Speedbird_666

Go on then, what country is it? I mean, no one cares enough on here to nick your genius idea, so you may as well spill the beans.

Well, at least he listens to advice. Price-dropped to a more realistic £250.

I've never had this issue TBH. As others have said, you have no 'form' on these forums. You don't have an Avatar. In fact you don't have anything in your profile to indicate that you engage in any kind of LARPsoft/BBwarz at all. I am also perplexed as to how you can be ranked a 'Collaborator' with just 16 posts - not your fault - this new rank system is proper broken.

I would wager not. The pictures I posted included the M89A/UMP mag - which is a G&G clone. The feed port is toward the rear of the mag, the UTR it's towards the front.

11.1v reduces the trigger switch life, and the more times it's activated (I.E semi auto) the quicker it will wear/burn out through electrical arcing across the contacts if there is no mosfet installed. How long those contacts will last really depends on a few factors, including the quality of the switch in the first place. They could last months, or years, or fail during the first day of play. Personally, if repairing you existing guns is not an option, I would bin off the idea of buying a Cyma and get one of these instead for £40 more. It has a proper fire control unit/Mosfet that side-steps the 11.1v issue entirely as it's an optical switch. Lots of info on this thread here:

G&G PCC45 mags *look* like UMP mags, but they are absolutely not. The mag feed tube exits differently on top so they cannot interface with the hop unit - there is no cross-compatibility between the PCC45 and G&Gs own UMP(G). DE/G&G UMP: DE UTR 45: G&G PCC45: All mags are pictured in the same orientation (front closest) off patrolbase's product pages. Not convinced that PCC45 mags will work in the UTR45 either, there seems to be subtle geometry differences in the feed tube sizing an position.

Personally, I wouldn't bother. The OEM brass barrel on the Krytac is fairly decent from what I've seen/heard. Internal finish is more important than the bore size, but the Hop Rubber/Nub combo has a far more significant impact overall, and you've already done those. As @Cr0-Magnon says, it's unlikely you'll see much, if any, improvement with a tightbore. You might see a slight FPS increase though, which is something you'll need to careful of given NI Laws.

Can't make my mind up between a DE UTR556 or an ICS CXP-16. I know ICS really well, but I am tempted to jump on the Double Eagle train just because I keep hearing good things about them.

Interesting. I've been looking at these. The lack of magazine options has put me off, I just need a hi-cap or two (or even a drum mag) and a bag of BB's to play these days and it seems only mid-caps are available at the moment. I wonder if it's compatible with G&G PCC45 mags? Otherwise, at half the cost of a G&G PCC45 and this a better looking gun (IMO), i think DE is onto a winner here.

I like the cut of your Jib. We tried Chest rigs (including a custom-made kid-sized one as per my previous pic), Belt rigs etc. with my boys, but found them encumbering (at best) and hot, uncomfortable and fatigue-inducing (during the summer) at worst. Once I gave them a bag of BB's, two hi caps and a Aliexpress cheapo dump pouch, their enjoyment in playing went up considerably. A cheap Magpul MS3 sling knockoff also helps too between the games so they can rest their arms. Of course some kids want to look like they've jumped straight out of a COD game, or decked out like SEAL Team 6, but they are just kids at the end of the day and I've seen enough youngsters blowing chunks or breathing out of their arse decked out in plate carriers and and full brain bucket setups over the years to know it's not a good idea. I like playing with my two as I get them to do all the stupid stuff my fat arse can't be bothered to do. Need a runner to flank quickly? send a kid. Need a point guy to hit a building?, send a kid. Need a suicide run for the flag? You get the idea.....😁

Should be in post tomorrow mate. Hopefully it'll tide you over until a better shell can be sourced. As I've said in other threads, I know E&C shells work from first hand experience, but getting hold of one is difficult in the UK at the moment as you've found. I know Retroarms are producing Specna-branded gearbox shells, but they cost as much, if not more than a complete Specna CORE gun. Another option is to buy the cheapest Specna CORE gun for around £100, gut the GB out of it and sell off the externals. A faff, but a feasible option? I've not heard anywhere nearly as many issues with the CORE series internals.

