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What have you just 3d printed (for airsoft)


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18 minutes ago, MrTea said:

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On an unrelated note; does anyone think they can 3D print these shells for the shell ejecting Kar98K? Link to the file.

I can give it a go on my printer but I think resin would be to brittle and crack. 

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27 minutes ago, GenuineGerman said:

I can give it a go on my printer but I think resin would be to brittle and crack. 


The guy who made them has a Reddit post which is where I found he actually published the file. Given they're probably relatively cheap to print, i'd assume they're one time use thing so you don't need to scavenge them back up so it won't matter if they're super fragile. As long as they work once, they're good. IIRC he's printing them in ABS.

Here's a link to his thread.

Edited by MrTea
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22 minutes ago, MrTea said:


The guy who made them has a Reddit post which is where I found he actually published the file. Given they're probably relatively cheap to print, i'd assume they're one time use thing so you don't need to scavenge them back up so it won't matter if they're super fragile. As long as they work once, they're good. IIRC he's printing them in ABS.

Here's a link to his thread.

No worries will give it a go this weekend and see what results I get 

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11 minutes ago, GenuineGerman said:

No worries will give it a go this weekend and see what results I get 


Nice one, ty. I'm kind of praying it works because the metal shells are cheap metal, damage easily but are expensive :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Question for the big brains, has anyone made something like the aps uar? Like I have a spare v3 gearbox, I could cobble together a hop and barrel easily enough, any though on what 3d printed things I could use them on?

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Another day, another project.

After getting messed around by JK Army I ended up buying a L85A3 MLOK rail directly from Angry Gun. This is getting fitted to a Ares L85A3 and obviously isn't a direct fit. I was going to chop up the Ares to make it work but since I have 3D printers, it seemed rude not to knock something up.

Below is the 3D model.

image.thumb.png.42611e83b1bd8c1d9fc0b5b34457d677.png

The V1 prototype is on the bottom and the original part on the top. V2 is in the printer now as I had to make some adjustments. Once I'm happy with the shape I'll start modding the 3D model to fit the Angry Gun rail.

image.thumb.jpeg.aa4962f43611edbbef3d261bbee24e5c.jpeg

I also printed a very thin barrel band so that the Angry Gun gas block could be used.

image.thumb.jpeg.1e36e729616983b3d572c7fcd9286c2f.jpeg

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A couple of other things I've been working on. I got the EMG speedloader but battery size is limited so I knocked up a base that allows for a larger battery and somewhere to keep all the adapters otherwise I'll lose them in about 5 minutes.

image.thumb.jpeg.5209e0495cd0249cd934efa614bcd454.jpeg

image.thumb.jpeg.a9fb662581ab72b611772a5c2accc474.jpeg

 

I also bought the WELL Rattler and didn't fancy using the PEQ box for the battery so I knocked up a longer rattler style handguard and added a 50mm barrel extension to allow for a saddlebag lipo to be contained inside the handguard. Original handguard is shown to show the size difference. image.thumb.jpeg.910a4329e4f7b522b2bc8009ab3c2e67.jpeg

 

Edited by mightyjebus
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This is actually for an air rifle but I'm really happy with how it's coming out. It's for the Reximex Pretensis and is based on the KRG Whiskey 3 chassis. Not bad for 3 days work. Now onto the boring stuff. Screw fittings etc.

Pretensis Whiskey Chassis v4b.jpg

Pretensis Whiskey Chassis v4.jpg

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2 hours ago, ButcherBill said:

Will 3D polymer stuff be strong enough for this?

I print in carbon fibre reinforced ABS which is plenty strong. You just have to think about the direction of the layers when you're working out print orientation. And in this case I'm going to need to split it to fit in the print bed. So I'm going to split it at 45° angles in order to maximise surface area when I stick it together

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On 03/10/2024 at 00:47, PopRocket123 said:

I print in carbon fibre reinforced ABS which is plenty strong. You just have to think about the direction of the layers when you're working out print orientation. And in this case I'm going to need to split it to fit in the print bed. So I'm going to split it at 45° angles in order to maximise surface area when I stick it together

 

How stiff if that material? I've been slowly working on a benchrest stock design for my HFT500 (quoted £750 to get a custom one done) and was looking at using PPS-CF - but at £115 a roll it ain't cheap. I need to minimise flex otherwise there could be POI-shift issues.

 

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17 hours ago, Speedbird_666 said:

 

How stiff if that material? I've been slowly working on a benchrest stock design for my HFT500 (quoted £750 to get a custom one done) and was looking at using PPS-CF - but at £115 a roll it ain't cheap. I need to minimise flex otherwise there could be POI-shift issues.

 

I haven't printed anything this big before so we'll see how it comes out. I'm not expecting it to be on par with some of those custom stocks out there but it's only for a fairly cheap Reximex Pretensis so I doubt it's got good enough performance to see much difference. It'd be interesting to experiment to see if I can come up with something solid enough to be good for that

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On 02/10/2024 at 20:36, mightyjebus said:

A couple of other things I've been working on. I got the EMG speedloader but battery size is limited so I knocked up a base that allows for a larger battery and somewhere to keep all the adapters otherwise I'll lose them in about 5 minutes.

 

First thing I though when I saw these an the tiny battery space was I wonder how long before someone kocks up a printed extension.  Nice one.  Get em up for sale, make yourself a few quid. lol

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This is still work in progress but I’ve designed a print in place foldable stock adaptor for my TAC41 LS. I still have to improve the lock in place as it is currently too easy to fold the stock accidentally.

 

Any suggestion for a good locking mechanism? Currently it is done with small protrusion that locks into a little groove.

IMG_5510.thumb.jpeg.9059e0b759754e7ada7a19cd233e2949.jpegIMG_5511.thumb.jpeg.b75097b83cb4d63b3983855097d4e3ee.jpegIMG_5513.thumb.jpeg.61c89d90157a247359364dd68076317a.jpegIMG_5514.thumb.jpeg.4346dcdeb4cc175ce2f8184da2d7e53c.jpeg

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16 hours ago, ButcherBill said:

Why not design in a locking machanism like the Para Fal has?

I had to google that stock 😉 

 

I was thinking of using a spring and a bolt to lock it in place but I am trying not to over-engineer it if possible. I will try with a 'latch' that snaps into place but that you can easily unhook (but still fixed enough not to get unlatched. 

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3 minutes ago, ParHunter said:

I was thinking of using a spring and a bolt to lock it in place but I am trying not to over-engineer it if possible. I will try with a 'latch' that snaps into place but that you can easily unhook (but still fixed enough not to get unlatched. 

100% my point

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/10/2024 at 20:00, Jez_Armstrong said:

No one made a B&T sliding stock for a K that was an AEG without spending £155 on the Bow version and cutting it to make fit, so I made my own 

 

1000041515 (1).jpg

Do you have more pics of this ? With stock extended 

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