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Yo welcome back That rig will probably work fine. I've had this since 2018 and have been using it every now and then https://www.bespokeairsoft.co.uk/big-foot-d3crm-chest-rig-vest-with-three-magazine-pouch-black I also do have the M904g you are looking at and it's in shambles atm because of modding. The internals are slightly offspec from the usual m4 stuff so i've been having a nightmare trying to get a perun to work in it. The hop is somewhat propietary from being different in size and position. Also broken a few things in the gearbox from trying to increase power. Basically, it works decent but only if you don't plan on touching it inside. G&G combat machines are still great starter guns to this day, and still made better than those DE rifles. I have the raider 2.0 and I still think that's a better rifle. Honestly, anything 10 years ago is still great today, it's all about slinging pellets to a range afterall. The new cyma platinum series have been greatly received too, though i'd not tried one so can't validate that. But you know cyma, still rock solid mid tier as per usual. There have also been a surge of copy-and-paste companies that just make budget M4s, as if we don't have an abundance of them already. I'd just say avoid all them them.

I just looked at my two mags, the one I have issues with has the valve sticking out by maybe half a milimeter or so, so I'm gonna see about getting it screwed in just a bit through my gun tech, I think the first batch of mags had some QC issuesto start with which us not uncommon in any industry, but at least it means I don't have to file anything

That's all I fucking get I'm not selling anything, all my ads are completed but these new people can't read

That's interesting. Tbh once I've identified someone trying to sell me Voodoo dick enlargement with a side-order of chemicals and a Scandinavian girl-friend thrown in for the smallest of fees, well once I've finished signing up for that I don't bother looking at anything else! Was it one of those. or something a bit more 'targeted'?

Sadly that's what I suspected, I'll just have to keep searching. For some reason Ares aren't getting back to me about anything and I have checked my spam filter, it's been over 3 weeks 😕 I'm determined though, I will find this part Hi, so I had a look at what the gearbox looked like and it sadly doesn't look like that. But I do have an image of that gearbox. Would you be able to make any special orders if I find the specific part i am after? If you're only able to get the gearbox that is equally fine as it will be working.

OK, so does this serial number mean anything? I bought it non working at an auction at LAC's The Farm, apparently it belonged to an old guy who collected and had had to give up ether due to ill health or he had passed. I've not seen anything in google image searches, all of them either have later serial numbers or not at all. It's black, in good condition, no "Real Steel" trades, marked Model G2010. Could it really be No1? And what's it worth? It's now been serviced by a good local tech* and he did a great job. It works well with the recommended Maple Leaf 60 degree, reaches out very nicely and now the rubber is worn in it gives me a nice little range advantage over the average AEG. (First time out with it I was picking off a group trying to flank us and as they tried moved out of range the hop was wearing in, I kept adjusting it and hitting them until they were driven to the edge of the field! I swear I was getting over 60 yards.) It's nice, compact and swingable straight shooter with a decent length barrel, takes standard AR type mags. But... Despite that it ticks all my boxes theoretically as the bullpup I've been looking for, I don't find the angle of the pistol grip and front fore end very ergonomic. Why FN made them those strange and uncomfortable angles I can not fathom. Not really sure about the fire selector either. It's good for ambis though, so there's that. *TheButchersShopAirsoft

There are a lot of factors that have an effect on the physics of a ball being propelled out of a barrel FPS is the velocity in ‘Feet per second’ of the projective, normally measured at the point of exit from the barrel Joules are the measurement of the energy, and are calculated using the velocity and weight of the projectile (Chronographs measure the velocity and particular chronographs can be set to display a joules value based on set weights of BBs Beginning with the initial force imparted in the chamber from the spring and cushion of air, the projectile then accelerates along the barrel but also has friction resistance along the way. It seems to be common sense to assume that as the energy being put into the BB is the same, that a heavier BB would be slower (taking more force to push the heavier weight) and resulting in the same energy coming out - but in reality the combination of everything can vary the results - and ‘joule creep’ becomes a term - that by changing one factor (the BB) can result in a greater resultant energy as the BB exits the barrel ……….. Loose (overbore) / tight (underbore) / matched bores all have their own effect inside the barrel ……. And then even the flight can have different experiences My world is paintball, and we have those who swear by all of over/under/matched bores - and then we have different circumstances on how the paintball itself acts in the barrel - With overbore a paintball could float on a cushion of air or bounce around - some of the air is ‘wasted’ but still contributes to how the ball flies With underbore a paintball could be squashed (and if excessive can break) - when the paintball squeezes its way through the barrel all of the air behind it contributes to the energy imparted ……. No matter whether it’s a plastic BB or a gelatine paintball, the initial muzzle velocity is just the start (and is the metric that complies with the rules) The remaining velocity / energy upon impact varies based on its flight along the way. Which can also depend on how it went through the barrel and anything such as a hop up. The energy could be maintained in flight, or it could quickly drop. Optimum spin could maintain a ‘straight’ flight that hits (almost) where you pointed up to a set range then quickly drop, or you have a predictable curve that you need to compensate for at the targeted range - or it could just spray wildly in various random directions

Nephew just bought this, had a terrible air seal on stock bucking .74j and +/-15/20fps changed it out to a purple prommy and a bit of PTFE and it's gone to 1.07 @ +/- 1fps 😜 But it's pulling right. Anyone with experience please got an idea for the best bucking without having to file down the window (not my gun don't wanna risk breaking anything) Please let me know

So, just went looking for an exploded diagram for the Raptor SV98 and went to Raptor's web site (twraptor.com) and it's now got a holding page. I noticed they've not said anything on FB since Aug either. Anyone got any ideas?

