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I was planning on but decided not to. The reason I was thinking about doing it was because the leather ends made doing anything fiddly very hard The stitching that came apart was actually along the side on the lower thumb from the wrist to the knuckle

I had the old Warrior Firestorm gloves and they were decent but I found the leather fingers mean doing anything near fiddly was hard and they seemed to require very long and skinny fingers to fit entirely correctly. Eventually the side stitching on one of the gloves gave out and I decided to switch the Mechanix. However, that was a while ago so will be interested to see how they've improved them

Whoever told you Flash Mags reduce the noise is talking utter rubbish, if anything they're worse. If you buy Lonex (or ASG rebranded) they will give about 2 years service until the ratchet spring fails. But then a replacement spring is a few pence to replace. If you however buy the cheap ones, you'll get a few months tops before the whole mechanism collapses, which is virtually irreparable. Had a few of each for a Dytac for woodland games, the Lonex were drastically better.

I own a TM one. Allow me to go off on one here: It's big. Really big. Pistol's quite large too (ba-dum-tiss). Only realy way to holster it is with a Viper belt mounted adjustable holster. it's as big as a desert eagle. If you have small hands, forget it. If you want a pistol that is 'fast' forget it. If you want to be able to transition to it quickly, forget it. (Admittedly I do alright with mine, but I've used it almost every skirmish for the last 3 and a half years, often as a primary.) If you have the suppressor attached whilst it's in the holster (and you'll want to) your draw length is from grabbing the pistol at your hip, the pistol isn't free and usable until you have lifted the pistol grip up to your armpit. Don't think you can get around this with a leg holster, then you'll never be able to kneel down again. There are a lot of negatives with this pistol. BUT. Jesus christ. If you want a pistol that you can rely on, buy one. and only one. You will only ever need one. This has to be the most robust anything ever. Mine had taken a beating over the years. Then I dropped it. Fell out of my holster. Lost. Gone. My favourite RIF lost. not to mention it was £200 worth of pistol. This happened in November 2012. Every game I played I looked around for it. Then. Mid August. Peeking out from under some leaves. NO. FREAKING. WAY. 9 bastard months. The coldest winter for years, plus all the usual yorkshire countryside weather. Plus the heat from summer. My MK23 had been out in it all. I would guess temperatures ranged from -5 to about 20 degrees over those months. I picked it up. looked over it and pulled the trigger. 'thumf'. sheeeiiiiiiit It still worked. Hadn't let out ANY guess. Aimed at a target 'thumf' again, straight as a die. better check it over before I do any damage to it. Popped the mag out, took out the takedown lever and slid the slide off. yup, frame looks fine. Check the upper. a slug, A mother fucking slug. right in the mechanism. and it wouldn't let me down. The pistol is awesome. It outranges most peoples AEGs all day erryday. It cannot be heard outside of 10m and is impossible to locate the exact direction of the shooting within hearing range. It's had more kills on its own that the entire rest of my arsenal, I'm convinced of it. Some days I'll take out £800 worth up Laylaxed up VSR and do better with the MK23. If I'm unsure about what to take to a game, I know I'll still have a good time if the MK23 is coming with me. oh, and just for balance, I DO also have the ASG one (same as KJ etcetcetc) and it's wank. Just utter crap. Yeah, I know what other people say about theirs, so maybe that shows how highly I hold this pistol. (and how terrified other players at my site are of it) and to clear up some misinformation in this thread so far: the TM MK23 and mags DO take Greengas, it will also take duster, 134a, 144a, red gas AND Guarder Black gas. I would imagine it handles propane fine, but I am NEVER putting that stink through my lovely pistol. Special forces don't use it 'a lot' it is too big and too heavy for a sidearm. and to agree with some other sentiments from the thread: If you use one, you cannot be cooler. They are stupid accurate. They are THE BEST sniper sidearm They are THE BEST woodland sidearm, regardless of playstyle They are (playstyle/game dependednt) one of the best CQB sidearms. BUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYITBUYIT

