Sitting Duck

looks similar to onlybbguns - they do love their blue stuff and only do 2-tone stuff btw

chucked in a cheapo alloy set 18:1 needed loads of shims but nice, done aoe on stock piston/cyl head etc.... (no fet yet - hey that rhymes) put back the "powerful motor" G&G motor in there connected up a 11.1v/12v and let rip...... Wow - that motor does seem a bit more grunt that stock 18000 G&G one lets give her some abuse n see what for..... oooooppppssss then cheapo gears didn't last long think they just stripped - kicka$$ quality src gears (this happened before pushing cheapo thin teeth alloy/tin gears so I know they are boned) no tappet/nozzle movement - zzzzz yup sector not going - gears shagged ahhh well didn't they last but 18:1 deffo better than 23:1 ordered 5 lots of SHS / A&K 18:1 from gunfire + a few other bits to get free shipping (aprox £8 a set with a 11% discount code atm - that is my lot until new year (hopefully)) think I might change my avatar to Frank Spencer at this rate 2 motors I was on about the standard is in Raider & CM18 (bushings & 18:1 gears - checked & Raider S is also 18:1) the powerful shiny one was in the lame FireHawk with torque 23:1 gears & bearings etc.... So if OP's lame FH was like mine - shiny power motor, philip head screws 23:1 gears then a change of gears & fet would see him right unsure how brilliant bearings would be in ultra-whippy rps setup but yeah think if anybody gets a new "lamer" FH - then all you need is say a 18:1 or 16:1 gear set in there chaps (still pi$$ poor AOE & piston ring seal but most stock guns are like this and can fix when fitting gears)

small update - she lasted 3/4 of the day...... motor height screw kept undoing a little bit - looked ok but guess when hammered she thought about unwinding a bit on full auto with 11.1v (need some thread glue - oh well...) kind of limp along with her going nuts and pushing her - jeez went through some ammo.... Finally fet decided to quit - a pcb based fet and think was getting too hot and some contacts started to crack/unsolder - still works but only if you squeeze fet a bit No doubt the basic fet would be ok on standard setup I reckon but on this gun I am pulling loads of juice on hi-speed motor Ah well - was hoping gbox was gonna die and then I was gonna fit the proper silent cyl head but as box seems ok still no point opening her up just yet as is running ok mechanically Ah well just ordered a load of 3034 mosfets + some bits to put together my own mosfet (may look into a small heatsink - pc mem stick spreader or something if it really needs it) not bothering with another P-Mosfet for braking just yet - hoping I might get away with it as it seemed to not over-spin much even at hi speed - just need a better fet like 3034 (it is highly regarded as one of the best fets out there - so we shall see) Yet more breaking stuff & learning - good fun all the same

Just opened my std FH expecting to see same CM gbox as CM18..... nope - first thing is FH has philip screws not allen key ones - no biggy next thing FH has 8mm bearings in - CM18 had bushings - oohh might not be ideal for 30+ rof another thing I noticed and would explain pi$$ poor rof..... Torquey gear set ffs - reckon about 23:1 instead of usual 18:1 double bollox ffs A very rough ballpark way to estimate ratio.... see how many turns of bevel gear it takes to do 1 full cycle then multiply by 3...... in this case it is about 7.75 turns on bevel - 23.25 !!!!! this does work out about right - 6.25 = 18.75 and just over 4 on a nutty 12:1 set of gears So that has pi$$ed on my firehawk firework a bit with 23:1 Vs the other 18:1 ratio I will be way off hit 31+ rof instead be at 24 I think I have worked out even with fet & high speed motor so the CM18 will have a higher rate of fire Damn it - was expecting a quick install of spring silent head with proper matching cylinder head whack a mosfet in there and be going nuts blowing peeps (and the life of the gbox too) Not really got a quality steel 18:1 set to hand either so unsure what way to go now might just shove a new spring & normal piston with better seal & leave rest stock or spend weekend trying other crap & short stroke Damn you G&G - even stuck 2 different G&G motors in there though think FH is a tad more oomphy (little bit more resistance when turning motor by hand compared to CM18 motor) Bloody hell - that is 4 things different on these 2 G&G's - only about £10-£15 difference but the box is very differently put together - what was gonna be a couple of hours is now a couple of days if get parts not a happy chappy ducky but if the OP's gears were like mine - quite likely then that would deffo explain why latest FH's rof suck

