Sitting Duck

Well the other alternative is go back to std 18:1 in 621 & RA motor (still quicker) but to use 13:1 in 516 you need to mod the arc bit on top half of reinforced 516 box then the 13:1 spur will fit & spin ok use SHS/RA motor in 621 with 18:1's hoping the Perun will work OK again then the Cyma motor in 516, with 13:1 after modding arc both guns will perform "roughly" about the same say 16~17rps on 7.4v lipo sorta thing bit of fucking about no matter what... should have just bought your son a set of 16:1's that would go straight in and you could have left the 621 alone and just used the RA motor in it or kept as is I blame the kids in the end - Daaaaaaaad - it's not working/fucked "Well it was running alright when I left it" bloody kids - cost you a fortune they do

OK regarding safety... Did you remove the copper plate on the selector plate when affixing sticker for sensor ??? What "might" be taking place is the safety cam, (looking like a bloke with a big nose) the cam or arm is not being pushed back to 12 o'clock when inside the receiver Safety very likely all works fine on the bench with grip/motor but when you install it the selector plate is not pushing the safety cam/arm to exactly 12 o'clock but just a whisker shy say 12:15 ~ 12:30 (taking the safety arm as the little hour hand) It is a whisker shy of 100% 12 o'clock and the way shit works the actual safety stop is just below trigger's stop and this just slips under the limit stop of trigger and fires on SAFE Now if you removed the copper plate you likely lost near 1mm of travel pushing safety arm into position If you kept the copper tab - then it "should" still operate correctly, hence when had issues with new trigger I said use old one - which seemed to help Anyway.... What you might need to do is add a small whisker of material on the left side of selector plate tab if you have removed the copper plate, then perhaps super glue a capillary straw/pipe like WD40 tube to left side of selector tab & test - you just want something 1~2mm max glued on to test (if it works then add a bit of epoxy or glue it properly onto the selector plate) Basically anything to increase the travel slightly on SAFE so safety arm rises a whisker more to engage it a If you have the copper plate still on the selector plate, then just add a little line or drizzle of solder to left side I broke the cm.515 selector getting in/out a few times & used a cheapo one lying around unfortunately the same thing happened, on safe the gun was very like yours, mostly still able to fire I drizzled a slither of solder onto the left side of copper plate and the arm then raised fully to stop the trigger If you haven't removed the copper plate then it doesn't make sense why it isn't working correctly as it was and you must check the arm itself is not fouling on the Perun inside the box - shouldn't be but check just in case if it isn't fouling, then chances are for a bit of wear & tear or other reason the selector is not pushing the safety cam quite enough to the left safe position to ensure the arm itself rises fully (the oem cheapo orange v2 selector plate I used was made ever so slightly different, the arch was cut a smide over and so the TM compatible bollox - even with the copper plate fitted, failed to raise the safety 101% correctly like before a slighter of solder, sticking to the copper plate like shit to a blanket did the trick or glue a piece of material (plastic strip or say outer insulation sleeve from old wire bit of thin wire) Now the sporadic firing problem is likely to do with the different sector gear... It is possible the the optical sensor is not picking all the teeth on the 13:1 sector be it being jet black, chunkier teeth or just needs to unit shifted a fine minor smidge one way could be grease on senor, sector rubbing, to do with light not picking up all the teeth (so cycles another once or twice coz it only read say 14 teeth not 16 if full sector gear) Also with optical units the gun can be made to cycle if light enters the box often people go to test a box with box & grip/motor & light enters that tiny pin by trigger and can make some optical units go nutz & confused & calibration difficult even then if hold gun upside down towards sun on a sunny day or shine a bight light at trigger, the light can enter box and cause gun to fire all by itself yes - optical units can be prone to the odd issues of the sensors incorrectly detecting stuff I doubt if the colour of the sector really makes much difference, it works by the teeth breaking the beam 16 or whatever it calibrates the gun/sector as... So most likely the different sector is ever so slightly different, a whisker out of wack picking up varying teeth so likely need to loosen unit, shift it to right/left slightly & retest if all teeth detect properly One thing to try is pull the trigger only what it is needed - don't pull it ALLLLLL the way, just enough to fire as the Perun on ultra full trigger pull can fire, but trigger goes beyond the range of sensor(s) so think trigger is reset when in fact it has travelled too far on max pull, so that when you release it, it comes back across the sensors and thinks it is another pull when in fact it is resetting to rest - so gun gets very confused & fires sporadically on the 516 box there is a casting where you can easily add material to limit the final trigger pull alas on the 621 box it is not reinforced and doesn't have this material to easily half trigger travel so alternative method or proper adjustable speed trigger/mod might be needed but before you do owt shiting unit about, test on half trigger pulls if gun is sporadic (trigger sensor issue) or if no joy then likely shift unit about to improved the sector sensor detection issue hope some of this helps

