Sitting Duck

Really silly daft question....... Did you remove trigger switch spring at any time ? if it was installed incorrectly it can rub or impede the tappet plate whizzing back n forth (trigger spring needs to be facing downwards - put it on the other way it can rub on tappet plate) I have made that mistake amongst numerous others - some of which made a bit of a mess inside if cut-off lever engages and pops the switch - my guess is that as it pops up and flies back to disengage the tiny spring which "might" be upside down and main body of spring is very close now to tappet.... the spring hits or puts pressure on tappet plate as it pops and thus it don't return properly or quick enough which means crap/no seal etc...... Well that is my nooby guess - but I've done that (more than once before the penny dropped) not gonna go on too much but when fitting any new/replacement parts it is very wise to check and then double/triple check all is moving as it should be, close up box without spring etc... to ensure stuff like cylinder & head fit correctly inside box as they should, head locates on the lugs, cylinder clicks in place slide piston back n forth when fitting - quite common there may be a slight burr or blob of plastic from mould that snags or a little tight when moving all the way back n forth - tiny careful sandpaper I am a major trainee apprentice noob but from making numerous cock-ups and stuff I have started to gain a tiny - well microscopic bit of wisdom and now I really take some time checking these new bits all fit together properly before I fit spring back in there very often you find some "better" parts still need a tiny little bit of tweaking to fit perfectly 3 types of TM compatible parts: 1st is perfect fit - made to measure 2nd is in need of a little tweak - ahh that's better 3rd - that f**king thing ain't never gonna work and must be for v3 gearbox coz it not going in this v2 box finally on battery side - you may also consider the 9.9v Life in between 7.4 & 11.1v lipo's (though size and capacity is more limited - but might be option if you don't wanna pump 11.1v or find 7.4v not enough)

if that gearbox is plastic then NO - it will bust if plastic gears even if it has plastic gearbox with metal gears - it will soon bust will need a proper gearbox and sorry to say may as well get a more "proper" aeg seems to be an improved B500A1 or bulldog or M805 beginner plinker but still not really a decent skirmish-able or easy upgrade aeg very likely to have a M90 or 300fps spring in there and likely to be about the limit motor might not be up to much more and deffo wouldn't advise using a battery bigger than 8,4v (some funny videos with plastic boxes self destructing on 11.1 & 14.4v lipo's) ok for plinking in back garden, possible get by on a cqb site but use it for what it is and perhaps save upgrade money for a better gun - M120 will push about 390fps way over most sites btw but if you have a plastic box like I think may be in there it will very likely bust real soon

Ahh the trying not to be a dick bit may take a while for me - kidding (sort of) well deffo may try mall as I enjoyed cqb - think its funnier too like when chubby & a few of ya get wedged in a doorway and peeps yelling move move move and the classic - is anyone in there ya wonder as you peek a corner... CRACK - yup HIT - deffo somebody in there as I just got my head shot off

When TWA had urban it was the nutz - alas that is gone Team Nuclear Waste used to play at TWA Woodland spring/summer but they have stopped though 1 or 2 of them turn up from time to time and show us noobs how its done TWA is a cheap & cheerful site like I have said - not the best and most serious I admit but is good to get ya feet wet so to speak and in my case on doorstep and perfect for getting ukara £20 full walk-on or £10 for half day, shop sells stuff at good prices, takes safety seriously I found They run on Saturday's rather than Sunday's like many sites but maybe not for the more serious players But I try not to take it too seriously and go for fun and often have a laugh, keep me ukara up, break a gun etc... Son normally goes full day - drop him off and pop back in afternoon for half a day with any stuff he/we may need So though it may not be the perfect site for some it does me and will continue to visit as its so local Might pop down Epsom again, or one day try Mall and/or Sandpitt with more "serious" players (might have to grow up a bit myself - so it might be a while before I check out Mall though)

gorgeous & I'm sure she shoots as good as she looks out of interest whats the silencer on her ? just looks so damn good & congrats on your dremmel skills etc...

yup - just had to have her, not got the "proper" scope for her yet but she seems ok atm & doesn't mind me not taking her out much and spending money on her (wish most women were like that)

It can help with getting some leverage & reduce sore hand/fingers if pulling larger spring most of day Not took my SVD with handle into battle yet but deffo makes it easier to pull rather than tiny handle Bolt is best & most accurate out of box, aeg SVD's usually use a bespoke/custom gearbox though some aeg makes like JG 1.2m long sniper/RK's use normal ver 3 gearbox But bolt is best & what its all about - yeah I fell in love this sexy tall russian babe too plus there is folding stock version, some cheap normal aeg bits in there plus co2 option yeah you gotta love this intimidating bloody long/tall badass girl