or using ultra high melt temp solder from poundland no flux etc....... (yeah that cheapo welding solder is not good - time that melts everything is too) decent solder + flux makes a massive difference - really helps years ago I wrecked a couple of consoles using bad cheapo soldering stuff kinda welded bits together, melted bits and components just coming off At a push when soldering connectors - push both halves together then tape the block firmly to table if you don't have any "helping hands" device The two halves helps to keep each other straight & aligned when doing tiny little pcb connectors there is a risk of the tiny pins getting too hot and melting out of alignment Tin the ends of connector - if solder not taking and/or no flux paste then scratch/key the contact to give the area a chance for solder to take - wire & deans tinned - it will then stick like $hit to a blanket Always cut & solder 1 wire at time - cut both and BANG you may get a shock & dead lipo Decent iron (say 25w), solder, flux really helps - you don't need more than a 30w unless you like welding the rest is technique and setup - practice on an old pcb if doing internal electronics... (the above would of saved me a lot of stress & mistakes - but all part of learning "fun") LOL - typed most of the above but just watch vid and same sorta thing well except screw heatgun & just use a lighter at end on heatshrink he used a 40w iron but I only got one general type which kind of does me ok (he has lower fine tip one and workshop etc...) same sort thing - we all use slightly different techniques/methods some find they don't really need flux but many will say it really helps and use it anyway to each their own as they say If you have a choice look out for some "ribbed" deans connectors tiny little ribs that will help if changing battery quickly when you wearing gloves or sweaty hands etc... yup think that is about it from me on this

welcome sir - if ya like it get out there skirmish (meet new people - and shoot them) Get UKARA'd and get some more toys - slightly better ones if you not great at skirmishing like me then nothing beats getting one of the guns working again (even if you broke 6 others getting there) yup give the kids the lower end stuff (eye protection is a must btw) play with the better stuff like Umarex G36 and all that Alas the cheaper stuff like Black Viper G36 is very similar to Umarex one but is not designed to come apart as easily - kinda repairable/upgrade but is about £60 Umarex is about £100+ and a more "proper" one that is easier to maintain (open up and work on) Viper and other cheapo's are plastic gearbox not metal gearbox's - motor that came out of train set - you get idea (mainly back garden shooting and chuck when they break - but can be repaired if ya really need to) Yup I waffle the most on here...... Get out there - skirmish - get ukara - buy some decent stuff easily and cheaply once ukara'd don't cost much - unless like me you just keep buying - yeah if ya get the airsoft bug it can be very infectious welcome anyway m8

Along with I have so much still to learn

AAaaaaarrrrrrrrrggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhh wtf have they done ?????? http://airsoftzone.co.uk/starter-packs/starter-pack-deal-with-fire-hawk-m4-carbine-with-crane-stock-bright-green-aeg-gng mind you not bad starter pack - plus put a crane stock on it too for easier battery but guys - think blue would be a little less "last season" (plus bet the VS02 stock was worth a few quid) think their starter packs in CM18 & FH are good - but why CM18 starter is £25 extra & FH starter is £30 extra damn must stop browsing - must resist urge to buy...

