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When you ask a question please do so using red writing that way, it's easy for people scrolling down to find a question.

 

When you answer a question, please quote (this will make sure the person gets a notification and they can click on it to open your answer straight away and it also lets people answer questions from a while ago if there have been new questions since then) the question and reply in blue writing so we know it's an answer.

 

If you feel a question simply cannot be answered in one brief post, or is open for a lot of debate, create a topic to discuss it, and link the topic in your answer so everyone can find it.

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  • Supporters
Posted
Just now, M_P said:

If you mean on the thinner part of the nozzle then no, if you mean two either side of it on the flat part of the front of the bolt that don't go all the way through then they're to help remove it 

 

Chuck a photo up if you can ?

 

the pair on the outside of the nozzle to help remove it, they go all the way through

  • Supporters
Posted
5 minutes ago, Adolf Hamster said:

 

the pair on the outside of the nozzle to help remove it, they go all the way through

Yeah that's not normal, would explain a significant shooting problem as so much of the air would be escaping out of there, rather than through the tip and into the hop/barrel

Guest PT247
Posted
1 hour ago, Adolf Hamster said:

should the front of a vsr10 bolt have a pair of vent holes besides the hole through the nozzle?

 

seems to me it shouldnt, and the woeful lack of firing seems to agree

Where are the holes? on the side of the cylinder or the face of the nozzle?

_20180612_160028.JPG

_20180612_160007.JPG

  • Supporters
Posted

face of the nozzle, like the one in your second pic, except drilled all the way through.

 

plugged them with glue and it now works perfectly, or at least until the glue gets blown out.

 

now to get the f2000 working.......

Posted

Can anyone recommend a detailed SAFETY orientated video for wiring Deans connectors to Lipos/AEG's please and thankyou.

  • Supporters
Posted

@Duff, just cut 1 wire at a time, solder that on, heatshrink over it, and they do the same with the next one.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Moderators
Posted

Im not convinced, I have revision locust fan and thermal lens and it’s still not 100% clear and I wipe with various sprays as well, still get droplets to annoy

 

i sometimes have better results with my ESSv12s :)

Posted

Are there any other pins I need to remove to split the reciever? It doesn't seem to want to budge and don't wanna force it incase I break it.

 

20180625_111027.jpg

  • Moderators
Posted

my ICS only has 1, then it swings open, similar to what you have in pic / trying to do

 

maybe a gentle tap as mine are sometimes 'stiff'  (:rolleyes:) i think due to where the gears stop?

  • Supporters
Posted
13 minutes ago, Duff said:

Are there any other pins I need to remove to split the reciever? It doesn't seem to want to budge and don't wanna force it incase I break it.

 

20180625_111027.jpg

 

The front receiver pin (just below the threaded portion at the front. Once that's out, pull the charging handle back and then slide the upper forwards while you hold the charging handle.

  • Moderators
Posted
On 25/06/2018 at 11:23, Lozart said:

 

The front receiver pin (just below the threaded portion at the front. Once that's out, pull the charging handle back and then slide the upper forwards while you hold the charging handle.

 

Did it work @Duff ???

Posted
Just now, djben9 said:

 

Did it work @Duff ???

 

Yeah I got it off, now I have another issue. Motor isn't cycling/firing, locked in position. Not sure what to do next, tried full auto but nothing.

  • Moderators
Posted

could be a simple connection issue / damaged cable if no power....other than that my (limited) knowledge has gone now,!!

 

my ASG would look in semi occasionally and it was just a flip to FA and back

  • Supporters
Posted
32 minutes ago, Duff said:

 

Yeah I got it off, now I have another issue. Motor isn't cycling/firing, locked in position. Not sure what to do next, tried full auto but nothing.

Arl lock up.

Remove motor and grip then using a pair of needle nose pliers pull ARL down should hear the gears release.

Posted
6 minutes ago, ImTriggerHappy said:

Arl lock up.

Remove motor and grip then using a pair of needle nose pliers pull ARL down should hear the gears release.

 

I just gave it a whack and a wiggle and it's cycling fine again. :D

 

Posted

Can someone tell me if the little hook and curve catches allow you to snap your mags together so you can flip and reload quick? If not then what the fluqq are they for?

 

JG080-MAG_LRG.jpg

Products2151-1200x800--1668260754.jpg

Posted
1 hour ago, Duff said:

Can someone tell me if the little hook and curve catches allow you to snap your mags together so you can flip and reload quick? If not then what the fluqq are they for?

 

JG080-MAG_LRG.jpg

Products2151-1200x800--1668260754.jpg

 

Yea that’s what they’re for, they go side by side so you don’t even have to flip it. 

Posted

Alright lads, I’m after a bit advice. It’s a pretty trivial question so didn’t want to waste a new thread on it.

 

Is going for Li-Po straight out the gate a bad idea?

 

Once I get on the UKARA database, I’ll hopefully be getting my first AEG/RIF, and it seems 7.4 Li-Po are a far better choice than 8.6’s? I’ve read up balance chargers, storage, fire-proof charging bags, discharge alarms etc etc etc, but is there any reason you WOULDN’T recommend them for a newbie? 

 

The AEG I want comes fitted with Tamiya connectors, but swapping to Deans seems a pretty easy job. 

  • Supporters
Posted
19 minutes ago, Nodnol said:

Alright lads, I’m after a bit advice. It’s a pretty trivial question so didn’t want to waste a new thread on it.

 

Is going for Li-Po straight out the gate a bad idea?

 

Once I get on the UKARA database, I’ll hopefully be getting my first AEG/RIF, and it seems 7.4 Li-Po are a far better choice than 8.6’s? I’ve read up balance chargers, storage, fire-proof charging bags, discharge alarms etc etc etc, but is there any reason you WOULDN’T recommend them for a newbie? 

 

The AEG I want comes fitted with Tamiya connectors, but swapping to Deans seems a pretty easy job. 

I probably wouldn't bother with Nimh batteries in anything these days, a 7.4 lipo will be fine in pretty much whatever- do the deans switch too as Duff said, only takes a couple of mins or so

Posted

 

On 01/07/2018 at 15:19, M_P said:

I probably wouldn't bother with Nimh batteries in anything these days, a 7.4 lipo will be fine in pretty much whatever- do the deans switch too as Duff said, only takes a couple of mins or so

 

Cheers guys. I thought as much, but it’s very easy to get carried away and lose sight of the fact that I’m just starting out. I’m this instance though, it seems a no-brainer.

Posted

 

Yeah there hasn’t been a question I’ve had I’ve not been able to find an answer to, especially since browsing here. YouTube has been great too.

 

The biggest challenge I’m facing is reigning in my own impatience and magpie-like love of shiny things. I think I’ve got an entire kit list sorted out in my head, but I’m not going to get carried away. Get on UKARA, get my first RIF, then go from there. No point thinking about accessories,  chest plates etc until I’ve developed a “style”, preferences and how I want to use my AEG lmao.

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