Sitting Duck

A JOKE but if this truly offends then mods please remove
 
A Jewish/Scottish/extremely careful with his money (delete as required)
man goes into the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends)
and prays. "O Lord, you know the mess I'm in, please let me win the lottery."
 
The next week, he's back again, and this time he's complaining...
O Lord, didn't you hear my prayer last week? I'll lose everything I hold dear unless I win the lottery."
 
The third week, he comes back to the synagogue/church/place of worship (again delete what offends),
and this time he's really desperate.
"O Lord, this is the third time I've prayed to you to let me win the lottery! I ask and I plead and still you don't help me!"
 
Suddenly a booming voice sounds from heaven...
 
"Benny, Benny, be reasonable. Meet me half way. Buy a lottery ticket!"
 
 
sorry if this offends but I think it is a little amusing
I've given options and if somebody is still offended
ah bollocks, lighten up

Guarder SP110 = M120 Spring, so potential 394fps ???
 
47rps ???
 
I could see you clipping near 27rps on 7.4v,
then maybe 41rps on 11.1v - but 47 is going some,
Though a beefy C LiPo will give you extra zest,
The flip side is the fancy ETU's tend to skim a bit of power,
(each diode nicks 0.5-0.7v, turn on/forward voltage).
 
 
30k ÷ 12.75 (ratio) will give you about 23.5rps,
Squeeze a bit more out on 16awg/deans, shim well about 27rps,
x 1.55 = maybe 42rps & I've smashed a piston at that speed
even though it was short stroked 3 teeth ???
 
So 47rps is going some, perhaps questionable,
given that ETU's skim some juice
& motors should make a difference...
A 30k motor Vs a 18k G&G there will be a difference.
 
Also forget bells & whistles a second...
Set the Titan to do basic stuff, no AB, precock, burst etc...
 
Grab a standard RC power meter,
Plug that in and run a 5sec auto burst on 7.4v,
 
NB 7.4v not 11.1v to check amps on meter in auto,
coz the way the fancy MOSFETs report stuff varies.
 
Yes the surge from still will be 80-90 amps,
But overall the draw over a 5 sec period should,
be below 20, about 17 amp if done well 12:1 30k.
Draw will be lower on higher TPA motor,
But G&G 18k grey will struggle on 7.4v as it's ferrite.
 
The amp draw on 7.4v will be roughly the same as 11 1v,
The amps don't change, but the wattage alters on 11.1v,
Watts = Voltage X Amps 
 
All you are doing is testing the amps on a meter,
without risking smashing the piston at silly speed,
Or excess heat being generated on a high amperage.
 
Get the amps read from a meter on a 4-5 sec auto burst,
Ensure it is below 20amps on a meter reading.
 
Is the sector/gun short stroked ???
Coz SP110 spring is near 400fps
Yes you lose a bit on a 300mm barrel,
But think you are losing some FPS somewhere too,
Coz the gun is losing efficiency it is working more,
on the SP110 or M120 spring unless SS'd 2-3 teeth.
 
And if running inefficiently that 47rps is dubious,
Unless motor is a High Speed one,
Which would explain it a bit along with heat/amps...
 
A number of things don't quite add up to me,
The slightly higher rof on a higher spring,
Lots of heat & killing batteries etc...
Motors not making much of a difference ???
(They should as you have a range of performance)
 
Yeah some stuff ain't quite as it seems to me,
So check the amps on a RC power meter/analyser...
 
Seems like you have used a SHS lightened piston,
so I wonder if the piston is binding quite a bit...
Which would explain some things, heat, amps, some power loss...
Yet this would effect the rps, which is quite high still...
 
So yeah, some things are not quite adding up to me ???

Great - it's bad enough getting people to chrono their guns in time to play
 
Now we will have teenagers/players whinging they can't get a decent signal
so can't head out just yet - gimme a sec, nearly got 1 bar, whoa 4G too..
Oh shit, it's gone again...
hasn't this woodland site got free WiFi or can we not play with better coverage
 

 
meanwhile - SHIT we've been EMP'd or they got a counter UAV...
 
Nope the owner is jamming the mobile signals
coz he is getting fucked off with mobile muppets
piss balling about and holding up next game
 
nah - COD/Fortnite is one thing & peew peew is another

@Sitting Duck she's alive she's alive 
 
Deffo a speed wanker gun on 11.1 without rof adjustment lol 7.4 is still pretty decent aswell

20210316_030101.mp4 VID_24490331_142017_183.mp4 VID_25000807_014440_062.mp4

Great - it's bad enough getting people to chrono their guns in time to play
 
Now we will have teenagers/players whinging they can't get a decent signal
so can't head out just yet - gimme a sec, nearly got 1 bar, whoa 4G too..
Oh shit, it's gone again...
hasn't this woodland site got free WiFi or can we not play with better coverage
 

 
meanwhile - SHIT we've been EMP'd or they got a counter UAV...
 