Funnily enough I've actually got a set of Valken-branded Pyramex V2G goggles (they cost about £30 IIRC). My eldest used to use them with his helmet setup, using a mesh lower. He now uses Paintball goggles. Found the lack of ventilation in the Pryamex a real problem with sweat/condensation (but not necessarily fog) dripping down the lens. Like you say, cheek weld can be an issue for goggles though, but my boys don't seem to mind watching the BB's and adjusting aim from their flight, although drop-stocks/red dot risers can mitigate this.

Good for you. Again - Low and high-end goggles are very much the same when it comes to protection - they have to all conform to the same safety standards when it comes to use at any insured Paintball field. In fact you can argue that lower-end goggles offer more protection in terms of facial coverage (generally larger profile) and use the of hard plastics instead of rubber and other soft materials (i.e. around the ears and jaw). Hard plastics suck for paintball, but for BBWarz/LARPsoft...not so much. You are paying for - looks, comfort (which is subjective because everyone's head is different) and of course, the Dye logo (overrated in my experience). And there is no way that I ever would buy my 13 year old a £160-odd set of goggles just so they can roll with the cool kids.

Dude - the Profiler shits all over Grills. I've owned several sets of both 'back in the day'. If they ever do a 'v2' Profiler (with soft ears) I would buy a set in a heartbeat. And everyone knows, that without a shadow of doubt, the best goggles (ever) are 1st Gen JT Flex 7/Proflexs with the super soft rubber lower (newer ones - post 2002ish changed the rubber and are not as good). Had so many bounces off that thing - saved me a couple of times in tournaments. I digress... @C-Diddy Whilst I5s have become 'de rigueur' with the Speedsoft kids, they are eye-wateringly expensive for a 12 year old that's never played. This is me, with my two boys last year - I'm wearing E-Flexes along with the younger son (he nicked my spare - he has a set of green Helixs normally), my older son has the black Helix. All use the same lenses, just the frames that vary. The Helix foam around the frame is not as 'plush' as the higher end goggles though. If I was buying again - I would lean slightly towards the HK Army HSTL because it has an 'over the head' strap that will reduce the chance of it slipping down on a smaller head (i.e. kids). The foam looks better than the Helixs too, which definitely helps with comfort over a full day of play.

Don't need the Dye I4/5's for a 12 year old. All paintball goggles from a major manufacturer have the same safety ratings. My 13 year-old uses these (I actually have a few sets for both my sons/loaners): https://www.justpaintball.co.uk/products/empire-helix-thermal Or for a few more quid, I hear these are pretty good value for money: https://www.bzpaintball.co.uk/hk-army-hstl-goggle-thermal I personally use E-flexs - I've been using Empire goggles since waaay back in my Paintball-playing days.

Is it just the shell you need? I have a spare Orion shell that came out of an Edge that can tide you over until @ak2m4 restocks if it's any help? It's done less then 1000rds through it, still structurally sound. I polished the piston and tappet rails to clean up the burrs. No use to me, a tenner posted?

Just an FYI - E&C Gearboxes are not a straight drop-in for the Specna Edge - the mock bolt-release mechanism parts will have to be removed from the shell and the spring posts for said mechanism will need to be Dremeled-off. I have an E&C GB in an Edge (supplied by @ak2m4 a year or so ago), and once modded fits fine.

I did a club-buy for some 10 RC Aircraft kits from Belgium just after Xmas - nearly shit myself when I had a UPS shipping notice - the vendor promised to use another company. I nearly cancelled the entire order based on the shit with TaiwanGun. Had an email from UPS to pay my VAT/Admin charge online. My order arrived exactly four days after shipping from the Vendor with no issues whatsoever. And the box was huge too, bigger than a RIF being shipped although not as heavy. I just don't get what their problem is, other than the fact that most orders contain RIFs? If Gunfire can do it, why can't TG? Answers on a postcard....