If you want something fun, but not really skirmishable, try a Dan Wesson revolver. They're CO2 powered and chamber 6 shells which each take a single bb in the front, pretty much functions like the real thing. Nice build quality, good weight, feels solid as anything and looks very cool. Unfortunately don't own one myself but had a go at shooting downrange with the 4" version a couple weeks back with some metal bb's. From what I remember although you can get low power shells to make it useable on the field (standard ones shoot very hot) they don't use 6mm rounds, making sourcing plastic ammunition quite difficult. Edit: On the other hand though I may be completely wrong, unless wolf armouries are incorrect they do fire 6mm. http://www.wolfarmouries.co.uk/airsoft/bb/product.asp?page=product&id=17351

I got shot by two people at point blank with CO2 pistols into a neoprene mask (I burst through a door at Tac House: Spartan and they were aiming at head height, which I thought was a bit moody...). Both hits got me side by side on the top lip - more surprise than anything, but there was a red mark. I think you'd have to be quite close for a sniper BB to actually bruise through neoprene. Teeth wise, I think it may just be possible for a BB to get through the holes over the mouth, or not even penetrate but push the neoprene against teeth with just enough BB contact through the hole to cause a shattered tooth - but really it'd be a one in ten million or more coincidence. But yeah, mesh is the way forward for complete peace of mind. It's not sweaty to wear either...

That was my thinking, if the insurance wanted face protection I don't see why the site wouldn't just say mesh lowers- that way there's a much reduced chance of anything severe.

I know but a requirement for a neoprene mask is ridiculous, it's hardly going to protect anything

I think about 710FPS, Liam - just for range experiments. It will also be interesting to see how well the air seal and barrel width guestimates hold up at much higher pressure. The steel barrel base is an SVD only part - it replaces the aluminium stock part to allow more points of contact with the internal barrel for stability, but also it's stiffer and heavier so it ought to be more difficult for the spring shock to move. TBH, I doubt it can do anything noticeable that LX tape around the inner barrel can't, but for €16 it's worth a punt. I think I'll be going with a new quad stack 1000rnd AK mag again. My old one died at Skirmish - the lip snapped clean off as it was locking dboys... what can you say!?! Nobody else makes 'em though.

What FPS will an M200 give you? Also, what steel barrel? Nice, sounds like it's shooting really well. Makes me want to fix mine, but I've kinda given up on it. Been sat completely disassembled since before Christmas. Needs a new bolt housing before I can do anything with it at all.

Just be careful if you wrap the hop rubber in PTFE tape. 1. use silicone grease on the outside once wrapped (or CT-2 Teflon(PTFE) Silicone grease for best results*) 2. if you have to press very hard to make the barrel with rubber fitted slide into the hop unit, you risk the rubber jamming and the barrel pushing through inside it, which can damage the rubber. Ideally the barrel would have been cleaned with a spotless soft cloth using soapy water, rinsed thoroughly with water, air dried, and finally cleaned again with an alcohol swab, to remove every last trace of oil, grease, or muck, both inside and where the rubber fits outside as well. Once the alcohol has evaporated, using freshly washed hands, when you carefully fit a new rubber onto the barrel, there will be the maximum amount of friction between the two, which means that when it comes to wrapping the PTFE tape around the rubber, you will be able to use a fraction more (which when greased with CT-2 will still fit), resulting in the tightest air seal and most stable breach-end. In practice, the only area that you need to keep relatively grease free is the bump inside the rubber and a good slap of grease will get you past a multitude of sins. You can always give the barrel and hop a clean from inside with alcohol swabs later. AEG accuracy itself is always going to be more at the mercy of air movement than almost anything you can do anything about, but also, due to the way that AEG's are usually fired in skirmish, body movement. Are you sufficiently well practiced that, while moving under fire, you can bring your AEG up from a muzzle down carry position to your shoulder in a fluid movement which ends simultaneously with your dominant eye aiming over iron sights to a man sized target 35m away and with a trigger pull which puts a hit on that man sized target first time and pretty much every time (ie with no need to correct your aim before pulling the trigger, and no need to correct for wind unless conditions are blustery)? If you can then there may be something to be gained by homemade improvements, but first try an H-nub, a sticky hop rubber combined with heavier BB's, and a TBB. I would suggest that, unless your inner barrel is so loose that you can hear or see it wobble, there is so little to be potentially gained by fucking about with tape that dismantling your gun just to do it is asking for trouble. In some ways AEG's are pretty simple mechanisms, but the trouble is that the parts are manufactured within varying degrees of tolerance, which means that any particular gun which works, as it is, can go back together seemingly just as it was and not work, apparently for no earthly reason. Naturally you can just re-dismantle it and re-reassemble and often that will do the trick, but trust me, the more you fuck with it, the more likely it is that you will fuck something up... *CT-2 is brilliant grease for every part of any airsoft gun - it is without question the way forward.

