Sitting Duck

I think if you know your gun you can get away without anything protecting it (you would know if it didn't feel/sound right and have sense not to hold trigger down) or sense the grip is getting f*cking warm or warmer than usual But most of us like to think there is something there to limit any possible damage though think I have had more than just one fuse blow and nowt is wrong when new fuse fitted (they can be a pain tripping out if too low fuse in there some have 10a, 20a or 30a on some fet blade fuse) and if fuses blow often people put in a higher fuse "just to see" not too bad on gun but do that crap in house and you may regret shoving a 13a fuse in TV plug (5a) or lamp (3a) Totally understand peeps saying they prefer fuse in there but OP has fet with better fuse built in and might be tight on room so think he is well ok to remove it in this case & like I said there are some tiny basic fets with built in thermal fuse so can do away with fuse in MP5 if he wants to fit those fets

Well I have bought a few RIF's from them and never had a problem (I was ukara'd so didn't need 2-tone) Others have had trouble but then I had problems with LWA but I have still bought stuff recently there Think if you want a RIF painted you will always run into possible trouble it may have been a mis-understanding or maybe they couldn't be ar$ed as most are winding down now On top of that - at certain times the popular models can be tricky to come by in stock G&G Raider's were a little thin on ground over summer and think certain types/models are sold out at some places now Anyway - it don't matter guy ordered his gun so hopefully he will get it asap for new year skirmish so lets hope all's well that ends well Ho Ho Ho & all that crap

yeah wouldn't of thought they held much stock already 2-toned G&G so maybe they said if you want it now then need ukara they got some cyma & ICS in clear/black 2-tone but doubt if G&G is already painted to go hence they may have said this & ya girl not quite understood exactly what they meant anyway I'm sure it was a kind of misunderstanding to be fair

that is f*cking weird - do them for discrimination ffs is she could prove she was 18 then there is no reason why she should not be able to buy a 2-tone toy gun ffs clear one is still 2-tone so she should be able to buy it off shelf unless for some bollox reason they try n say they reserve the right not to sell not a good "customer is always right" example if she could provide id f*ck it, I would of took my business elsewhere if I or anybody I know was treated like that you get one chance to impress in this retail world and they f*cked it if it is how you say

if space is a major issue then you could look at a silly size basic fet with its own thermal fuse much cheaper than do everything Gate one and still throw away fuse coz you got thermal one built in for silly money

yup have to be 18 to legally buy from retailer - even 2-tone RIF requires defense/ukara & 18 or over can be "gifted" eg: ukara parent to their kid but that pretty much sums up UK Airsoft so as long as you are 18 you can buy a 2-tone IF IF = Imitation Firearm - 2-tone is IF not RIF RIF = Realistic Imitation Firearm - eg:black M4 or pistol 2-tone does NOT need ukara/defense - just be over 18 as its IF your heading RIF threw me a bit - RIF needs ukara IF or 2-tone does NOT need ukara

old school fuses are not needed if using fet with thermal resetting fuse they just add resistance I have read and in some cases people remove them anyway though you should have some of protection..... but if fet has thermal then I really can't see why you need it unless you like a bit of warmth in cold weather (nice fet - ordered one at nearly £50 a while back but was out of stock so refunded and not tried one yet)

spring guide is perhaps if you are taking to the next level as it didn't come with one I will fit one when I open another up to do fet n motor malarky next time gonna order stuff early in new year - get xmas over with but before you know it it will be Chinese New Year and nowt happens for over a week in far east so I best remember to order up sooner rather than later and forget again see how ya go - silent pistons & heads I'm still unsure about - they deffo don't add extra punch imho and stock stuff is ok just needs a little tweak here n there really blimey you go too mad and you will blow over £50 on each gun - ffs its just a toy mrs duck says No - its MY toy gun I say - you go & buy yet ANOTHER pair of shoes/bag/stuff for crying out loud soz to OP - gatecrashing his gun thread - still nice gun though