Your last cutting disc snaps - usually not anymore - bought a few packs of 20 or so discs - 60+ I got cheapo fleabay SilverLine discs so even when it snaps as I nearly finish cutting - I think.... Pah - there's plenty more where that came from mofo (hacksaws - pah I got 59 discs & ain't afraid to use them - crap 58 now)

damn Ian & Chock very very nearly bought some bits for Mrs Duck (when a woman says she isn't fussed about xmas pressie that me sounds like she would love an AK) very nearly bought a big big box but luckily they didn't take paypal and now sense has started to kick in (or Mrs Duck would of kicked me in - but get New Year over and to hell with resolutions of spending less) Good little buy there Chock All I have on the way is some various wire for fet experiments A proper silent cylinder head + cheap basic TBB (HelmetWorld) few pistons (unbroken atm) - pair of armoured claw gloves from Gunfire + something I can't remember another SHS hi-speed motor - fleabay but dunno when it will arrive maybe one or two other bits but gotta stop this airsoft malarky - family want dinning table back for xmas dinner (makes a great worktable but pi$$es family off a bit)

WTF ??? - what is with yanks & shipping ffs (I know they joined WW2 a bit late but didn't realise the reason was they got lost coming over ffs) Well lets hope the Kiwi guy ordered a nice PolarStar or something then for your chrimbo pressie Jeeeez - think I stick to shopping in Poland & China from now on

will this be any good then ?? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Picatinny-Rail-Mount-Base-for-Marui-AK-47-74-Series-Airsoft-AEG-/281382374634?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item4183b24cea dunno if you got the screws underneath or if you need to fit a mounting base plate for the Quick fit/detach mount most TM style AK's will usually take the above though some may need a bit of diy if front handguard catches rail mount (where the two meet on the side of receiver - got one that I gotta cut/file a bit if fitting to a RPK type)

That's good to know about quick refund - mine from Evike took a few days but alls well in the end If ya gonna order something in New Year don't wait too long - coz then you got Chinese New Year and nigh on EVERYTHING stops for about a week to 10days (few days either side) good result - even if ya won't be getting ya pressie in time for chrimbo

http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/23008-franken-ak-build-opinions-needed/?hl=+cyma%20+scope most stuff "may" need a tweak but nothing too major really once you got mount sorted then the type of scope if ya bothered about genuine looks.... http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/23524-ak-optic/?hl=%2Bcyma+%2Bscope#entry170032

think the rails and the rear sight being set so forward is what puts a lot of peeps off the AK (apart from being not on the modern looking side) still a good - no brilliant AEG, and will get around to making something up somehow in future hence so many people wanna see a more modern AK12 arrive perhaps but for now most peeps will have to do a little DIY for some models/makes some say you can fit this or that scope on AK - to hell with that serious themed authentic look it is classic bit of cheapo engineering that has stood for ages and know there are loads of abominations out there from this "can't find hammer - use the AK instead to hit it with"

slightly off topic but just got full refund from Evike so even though they weren't brilliantly fast shipping At least I got a full refund without hassle - shame it is so close to Xmas or I could wait. Still at least I might go shopping stateside in New Year either back at Evike or at AGI now

Mosfet are not a MUST but are very highly recommended to save switch, response etc..... (ooh look at me - no expert as just seen first time ever the improvements myself) Dedsec hasn't fitted one just yet http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24384-upgrades-for-my-barrel-hop-up-unit-and-spring-on-my-vfc-hk416/#entry178411 and I admit if my gun hadn't broke last weekend I probably still be running her without one (Ahem - changes voice to impersonate an old american gospel preacher man spreading the news.....) But now I have seen the light and can see for myself the true meaning of real true snappiness in our airsoft world my brothers & sisters Can't I get an Amen from ya all my dearly beloved AAAAAAMMMMMEEEEEEEEEENNNNNNN !!!!!!!!!!!!!! Yeah now join with me... - OK I SHUT UP NOW (you get the idea - think its time for my medication pills)