Pff.. er.. not really thought about it. Rarely get the time to write up sales threads and with a big stack of stuff already waiting to go I tend to keep AR parts which might be useful for future builds. Not a rare component or anything, WGC have the G&P versions and hk-parts + scopeandlaser have the King Arms in stock.

Where will you get semi auto or auto weapons in the UK? All you can own in semi-auto is 22 rimfire. You can't own anything in 9mm as that is classed as a pistol round and the ammo is banned. You can own an AR but only single shot working off a manual bolt with no way of converting to semi-auto- so essentially a bolt action rifle based on an AR receiver. You could get hold of the 'Cadet' version of the SA80. They are single shot working off a manual bolt.

>what additional costs? food, transport, bbs, rentals >Are there any local shops? yup. think http://www.airsoftmap.net/ have some. if not its back to http://map.google.com >When I must change this spring? technically, before it enters the UK or you can be charged with owning an illegal weapon. but in reality most guns entering the UK are hot. but you will of course have to change it before you go to a game or you wont be allowed to play. >What are the costs of rent? usually around £20 >Looks like I need to buy a case of ammunition or when renting a gun got,? when you rent you usually get a full hicap (around 300bbs) for free >When are the meetings? >Sorry for so many questions but in my country you are buying a gun you go into the woods and play anything more on the law in the UK, I need to get acquainted you can not do that here or you will get arrested or shot by police. each airsoft site have information on when their games are on their hompages (that you find thru previously posted links) >You can only legally * send it here if you paint at least half (51%) are in a bright color (red or green, for example poison. blue is not legal, it is not white or dark green). However, it is not >necessary to register. >I do not quite understand what's going on easy version: before sending the gun here, you will have to spraypaint more than half of it in a bright colour (red for example) so it looks like a toy.

Hi if I have to pay for entrance? yes. generally £20-40 per game, plus expenses what additional costs? Are there any local shops? When I must change this spring? if do not have my weapon here i can rent for play ? yes. Almost all if not all sites will rent. What are the costs of rent? Looks like I need to buy a case of ammunition or when renting a gun got,? When are the meetings? Sorry for so many questions but in my country you are buying a gun you go into the woods and play anything more on the law in the UK, I need to get acquainted I have a G36C JG608 in my country (Poland), if I send this gun here I have registered the gun, or not? You can only legally * send it here if you paint at least half (51%) are in a bright color (red or green, for example poison. blue is not legal, it is not white or dark green). However, it is not necessary to register. I do not quite understand what's going on