Nope the owner is jamming the mobile signals
coz he is getting fucked off with mobile muppets
piss balling about and holding up next game
 
nah - COD/Fortnite is one thing & peew peew is another

Like everything I guess...
 
TV's £300 no longer buys you a big ye olde box TV
it no longer buys you a chunky flat screen
but now a wafer thin 50" mofo HD with 4k option a little bit more
 
Sure they aren't Sony, LG's etc... but fuck me they are not that far behind 
 
£60 ~ £70 guns are ergh £60 ~ £70 guns still
but point being the guns now at whatever price tag have improved loads
and like TV's and shit you are getting a lot more better value for money
 
Cheap or cost effective TV's or Cyma's or whatever have made others up their game
 
Some of the slightly better Cyma's like Hi-Speed versions with 13:1's and say a 22tpa
with a basic mosfet for say £35 more than a basic model
represents good value for money as it would cost you that anyway
(so some thought went into these gun model options)
 
Can't comment on the more higher end metal M4's, but expect same applies
 
I rated D-Boys which are Double Bell 416's a few years ago
though at the time the hop was shit clear plastic and they have also made some improvements
and unless you are trademark fan boy, then the D-Boys/Double Bell 416 is a nice cost effective gun
(quite heavy as I own mostly cheapo light plastic guns - it is solid weighty 416 without trades)
 
Double Eagle 904G's they are flogging that at fuck all mark up to make in roads
and shift stuff in bulk to make money - £100 Honey Badger with basic bells & whistles
fuck me, how many of those are gonna show up on game days after lockdown
 
but most stuff & makes have upped their game from a few years ago
you are getting more bang for your buck
(or more higher res pixels for ya dosh)
 
Cyma have just continually upped their game and most importantly
sensibly upped their game making steady improvements bit by bit
to result in a lot of decent sturdy cost effective guns for various budgets
 
But be careful trying to contact Cyma's customer service department
as this is how the conversation might go...
 
 
 
Kidding btw - but still fucking funny

Like everything I guess...
 
TV's £300 no longer buys you a big ye olde box TV
it no longer buys you a chunky flat screen
but now a wafer thin 50" mofo HD with 4k option a little bit more
 
Sure they aren't Sony, LG's etc... but fuck me they are not that far behind 
 
£60 ~ £70 guns are ergh £60 ~ £70 guns still
but point being the guns now at whatever price tag have improved loads
and like TV's and shit you are getting a lot more better value for money
 
Cheap or cost effective TV's or Cyma's or whatever have made others up their game
 
Some of the slightly better Cyma's like Hi-Speed versions with 13:1's and say a 22tpa
with a basic mosfet for say £35 more than a basic model
represents good value for money as it would cost you that anyway
(so some thought went into these gun model options)
 
Can't comment on the more higher end metal M4's, but expect same applies
 
I rated D-Boys which are Double Bell 416's a few years ago
though at the time the hop was shit clear plastic and they have also made some improvements
and unless you are trademark fan boy, then the D-Boys/Double Bell 416 is a nice cost effective gun
(quite heavy as I own mostly cheapo light plastic guns - it is solid weighty 416 without trades)
 
Double Eagle 904G's they are flogging that at fuck all mark up to make in roads
and shift stuff in bulk to make money - £100 Honey Badger with basic bells & whistles
fuck me, how many of those are gonna show up on game days after lockdown
 
but most stuff & makes have upped their game from a few years ago
you are getting more bang for your buck
(or more higher res pixels for ya dosh)
 
Cyma have just continually upped their game and most importantly
sensibly upped their game making steady improvements bit by bit
to result in a lot of decent sturdy cost effective guns for various budgets
 
But be careful trying to contact Cyma's customer service department
as this is how the conversation might go...
 
 
 
Kidding btw - but still fucking funny

Are they going to bring out guns in football team colours or something
trying to drum up support for team games after such a dry few months
 
Then two teams can face off each other and chant...
 
YOOOOOUUUUUURRRRRR SSSSSSHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
 
then row with the ref/marshals...
 
FFS referee are you fucking blind...
(or much much worse)
 
as airsoft has young players in it at times and the importance of playing fair & respectfully
here is a bit of a funny about kids football...
 