There are 2 main side mounts that place a rail over cover One is a TM "screw on type" and another is Quick Fit mounting used on SVD's & other types So you need to check if you have the base mount for QF or if you can bolt the first type on there There is a bolt on top cover rail but is mainly used for Cyma 039's type AK's - bolts at back of receiver/stock (it isn't designed for most other AK's without some modification) All the above mounts will be a pain if your battery is in top cover coz very likely you need to remove or loosen the rail when changing battery if inside top cover - major bollock ache Another possible option is this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Dovetail-to-Weaver-Adapter-Picatinny-Rail-100mm-Length-Scope-Mount-/121487366176?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item1c49361820 note it is curved underneath - most are not but this is curved like AK top cover I don't think it is 101% perfect matching contour but is close with a little rubber/gasket it could work Now you still need to drill/dremmel some "bumps" off top cover and still mess about but quite oftenthe AK rail or mounts will need a bit of work to get them to fit if your AK is not the exact model they were made for I have those weaver mount rails and deffo think it is do-able for my AK but admit I haven't got round to it yetpaid a bit more from China for mine - so they are worth considering if you feel confident in a bit of AK DIY or as you probably won't get them this side of New year now a more local place could be: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-Slot-Small-Weaver-Picatinny-Rail-suits-many-shooting-airsoft-applications-/171319824867?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item27e37511e3 £5:40 as opposed to say £2:40 - about £3 more but at least you could get it quicker put dremmel/drill/file and extra nuts+bolts on ya list and you have a little AK bit of meccanno to play with over xmas

agree with Chock & Sappy but then I only buy the cheaper end stuff too (mostly coz I'm still breaking/learning and have a long way to go) I say cheaper end stuff but have learnt a little as to what is decent and what is total $hit G&G CM's - being plastic don't bother me one bit as they are so well constructed and I'm hardly an experienced professional player - I'm crap but I play for fun I mean to be honest if you want range then out of that £400 then consider a crappy: CYMA AK 28 - wooaaahh before Ian rips me a new one Seriously - shoot an AK even a budget one - I love M4's they are so ergonomic rails etc.... But that slapped together pile of bits ugly looking cack-handed designed terrorist weapon AK deserves some respect on airsoft terms that ugly mofo can wipe the smug grin off the CM owners faces: 600 or mental 1k mags for it plus in case you think its all about spray n prey Longer barrel - 455mm which may give you the edge for longer range accuracy BEFORE ANYONE STARTS QUOTING THIS DOES NOT GUARANTEE ........ yup I know but it can certainly help and is not not uncommon for CM Raiders - even Long version being taken out by that ugly mofo thingy up there (I'm talking about out of box btw) Besides it is not all about the gun, though it can help - but also the player themselves Some of the few skilled players I've seen could kick my a$$ with a JBBG in their hand That is another reason I'll stick with lower end guns - if I get owned by a 2-toner I can still blame my budget gun dry firing rather than me being crap at skirmishing (not really I am crap at this shooting malarky but I do have a laugh than take it too serious) I am, waffling yet again - OP can buy what they like and yup it would be nice to have a pukka quality gun but I have a long long way to go before I feel I really need a higher end gun to have "fun" with

Hi & welcome - bit late but welcome anyway.... G&G - one of best brands to start with - think nigh on all will agree (yup there are some others but you won't go wrong with G&G) CO2 pistol - that maybe a bit hot - over 350 limit but the other type Green Gas should be ok (Co2 with fresh bulb can be hitting 450fps GG about 360 - but they start to come down & settle after few shots) Or Electric or AEP like Cyma Glock CM030 - but only hits about 200fps TBH - pistol can wait - get a decent G&G primary and some boots + eye protection and see how ya go my local TWA Surrey are running 2 Saturday's in a row 13th + 20th and hope to go to both beats xmas shopping - sorry Mrs Duck gotta take junior otherwise I'd love to walk round shops with ya

