SeniorSpaz87

Yes, there are offset F2 nozzles though they are for specific guns, so its got to line up with an existing cylinder head.

Most of the second half I disagree with to some extent - F2 is excellent for support platforms, and has preformed in the role better than my Wolverine engines which shine in DMR/semi auto or quiet builds. I do agree with the Jack/F1 though - only reason I own a Jack is that its literally the only engine that will fit in a TM MP7. His main issue is that the RPD appears to have an offset nozzle. While the cylinder replacement takes care of the fit, the nozzle is going to be a big problem and either require a new gearbox design (like I had to do for my STAR L86), or youll likely be forced to use the Wolverine Hydra. Its a somewhat subpar engine IMO, but its the only one that really supports a wide range of offset nozzles.

When you want all the trademarks. TM NGRS Delta with essentially the full KOA package. I basically took their build list and send it to my tech for a good bit less. Still instantly became one of my most expensive guns.

I switched to Delta Mike FacePro. Protects the teeth and doesnt get in the way of my sight

Maybe. It does actually have a small flat section in the path. So far there is no catching of the spring. There already are 5 bolts in there, and it so far holds up from the spring with just 2, so with all 5 in it should be good. If I start seeing failures where you mention then I may change that. I have also had serious issues with prints with that much contact with my printbed. V1 was basically a solid block to get the fit right, and I ended having to print it with the top of the mag down after a half-dozen failed prints trying to print it side-down. If someone wants to test the print on that side I can easily send you a modified file, but on my Prusa mk3S I am yet to have that style of print succeed.

Well, it took until v7 for all the various issues to be ironed out, but my ICS Galil Midcaps are done for now. They are designed to use PTS EPM springs and followers, as well as 5 M3x14 bolts, 5 M3x0.5 square nuts, the bottom screw and square nut from the high cap, and the spring/retainer arm from the high cap. This particular one holds 104 BBs. I will do a feeding test once I get my Galil back from the shop - should be at least two weeks. To be honest the surplus of bolts is a bit overkill and technically none are needed - the metal high cap shell provides plenty of compression strength and the sole bottom bolt/nut would technically hold the insert in place, but I have like 300 random M3 bolts and nuts from other projects, and this way mag insterts can be kept in one piece outside of the shell, for shipping or should a user ever want to switch back to a highcap.

Silverback is releasing their MDR-X soon as well.

So ICS Galil Insert v2 was a partial success. It took BBs, but stopped at about 50 rounds which is far short of what it should take. I think the follower got caught at the base of the first turn. The initial turn to put the BB exit at the center of the mag was too twisting, leading to the follower getting stuck there. The decrease from double stack to single there also was too extreme, meaning BBs would get stuck there. The mags also squished onto my printbed slightly, leading to a slight edge on all edges which may interfere with feeding. So v3 now has a very slight rounding to all edges to counteract that, the insert that the hop unit goes into has been made slightly ovular to allow it to fit the hop easier, the BB pathing has been reworked with gentler curves to help feeding, the double to single area has been massively extended (may cause the mag to not feed the last 5 rounds or so, but thats an issue for future Spaz), and because I could I added about another 3 BB length to the feed tube. v3 is not going to be printed - instead I will begin on v4 which will integrate the 5 clasping bolts, the sole bottom retainer bolt, and the BB retainer and spring slot. v2: v3:

That tool is an AR buffer tube wrench, also called an AR wrench on the other side of the pond if youre looking for one.

Decided to take advantage of the snow and take the Tropentarn out to play. Works pretty darn well.