cylinder head is fine - bit of plumbers tape wrapped round it to ensure good seal nozzle get a shs red m4 nozzle - there 2 types:1 has 1 o-ring nozzle other has 2 o-rings either will do: 1152195485 = single o-ring 1152200427 = 2 o-ring nozzles piston & head are ok but get a couple of piston o-rings coz green G&G one on piston is $hit seal sorbo pad - maybe 2 on cylinder head if you wanna do AOE self adhesive rubber washers M4 20mm ebay# 250981193606 will do the trick 2nd tooth on stock piston is already removed - cheers G&G may need to shave a bit off 3rd tooth - this will lose a little fps coz piston isn't travel so far but a must if you go further at some stage with motor gears fet etc....... Good seals will cancel out any slight loss from doing AOE btw and if not then new spring will more than boost it way back up to what it should be shs m100 spring or Element M105 if your site is 350 limit (about £4) about £15 if source it on fleabay + some grease & common sense & take ya time that should put some kick back in her and if greased & gears/shim are good then you can go further at a later stage - but will be running much more efficient even from new One final thing is a possible bearing spring guide like SHS-037 the G&G piston doesn't have bearing on it and when tweaking/modding it is wise to fit something to reduce spring twisting - if fitted to piston then it adds weight when most want a lighter piston for hi rof setup - mostpeople I think go for spring guide bearing than piston - though some do both admit I haven't done this yet but will be ordering some SHS-037's in new year myself (piston bearings can crumble/disintegrate/undo if not fitted correctly and thread seal glue) yeah I'll just use a bearing spring guide for now & see how it goes Oh and mega mega thanks to Samurai: Stick a little round earth magnet under the AR latch when opening & refitting box back together bloody amazing trick to get that f*cking AR bastid to stay put cheers sir at least I only need 3 hands now to close a gearbox

Everything comes at a price generally speaking...... Your box has a life of X shots before it needs service/rebuild Low ratio or high speed gears that mean higher rof - in a nut shell you will hit that fig X quicker In true terms your box will quite likely crap out a little before it hits X as running faster would imply more heat/wear You can't just shove hi speed gears in and expect cheap stock motor to pull it easily - or at very least at bit more strain even with higher volts (more heat generated in stock wiring), a stock motor probably won't easily shift high speed 13 or 12:1 (if it does then I'd say the stock ferrite motor's balls will just drop off real soon/burn out/refuse to budge) Like a car when you start upgrading things you find you need to also upgrade quite a few bits in the end.... Luckily - G&G do build their $hit well - they radius the front of cylinder area on box which is supposed to help absorb the shock of piston BUT - like most low/med end stuff it is just quickly assembled & not even running at full stock potential: AOE isn't done (2nd tooth is removed but I snapped a piston just by throwing in hi speed motor & no AOE) Nozzle has no O ring and piston seal along with cylinder head wasn't great either. So if your gun starts to show signs of losing power say under 300fps then those few stock improvements can really help As well as all springs lose power over time so new m100 or m105 can be fitted, check shims grease etc.... If the owner feels confident or thinks wtf I'll have a go like me On most guns it will pay dividends - but just recently discovered the lame CM FH made matters worse How come - yup box is running sweet on a "normal" barrel but on a 120mm barrel the cyl/barrel ratio is out never mattered before coz is was pi$$ poor seals etc but now it is way out or rather way over 1.8 ratio I get 340fps on M4 but same box on 120mm barrel I get 270pfs yup need to put in a MP5K cylinder with ports halfway or bore it myself (will try n hack a full type 0 cylinder first) The above is an extreme rare example - the blue cylinder port is fine for short raider 233 to 275 on cm18 btw so by just checking seals, new spring and perhaps AOE will help box run much more efficiently. That will give you more fps and help with range if hop/barrel is all good Won't give you more rof but will help it loads and greased up will last longer running stock setup If you chuck in a more powerful motor to increase torque speed rof etc.... then if you stay in single figures you may get away without a fet but then using fet will save contacts & help response and a tiny bit more efficiently Most higher speed/torque motors are neodym magnets as opposed to ferrite (spin motor - stock motor can turn easy - ferrite but high torque won't budge much coz stronger neodym magnets) You should not really need a braking fet for a neo motor - ferrite yes at higher volts neo not really Reason being the stronger neo magnets will slow motor very quickly once voltage stops ferrite will roll onwards and can double fire on higher volts so people use braking to stop motor but reverse polarity generates a fair amount of heat itself so don't use it and just use normal single fet on a neodym motor as long as you don't too mental though on higher speed gears the chance of double feed increases coz of ratio bevel to sector gear Hence reason for me sticking to stock 18:1 gears on hi speed motor (6 turns of bevel = 1 sector turn compared to just 4 bevel gear turns - 1 sector rotation on 12:1) Torque motors "usually" turn a little bit slower rof but not much say 30 vs 26 on a SHS high torque but some others are just that torque with not so great increase in rof over stock say 20ish over stock 15 rps Before people get too carried away with all this - the real M4 only fires at 15/16rps I think Whoa soz - waffling again and I have still $hitloads to learn but just keep breaking stuff and learning is giving me a buzz atm If when ya gun starts to lose its oomphy mojo then check a few things and get it running sweet on stock is my lame nooby advice to most Then if you got it running nice you can go nutz gradually like motor and/or fet etc...... trying to chuck in higher gears/motor and loads of volts without a bit of care & basic tweaks will just mean it goes bang very quickly (3 broke pistons, 2 sheared crappy gear sets so far) In the end it is nice to get a gun running bloody quick but then you don't have to push silly volts through it if you don't want to and can just go easy on the juice and still have a better setup gun than stock when you are done Hop/barrel sorted & I am ready to own the field - ergh nah I am still $hit at this airsoft stuff but at least my gun is performing better - even if I am still $hit

nice build and even just using 7.4v will ensure you can still give them hell if you so wish note to me: avoid worthing/sussex as I may get owned (well more than usual)