Soz m8 was asleep this afternoon & at work untill 7:00am m8... Will reply then & edit update

if all else fails - beginning of April... Good Friday 2nd April Easter Sunday 4th April Organise an Easter Bunny/Egg Hunt skirmish - no it's a Egg Hunt (max 30 people) carry around a few Creme Egg Grenades to chuck at each other Games will vary from Team Egg Match, Capture the Shell etc... THAT BUNNY HAS A M4 - YOU LOT ARE PLAYING AIRSOFT !!! (says PC Karen) No officer you are very much mistaken - that is an Arctic Hare with a 249

I think 650 MP's should lead by example and ensure they are vaccinated with vaccine passports etc... After all we seem to be heading towards a NO JAB = NO JOB scenario despite all the BS of "flatten the curve", no need for masks - you must wear a face covering hang we need to revise how we calculate covid deaths & test cycles you can spend Christmas... ergh no you can't we are not planning to introduce passports/vaccines for children etc... All the MP's get jabbed first before they lecture any more NO JAB = NO JOB see if they resign or get the vaccine & lead by example (take their chances)

Some other models are not too shabby either I'm more than sorted but kinda like the KR-CQB... it is NOTHING SPECIAL - old school stuff, but some retailers have it at £150 but at least it isn't a common as muck Raider 1 model mind you expect to see a shit load of DE HB's when people get to go peew peew again end of the day - your gun, your money & G&G do make some niiiiice looking guns with decent polymer receivers etc... & easy/popular to sell on if you wish they make some over priced & over rated stuff too wtf is their DEATH-MACHINE mk2 all about ffs at an inflated BS price £250 (polymer gun) but yeah £150 (maybe a smidge more) for a polymer G&G is about right imho (if you really like a certain model)

different guns also there is the 2.0 & the 2.0e the E has the iffy ETU in it

it doesn't - it is a case of getting the fucker cycling from still once it is running it will continue to cycle on full auto as the thing is running and yu are just keeping it - ergh running from still, especially precocked a little or a lot - yeah you got little or no chance of getting the bastid to move BUT - now on some ye olde v2's they have a copper plate across the selector and two prongs on switch that get bridged by the plate however - these two prongs lose some tension over time and the contact from selector plate is not quite 100% and the first point of contact is in semi - there is no contact in safe and this ye olde extra safety feature helped to ensure gun can not fire even if safety failed So no contact on safety, contact begins on semi & stronger contact is made on full auto yet it was not uncommon to see sporadic or not perfect bridging in semi and added to a gun struggling on semi Now your gun don't have these prongs/plate bollocks but some like cheapo Cyma's still have this crap Yet - though it shouldn't matter on semi or auto - when firing from still, partially pre-cocked (it is the fucking same shit - stationary gun trying to cycle on a weak lame motor...) you do seem to get marginal more success trying to fire a stalled gun in auto than in semi you really shouldn't all things considered - if the gun is stalled it is fucking stalled but on occasions the gun does seems to eventually cycle more in auto than in semi fuck knows why this is - could be a gun with prongs/plate has better contact though yours does not have this it could be the trigger is being an arse & not latching correctly or cut off bollox yet overall it SHOULDN'T really make a difference from stationary if the gun's stalled ergh it has stalled and semi/auto should be nigh on same meat different gravy when attempting to fire The reason why you don't wanna chuck loads of money into it is coz the switch, trigger, cut off lever, selector plate etc.. - all of this is fucking bespoke/weird shit you can't change the trigger, if the COL wears out being alloy over time - yeah a SHS one won't work the switch can be replace (often) if all that shit went tits up and you was looking to replace it all then there is the possibility and I say POSSIBLE option of gutting for a Perun Optical which would do away with a lot of the bespoke shit HOWEVER - this is a serious investment and likely not worth it unless you really wanted to keep the gun PLUS - I DO NOT KNOW FOR CERTAIN IF THE PERUN WOULD FIR IN THERE PERFECTLY OK I think it might - might need a bit of a mod but it is a possible option for desperate Nuprol owners to consider However only really sad owners might take the plunge of it working with a bit of work if they had trouble sourcing say COL **** ignore the above bollox about possible UNTESTED Perun upgrade **** It was more a case of explaining what a wank these boxes are if shit hits the fan and bespoke bits n bobs to source so you got a bit of a qwirky box to say the least - Nuprol ain't the only ones, TomTac boxes use micro switch bollox and some other makes did too, don't think it was early E&C's but some other might be ZCI and also Arcturas bollox use this crap too I think... http://wmasg.com/uploads/froala/images/articles/1/a018dd57c4c7aeca08b1210a68947c9c.jpg FFS - WHY DO SOME PICS POST & OTHER DON'T... though it looks ultra bespoke I do tend to think a perun Optical could be made to work in there with conventional trigger/selector plate perhaps - but still untested/gamble and certainly not fucking worth it coz it's a cheap shite knackered looking dog of a gun (with its own issues on top) anyway - the gun once stalled shouldn't matter if in semi/auto only firing in auto sometimes brings a little more success than semi - think you can just try like fuck without the COL/Trigger latch issue in auto than a better continuity thing with motor wiring crap WELL - you are getting there in the looks department

