Sitting Duck

soz for slight ranty ramblimgs - i know I talk bollox 99.999% of time. I also may have not perfect grammar too and like I said either here or on my Silent AOE posting - even I find it hard to understand the $hit I type hence pic of my external fet wire shows what I was rambling on about soz again coz I'm starting to ramble once more

Nope - soz I can't see how that will matter As long as the the 2 positive 16awg wires are joined/soldered together to ensure the final supply is in 16awg then it wouldn't matter if a tiny thin "spur" wire is taken off this joint or if it was all joined at switch terminal The switching of fet requires a tiny tiny amount of juice there is virtually hardly any real drain on the fet being triggered in fact the only real problem is when the motor switches on taking a large load - but this happens whatever way you wire the switch circuit - just 1 wire#4 or with dedicated new wires #4+5 As long as the 2 positive wires are joined as best as they can be it matters not if you take a spur off to switch in household terms - this "spur" is in effect just going to power a tiny nightlight so it would NOT HAVE TO be in 2.5mm twin/earth Before anyone says my DIY sucks - for obvious reasons I would run any spur socket in 2.5mm twin earth in case somebody tries to run a kettle on say a 1.0mm cable - I was just trying to give an example of how 16awg at switch is not a must have or if you run the other diagram with dedicated 4+5 then they can be in 24awg - maybe even 26awg at a push the switching of the fet really needs next to nothing - however when it does trigger then the Negative output DOES NEED 16awg that one negative line is the main drain and is in 16awg - also the Negative supply to fet's circuit must be in 16awg of course but the fet's positive supply is not that critical to be in thicker wire But agree it should be be sufficient enough and above all the insulation should be in perfect condition The Motor needs 16awg and that is it - the trigger - either side of it does not like in wires 4+5 can be quite thin and see no reason how a 24awg spur will cause more resistance as long as them 16awg's are joined correctly (and insulated of course coz that is some mofo current there)

well you got L96 sniper so reckon your old G&G just needs a bit of TLC this chrimbo mainly clean & new bucking first - then see how that goes then if still no joy consider spring, hop-up, barrel as per usual replace/upgrades £400 - wow me personally grab another G&G M4 to use whilst you tweak the old one £150 - £200 on new gun - £50 on some bits & maybe another £50 on battery/mags etc.... leaves ya £100 for new loadout or get wasted over chrimbo (indoors coz £100 won't go far in town) Or £100 to spend on ya loved ones - nah get drunk cheaply instead if ya still out of range with new G&G & refurbed old one - how friggin far away are they then use L96 or buy or build a DMR setup

Final update - well hope so unless she breaks (again) Fitted new motor connectors coz one seemed a little weak and then blew like a fuse (probably 14v+ didn't help - bollox don't tell me trigger wire or box jammed - oh just connector phew) Well changed them both and even added a drop of solder at bend to help strength/lower resistance Then chucked in the high speed SHS motor, seemed very snappy and decent rof on a 7.4v lipo then tried a 11.1v lipo - possible 12v not checked atm - WWWWWOOOOowwwwwwww "She'll no take it captain" as Scotty would say The reason why I am doing all this - well if works out well then maybe will do similar to other CM18 But more so will hope to do this stuff to my poor old CM FireHawk that has much lower rate of fire than the first batch Top-Tech FireHawk my son mugged off me a while back (In the TT FH I put in a slightly harder bucking and few peeps say how the heck is that baby out-ranging me ffs) anyway - test results and what deans battery was putting out on multimeter 11.1v LiPo - 31.41 rps 329.3 fps (12.25v shown on test meter) 9.9v LiFe - 24.15 rps 328.1 fps (10.1v shown on test meter) 7.4v LiPo - 19.21 rps 323.7 fps (8.1v shown on test meter) LiFe's are about the only batteries that come off charge with only a slight increase in volts LiPo's were 2200mah Zippy compacts - LiFe was 1600mah all 3 were 25C rated btw with the above info most likely will keep her on say 10v LiFe or 9.6v old skool nimah but deffo reckon G&G might have just used a higher speed motor in TT FH coz it hits around 22rps on the 10v mark with no mosfet Normally the CM range with stock motor hits about 15-16rps with say aprox 9v mark - I dunno but from memory I think thats what they kinda hit stock wise.... Hi-Speed SHS helps and deffo Mosfet is making it running more efficiently squeezing a bit more out of it than last weekend before she broke - about 26-27 rps on same 11.1v (12v+ from charge) same spring - same gears - same motor - just 20fps less mainly due to piston head's AOE thingy yup - gonna leave it there & hope she don't die again too quickly - pretty chuffed if she lasts