Hi - got bolt & aeg version though bolt is best (you got the svd cocking lever from evike ($18 USD) to help pull heavy spring ???) most of my guns have similar names though - usually: Damn-it, $hit plus other profanities plus most magazines are called Crap-Mag (always blame gun/mag when I'm hit rather than myself for sucking at airsoft) Welcome to forum, ignore most of what I say - everybody else does

Blimey - wtf did they do that for I wonder ??? ASCU & others just use micro switches, pic chip & "normal" gears think I'll cross that aeg off my wish list maybe

Active braking "can" generate a little more heat (certainly don't make the motor run cooler) normal fets are negative or npn - triggers the negative supply on/off with active an additional positive fet (pnp) is used to reverse polarity to stop motor as said above In most "general" builds and if a high speed/torque motor is used then it probably will be ok without AB Most high speed/torque motors use neodym magnets (silver) as opposed to cheapo stock ferrite magnets (black) Neodym magnets are MUCH stronger than ferrite - if you can turn a motor over easily that is a ferrite a neodym is very hard to turn like stepper motors, these stronger neodym motors stop much quicker than ferrite motors that roll on & on when power is cut. So if using a stronger neodym motor you "may" not need to use active braking unless you are running a higher speed setup or DSG Using older ferrite motor and higher volts then you may find you need AB but that is if the old stock motor will be up to the job and if it can take any extra stress using AB fet. Me thinks most will upgrade motor to neodym so AB probably won't be needed unless you are going nutz If you are fitting the usual "external" mosfet then you can just do the main rewire on the switch/motor leads try a normal non-braking fet that should be fine for most setups - if it does over run or double fire then it is very straight forward to replace the NB fet with an Active Braking fet is my humble noobish opinion Soldering - there was a couple of threads on soldering deans and stuff a week or two ago with a vid also most soldering is a lot down to using decent iron,solder & perhaps flux plus a bit of practice not hard but like most stuff the more you do it the better you get (usually) deans thread: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/24451-what-deans-plugs-do-you-use/ There a number of ways to wire it all in, v2 gearbox's are a little more awkward than v3 as motor wires on v2 are inside box and if rear wired you have extra wire(s) running by motor spindle but you can run signal wire(s) externally if you are careful. When using thicker 16awg motor wire space gets tight inside a v2 where as v3 motor wires are external so to speak. It is not that hard if you can solder ok - all down to using decent stuff + practice and then add a little common sense

weigh piston first..... just under 20g is what I aimed for on last few builds on complete piston a set of full steel teeth & an ali head can get up to 30gms with piston bearing some cheap lightweight pistons can be as low as 13gms but didn't look robust for a hi speed setup swiss cheese may only reduce weight by about 3 or 4gms which equates to all steel teeth or ali head In a DMR with higher spring a bit of weight is ideal but if going for hi rof then a lighter piston is required (but without losing too much strength) For what its worth - if you have a set of scales then use them to check weight of piston you would be suprised the difference when you compare a few pistons and it can make a difference If using hi speed gears 13:1 or 12:1 and piston is a bit heavier then you may get pre-engagement & that may require short stroking & a slightly heavier spring if this happens. You can nudge 30+ on stock 18:1 gears if you get your homework done with a hi speed motor hence I said 18 or 16:1, half decent 20g or less piston should be fine with 1 or 3 steel teeth for most peeps as always take time & triple check everything turns/slides smoothly as you rebuild it. always check any parts you replace fit properly - sounds obvious but often new parts may need a bit of sanding or filing to fit into gearbox and close up perfectly. Failing to check a new part fits will often lead to snap or bang weigh the piston if you can and you may not need to use all steel teeth/swiss cheese piston unless you are going nutz I think it already may mosfet in with electrics on gearbox as well as all steel piston: http://www.airsoft-military-news.com/review-ares-amoeba-honey-badger but should of been able to handle 11.1v really and if review guide was saying rof is 15 then sounds like 18:1 and just a torquey motor rather than torque+speed motor in there: Anyway - looks like all steel teeth piston - maybe weigh it and see, could swiss cheese it but also the steel teeth could of contributed to gears shredding if box jammed instead of just having a piston snapped at the initial pickup tooth perhaps ??? (probably never know for sure how all gears & motor shredded inside now)

It is a "full contact" sort of site like I said - a LOT of engangement takes place at 10ft or so so it will sting a bit more than most hits at say woodland sites They may not chrono or forgot to chrono when I visited But the regulars are very good sports - yup I full auto'd a couple when it was semi only The Tunnel Rats are also very good players plus they are playing on their own turf so to speak But they have won numerous cqb/tunnel competitions at other sites. Quite a few use tracers with a mix of norm/tracer bb's so they can see their shots in the gloomy dark They need to announce on PA system when game/round finishes as they say they flicker lights but if you are a newbie you may not notice it - I didn't once or twice. Still no site is 100% perfect I guess You can't really describe it to be fair - it is SO different to the run of the mill skirmish site - even reg cqb sites It is often nigh on pitch black, and if there is light then watch out for shadows giving your/others position away you need a torch sometimes to find ya way back and perhaps some extra layer or two or plate unless you like pain No it ain't that bad most of time but it bloody stung a bit getting lit up in back when I was retreating back to respawn (so even a bit of carboard or something would of took that sting out a bit) BUT - I did enjoy it, might not be my regular cup of tea but I will go back there but a bit better prepared next time