it should be QC spring but has them fucking odd bespoke bastid micro switches likely with a qwirky trigger dooberry that bends & relatches mofo shit jobs https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/nuprol-spare-part-m-series-replacement-trigger-airsoft-6mm-softair-nsp-dsp-009-30574-p.asp So it is advisable to ensure it has a mosfet in there or you will need to replace the microswitch sooner than later deans, slap some grease it it, check seals but likely weak motor is looking a little tired... with a tiny budget you could chuck in a cheap mosfet, deans, lube, seals etc... clean up the motor commutator with fibreglass pen etc... then due to mosfet - run it on 11.1v to get some zest and give it some welly on 11.1v to stop the motor stalling (admit you would deffo install mosfet on microswitch guns, clean up motor a tiny bit and invest on a lipo - poss 11.1v) unlikely you will blast past 20rps so no massive danger on lame arse motor until it finally croaks you could be looking at say £10 min if diy mosfet or say £20 if you buy a basic one like perun & bits n bobs plus LiPo battery or better battery of course YES you could change this and that - new motor & all that but that is throwing more money at it than perhaps it is worth in its present state (and it is a Nuprol with qwirky switch/trigger - well it is a Nuprol) with its possible micro switch dooberry bollocks - you do not wanna boost the juice as is atm Nuprol's get a LOT of flack - but their biggest weak point is that switch you will be replacing it often if you run on 9.6v or 11.1v due to arcing at contacts (you will then get ripped off with buying a NUPROL switch, which is just a std microswitch of same spec) if these companies put it a tiny bit more thought into the design/build - a £5 mosfet or 50p diode (perhaps) then the switches will last longer (especially micro switches - the hint is in the micro bit) Then put in a slightly better built motor - still ferrite to keep costs down but one that is assembled with better tolerances & efficiency, run it on 9.6v or 11.1v as it has mosfet/diode and everyone is happy but nope - they like most companies slap it all together in a Chinese sweat shop cutting corners and some shit is worse than others for durability but yeah in its present state you don't wanna go nutz on money/servicing/upgrading it just general basics and mosfet of some description I would look to maybe a schottky diode across motor but unsure how well the micro switch would hold up long term 11.1v But it is a bit of a mess atm ( no offence ) so really a cheap-skate bodge and re-slap it back together is probably all I'd do too or at least until it croaks a bit - then consider any options & stuff

Many might be tempted to consider a £150 Ultimate/Lonex/ASG gearbox (hmmm) but tbh think send it to Luke/Negative Airsoft or Tactical Geordies might be a wiser consideration as there may be other issues to resolve too