Did you buy them new from Fire-support? Or is the gun 2nd hand and you've ordered a new stock for it? Because if the gun was ordered new, you would have been better off ordering this instead: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ics-metal-mx5-a5-airsoft-gun-aeg I'm fairly certain that the wiring exits the back of the Gearbox on both fixed or sliding stock versions (assuming it's the 'old' model MP5, not the CES type they now also sell), with a tamiya connector attached very close to the gearbox itself - there's more room in an MP5 receiver than an M4 to do this. Extensions are used on both versions to wire to either the rear stock or the front hand guard of the gun. Should be fairly easy if you a handy with a crimping tool or soldering iron - you shouldn't need to open the Gearbox at all. Get some good quality wire and deans connectors (Tamiya connectors must die!) and you are golden. *EDIT* it turns out the wiring extensions for the Front or Rear of the gun are the same ICS part, so take the extension already in the fixed stock and route it through the upper receiver of the gun instead. Zero cost - No need for soldering or replacement parts at all, assuming the existing wiring is in good shape. A very old video from ICS (1min onward for the stock removal and wiring extension):

I have that exact model. It's shit. It was for my son, but he's nicked my Lonex gun instead as the Orion GB shit itself several times. It now has a complete E&C GB in there, but the bugger still won't use it so it's consigned to be a 'spare of a spare' in the kitbag - i.e. the last gun to get pulled out if all the others I've got fail or used as a loner. Shame really because shoots alright now (I mean, there's no Specna Internals left in it), but it's still pretty boring to look at compared to the new offerings from other manufacturers (such as Double Eagle et al).

Not defending his actions but he's served his time and karma has caught up with him with a vengeance in the form of Motor Neuron Disease. Call him a piece of shit all you want, but I wouldn't wish that diagnosis on anybody. I've never met the bloke, but watched a few vids of his musings on the UCAP FB page (I really must get to the bunker or Valiant) and I like the cut of his jib when it comes to the running of his sites and his thoughts on Airsoft in general. The two-tone thing is odd, but who cares really - new players can rent from the site if needs be.

Whilst i wholeheartedly agree in principle with the above, there are some issues with the gun you have chosen that really should be rectified with some (non-invasive) upgrades. Perhaps these are not 'upgrades', more like fixes to make your experience a whole lot nicer. The G&G Raider-L 2.0 is equipped with G&G's notorious ETU unit which (unless recently rectified by G&G) has been a royal pain in the rectum when it comes to batteries (and reliability!) for many a player. The low-voltage cutoff will simply shut the gun down prematurely unless you are using 9.6v NiMhs, or 11.1v LiPos (bye bye warranty with some retailers with the latter). Commonly used 7.4v LiPo's can be very problematic. The fitting of a Perun ETU++ will fix this issue, it's a simple plug-in job that does not require the receiver to be opened up. You can then use a small 7.4v LiPo (space is a premium in that little PDW stock receiver extension). Problem is - you are then left with the godawful stock ferrite motor which ain't great on a 7.4v LiPo. So factor in an SHS/Rocket Hi Torque replacement. On my son's G&G CM16 SRS (essentially the same gun internally), I have only replaced those two items and it's now a lovely little shooter (still using the stock barrel and hop rubber). Snappy enough on the trigger, but not crazy ROF, but with the extra benefit of the programming options on the Perun unit. Just my 2 pence.

Oof. The classic G&G cracked BlowBack GB shell. I think G&G's idea of mitigating cracked GB's these days is to put a metal spacer inside the receiver (sitting around the hop unit) to 'brace' the front of the shell against the front of the receiver itself. I don't know if that's an option on MP5s though. Replacement shells are available here: https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/gg-version-2-gearbox-case-blow-back-version I would replace the shell, then get rid of the gun personally as it's a known design issue, and not a question of if, but when it will fail again. Of course you can disable the BlowBack and follow Herr Hamsters advice, along with aggressively 'radiusing' the gearbox's cylinder cutout, which will help to some degree. If you choose to use a non-blowback GB shell, I would suggest sticking with G&G to maximise the chances of drop-in compatibility.

Well, that's - umm - different. I'd be hitting that thing with acetone and a pair of scissors to cut that crap off pretty sharpish. I like the fore grip rail adapter though. Nice and low profile - looks good.

Bin off that stock, that's what I did with my son's G&G with the same fitted. Get a PTS EPS and call it done. Worth every penny IMO.