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What have you just 3d printed (for airsoft)

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Rather then just spam up the "what have you just bought" thread, figured i would start this thread insted

 

so after 3d printing some LRB stuff for my VSR

 

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And making some silencer foam spacers

 

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i decided to have a go at an end cap for my L96 (left is the 3d printed one, right is the original one)

 

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3B889B25-07C6-4ECF-86B9-A33FC7B8F3C4_zps

 

Which then lead me to wonder if i could make a flash hider, using the PDI one for inspiration

 

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from left to right

1) original first try, realised i had missed the thinning on the top, and part of the under side

2) unfinished print, realised i had forgot the hole in the middle

3) included the hold, but there was a the top dimension wrong

4) finished print that i have not broken out of the support matterial, had another idea

5) Finished print, this one i like, easier simpler to make etc, but the cut outs do go quite high

6) finished print, the barrel hole is intentionally off set by 2mm to try and see if this would work as a LRB modded flash hider

 

more to follow B)

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buzzzz buzzzz buzzzz - busy little bee has beeeeeen busy

 

clever stuff limited only by your own imagination - custom bespoke parts no problem for you

how long does say a flash hider take to print and what are the "3d ink" costs ??

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On average a flash hider above takes 3hours, but it dose depend on complexity etc

 

My printer uses 1.75mm filement at £13.35 for a 1kg roll (off eBay, free delivery), no idea how much length wise that is, but I have not used a roll yet, there is probably enough for 1 more print left on the roll

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Very nice.

A spool of filament lasts very very long, because what we print for airsoft are usually only small parts.

What materials do you use? I found PLA is much easier to print, and stronger than ABS, because it's less rigid. I haven't tried others, like nylon.

 

I have tried LRB but it didn't work for me. But I tried it in a low fps, short barrel boltie, maybe that's why.

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Mainly have done spacers/shims to keep things secure on rails, done some risers too. I find the black finish of things too shiny on a lot of the filament's so I tend to give it a light sheen of plastidip from a can and that not only dulls it down but the rubber texture keeps it from moving and making noise.

Haven't got round to it yet but have the drawing for an adaptor for my DD RIS on my L85 ready to print off sometime.

 

Also on the "to do" list is some Nylon sling points to keep things a bit quieter than the current metal ones. Going to reinforce them with some steel rod also but should be a lot more silent.

Will get some pics when I remember.

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Very nice.

A spool of filament lasts very very long, because what we print for airsoft are usually only small parts.

What materials do you use? I found PLA is much easier to print, and stronger than ABS, because it's less rigid. I haven't tried others, like nylon.

 

I have tried LRB but it didn't work for me. But I tried it in a low fps, short barrel boltie, maybe that's why.

 

i am only printing in PLA atm, its what my printer came with and i kinda bought a fair few rolls lol

 

i would like to get a heated bed though and try other materials.

 

 

Mainly have done spacers/shims to keep things secure on rails, done some risers too. I find the black finish of things too shiny on a lot of the filament's so I tend to give it a light sheen of plastidip from a can and that not only dulls it down but the rubber texture keeps it from moving and making noise.

Haven't got round to it yet but have the drawing for an adaptor for my DD RIS on my L85 ready to print off sometime.

 

Also on the "to do" list is some Nylon sling points to keep things a bit quieter than the current metal ones. Going to reinforce them with some steel rod also but should be a lot more silent.

Will get some pics when I remember.

 

never heard of plastidip before ... looks interesting B)

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Plastidip is widley used in the car moding scene. Great product tbh.

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new stuff's

 

1D3EB3B3-3DE2-457D-B017-93E2E00E3AAC_zps

 

Mobius action camera mount (needs painting), and the Rocinante B)

 

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this is very special (well i think so!) its a aluminium 3d printed nozzle for a KWC mini uzi (AKA swiss arms protector) .... why is is special?? ... it drops the FPS to sub 350FPS with 0.2's!!!

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Is that a white red dwarf in the back I spy??

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Plastidip is widley used in the car moding scene. Great product tbh.

I use plastidip for waterproofing my electronic throttle unit in my rc cars & boats plus the servos for steering etc

 

In airsoft, about the only thing you could use it for is the soldered contacts on the trigger units & solder joints of battery connectors before heatshrink is applied but if your that worried about water getting in, insulation tape around the seems of gearbox

 

With the deans connector, I put bigger heatshrink over the connector & solder joints (obviously each solder joints has heatshrink) to reduce water getting in

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Is that a white red dwarf in the back I spy??

 

its the Rocinante from syfy's the Expanse, been reading the books, really really like it

 

 

I guess this means the tv show might be worth picking up, but 2017 for season 2, syfy be mad.

 

yeah i know it sucks, but they did start on season 2 in anticipation, as they dont have a huge budget and the special effects do take a long time.

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AK12 Stock, front sight and flash hider

 

Nice. I'm in the process of modding a plastic AK12 stock with a 3d printed hinge.

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A mate of mine spent a number of hours using a computer program to design a spacer for his E&L AK as he says the magwell on these can be a problem

 

He says he's made/making a PDF for other people with the same rifles so they can get one 3d printed. I think it's costing him about £6 in total to have it done

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I use plastidip for waterproofing my electronic throttle unit in my rc cars & boats plus the servos for steering etc

In airsoft, about the only thing you could use it for is the soldered contacts on the trigger units & solder joints of battery connectors before heatshrink is applied but if your that worried about water getting in, insulation tape around the seems of gearbox

With the deans connector, I put bigger heatshrink over the connector & solder joints (obviously each solder joints has heatshrink) to reduce water getting in

Is uswd alot to coat grills and alloys, like a more durable spraypaint. Has a large range of colors available.

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what products are you using to print with? Jebus' stuff looks great, but not printed, or have you added a finishing step?

Everything is printed just in different materials. I use shapeways to print the parts and design the stuff using Sketchup with a .stl plugin.

The silencer was 2 end parts made to fit inside a aluminum pipe. this is much cheaper than printing the whole thing and it's more durable.

 

I usually use the plain white for prototypes as it's the cheapest material and shapeways are now printing in aluminum but it's expensive at the moment. My original ideas was to do the designs in 3d, have a master printed then create a mould and cast the parts in aluminum. I still need to do the last part when I get time.

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More me having a lazy thumbs when loading, wheres my friend has a pump action speed loader which has a M4 magwell

 

I agree MP5 mags look weird in them

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G&P make a UZI mag well adapter. If you are dead set on a MP5 adapter I'm sure one could be knocked up quite easily.

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More me having a lazy thumbs when loading, wheres my friend has a pump action speed loader which has a M4 magwell

 

I agree MP5 mags look weird in them

My bad I thought you wanted it to use in an M4 not a speedloader.

There are a few people on here who should be able to help you out.

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Cheers I'll take a look. I can't imagine it being that difficult but I have never tried and 3D printable drawings before. I do have access to autocad at work but its a rather basic package

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