How its work UKARA ? takes 3 months of playing in the UK on registered sites. http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/forum/12-uk-law/ where i can find some map where we play in Airsoft ? http://www.airsoftmap.net/ if I have to pay for entrance? yes. generally £20-40 per game, plus expenses. what i must do to join Airsoft in UK ? nothing, just attend skirmishes if do not have my weapon here i can rent for play ? yes. Almost all if not all sites will rent. i have G36C JG608 in my country (Poland) if i send this Gun here i must registered this gun or not ? you can only legally* send it here if you paint at least half (51%) of it in a bright colour (red or poison green for example. blue is not legal, nor is white or dark green). no registration is needed however. i know i didn't ask this question (thank you two_zero!!), but is there anything else i should consider? yes there is! our airsoft guns are regulated by law to 1j power output*, meaning you most likely will have to install an m100 or m90 spring. *if full auto. if not it's generally regulated by site rules, sometimes allowing slight higher power output.

Sorry for late reply, didn't see this until yesterday. Here are some pics of the join, top down: My mate gave me these with the RAS as well: Anything significant about them aside from the crushed section of the barrel nut?

The Mk12 uses a heavier 5.56 round than the standard M16s though, so it will likely have higher penetration. It actually helps back up the fact that heavier ammo goes further with greater accuracy lol, it's just like airsoft. 3 brick walls sounds about right for a 7.62, I'd have put that on the lower end of its penetration tbh, would've expected more. Though I'm thinking 3 brick walls that are set up on a range with only 2 inches between them, whereas it probably means, through one house and half way through the next one... Also, I've seen videos on YouTube of people hitting balloons at 900m with AR15s, whether or not they were modified or there was some dodgy camera work going on, I've no idea, but it can be done. So anything that's been altered to be better at that is going to be capable of it and I also know a guy who used to be an LSW gunner and an ex para who claims to have hit targets on a range at 900m with an LSW, so if they can equip them with the same ammo the Mk12 uses they'd probably be pretty effective. The Sharpshooter is supposed to be for targets around the 800m mark though, but a site owner at Skirmish once casually implied whilst giving me a lift to the site that he'd dropped a guy at 600m with a standard L85, which are only supposed to be effective to about half that, so I guess the only limitation is the shooters ability lol. That said, the longest range kill with a 7.62 is in the 1200m region, so 800m for the Sharpshooter sounds about right considering the record was done with a bolt action, getting that range accurately and consistently with a 5.56 would be exceptionally difficult/impossible. It was probably just the volume of fire that made it possible to hit targets at 900m, that or utterly perfect conditions.

Sorry I wasn't thinking drilled you're right the refraction and diffusion from the drilled surfaces would be really bad but maybe a purpose made moulded set with rows of holes. I was mostly thinking out loud as I have neither the time or ability to make anything like this, maybe in the hopes of someone who has the tech to make it work might give it a go and test it.

Thought I'd make use of the way my doctors are yet again experimenting on me to get some authentic looking rough stylee Soviet gear pics, but I had to mess with them summat bad to get anything half recognisable and there's only this one worthy of showing. More for the lols than anything. I spose the background leaves posibilities...

Problem is with most anti-fogging stuff is that come the summer I always found sweat caused more problems than anything - moved over to mesh but prefer glasses. What they need to invent is see-through mesh glass :-)

Anybody played at either of the East Anglia sites ? Couldnt find anything in the review section.

Hi all. My new store www.ak2m4.co.uk, is up currently up and running. It's primarily focused on selling the best Chinese/HK aftermarket parts like SHS and the recently popular ZCI and CORE brands which are popular in the US currently. ZCI products in particular offer great quality for their price, they just don't come in fancy packaging like SHS. As well as internal parts we also offer external accessories such as stocks, sights, grips, rails, mosfets etc. If there's anything I can help you with please get in touch. Regards Pete www.ak2m4.co.uk [email protected]

^^Yeah that charger will do the trick and having the PS built in makes it a fair deal at that price - especially if you're going to split the P&P by buying a battery at the same time. I forget the numbers exactly but I don't think you're supposed to charge 1600mAh batteries at higher than about 2/3A, so 700mAh capacity is not going to lose you anything in most instances that a more expensive </=5A charger would provide.