Ares ??? should be a ver 2 in there so I would suggest SHS 18:1 or 16:1 but if it got shagged so quick I would send it back - it is "supposed" to be lipo ready Think some Ares are a bit hit n miss but would expect it last a bit ffs I mean motor and gears strip that quick - jeez you sure you didn't run it on 14.8v lipo or 240v mains for it to do that much damage so quick it couldn't have been running sweet out of box but if ya have investigated it then ya probably lost ya warranty opening up g/box

I hope to start back ripping stuff apart later in Jan Only thing I'm not a big fan on fitting everything inside box like ASCU (think there is 1 or 2 QD boxes that have a fet fitted by selector plate side) Just think if fet craps out (some cheapo ones often do when pushed hard) if they crap out then you gotta open it all up again to replace.... I'm no expert - far from it but think if you have room and plan the wiring most should be able to fit in a moderate sized fet ok in their guns MP5K might be tricky but there are some very small fets out there Also if basic fet fitted have yet to see if something like a burst wizard could be fitted alongside more bits n hassle but would give owner option of fet to start with and if burst works in tandem then add the burst wizard later if peeps wanted - or not if something plays up later either of the two modules could be replaced well that is just my ideas/theories and should have room in my M4's but the ACSU is guaranteed for yonks - just think it is still expensive

cheers for that - thought is was SRC just being a pain or unique or whatever My SRC's aren't too bad really with their 2-piece and so will keep them as is atm They have had a couple of 8mm bearing QD's in there which was better than the stock 6mm green plastic bushing box they originally had

not fitted a fet yet to QD yet got a few in some SRC's M4's still to finish off think there is a bit more to QD also with the semi or cut-off lever (not sure if they use same lever or what in there) Hope to open some up and rewire in a fet signal along with a lower spring (120 in there atm but spring change don't need box open but check shim & grease at same time as rewire) I do like the tiny trigger travel on them and quick spring change is brilliant even better if stock is quick removal like on fixed stubby and there is a small hole on receiver to access the spring though many stocks need or fit better if there is a small "lug" on receiver to bolt stock to I have removed "lug" and cut hole at back of one plastic M4 receiver carefully to offer easy spring access stubby still fits on nicely as it don't need stock tube soz for waffle - yet another unfinished project of mine to do in new year

ooh just notice a 2 piece hop-up I think like SRC & some JG M4's if so it is another thing to remember - not a massive thing and you can just "smash in" a normal hop..... Deffo looks better build than SRC M4's though (can't be no worse) did see them on LWA and very tempted but I have way way way too many guns but pics do look ok to me and deffo better than a Dragon I reckon (I do like QD box but owners need to be aware about fitting fets asap in there)

LWA sell DYTAC http://www.landwarriorairsoft.com/airsoft-weapons-c38#c45:sort3:m56:page1:infscr4079 their cheap sportsline £90 appears to use the QD style V2 box where as their Invader MK18 uses it seems the conventional V2 box (click on models and look at internal pics of each model) QD usually means Quick Change spring & often the micro switch trigger (APS Hybrid boxes use a "conventional" trigger switch but their trigger is slightly slightly longer latch on it than say SRC/G&G trigger) Nothing bad about the micro switch system - usually a shorter travel trigger pull which some may prefer BUT the owner needs to be aware that on many or most of these QD boxes the trigger/switch is bespoke So you can't replace with the normal type of switch eg: SHS etc... The selector plate "may" also be different too but this seems to be the more "modern" trigger system Parts can be sourced for the switch - even AK2M4 sells some QD switch bits The main thing that the owner should/must do is fit a mosfet in a QD or microswitch trigger box The switch contacts are not as robust as the "ol skool" switch and will very quickly crap out with higher juice Them microswitch contacts just won't last on higher volt/amps and many owners have found out too late Nice easy spring change, modern short travel trigger pull (not quite speed trigger) BUT a fet is a serious consideration to fit in there if you want trigger to last (kinda weird - quick spring saves you opening box up but switch will need replacing if you fail to fit a mosfet) You kinda wonder wtf they don't fit a decent one in there anyway but suppose its down to cost But a "decent" £10 or less fet would save ya switch so can't work out why it ain't fitted as standard Then again G&G have had a major headache with some of their fet AEG's but think that is more of a quality control or using cheaper less reliable fets to save money - very unwise

