SeniorSpaz87

... PPS XM26...

Thats me with my PPK with my Russian loadout. It looks the same, and even has PP in the name. That counts right? Haha

So heres some real steel context, from someone whos worked on a top tier range for the last several years. Dots are certainly faster. Dots work in any light. If you have good recoil control dots can allow for faster follow-up shots. The main issue you have Kasaran is how far forward your dot is. Thats just going to exponentially increase your dot's sway. Now, for airsoft theyre... less important. Yes, you can still find a sight picture faster than irons. Yes, they still work in the dark. But if you can't control the recoil of your gun in airsoft then go back to nerf haha. Plus, the only real use for a pistol in the military is for someone like a sniper with a long gun whos going close range (same with MEDs), or for when you run out of ammo in your primary (more difficult in the world of midcaps and high caps). Finally people tend to spam-fire in airsoft anyway, not even giving themselves time to reacquire the sights after a shot. I personally have dots on two of my many pistols: my TM G18 that I use as a dryfire/training gun more than a skirmish gun, and my mk23. It usually stays in my pack at MilSims with a lot of indoor play, as I like to find a dark corner and essentially assassinate people with the silenced mk23, and the dot helps me make sure my first round is going to be at least aimed properly. So they arent really all that useful in airsoft compared to the real world. Oh, and while many militaries shy away from dots due to much harsher conditions for their guns and gear, many LEO forces are going to them. Probably 2/3 LEO members that come through our school have dot guns now, and are either in the process of transitioning themselves or their department over to them. Its easier to teach "put dot on target" than " make sure this post is centered between these two posts, and then make sure the top of that post is even with those two posts. Dots also make longer-range shots much easier. We ran a new course this past Fall that we told our SEAL instructors to make as an "Advanced Operators" course (pretty much meant: "go crazy, we dont even want yall to be able to clear this course), and on long range (25 & 50 yrds) distances the guys using dots statistically scored a fair bit high both on shot accuracy and number of shots on target in the timed scenarios.

Daytona.

A ton of all-day weekend-long MilSims, and a single 48-hour MilSim. Camped on the field, and while it was agreed upon that there was a ceasefire at night there were select Ops going on, and you were allowed to patrol any objectives you held at the end of the night phase.

Agreed. Figured we needed more representation in the states, so I got another L series. Daytona L85A3 to go along with my STAR L86A2.

Never used that heavy - generally used .32gs myself. Granted none of my remaining three are r-hopped so maybe yours can handle it.

A good bit of wear is always nice.

As a fan of Daytonas (think I have now owned 6 plus one pre-Daytona) they do require a lot of work and love. Remember to lube. Ima avoid the usual Daytona innuendos here but if you arent filthy by the end of a break-in session you arent using enough lube. Never done a 240 but I did do a 249 and a m60. Enjoy.

I bet. And yes, thats what I meant. One small issue there -I live in the US haha.

Gotta love that HTI. If someone offered pre-built Silverbacks or HTIs Id own one...

If you have a heat gun then you can probably do it in one go. If youre gonna use the stove then id recommend doing it over several tries to lower the risk of burning the holster and setting off any smoke alarms haha.

Kydex is quite easy to remold a bit, assuming you have the proper supplies. Kydex, when heated, turns to the consistency of a wet towel. The best way to work it is to get a heat gun (not a hair dryer or something like it, but a true heat gun), wrap a bit of tape around the part of the gun that has to fit (Kydex will shrink slightly when cooled, so a bit of extra width with the tape balances it out), heat the area with gentle back-and-forth motions, and when it starts to sag shove the gun in and let it cool. If you don't have access to a heat gun then a stove burner can do, but you have to be careful of burning the kydex and your fingers. Its also a lot less precise than a heat gun. I've remolded several of my kydex holsters; from enlarging a PPK/s holster to fit a PPK, to enlarging a Safariland 226 holster to fit the slightly larger than RS WE226. Keep in mind Kydex can only stretch so far, so if its too large of a modification it may not be possible. Source - my grandfather invented the Kydex holster.

Necro #2. The Lord's work is done! A final order from the motherland netted me the correct gorka suit in gold berezka, the correct gloves, the correct boots, and a medical pouch to replace the rights-side Vityaz pouch. Turns out that airsoft PP-19-01 mags are slightly larger than the real steel counterparts, so the 6 pouches I had wont work. Oh well, they have since been replaced by a triple HSGI taco pistol pouch. The DP-28 is also coming along - the planned 2-3 print part has become a 6-print part, with at least one more needed for proper feeding. I hope to sit down and finish it over the winter.

This all I need? I’m aware I have two of each part - one for the carbine mk23 and one for the pistol mk23, hence the bucking differences. Figured as long as there’s no downside I might as well go with the triple TDC, feel free to correct me otherwise. For a barrel for the carbine - PDI, Lamda, prommy, etc what would y’all recommend?

Ello again. Im building a mk23 DMR using TrungTheMaker's mk23 kit. Im going to be using a Nov SSX-23 simply because I can get one off a friend cheap, and if I mess up when hacking it apart … Well, who really cares? Im planning to place an order from Hadron for a TDC, but I come to you guys for a full upgrade list. Not looking to do custom stuff yet in terms of quieting and such - purely looking for parts right now. I need a 300mm barrel, bucking, H-arm or whatever, etc. Ideally Id stick with all things from Hadron (barrel is gonna have to come from somewhere else obviously), but Im kind of clueless on H-plate vs FANG plate, single vs double vs triple adjustment TDC, etc. So tell me what to buy haha.

AFUK's resident Yank here - thats false. The orange tip is only required for a store to import airsoft guns, and in places like Commiefornia where the rules are alot more along the lines of two tone.

When someone calls in a Tactical Nuke in a modded lobby

Gotcha. So standard 762 PMags are too big huh?

Why bother with a Scar? I get the vz61, but theres plenty of mags for the Scar on the market, and some quite cheaply too.

I might have a chance to shoot a real one this weekend, Ill let you know if thats true haha.

So I tend to match guns to kit. My Russian guns are almost all black or green (SV-98). About half my HKs are tan as I mostly run Tropentarn, but I do also have options in black for when I run Flecktarn (416a5, G28, 417a2, MP7, M27 tan and M27, MP7, 417, MP5, 415c black. Yes I have two MP7s, M27s, and 417s). Generally you wont notice much difference when it come to camo. One thing to think of - if you ever plan to paint your gun picking a different base color may make more sense. A green or black camo will work easier on a black gun, while a tan or white camo works better on a tan gun.

If only my VSR-X wasnt so darn chonkers, Id already have Enfield, Kar, and Mosin stocks for it. Unfortunately I just cant see either a G&G or S&T version really being competitive... Sure, if you want to look the part they will probably be Ace, but I also like to be able to tickle people at 120m...