*************************************************************************
 
At one point during a game, the coach called one of his 7-year-old football players aside and asked,
“Do you understand what cooperation is? What a team is?
The little boy nodded in the affirmative.
“Do you understand that what matters is not whether we win or lose, but how we play together as a team?”
The little boy nodded yes.
“So,” the coach continued, “I’m sure you know, when a penalty is called, you shouldn’t argue,
curse, attack the referee, or call him a dick head.”
Do you understand all that?”
Again the little boy nodded.
He continued, “And when I call you off the field so that another boy gets a chance to play,
it’s not good sportsmanship to call your coach ‘a dumb arse–hole’ is it?”
Again the little boy nodded.
 
“Good,” said the coach. “Now go over there and explain all that to your mother.”

Are they going to bring out guns in football team colours or something
trying to drum up support for team games after such a dry few months
 
Then two teams can face off each other and chant...
 
YOOOOOUUUUUURRRRRR SSSSSSHHHHIIIIIIIIIIIIIITTTTTTTTTAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
 
then row with the ref/marshals...
 
FFS referee are you fucking blind...
(or much much worse)
 
as airsoft has young players in it at times and the importance of playing fair & respectfully
here is a bit of a funny about kids football...
 
*************************************************************************
 
At one point during a game, the coach called one of his 7-year-old football players aside and asked,
“Do you understand what cooperation is? What a team is?
The little boy nodded in the affirmative.
“Do you understand that what matters is not whether we win or lose, but how we play together as a team?”
The little boy nodded yes.
“So,” the coach continued, “I’m sure you know, when a penalty is called, you shouldn’t argue,
curse, attack the referee, or call him a dick head.”
Do you understand all that?”
Again the little boy nodded.
He continued, “And when I call you off the field so that another boy gets a chance to play,
it’s not good sportsmanship to call your coach ‘a dumb arse–hole’ is it?”
Again the little boy nodded.
 
“Good,” said the coach. “Now go over there and explain all that to your mother.”

good to know, i know voluming tends not to be as sensitive for aeg's but can never remember the forumula.
 
any time i'm changing a cylinder it's always a rummage through the box o' bits followed by "that looks about right"

it's ok man, this place uses 100% recycled pixels

@Sitting Duck - You weren't far off. With a fully charged 7.4, I was getting 750rpm. On a 11.1 it's bumped up to 1200. Which is about perfect for me and doesn't seem crazy fast.

Cheers!

With lame or low speed motors you gotta use 11.1v to get some snap
 
it won't go nutz, just about x 1.55 of what 7.4v speed/rof is
so 11rps on 7.4v will equate to around 17rps on similar spec 11.1v
might nudge 18rps if lucky as high tpa motors spin a bit more on 11.1v
and low tpa motors spin a little less that x1.55 on higher lipo's
 
it is to do with max efficiency/potential of motor being reached on different motors
but general rule of thumb is 11.1v is about 1.55 rof over a 7.4v lipo
 
it is going to be a 27tpa/18k motor in there say
so 11.1v will kick it up to say 28,000rpm
hardly insane rpm - so should be OK
though very fast motors like 40,000+ will spin ultra quick & brushes will wear faster
 
putting more juice/volts through it & higher rpm will cause the brushes to wear a bit more
but 18rps is not too mental imho & you need it somewhere near that as 11rps is too low
when in the thick of it all kicking off
 
and if/when eventually the old stock motor craps out, shove in a better one & 7.4v
 
TL-DR - YOU'LL BE FINE

if all else fails - beginning of April...
Good Friday 2nd April
Easter Sunday 4th April
 
Organise an Easter Bunny/Egg Hunt skirmish - no it's a Egg Hunt (max 30 people)
carry around a few Creme Egg Grenades to chuck at each other
 
Games will vary from Team Egg Match, Capture the Shell etc...
 

 
THAT BUNNY HAS A M4  - YOU LOT ARE PLAYING AIRSOFT !!! (says PC Karen)
 
No officer you are very much mistaken - that is an Arctic Hare with a 249

if all else fails - beginning of April...
Good Friday 2nd April
Easter Sunday 4th April
 
Organise an Easter Bunny/Egg Hunt skirmish - no it's a Egg Hunt (max 30 people)
carry around a few Creme Egg Grenades to chuck at each other
 
Games will vary from Team Egg Match, Capture the Shell etc...
 

 
THAT BUNNY HAS A M4  - YOU LOT ARE PLAYING AIRSOFT !!! (says PC Karen)
 
No officer you are very much mistaken - that is an Arctic Hare with a 249

WTF ???
 