might help if you say North / South England -Wales Scotland Ireland etc.... we tried to get a annual get-together going but fell on its face then we tried Southern Midlands Northern meet but that didn't get far either but you may get a few possibles if peeps know where you play or travel to no having a go just making quick observation that's all alas my loadout is Scruffy London Pikey Car Dealer loadout (jeans boots n black jacket with a dragged through hedge backwards look this season)

NB: Silver wire demonstrates the path it takes and misses mag rel + clears magwell completely just route it carefully with some common sense and finish with a bit of tape to finish..... allow to cool before eating - soz wrong pic/forum yup top receiver clears it too - I used a sprinkle of common checking sense in this recipe final yup - stock spacer ring still fits on there too but everybody will have slight different guns so some little groove may be required for some others but all the same..... If space is running a little tight inside box then you might wanna consider running fet wire externally ">http://

jeez what a load of ol' bollox I type even I'm having trouble getting my head round the above crap AND I typed it ffs - well bored so thought I'd show a pic to show what I'm on about.... BUT seems as if I have used up my allocated disk space on here so unless I link it on ext site or go back & edit my piccy posts I can't seem to attach a file no matter what size/format I use - damn it Oh well looked in my profile/settings but can't seem to figure out easy way to show ya 3 or 4 pics and the external alternative fet wire on ver2 CM18 and other stuff well guess you can figure it all out but does clear magwell & not interfere with mag rel button and as long as you don't use very thick wire she will pass out the back to other wires exiting box reckon you can work it out what I mean but a pic says 1,000 words and would reduce the crap I type

Blimey on the motor - could get half decent SHS/ZCI/Big Dragon for less than half that (even a third of that if ya hunt around) Motor can be changed to a max beefy one easily at later date if you find it a must I mean you will be pulling a M100-ish spring - M105 tops not a DMR or M190 with DSG But up to you I guess, but money saved will go towards the tbb, couple of springs, buckings etc.... Until you get the spring,seals,hop all sorted I think a decent £30-£35 motor will be ok May find you don't need to spend £86 on a motor once she is running sweet internally

A small after thought here.... If ya purchased a cheapo gun that is just over the 350 limit - say 365-ish.... Then it "might" be worth checking & correcting the AOE first before chucking in a lower spring Reckon that some cheaper guns may be like this more than higher end guns and could be brought down when opening up box to check AOE & re-grease etc.... Hmmm when I tidy up a bit I may just check my slightly hot Cyma 028 AK's AOE before just reaching for new spring perhaps ???

Soz to chime in but as gas + our cold weather are not happiest of mix.... Plus the "possible" risk to some higher quality guns... Why not just buy a real cheapo non blow back for silly money.... fill with propane and just use that - if it goes tits up then chuck it (cheaper than having a borked £100+ TM GBB) Just until it warms up a bit - then go back to usual GBB pistol in Spring says the expert on breaking cheaper airsoft stuff when I finally stop breaking stuff - only then will I buy the higher end stuff