So why did you change it? It's probably more to do with the specifics of the barrel and hop rubber than anything else. Joules are joules, FPS is FPS.

An elderly couple, Mary and Declan, live in Cork. Declan always wanted a pair of authentic riding boots. So seeing some on sale one day, he buys them, wears them home, walking proudly. He walks into the house and says to his wife ‘Notice anything different about me?’ Mary looks him over, ‘Nope.’ Frustrated, Declan storms off into the bathroom, undresses, and walks back into the room completely naked except for the boots. Again, he asks, a little louder this time ‘Notice anything different NOW?’ Mary looks up and says, ‘Declan , what’s different? It’s hanging down today, it was hanging down yesterday, and it’ll be hanging down again tomorrow.’ Furious, Declan yells, AND DO YOU KNOW WHY IT’S HANGING DOWN, MARY? ‘Nope’ she replies. ‘IT’S HANGING DOWN BECAUSE IT’S LOOKING AT MY NEW BOOTS!!!!!’ Declan yells. To which Mary replies…”Shoulda bought a hat, Declan.Shoulda bought a hat".

As gavinkempsell has pointed out, we had plethora of "death by gun" incidents, some were illegal firearms, but some were, & sometimes still are, legally held guns, so the laws became more restrictive. BUT As airsofters we came under scrutiny because at the time anyone over 18 could buy a realistic imitation firearm (rif), & so scumbags did & used them for criminal acts, this created a lot of problems, not least because at the time armed officers comprised less than 5% of the police, spread thin on the ground, a situation made worse when they were then tied up with crimes involving non lethal replicas that were easily obtained, & sometimes crimes involving genuine firearms were difficult to get suitable personnel in attendance. & don't get me started on the complications if an officer shoots someone, months of paperwork & suspension of duties even if its a real gun, but even worse if it's a teen (etc) with a replica. So the vcra came in to try to reduce the availability of replicas, doesn't do anything to prevent the use of real firearms, & most airsofters think it's very unfair on us. But the truth is we were very lucky not to lose Airsoft completely, or all to be forced to two-tone everything. So when noobs come on trying to circumnavigate vcra/ukara, understandably some of us get the hump, because everytime the law is broken it has the potential to wreck the fragile status quo we exist within. Yes & no, see above

Outcome unclear: did you died? ... and yet ... Which is a huge failure of foresight, given that people are gunning out of them, or windows will be open. Granted, there are plenty of other "shoulds" in airsoft that can result in injury if not followed, like removing eyepro in game, or lobbing BFGs at head height - which I've been on the receiving end of. What makes TAGs special are that they're always carrying much, much more energy than anything else being shot, and that once you've pulled the trigger, there's plenty of time for things to change at your intended point of impact. I'd nope out of any event that allows them.

I guess it’s the same with any Ford; more of them on the road than anything else so you see more for sale. I guess this answers my question though thank you. Quality remains quality; and if they keep their value I guess it makes the most sense to move them on. I just see a lot of adverts for TM guns (by the way you can list TM guns for sale without having everything in caps)

My first airsoft purchase and my most used gun, no complaints, takes a beating and great out the box. Had a few little bits modified, added a Titan mosfet for trigger fun and new rubber/barrel, didn't need anything else doing to it for it to be grande.