cheers for that I got the ASG version piston head from LWA as a freebie points thing a while back I got a matching v3 AK cyl head as I was looking to use it in an AK type DMR kinda looked at silent coz of it doing AOE as is but my "that will do" SRC head let me down I should of got this: http://www.patrolbase.co.uk/airsoft-piston-piston-cylinder-heads/asg-ultimate-cylinder-head-v2.htm#.VIXvxMkknIU deffo more sorbo/rubber on outer ring than the SRC one and no doubt it would be a perfect seal/fit so maybe will look about & grab one ready to put in there next time she plays up hopefully claw back of the missing fps atm it is still better fps wise than it was @ 300fps can take it anywhere even the 328 sites... fires like hell compared to old stock setup (shs motor, fet deans etc....) both me & duckling - my thieving tea leaf son will nick her back (he is happy now hitting 30rps but said keep it at 24 on 10v) fps is not the ultimate be all & end all but maybe if spring starts to lose its tension will drop 110 or maybe look out for proper head or set or just use conventional piston/cylinder heads with sorbo...... Hmmm those options I may do on either other CM18 or CM FH This rof is on stock 18:1 stock gears and think it is a safe option to obtain better rof Than use a silly hi-speed gear set like 12:1 and maybe run risk of pre-engagement plus 12:1 strain on stock motor so may require new hi-torque motor anyway Yup will give her a good stress test next weekend and if she still works then maybe will start putting together some bits I want for chrimbo..... Dear Santa, I have been a very good boy.... Well most of the time I was very goo.... I really tried to be kind and go...... Ok I did intend to be goo Oh f**k it - tell ya what Santa - maybe I will just buy my own presents this year

I fell out of the ugly tree, hit every branch on the down and then got run over by a no 10 bus S London, Surrey Kent borders - but my skirmish bit tells ya that anyway

it was a brass concave cylinder head used or one that looked like one: "yup sure enough it is longer piston head - ok lets use a silent or silent looking brass 2 o ring cyl head too (using a flat cylinder head seemed too much spacing for AOE it seemed)" it came out of a SRC v2 - deffo concave type but noted it wasn't a 101% perfect fit on the concave's contours (not bad but deffo not perfect moulding so to speak - but then I am too fussy with mega OCD thrown in too) think I was expecting only 10 drop but maybe if I had a perfect matching silent head then I may got 340ish Think also barrel length is on the borders of one or two ports and that can make a difference if it isn't matched up But hey - it is working - so far (damn that is just tempting fate saying that) Have pushed her a bit and deffo with fet & 16awg I can see the improvement in rof & response (27rps nearly on just hi speed motor last week & now getting near 32 on fresh 11.1v lipo with fet n wires) that works out at about 17% increase - maybe some might be from 20g piston - think snapped piston was about 23g lets see how she goes - if crap in a few games then m110 in there soz for yet another epic long winded tale - but just posting my findings and all that

soz for slight ranty ramblimgs - i know I talk bollox 99.999% of time. I also may have not perfect grammar too and like I said either here or on my Silent AOE posting - even I find it hard to understand the $hit I type hence pic of my external fet wire shows what I was rambling on about soz again coz I'm starting to ramble once more

Nope - soz I can't see how that will matter As long as the the 2 positive 16awg wires are joined/soldered together to ensure the final supply is in 16awg then it wouldn't matter if a tiny thin "spur" wire is taken off this joint or if it was all joined at switch terminal The switching of fet requires a tiny tiny amount of juice there is virtually hardly any real drain on the fet being triggered in fact the only real problem is when the motor switches on taking a large load - but this happens whatever way you wire the switch circuit - just 1 wire#4 or with dedicated new wires #4+5 As long as the 2 positive wires are joined as best as they can be it matters not if you take a spur off to switch in household terms - this "spur" is in effect just going to power a tiny nightlight so it would NOT HAVE TO be in 2.5mm twin/earth Before anyone says my DIY sucks - for obvious reasons I would run any spur socket in 2.5mm twin earth in case somebody tries to run a kettle on say a 1.0mm cable - I was just trying to give an example of how 16awg at switch is not a must have or if you run the other diagram with dedicated 4+5 then they can be in 24awg - maybe even 26awg at a push the switching of the fet really needs next to nothing - however when it does trigger then the Negative output DOES NEED 16awg that one negative line is the main drain and is in 16awg - also the Negative supply to fet's circuit must be in 16awg of course but the fet's positive supply is not that critical to be in thicker wire But agree it should be be sufficient enough and above all the insulation should be in perfect condition The Motor needs 16awg and that is it - the trigger - either side of it does not like in wires 4+5 can be quite thin and see no reason how a 24awg spur will cause more resistance as long as them 16awg's are joined correctly (and insulated of course coz that is some mofo current there)