Jeez - out of interest what is that 40+ ??? SSG - 12 or 13:1 hi speed gears & beefy motor or did ya go nutz on DSG build... I got to 30+ on stock 18:1 & hi speed motor using 11.1v but most likely will perhaps stick with either: 20 on 7.4v lipo or 25 on 9.6v nimah or 9.9v life That is more than fast enough in my book, to try & make her last a bit may just stay around that & use speed or slightly lower rate if using hi torque motor just made me own fet - bit rough on the layout/routing wires but don't matter as its first attempt & still room in stubby stock for the fet & lipo Congrats on ya build sir, hope she lasts a while sounds amazing to me - congrats once again

if you have money to burn..... http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-weapons-c38/electric-rifles-c45/ma5-assault-rifle-pre-order-due-jan-feb-2015-p4199?utm_source=36_The_Halo_Assault_Rifle_Exclusively_at_LWA&utm_medium=email&utm_term=977_http%3A%2F%2Fwww.landwarriorairsoft.com%2Fairsoft-weapons-c38%2Felectric-rifles-c45%2Fma5-assault-rifle-pre-order-due-jan-feb-2015-p4199&utm_campaign=36_The_Halo_Assault_Rifle_Exclusively_at_LWA

ignore - I fitted wrong spring in there it seems damn it

keep silicone away from bucking barrel yes - hop/bucking no though it is said you need to look at cleaning rod Some rods have a mark on them to indicate on jam/cleaning rod where you go up to so you don't damage bucking if unblock/cleaning barrel Silicone good for barrel but if it gets on bucking then your bucking will need clean in warm soapy water (can't get "back spin" like in pool/snooker if bucking is dirty/greasy/polished) Order up a few buckings - eg: clear silicone + red/blue/black 65-70 rubber for general use can't hurt to have a couple spare imho as such a tiny often overlooked thing can much such a difference (we take it for granted when it all is running well - may look fine but tiny tiny bit of wear can throw it out loads) At very least maybe inspect/clean bucking - see how that goes - or fit a new one see if anybody else got any ideas - coz I am just a trainee apprentice noob with so much still to learn

Think silicone bucking is "supposed" to be better in colder weather but it "may" wear quicker - but silicone is thought to be better in real cold This time of year when getting near zero-ish all stuff can be affected - bucking, piston O-ring heck don't forget people having problems with gas guns & seals - so fps can drop in the cold I'm sure Ian can give a much more detailed account of air temps etc.... Perhaps ask some of the Scotts what bucking they use - they would know more about cold (if Scottish summer gets above freezing that is heatwave up there - kidding chaps) think another bucking might help - the other guns may be in better condition or slightly softer see what others say coz I still know f*ck all really

is why I said what gun has OP been using or used to said it was OP's choice but merely pointed out a few considerations that was all (first gun, ease of parts, general use or ergonomics all day peek left etc....) Not saying you can't peek left with L85 but I think OP is not ultra experienced btw would think f*ck this for a game of soldiers trying to peek left on a cqb site etc... If there was one gun for all but alas there is not even if there was peeps would still want something different to not follow heard Suffice to say many - myself included use the "common" guns yup got L85 - 2 in fact (just cheap Army Armament R85's btw not G&G or ICS) but prefer the "everybody has one" M4 myself - but like I said to each their own Yes if at all possible pop into shop and try to hold a weapon to get feel of it Heck what do ya think dead zone or half time is for - chat & try another player's gun All are good ways to really see if you really can "get on" with it If you can't hold one and try it out then you are kind of guessing what you might be ok with Hence I only offered my findings and suggestions - they are just my personal suggestions they are not gonna be everybody's cuppa tea but in "general" think most will be ok for 1st gun

OP says he mainly plays woodland with a little bit of cqb reckon instead of L85 get say AK or M4 and then if he wants get a G36c JG or Cyma type for cqb if main gun is too big That way for around same price as L85-ish he has 2 guns for 2 play styles which in any case is a spare should main gun go pear shape on him if OP has been playing - what guns has he got used to ??? L85 could have advantage for range but AK would also over G36c or M4 I know peeps have gone cqb with L85 but think I'd prefer something else End of the day it is up to OP but going on what they said I think I would: M4 or AK for woods G36c for cqb if ya main gun is a little long for tight turns etc.... (or cqb stubby M4 or going with Ian's dark side option.... could get AK 028u or similar and have possible one that does both sites but that means you have no spare/backup gun if it plays up quite likely at some point - pistol is an option but not in main gun fight