You have two choices when it comes to radios for Airsoft purposes and they each have their pros and cons. You can either use a PMR 446 or a licensed radio such as a Baofeng. PMR 446 Comes in two types, analogue which has 8 channels and digital which is 16 channel. Most people use analogue as digital is still expensive. Is unlicensed so you can just buy a radio and it will work with all other PMR 446 radios. It is limited to 0.5W. It is lower range and penetration than a licensed radio. In thick woodland expect below 100m sometimes you can shout further. In open ground in the best conditions it could go 1KM. They have a fixed antenna so you can't change it. Licensed Radio Baofeng is the make that most people buy due to the costs. The UV-5R is a cheap and decent radio with a tonne of possible accessories. The UV-82 and other radios in that series from Baofeng can do two push to talk buttons for two different frequencies which is a really awesome for radio men as they can talk on either of the frequencies they have setup. The UV-5R can tune into 2 channels at once but it can't transmit on both only one of them. The UV-5R can be used at 2 power outputs, 1W and 4W. There is also a High power model which has an additional 8W mode which isn't usable with a UK simple business license. You can do just about anything with a license and could get a personal frequency just for your group but it could cost thousands of pounds. However the easiest and cheapest thing to do is to buy a Simple UK business license (https://secure.ofcom.org.uk/busrad/). It is £75 for 5 years and takes about 2 weeks to come through, it requires little more than name + address. It will give you some FM, VHF and UHF frequencies for a total of 11 usable on a Baofeng UV-5R and you can hand out these to a group you play with or just some people on the same site for the day. Businesses all over the UK share the frequencies so you may have to move channel to avoid interfering but you have plenty of options. The license grants up to 5W of power and the Baofeng on high uses 4W. The license is for narrow band which is the same as the PMR 446 uses. These penetrate through a lot more woodland and go a lot further as they are 10x more powerful. They have a replaceable antenna so you can get a smaller one to fit your gear or a much bigger one to allow better reception and a bit more power. The Baofeng can be tuned to receive the PMR 446 frequencies. However because it is too powerful (1W) and has a removable antenna (which can change the power output) and it can use other frequencies its not legal to use it on PMR 446 frequencies. Thus if you are using a Baofeng for this purpose you are committing a crime. It is OK to listen but you can't transmit. The Baofeng radio's as far as I know all come with push to talk buttons and an ear piece in the box, the UV-5R certainly does. You can also get accessory ones from other companies like Code red headsets, Z Tactical and Baofeng themselves. The plug it uses is called a Kenwood so when looking for addons this is what you need, its widely supported. There are a vast array of options even to the point where you can get a bone conduction set for $100 or so.

Do not know, didn't spot anything that looked like a good all day car park on the way in or out, was my first time attending and their website/staff certainly don't mention that. Looking at google maps there's at least 1 standard pay-and-display car park close enough that carrying all one's equipment might be safe/viable, potentially, haven't really dug in to it as the site is a decent distance from me so it won't be my regular or anything (plus I need my guns sorting lol).

My first outdoor game, amazing! Anyway. I just got home and the gun did go through a lot so I wanted to just clean the inner barrel (without) opening the gun. So I put a paper towel on the rod and slowly stuck the rod inside, I did it slowly in a circular motion. I was met with a lot of resistant and I manage to push through and clean the the upper part of the barrel a tiny bit. I'm to scared to go full down incase i damage something on the way. However, when i took the rod out, this is the colour that came out. A bit yellowish and orangy Just wondering if I have done anything wrong, am I removing the grease or the oil in the barrel? I've stopped whatever I'm doing, really don't want to damage the inner barrel. sorry for sounding stupid.

As previously stated, 90m at UK power limits is not impossible But indescribably improbable. UK Snipers are typically accurate (With internal tech work done) accurate up to the 70-80m area. Some systems achieve this easier than others, and some systems are able to push range up slightly despite our power limits because of other factors (i.e. Super high volume cylinders push heavier BBs). Before anything else, do some research on websites with may more info on this topic specifically - https://www.airsoftsniperforum.com has a treasure trove of the nitty gritty details for sniper work. Searching up the platform your about to buy on here usually gives you a wealth of details and such that you'll want to know to get your sniper going as far as it Possibly can. But to get the lightest, quietest and furthest shooting sniper you can, you've got two options - Tac41 or VSR. VSR is a more well-documented platform. With better support and more tech guides. However, it is a bit harder to get into peak performance (imo) and its generally louder than the Tac-41. On the other hand, the Tac-41 is an easier upgrade. It only Needs a Spring swap to get great range, But for the quiet aspect, you'll also want a WASP or other quiet piston, which is also a pretty easy swap out. Its a little heavier than the VSR, but its not as heavy as the other two Silverback options (SRS and HTI. Above all, slap a decent suppressor on the end of the barrel and that'll do a lot for the noise.

I would recommend a 7.4v LiPo, personally, as LiPo is currently the best chemistry for airsoft due to the combination of burst amps, stability, power to weight, and price. LiFe are fine, but will be larger, with less burst discharge (what you need for airsoft electrical draw). You don’t have to do anything to “convert” it to 11.1v. It’ll run on 11.1v right now. The caveats are the consequences. Depending on the quality of your trigger contacts, an 11.1v may burn them out. Good contacts will easily last 150K+ cycles, but we all know how allergic airsoft and quality are to each other. This can be fixed with some basic dielectric grease on the trigger contacts, or by a MOSFET chip wired into the contacts. Those units you plug in don’t actually protect anything, Secondly, an 11.1v may give you PME, which is where your gears are moving too fast for your piston, causing heavy wear or critical failure. To test, listen for hitching in the cycle when using 11.1v, and chrono test for any drops in FPS using full auto. This can be fixed by, as you mentioned, a stronger spring. You can then shorten the barrel or short stroke to reduce FPS to correct levels.