I think it is a good innovation for trouble-shooting ergh shooting issues... stuff like ICS M4 nozzle is smaller than SHS 21.4mm nozzle or Galaxy MP5K is not the MP5 nozzle but SHS M4 length (but the shoulder is too wide & needs reducing) some AK's like long AK nozzle & others prefer the shorter one odd/bespoke guns like SIG 552's if you can't find a SIG nozzle and/or tappet issues or feed problems etc... however once you diagnose the nozzle to the particular hop unit & sussed what exact length is required to resolve issues you might be having then yeah - if poss, I'd sooner get a fixed nozzle the desired length/spec I can see it being more for trouble-shooting say a built from scratch gun where the odd qwirk creeps in to diagnose/resolve/fine tune etc... but would aim for a fixed nozzle once all sorted - good idea all the same

End of the day - that is all that matters

) Ignore this post maths suck atm... Nope was right it is about €1:06 to the £ on TWG Travellers cheques/cash €1:11 to £ PayPal €1:09 to £, I don't remember the rate calculation being quite as low, by comparison, on many previous orders, But the prices/calculations might soon be due for review

Could be so you can apply the formula to UK prices, and from the EU States in sterling etc.... I'm just showing you the x 0.831 formula to arrive back to ex 23%. The currency fluctuation though "should" effect the inclusive, as well as the ex-VAT price for UK. It is fine though as a minor margin would allow for for discrepancies etc... Poland's tax office have the authority in certain instances take money owed from your business account if they wish to. Yup actually take the money from the account, where as UK can freeze the account, Poland can actually take money owed to them

Never hurts to simplify the workings out... My missus works out percentages the long way, I prefer to just say multiply by 1.2 for UK VAT. Or x 1.23 for Polish VAT applied, It is more of simplified method 1 sum on calculator or phone, But as said same meat different gravy & all that... End of day TWG "seem" to perhaps skimming 2%, Not full exporting it zero 23% VAT - NEARLY at say just under 21%

Or just multiply the TWG price by 0.831 (Same meat different gravy) £133.76 x 0.831 = £108.75 is what the price SHOULD be ex 23% VAT. What they have done is knocked off 21% (just under)... £110.59 x 1.21 = £133.89 (just under 21%) knocked off, so TWG are likely skimming 2% admin fees... Still cheap but not quite what it should be

TWG & GF charge or rather CHARGED you 23% Hungary is highest @ 27% blah blah blah... it is there on the invoice if go into your GF account and look at detailed invoices so now the VAT is collected & stays in UK there may be some admin/fees on top but overall the tax revenue is collected for UK purse yes others will cream off admin crap too

if it was a std v2/v3 then then easiest option would be something like the G&G ETU setup NB: I said easiest but still a LOT of fucking about Point being is the switch module uses a pos supply to 3 switches TRIGGER, COL & SELECTOR PLATE so it returns a positive signal from 3 switches to inform the mosfet what state of play is In this scenario you would simply exntend the wiring from trigger microswitch up to front of gun and if box stays put with selector etc... then it will work with a remote trigger switch firing the gun however the mosfet is shit so likely need replacing with Peru ETU even though another £40 - it is all starting to add financially not just actual work involved you could use other variants of fancy bollox internal mosfets but the rather simplified ETU would be easier to extend than a more intricate all in one pcb mosfet and the more modern optical units - well you'd need a far greater understanding of electonics to extend or convert optical switches/sensors to ye olde anologue/mechanical switch for trigger when my ETU shit the bed years ago - I did look at a crude system of latching transitors to utilise the ETU in gearbox, but could not get a couple of basic transistors to switch/latch & then unlatch as I needed to just use the ETU as a simple semi/auto setup (you touch the trigger once quickly - it switches closed and latches until the cycle is complete and the COL then pops and it unlatches and stops the power mosfet 3034 etc...) yeah somehow the various states of the latching never quite worked out exactly as intended no matter what I tried & threw together on a pcb breadboard = so fuck it I gave up (and clever cunts Perun sorted out ETU options thank fuck) but I went back to old school trigger in the fucked FFR A2 anyway No matter what - this project you propose will no doubt have a fuck load of headaches to overcome but something lke the wanky ETU setup is likely to be required with extended trigger microswitch yeah I would think long and hard if the project is truly viable in the end