Terms: P* (Polarstar), OOTB (out of the box), DI (Drop In), CR (Cylinder Replacement), MC (Mancraft), W (Wolverine), ME (Mechanical), FE (Fusion Engine) So Im in the US, which means HPA is far more common and available. As far as I know I have used quite literally every HPA system out there, barring a few unique or uninteresting ones to me (Russian "bear", Im looking at you). Daytona, Escort (pre-Daytona), W Inferno, Reaper, Reaper M, SMP, Hydra, Bolt, Bolt M, P* FE v2, FE v3, FE 249, Jack, F1, F2, Valken v12, Tapp HPA adapters, CQBRussian HPA taps, custom one-off HPAs, Redline engines, MC sDiKs, and probably a few others Ive forgotten. Ones I havent used include the P* Kythera, Redline MilSim, the aforementioned Russian "bear" (aka MedVed), and as stated single-gun engines like the old JACs. P* is, by far, my favorite for a few reasons. First, LCD FCUs. Wolverine engines are a PITA to adjust to exactly what you want - the older versions using two screwdriver dials, and the newer having an extremely basic FCU with lights to show settings. P* is all written out on an LCD screen, like a calculator screen. Second, are FEs. The only true drop in and go engines (besides the v12, but we dont talk about the v12) means you can keep your AEG gearbox together for a rainy day, to shove into another gun, or to use as spare parts. The F2 has the power of the FE but is a CR engine, like almost everything else on this list bar the Daytonas. Basically this means it uses your old gearbox. Closely following this is the Wolverine Reaper. While Ive found the F2 to be an easier drop in, theres no denying how quiet and air-efficient you can make this top of the line wolverine engine. If the FCU was better OOTB it would be neck and neck with the F2, and if Id not had to work so hard to get Reapers to work well in some odd guns itd be ahead of the F2. W then makes an interesting engine - the Hydra. The Hydra is made for all those offset nozzle guns. Im not a huge fan of the engine itself, having not-great experiences with it in my P90, but if you have an offset gun and dont want to design an entirely new gearbox (something I have done a time or two) its your best option. P* has made offset nozzles for the F2, but they arent too common (still looking for a PDR-C nozzle...). A few notes about some of the other engines. The V12 is trash. Easily the worst HPA system out there and not worth looking at. The Jack is the worst engine that is actually worth the time to install in your gun. Personally Id avoid it if you can. The only one I still own is in my Marui MP7, as thats literally the only engine that will fit in it. The F1 is just a closed-bolt Jack. Daytonas are extremely fun, but some of the most time-intensive, expensive, inaccurate, PITA to work on systems out there. When they work its cleanup on aisle everyone-on-the-field's pants, but they are just such a hassle. I dont put much stock in the ME systems like the Kythera, Reaper M, or Redline MilSim as I dont run many DMRs - though the option to forgo a battery entirely is awesome if you will never go auto. If I didnt always run LMG or SMG at MilSims Id probably have a few of these engines installed over the many FEs, F2s, and various W engines I do have. Now, since you didnt mention what gun I will go ahead and talk about the bolties. You have two main options - W and MC. W has the two Bolts, while MC has the sDiKs. Bolt is the older model that uses a battery, Bolt M is ME and doesnt use a battery. I have a Bolt in my VSR and its great. A real ninja converter of an engine, I can be audibly invisible 20 feet from a person with a good foam suppressor. The sDiKs are sorta like the Hydra to me - they are available for tons more oddball bolties, but I could never get the performance out of them, their installs are odd and have weird placement (like my MSR wanting the hose to go out the trigger?!), and they just seem clunkier than the Bolts. All in all I probably currently own some 25+ HPA guns of various makes and manufactures. Some notable ones are my Inferno PKM, FE 249, Daytona MG36, L85, and M27, Bolt VSR, Jack MP7, FE PP-91 (see the "Mosquito' thread on here), F2 L86, F2 AUG HBAR, and F2 G28LE/417A2. I am happy to say more about certain engines if you wish. You will also - regardless of what engine you get - need a good tank and regulator to run said gun. HPA is expensive to get into, but IMO needs far less effort to tune, and breaks far less than AEGs. That being said I keep a steady supply of HPA, AEG, and even spring guns in my collection, so I can use whatever happens to strike my fancy on a particular game day.

Working on some ICS Galil midcap inserts. While I use drums in my Galil ARM, I do like to have a trio or so of midcaps alongside my drums in case they go down. Nothing exists for the ICS Galil besides some expensive high caps, and you all know how much I hate tactical maracas. So I figure these $7 (worth of material) inserts combined with a $6 EPM spring will work. Still waiting on an EPM insert to work on the internals, so its just a solid block for now.