 
Now don't get me wrong, fancy high end shit is all well & good
if you got money falling out of your arse & all that
and some Youtuber's build hose machines almost as big as their fucking ego
 
and yes ultra high parts are manufactured to higher tolerances blah blah blah
and a CNC box owner will obviously say it is the best
(fucking hope so for the money you paid for it)
 
But there is also the classic newbie mistake of slinging in the most expensive parts
without checking how they all fit & operate together
(if you ain't checking = you ain't teching)
 
They sling in stfu bits n bobs - the very best/most expensive bollox
lonex gears or Seigtek for example...
sling it all in and it don't work too well or pretty piss poor
 
But REALLY...
pic again...
 

 
if you don't fucking know which fucking gear goes where
and you need a diagram on the cunting expensive as fuck box to tell where expensive shit goes
then you really should just send it all off to somebody else to build for you imho
 
fuck me - looks like IKEA are making airsoft parts now

if all else fails - beginning of April...
Good Friday 2nd April
Easter Sunday 4th April
 
Organise an Easter Bunny/Egg Hunt skirmish - no it's a Egg Hunt (max 30 people)
carry around a few Creme Egg Grenades to chuck at each other
 
Games will vary from Team Egg Match, Capture the Shell etc...
 

 
THAT BUNNY HAS A M4  - YOU LOT ARE PLAYING AIRSOFT !!! (says PC Karen)
 
No officer you are very much mistaken - that is an Arctic Hare with a 249

No
 
 
 
 
Airsoft has never been “organised”  

I think 650 MP's should lead by example and ensure they are vaccinated
with vaccine passports etc...
 
After all we seem to be heading towards a NO JAB = NO JOB scenario
despite all the BS of "flatten the curve", no need for masks - you must wear a face covering
hang we need to revise how we calculate covid deaths & test cycles
you can spend Christmas... ergh no you can't
we are not planning to introduce passports/vaccines for children etc...
 
All the MP's get jabbed first before they lecture any more
NO JAB = NO JOB
see if they resign or get the vaccine & lead by example (take their chances)
 
 

More and more technical issues, I am definitely cursed.
 
So the King Arms PDW does not like ZCI hop units, couldn't feed a single round.
 
The specna 933 acted funny all day, sounded shit in full auto (as if it was going to jam) so I stuck to semi.
 
Nonetheless I had fun today, the lack of confidence among team members is showing (we have mostly new/inexperienced people now) and we need to sort that out asap.
 
Next Sunday, PDW time (AK if I feel like it and the new high caps actually feed).
 
Meanwhile I need to stock 60° hop rubbers as 50s appear to be too soft for my 933.

it doesn't - it is a case of getting the fucker cycling from still
once it is running it will continue to cycle on full auto
as the thing is running and yu are just keeping it - ergh running
 
from still, especially precocked a little or a lot - yeah you got little or no chance of getting the bastid to move
 
BUT - now on some ye olde v2's they have a copper plate across the selector
and two prongs on switch that get bridged by the plate
however - these two prongs lose some tension over time and the contact from selector plate is not quite 100%
and the first point of contact is in semi - there is no contact in safe and this ye olde extra safety feature
helped to ensure gun can not fire even if safety failed
So no contact on safety, contact begins on semi & stronger contact is made on full auto
yet it was not uncommon to see sporadic or not perfect bridging in semi and added to a gun struggling on semi
 
Now your gun don't have these prongs/plate bollocks but some like cheapo Cyma's still have this crap
 
Yet - though it shouldn't matter on semi or auto - when firing from still, partially pre-cocked
(it is the fucking same shit - stationary gun trying to cycle on a weak lame motor...)
 
you do seem to get marginal more success trying to fire a stalled gun in auto than in semi
you really shouldn't all things considered - if the gun is stalled it is fucking stalled
but on occasions the gun does seems to eventually cycle more in auto than in semi
fuck knows why this is - could be a gun with prongs/plate has better contact
though yours does not have this
it could be the trigger is being an arse & not latching correctly or cut off bollox
yet overall it SHOULDN'T really make a difference from stationary if the gun's stalled
ergh it has stalled and semi/auto should be nigh on same meat different gravy when attempting to fire
 
The reason why you don't wanna chuck loads of money into it
is coz the switch, trigger, cut off lever, selector plate etc.. - all of this is fucking bespoke/weird shit
you can't change the trigger, if the COL wears out being alloy over time - yeah a SHS one won't work
the switch can be replace (often)
 
if all that shit went tits up and you was looking to replace it all then there is the possibility
and I say POSSIBLE option of gutting for a Perun Optical which would do away with a lot of the bespoke shit
HOWEVER - this is a serious investment and likely not worth it unless you really wanted to keep the gun
PLUS - I DO NOT KNOW FOR CERTAIN IF THE PERUN WOULD FIR IN THERE PERFECTLY OK
I think it might - might need a bit of a mod but it is a possible option for desperate Nuprol owners to consider
However only really sad owners might take the plunge of it working with a bit of work if they had trouble sourcing say COL
**** ignore the above bollox about possible UNTESTED Perun upgrade ****
 