think most people look to tear down a gun once she dips below 300fps (as a general rule of thumb - unless you are perfectionist trying to maintain constant range/performance) nozzles will never seal 101% like say cylinder head coz they are shuttling back n forth but unlike piston they don't swell outwards from vents in piston head etc... so nozzles will never seal 101% & if it is too tight on spout that isn't ideal either for rapid shuttling back n forth now yes it is gonna leak if it is really loose & not ideal but you have lessened the leaky as fuck cylinder head so though you may not reclaim say 30fps you should perhaps see 10fps or so at least improvement and the issue with all this shit is where do you start & where do you stop ??? I said they are a bit bespoke/qwirky - but they are pretty decent cheapo starters just a bit less TM Compatible in some places I mean yeah you could buy a new cylinder head that std nozzle might fit better and also a new nozzle/tappet combo & mod it a little (pita Cyma) But really I think your approach is right atm maybe further down the line if fps drops or it shits the bed then open her back up when it needs it and do the nozzle/tappet thingy perhaps I can pm Pete about sending him a Cyma tappet to try his nozzles on but think most of them will still be a little loose on the Cyma tappet fucking annoying coz the Cyma v3 boxes/tappet are more compatible it's these fucking v2's that are a little weird... the 516 is a v2 gearbox - but uses a v3 spring guide (thicker tab at back) the safety arm - have to remove screw before you open box the tappet plate has the cut outs up front that most don't have the ye olde trigger switch has a big eyelet or mod other switches to fit and at back of switch selector it still uses prongs & copper plate on selector plate plus it is re-enforced so need to mod box to fit 13:1's in their v2 boxes (on v3's they go straight in coz not re-enforced - but a few v2 boxes are like this) but they are a good strong cheapo box that won't crack easily like a G&G blow back box & way more reliable than say a Nuprol or others with micro switches that burn out asap I suppose the 516 is like a half decent Punto cheap as fuck, you know it ain't high end to challenge an BMW but if you go easy it will do ya proud to run around with and if it really goes tits up then you cut ya loses and buy something else a bit better

WTF ??? Now don't get me wrong, fancy high end shit is all well & good if you got money falling out of your arse & all that and some Youtuber's build hose machines almost as big as their fucking ego and yes ultra high parts are manufactured to higher tolerances blah blah blah and a CNC box owner will obviously say it is the best (fucking hope so for the money you paid for it) But there is also the classic newbie mistake of slinging in the most expensive parts without checking how they all fit & operate together (if you ain't checking = you ain't teching) They sling in stfu bits n bobs - the very best/most expensive bollox lonex gears or Seigtek for example... sling it all in and it don't work too well or pretty piss poor But REALLY... pic again... if you don't fucking know which fucking gear goes where and you need a diagram on the cunting expensive as fuck box to tell where expensive shit goes then you really should just send it all off to somebody else to build for you imho fuck me - looks like IKEA are making airsoft parts now

