

 

[Lozart]

2 hours ago, HuttArmouries said:

I believe when you open the 203 ones it effectively recocks the valve and on the gp25 ones shoving the shell in resets it. Either way this launcher costs 1/5 the price of either of those so ill take having to turn a valve for a second. 

 

 

Absolutely fair play! I just wondered if there was a way of replicating that function.

[HuttArmouries]

3 minutes ago, Lozart said:

 

Absolutely fair play! I just wondered if there was a way of replicating that function.

If I had a 3d printer. cnc machine and a lot of spare time then I could definately make it work but unfortunately I have none of those so Ill stick to screwing together premade parts XD. 

[mightyjebus]

in the continuing quest for a fog free day, I've made this. 2  20mm fans housed in a 3D printer enclosure. Slides onto the side of the glasses and blows air across the inside face of the lense. 3 speed settings controlled by the switch and all run off a usb power bank. First real trial will be this weekend.

[Speedbird_666]

28 minutes ago, mightyjebus said:

in the continuing quest for a fog free day, I've made this. 2  20mm fans housed in a 3D printer enclosure. Slides onto the side of the glasses and blows air across the inside face of the lense. 3 speed settings controlled by the switch and all run off a usb power bank. First real trial will be this weekend.

 

Now that is a cool (no pun) idea.

 

I didn't realise you could get blowers that small. I could potentially integrate those into the sides of my paintball goggles.

 

My only concern would be fan noise?

[Rogerborg]

[Guest Mr. No_Face]

21 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

Job done. Perfect, tight fit first time (wasn't expecting that, hence the Red filament as I'm running low on black).

 

Will print a black one shortly now I know the tolerances and fitment work.

 

 

 

The more I see this kind of stuff, the more I'm sold on the idea of getting a 3D printer. A few questions though.

- Do you model and prep the parts yourself?

- is the plastic sturdy or brittle?

-what kind of printer are you using and how much does it retail.

[mightyjebus]

2 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

My only concern would be fan noise?

surprising quiet compared to other goggle fans I've used in the past

[Speedbird_666]

1 hour ago, Mr. No_Face said:

 

The more I see this kind of stuff, the more I'm sold on the idea of getting a 3D printer. A few questions though.

- Do you model and prep the parts yourself?

- is the plastic sturdy or brittle?

-what kind of printer are you using and how much does it retail.

 

 To answer your questions:

 - Yes, I like to model the parts myself wherever possible, although you can find a fair bit of stuff on Thingiverse. I use Fusion 360 as my modelling software and Cura for slicing the model for print. If you want to design more 'organic' (such as your skull masks) I know people use software such as Z-brush and blender to produce the models, but I have no experience with these.

 

- That's a difficult question to answer, as there are several main types of printable plastic (PLA, PETG and ABS), and numerous sub-variations with additives and special properties. I'm using PLA+, which is less brittle than normal PLA, but at the cost of some mechanical strength. Normal PLA will catastrophically fail (i.e. snap or shear) , PLA+ is more likely to bend and stretch.

 

In the example of my drop-stock adapter, it's been printed in the least-optimal way for strength (the receiver extension for the buffer tube could potentially fail under enough force) due to the way that a printer lays down plastic layers on top of each other, but it was easiest to print it that way. In reality, the adapter feels more solid that the plastic G&G receiver it's attached to and there is zero flex, but time will tell.

 

 

I have an idea for the next version to make it a 2-piece design that means that the receiver stub will be printed in a different orientation to the rest of the adapter.

 

Current design print layer direction vs 2-piece design:

 

 - I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 bought directly from the Creality UK warehouse. It was on sale for £168 with free postage, but I think the price is back up to around £200 now. I'm running it pretty much stock with no upgrades other than a quieter fan for the PSU and yellow bed springs. I plan to add BLtouch (self leveling sensor) and some new bowden tubing at some point soon though.