It was more a case of explaining what a wank these boxes are if shit hits the fan and bespoke bits n bobs to source
so you got a bit of a qwirky box to say the least - Nuprol ain't the only ones, TomTac boxes use micro switch bollox
and some other makes did too, don't think it was early E&C's but some other might be ZCI and also Arcturas bollox use this crap too I think...
 
http://wmasg.com/uploads/froala/images/articles/1/a018dd57c4c7aeca08b1210a68947c9c.jpg
 
FFS - WHY DO SOME PICS POST & OTHER DON'T...
 

 
though it looks ultra bespoke I do tend to think a perun Optical could be made to work in there
with conventional trigger/selector plate perhaps - but still untested/gamble
and certainly not fucking worth it coz it's a cheap shite knackered looking dog of a gun
(with its own issues on top)
 
anyway - the gun once stalled shouldn't matter if in semi/auto
only firing in auto sometimes brings a little more success than semi - think you can just try like fuck
without the COL/Trigger latch issue in auto than a better continuity thing with motor wiring crap
 
WELL - you are getting there in the looks department
 
 
 

it should be QC spring but has them fucking odd bespoke bastid micro switches
likely with a qwirky trigger dooberry that bends & relatches mofo shit jobs
 
https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/nuprol-spare-part-m-series-replacement-trigger-airsoft-6mm-softair-nsp-dsp-009-30574-p.asp
 
So it is advisable to ensure it has a mosfet in there or you will need to replace the microswitch sooner than later
deans, slap some grease it it, check seals but likely weak motor is looking a little tired...
 
with a tiny budget you could chuck in a cheap mosfet, deans, lube, seals etc...
clean up the motor commutator with fibreglass pen etc...
 
then due to mosfet - run it on 11.1v to get some zest and give it some welly on 11.1v to stop the motor stalling
(admit you would deffo install mosfet on microswitch guns, clean up motor a tiny bit and invest on a lipo - poss 11.1v)
unlikely you will blast past 20rps so no massive danger on lame arse motor until it finally croaks
 
you could be looking at say £10 min if diy mosfet or say £20 if you buy a basic one like perun & bits n bobs
plus LiPo battery or better battery of course
 
YES you could change this and that - new motor & all that
but that is throwing more money at it than perhaps it is worth in its present state
(and it is a Nuprol with qwirky switch/trigger - well it is a Nuprol)
 
with its possible micro switch dooberry bollocks - you do not wanna boost the juice as is atm
Nuprol's get a LOT of flack - but their biggest weak point is that switch
you will be replacing it often if you run on 9.6v or 11.1v due to arcing at contacts
(you will then get ripped off with buying a NUPROL switch, which is just a std microswitch of same spec)
 
if these companies put it a tiny bit more thought into the design/build - a £5 mosfet or 50p diode (perhaps)
then the switches will last longer (especially micro switches - the hint is in the micro bit)
Then put in a slightly better built motor - still ferrite to keep costs down but one that is assembled
with better tolerances & efficiency, run it on 9.6v or 11.1v as it has mosfet/diode and everyone is happy
 
but nope - they like most companies slap it all together in a Chinese sweat shop cutting corners
and some shit is worse than others for durability
 
but yeah in its present state you don't wanna go nutz on money/servicing/upgrading it
just general basics and mosfet of some description I would look to
maybe a schottky diode across motor but unsure how well the micro switch would hold up long term 11.1v
But it is a bit of a mess atm ( no offence )
so really a cheap-skate bodge and re-slap it back together is probably all I'd do too
or at least until it croaks a bit - then consider any options & stuff
 

exactly what @Sitting Duck says, don't throw too much money on it.  Those micro-switches ain't the greatest so if you can fit a basic fet on one (think I saw a guide to fitting one somewhere).  You have to open it up first to see what the issue is first..
 
I think I've got an old factory deformed stock tube somewhere together with an old stock that you can have for the price of p+p.  I'll check around.

when you say it would barely shoot do you mean she was struggling to cycle?
 
in which case i'd start at the battery and work towards the motor as either the motor is too weak or it's not being fed enough juice.
 
in terms of range/accuracy it's a multi step process, but a new hop rubber/nub to lift heavier ammo and some air seal work is gonna be your best bang for buck.
 
that will mean cracking her open though.