Ahhhh tricky one coz the tappet is a bit bespoke and the usual Red SHS is very loose/wobbly on it The plastic SHS TZ0100 is a better fit - slight wobble but way less than Red M4 https://www.shs-airsoft.com/product/shs-m4-nozzle/ Trouble is - very few places stock them and the odd slot dooberry is supposed to prevent "bb suction" (where incoming bb plugs the nozzle and restricts cylinder filling with air though this is more likely to occur on a full/closed cylinder than a ported one) So this so called innovation is not needed on most/nigh on all guns The other issue is the "slot" may - untested may, may cause turbulence in expelling the air to hop/bb etc... So you are unlikely to find one locally and not needed & may disturb airflow BUT it does fit better than the Red SHS nozzle Now a SHS Red M4 fits lovely on a SHS tappet plate but that don't fit in Cyma box - so you gotta mod it with cut outs up front like I mentioned a while back... before/after... Now you could buy a LONEX tappet plate... But be careful.... some refer to a Lonex plate that has cut-outs like Cyma & some refer to a Lonex that is straight edges like SHS me thinks Lonex have revised stuff perhaps and/or the Ultimate tappet has the cut outs now & Lonex is straight edge - bit confusing Lonex gearbox with Lonex tappet... http://www.clandestineairsoft.com/bmz_cache/2/2823a11f89cd1d24f5eb8d2d4173736b.image.735x550.JPG weird coz gearbox doesn't have the extra material inside like Cyma so doesn't need the tappet to have cut outs in a Lonex box ??? Now here is a Lonex tappet plate also... https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/lonex-enhanced-tappet-plate-for-version-2-gearbox-m16g3mp5 and here is the Ultimate (ASG/LONEX linky somewhere) https://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/ultimate-tappet-plate-for-m16g3mp5-series-version-2-gearbox GB-01-18A & UL-PT-16618 with me thinking the tappet with cutouts is now the ASG/Ultimate one now & Lonex tappet is now solid edge like SHS AND - even then I don't have a fucking clue how snug the stuff fits on them so maybe forget the Lonex/ASG lottery if it is cut out & what nozzle will fit etc... I think Lonex/ASG tappet is not worth it you could buy a new cylinder head with fatter spout - so shit nozzle seals a little better (but dunno what one to tell ya to get) Sooooo - that leaves a SHS v2 tappet, modded slightly to work in Cyma box and then a Red SHS nozzle to go with it - just std one you don't need the double o-ring one (often the double o-ring one has nicks in it to prevent bb suction but there are some double o-rings without nicks - but most are nicks) https://www.amazon.co.uk/SHS-Shooter-Aluminium-Double-Nozzle/dp/B013M53VQ4 So keep it simple and just go for a single o-ring then mod the SHS tappet to fit in Cyma Not a massive investment - more bit of time sorting it out on SHS tappet Now Pete @ak2m4 does a few nozzles... std... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/ra-m4-aluminium-nozzle double o-ring - without nicks it seems... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/ra-m4-aluminium-nozzle-double-oring (weird - most if not all the ones I've seen & few I have have nicks in them) plus a ZCI one too... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/zci-aluminum-air-seal-nozzle-v2 and a AOLS one... https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/nozzles/aols-m4-aluminium-nozzle-double-oring though this is a little longer and has nicks in... (though dare say if filed down slightly most of nicks will vanish) So Pete has FOUR nozzles Hopefully ONE of them MIGHT be a more fit on Cyma std tappet either old clear one in 516's or revised blue one in latest 517's & 621's etc... (they both wobble with SHS Red nozzle - same shit but different polymer/ABS/Plastic) If Pete doesn't have a Cyma weirdo bespoke tappet - I can post him one of my old clear ones then he can try & see if one nozzle fits on std Cyma tappets better (or not) Might find one nozzle is better - like the black plastic M4 nozzle but the slotted one I don't think really caught on & not worth stocking unless nothing fucking fits on Cyma tappets properly So really - I think if you want the job done right then you are likely looking at a £5 SHS nozzle & a £3:50 SHS tappet to mod like Cyma one

That's not a REAL fucking gun... (John Lennon's famous last words) hey - don't flame me it's an oldie from here... https://www.angelfire.com/or/mckennap/fuck.html it is still a peew peew toy gun but a realistic looking one but yeah research coz some are much better than others yet most if not have their flaws welcome to the toy gun world btw her old man (Philip) has dropped some clangers over the years noncey Andrew & cuck Harry haven't helped either so she has a number of arseholes around her though thing about opinions being like arseholes.... you should avoid rubbing them in people's faces well unless they are into all that - then yeah good money can be made I guess

HOPEFULLY that should do ya for a good while... the RA motor should be ok in 621 - just avoid using AB but if it does cause issues then keep 621 motor in ergh the 621 and drop the RA in the 516 & both guns should be much snappier HOPEFULLY - your bad run of luck should lessen soon (these toy guns can get a bit expensive with all these repairs & upgrades) The point or trick is to only replace stuff when it breaks (or really needs stuff) and meantime get these poxy fucking things running as efficiently as possible if you are not careful you can sink a small fortune into them and still shoot shit or not at all so fingers crossed this will fix & resolve stuff for a while now

snip - see update/status for mega waffle... maybe get a set of 8mm bearings... just in case the SHS Spur is a bit tight/chunky then replace spur's top bushing with bearing (leave bushing under spur) that should give you a smidge more room to shim with & spin freely if the 13:1 spur especially is so chunky it proves a little too snug/tight I had to use a 8mm bearing, putting 13:1 ZCI/Big Dragon 13:1's in a 517 - modded for 13:1's (just one bearing on top of spur as had virtually no room or play on spur) left 5 x buhings as is, just needed a lower profile bearing on top of 13:1 spur you might be OK, but my gut tells me it will be a little more snug on 13:1's and if room inside is reduced - well you might find it a bit too snug/tight on bushings You do seem to be rather unfortunate with these toy guns are you related to this bloke by any chance...