[PopRocket123]

2 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

 To answer your questions:

 - Yes, I like to model the parts myself wherever possible, although you can find a fair bit of stuff on Thingiverse. I use Fusion 360 as my modelling software and Cura for slicing the model for print. If you want to design more 'organic' (such as your skull masks) I know people use software such as Z-brush and blender to produce the models, but I have no experience with these.

 

- That's a difficult question to answer, as there are several main types of printable plastic (PLA, PETG and ABS), and numerous sub-variations with additives and special properties. I'm using PLA+, which is less brittle than normal PLA, but at the cost of some mechanical strength. Normal PLA will catastrophically fail (i.e. snap or shear) , PLA+ is more likely to bend and stretch.

 

In the example of my drop-stock adapter, it's been printed in the least-optimal way for strength (the receiver extension for the buffer tube could potentially fail under enough force) due to the way that a printer lays down plastic layers on top of each other, but it was easiest to print it that way. In reality, the adapter feels more solid that the plastic G&G receiver it's attached to and there is zero flex, but time will tell.

 

 

I have an idea for the next version to make it a 2-piece design that means that the receiver stub will be printed in a different orientation to the rest of the adapter.

 

Current design print layer direction vs 2-piece design:

 

 - I'm using a Creality Ender 3 V2 bought directly from the Creality UK warehouse. It was on sale for £168 with free postage, but I think the price is back up to around £200 now. I'm running it pretty much stock with no upgrades other than a quieter fan for the PSU and yellow bed springs. I plan to add BLtouch (self leveling sensor) and some new bowden tubing at some point soon though.

I use real steel buffer tubes threaded into my printed components instead of AEG buffer tubes. That way you can print it all flat and not have to worry about that fracture point. It does make things a little bulkier though. 

[Speedbird_666]

1 hour ago, PopRocket123 said:

I use real steel buffer tubes threaded into my printed components instead of AEG buffer tubes. That way you can print it all flat and not have to worry about that fracture point. It does make things a little bulkier though. 

 

That's a really good idea!

 

Do you print the threading or tap it after printing?

 

What thread is the buffer tube? 

[PopRocket123]

39 minutes ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

That's a really good idea!

 

Do you print the threading or tap it after printing?

 

What thread is the buffer tube? 

It's all printed. I can't remember the thread exactly, I think it's something like 13/16th of an inch but you can find it online. You can get real steel buffer tubes for about a tenner off of AliExpress, cheapest place I found. 

 

When you draw it up you need to scale the threads up ever so slightly so that they don't bind up

[Spartan09]

11 hours ago, mightyjebus said:

in the continuing quest for a fog free day, I've made this. 2  20mm fans housed in a 3D printer enclosure. Slides onto the side of the glasses and blows air across the inside face of the lense. 3 speed settings controlled by the switch and all run off a usb power bank. First real trial will be this weekend.

looks pretty good.  

where did you source the fans from?  i was thinking of trying to get something rigged up to get air circulating through my helmet, especially in CQB arenas, to minimise fogging as well as keep my head and face cool

[mightyjebus]

55 minutes ago, Spartan09 said:

where did you source the fans from? 

aliexpress I think. I used this part for the speeds and USB connection.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/ELUTENG-Ventilator-Computer-Compatible-Raspberry/dp/B07F1NV9T7/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=20mm+usb+fan&qid=1627598440&sr=8-4

 

[HuttArmouries]

work in progress aug hbar. Just finished the barrel bar blackening it. going to remake the bipod legs to look right and make some extended mags for it. Also got another boneyard aug coming to steal the scope off of.

 

[PopRocket123]

Not exactly airsoft related but doing this little project I think has given me the confidence I need to try some of the Airsoft sewing projects I've put off. It helped that I've finally found a sewing machine that doesn't fill me with frustration and hate. 

[Druid799]

8 hours ago, PopRocket123 said:

Not exactly airsoft related but doing this little project I think has given me the confidence I need to try some of the Airsoft sewing projects I've put off. It helped that I've finally found a sewing machine that doesn't fill me with frustration and hate. 

I do all my sewing with this 134yr old antique .