I am kinda of both minds. On the one hand, I do not build any of my guns to be too high ROF, whether HPA or AEG. With the advent of Titans and ROF limiters on AEGs all my Titan builds are locked at 20RPS. HPA is even easier to tune - they get the same 20 for the most part. I also have several guns that, when built, just shoot slower. My QJB-95 sits around 15RPS, for instance. I only have 3-4 guns above that rate - my M134, M132, my KA 9mm SBR (shoots 26RPS through no fault of its own, just happened when I switched to 11.1s), and im sure theres a gun or two in there that is above 20 as well. And to top that most of the time I have them on burst or fire 3-5 round bursts on auto, if its not a semi-only game. I personally do not like accuracy through volume, whether indoors or out. What I dont like, however, is people wanting to ban HPA simply because it can be used to easily cheat. I can just as easily cheat any chrono with one of my TItan AEGs as I can with HPA - even easier in fact. You can tournie-lock my HPA reg, but you cant stop me from popping my QC gearbox open and changing springs, and its just as easy to attach my Titan programming card to my gun as it is to change FCU settings on HPA - easier in fact if it isnt a FCU with a screen. If sites would learn to lock regulators and pay attention to their players its not a hard thing to catch those trying to cheat (also I am all for reasonable ROF limits at fields), instead of just banning anything HPA.

Does this count? I feel bad for the kid - it sucks to not have enough money for a replica you really want, but come on. Even boneyard ones go for twice that...

If you look inside some of them may have 11mm internal threads. Pistol adapters are pretty common if they have those. This is the type of thing youll need if they do have internal threads: https://www.zerooneairsoft.com/products/JBU-Pistol-Barrel-to-14mm-CCW-Thread-Adaptor

Never had any sort of issue with him, and I probably have 15-20 pieces in total from him. A lot of it comes down to the material he can get at the time.

Nov for people who dont want to open a gun and are fine paying more, TM for anyone with a little patience and the ability to build a 400 piece Lego set.

First I apparently have to find the damn thing... It works. Its kind of like using a Trijicon SRO or RMR. No lag like many other thermals. Close in you can use it as a sight, otherwise its more of a spotting tool. Your ghillie suit wont help you now haha

I can take some, sure. I have the T10 which doesnt have the quick release, and mines a x1, not a x3 like the T12 in the video. I usually run it on a 90* mount.

On my quest to pervert rare airsoft guns I present v1 of my JS9 build. v2 is currently printing, with a few small mods and a proper retention system. Ideally I will find a compatible SMG mag that is only as wide as a MP5 mag, but wider to do a proper QCW-05 or QCQ-05 build. If so I will redesign it to fit around said mag - the real Q-series uses a 5.8mm bullet that results in a longer mag (front to back).

Please note most of mine are the electric versions, not the flashmag version. My sole flashmag version is not doing too well compared to the electrics - the cable quickly frayed and gums up the mechanism.

Find an old Safariland 6000 series holster. Secondhand theyre reasonable on price, and will fit your gun and most pistol lights. Avoid anything with a laser as they dont help you in any way, are banned at many sites, and will limit your holster options. Youll want to look for either a Glock .40cal or a G17 model holster - depending on who Nov copied his G18 from will depend on which it fits. For instance WE is slightly oversized and requires either modification (easy to do with kydex) or a .40cal holster. Like this for example: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/372074582487?hash=item56a15f91d7:g:ciUAAOSwJM5fUjQG

They work well, I own 5 or 6 at this point. I only would recommend the G&P Fast Attack Type drums over them. The pressure switch on the G&Ps is far easier to use on a bullpup like the L86 over the button (or flash winder) on the ACs and seems to feed more BBs/sec/ Also, the G&P is slightly taller - meaning itll fit more guns. Its the only drum to fit the 416 series Ive found so far.

Think thats a NVG imager, not a thermal. Again, the TP stuff may be ITAR restricted, which means you wont find it outside the US.