just popped in coz on hol is US atm - life's a 8itch I know Blimey - TWA is Croydon Surrey not Twickenham. Alas there are one or two of younger players there who have a tendency not to take hits straight away My local site and it can get frustrating to the more serious players I know. It is on my doorstep and I tend not to take it too seriously - but I do like to think I take hits - think coz it means f*ck all to me in mega serious terms (I know I am crap so I often call it even if unsure where as others tend to ignore a "possible" or "was that a bb ?" tap on them) Usually if somebody reports non-hits then marshalls Pete,John, Simon & Sam will test out their GBB pistols on them quite regularly But there is perhaps 1 or 2 that may not play fairly as others I will admit - f*cking shame coz it can ruin it for others and think that some of the more serious or skilled players have maybe gone to the more serious sites like Sandpitt or Mall etc... Really sorry there was more to$$ers than usual, normally it ain't mega mega bad non-hit takers but you always get 1 or 2 in many places I think It is a cheap & cheerful site - but I must admit the DMR sounds bollox to me coz they really are so hot on safety, everything chrono's so can't work out why they woulkd of let somebody use higher fps with easy auto option & not locked to semi - that really amazes me They say you gotta know wtf MED is all about before they will allow you to use it And have seen first hand them kick peeps off for the slightest bending of safety guidelines Well none of that crap yesterday was me coz was over in Orlando - ahh well seriously - I'm sorry you didn't have a great game at my local and it was a bit of a w@nk perhaps try other sites if the cheap & cheerful TWA is not for you Next time if anybody gives me & son a shout then I can try & ensure I'm on enemy team and will be the perfect hit taking twat for you to shoot at Happy New Year anyway - shoot ya later

Hopefully you all get what you wanted wished or hinted you wanted. But be thankful for what you have got already not what you didn't get (apart from Oi Santa where's my ********* bike) Hope Christmas isn't too stressful with in-laws, wife nagging, kids driving ya nutz yup its all money orientated crap but nice festive crap - so hope all goes well for ya too quickly its over and we are all back to work/school/uni etc..... I asked somebody at work this question: " What ya getting this Christmas ??? " " PISSED " So if ya old enough to buy a 2-tone/RIF then hope you have a great New Year at the very least I'm signing off until New Year and going on a festive break so have a bloomin marvelous & Merry Christmas and start your New Year with a bit of a hangover - no driving & no showing off your aeg whilst pi$$ed unless you are getting new TV in January sales - seriously (ha me serious ???) Have a good one, stay safe & see ya in New Year S D

I think if you know your gun you can get away without anything protecting it (you would know if it didn't feel/sound right and have sense not to hold trigger down) or sense the grip is getting f*cking warm or warmer than usual But most of us like to think there is something there to limit any possible damage though think I have had more than just one fuse blow and nowt is wrong when new fuse fitted (they can be a pain tripping out if too low fuse in there some have 10a, 20a or 30a on some fet blade fuse) and if fuses blow often people put in a higher fuse "just to see" not too bad on gun but do that crap in house and you may regret shoving a 13a fuse in TV plug (5a) or lamp (3a) Totally understand peeps saying they prefer fuse in there but OP has fet with better fuse built in and might be tight on room so think he is well ok to remove it in this case & like I said there are some tiny basic fets with built in thermal fuse so can do away with fuse in MP5 if he wants to fit those fets

Well I have bought a few RIF's from them and never had a problem (I was ukara'd so didn't need 2-tone) Others have had trouble but then I had problems with LWA but I have still bought stuff recently there Think if you want a RIF painted you will always run into possible trouble it may have been a mis-understanding or maybe they couldn't be ar$ed as most are winding down now On top of that - at certain times the popular models can be tricky to come by in stock G&G Raider's were a little thin on ground over summer and think certain types/models are sold out at some places now Anyway - it don't matter guy ordered his gun so hopefully he will get it asap for new year skirmish so lets hope all's well that ends well Ho Ho Ho & all that crap

yeah wouldn't of thought they held much stock already 2-toned G&G so maybe they said if you want it now then need ukara they got some cyma & ICS in clear/black 2-tone but doubt if G&G is already painted to go hence they may have said this & ya girl not quite understood exactly what they meant anyway I'm sure it was a kind of misunderstanding to be fair

that is f*cking weird - do them for discrimination ffs is she could prove she was 18 then there is no reason why she should not be able to buy a 2-tone toy gun ffs clear one is still 2-tone so she should be able to buy it off shelf unless for some bollox reason they try n say they reserve the right not to sell not a good "customer is always right" example if she could provide id f*ck it, I would of took my business elsewhere if I or anybody I know was treated like that you get one chance to impress in this retail world and they f*cked it if it is how you say

if space is a major issue then you could look at a silly size basic fet with its own thermal fuse much cheaper than do everything Gate one and still throw away fuse coz you got thermal one built in for silly money