yup that figures on what most of us have thought... get a really good one out for reviews even if they lose a bit in cost/manufacturing then the first batch sells out like hot cakes around Easter time Next batch arrives in July - some was still TopTech but most normal CM (have both versions bought in summer from a couple of places) Most peeps wouldn't notice 15 Vs 20 rof very much unless you compared side by side May open the TT version in the new year as spring has lost a bit of punch (just under 300 now) Still a nice sexy gun - everybody comments on her & that is before you fire the loud 8itch Though it is a shame, the lamer CM18 can beat the TT version with a few upgrades but sneaky G&G could of told us about this... They said at launch they where gonna be releasing an even faster one by end of year I think they did TT version for launch and decided to leave it at that coz they got enough problems with TopTech's mosfet's failing they probably thought best not It is still a nice gun even in its CM spec and high fps & rof is not be all & end all (I'm still crap at airsoft no matter what gun I am packing) Finally it is worth remembering that in "General" terms - I mean this as it says btw A gun has a limited life of XXXX shots before fail/rebuild So it is not untrue to say the more shots or faster you fire The sooner your gun will reach the XXXX shots !!!!! (yes higher spec guns should be built a bit better/last a bit longer but you get the idea) Plus higher speed/juice pushed through can mean more heat/wear Still lovely like I keep saying just not as quick as it was perhaps G&G may want you to think it might last a little longer (nah - they mugged us with the recent batches - G&G bastids)

I like the 28a coz battery in back but then that one is handy for cqb etc.... Your picture reminds me of: Airsoft is just like Trigger's Broom (Fools & Horses) I have the same gun for over 7 years.... It has only needed 4 new gearbox's, 3 new motor's, 2 new inner barrel's, 1 other outer barrel, 4 different stocks & grips etc.... How the hell can it be the same gun ??? Well here is a picture of it - what more proof do ya want !!!!! ya see - us airsofter's have a saying that has been handed down through generations.... "Look after your gun" And your gun will look after you ??? "No Dave - it's just look after your gun"

CM16 - Raider (short ver I'd say over long ver I'd say if you do any cqb) CM16 - FireHawk if you do loads of cqb CM18 - just coz they look sexy (but come with 120mag - the others come with 300+ mag) The above 3 are plastic/polymer but tough and not too heavy - battery at back plus they got plenty of rails for adding crap to 2 x ltd editions have metal receivers @ about £150 but think both have battery at front and no so rail-ful Cheaper CM Carbine is also good but no rails on front & battery at front too I like battery at rear in stock coz easy to change and fit any battery in a fixed stubby stock or car battery in full size fixed stock (that is just me - to each their own) Or a cack-handed pig ugly un-ergonomic wtf is this thing AK - Cyma 028a etc... can edge in front of CM's in performance/stats All of these will be under £150 which is half the price of ICS L85, yeah CM's are 10 a penny but they are excellent value for money They are easy to pick up & use, ergonomic (comfortable and easier to peek left/right), very easy to source parts for or upgrades (try getting a L85 gearbox quickly/cheaply in say 18 months time - not having a go but just pointing stuff out) Think all this sort of covers why this forum runs on CM's and we should get commission & all that They are very good guns £ for £ excellent value, perfect first gun choices (or AK is an option if you like) Hence the reason why they are suggested so so so many many many times

+1 for Swindon then being ok about it all then.... let us know how you get on - always good to know decent retailers rather than the few that take ya money and say get on with it best of luck for sorting it in New Year

ooooooooohhhhhhhh it would be interesting to see or ask say LWA zero one etc if we just got a duff stop-gap batch or are they all no longer TT FH's (me thinks now they CM's as they in that price range) £140 for TT box - hi rate of fire, plus them flip sights, VS02 stock & duck bill flash are close to that is parts (should flogg my 2 x VS02 stocks as got stubby's on there to stay now) but on G&G site they show plain grip like our lamer editions or was whippy version mainly destined for other markets like US but US have orange flash hiders - yukkk I dunno how good my local cqb one is but they sell a fair few of these at £30 less than FH + 2tone free del etc.... http://www.tacticalairsoftshop.co.uk/ak-m4-cqb-1632-p.asp yup not got loud bitch flash but that gets on ya nerves sometimes and trust me made it very very easy to hunt down my son & his FH on Saturday

well maybe keep a shs ar latch handy and yeah we was mugged by G&G still could of been worse many have have the higher mosfet guns blow up so could of been worse - but deffo sneaky stunt to pull without telling us

yeah but it don't seem to make sense to me.... 330fps standard spring out of box, why put it 23:1 set when all others have 18:1 FireHawk was shown off as nutty rof - so why drop it back ? or did they run out of 18's or had a few TopTech's come back so toned it down ??? don't think I will get to bottom as to why but it is deffo slower rof to TT FH and maybe even Raider (don't quote me not done a like for like chrono test on same battery etc... but still weird to me)