Budget Co2 pistol - pull trigger + bb comes out nuff said gas - CO2 or Green Gas stuff can suffer from cold but think you are ok where you are basic pistol to get ya started, but if you are happy and it works ok in 6 months time that is what matters - yeah not top of range but ok to get started with if you are lucky - see if it can take both CO2 and Green Gas mags to give best options GG mags can use propane gas to save money but need adapters etc.... so extra cost but long term savings if use lot of Green Gas

just a few "targets" in my garden...... old metal dustbin 75ft - makes rat tat tat tat noise (used to check/zero sights & hop) plastic milk bottle about 80ft - makes a thud dud dud noise small deodorant can at 100ft - makes a ting ting ting sound aim slight left/right or hi/low and calibrate sights etc... by sound if on target Not worried about perfect tight groupings as these are used to just quick check on normal aeg rifles in my quite secluded garden.... (try not to lean out of window in house too much as you attract attention from next door) just a few different sounding targets - do not empty ya dustbin out or ya missus/mum will go mad

not removed any teeth from final stroke - no this stock gear setup hasn't been short stroked (did that on a previous setup and got unhappy weird results) This stock G&G gear setup - all teeth on sector etc.... Only teeth removed was to correct AOE - no sorbo used coz silent piston was bigger/longer but same thing as sorbo pad or two on cyl head correcting AOE (sorbo's I have are about 2mm thick so usually find 2 req for most times) But initial starting point is aprox 1 tooth back now AOE is done So that is a 1/15th less travel I guess or 6.666% which kinda equates to the 20fps loss I suppose (I was getting 350 last weekend on same gears/M105 spring with crap stock AOE) If I'm honest I guessed I would be down a bit but was kinda hoping it might be about 10fps loss otherwise If I know what I know now I could maybe shoved a m110 spring in there and got 350fps Before anyone says - blow me only 10 off what ya hoping and gotta lose something..... my site is 350 limit, and quite likely fps will go down in say 3-6months was hoping for best as possible but if she drops too much then I can throw a m110 (SHS) in there further down the line.... (M105 is Element brand btw - not super highly rated brand by some so we shall see) My findings at moment it seems: Correcting AOE - that 3 or 4mm will in effect lose ya about 18-20fps or 5 off ya M105 Don't know about Shushy Silent piston - will give it a while to bed in so to speak n see (just wanted to know if people think these pistons are crap/ok/good - well its in there for now) Soz for long post - still learning and you can do all the maths in the world and still get high/low results not to mention the barrel length/cylinder port matching on top can make such a difference though think G&G stock blue cylinder is correct (large single port on a 250-ish barrel) Still quite happy with it and finally put a mosfet & deans connector in there even pushed it with a 12v nimah that was 14v just off charge - just for a quick test (the more I break the more I learn from my mistakes)

Blimey - very good work indeed.... I was gonna put a sarcastic comment how good your sewing craft is but nope - gotta admit that is a very nice bit of work there sir

Just putting back together my CM18 I fixed & broke last weekend..... Think now the piston snapping at initial tooth was not just down to me pushing her with 11.1v lipo & hi-speed motor but also coz I thought ahh wtf she will be ok as she was..... long story short AR latch snapped - yup snapped so replaced that and noted was on 300fps chucked in a new m105 spring in there and also notice seal on cylinder/piston wasn't perfect so chucked in another piston Now noticed AOE wasn't brilliant at all but was same as old stock G&G one but better seal getting 350 or just just under or over a tad - very pleased pushed her with a newly charged 11.1v lipo - probably coming off charge @ about 12 to 12.5v BANG she didn't last long....... tappet/nozzle moving I can see in magwell - yup piston shagged tried short stroke & hi-speed gears, torque motor, higher springs but not getting great results I was expecting so gone back to stock gears now OK - do AOE but thought I'd try a silent piston head as it seemed bigger/longer than most others yup sure enough it is longer piston head - ok lets use a silent or silent looking brass 2 o ring cyl head too (using a flat cylinder head seemed too much spacing for AOE it seemed) checked AOE looked text book perfect after removing 2nd tooth and very nearly removing 3rd on one side Yup that to me looks dogs dangly bits - exact same as I could hope to achieve with normal sorbane pads removed the bearing on piston head and replaced with a similar size 5mm thick plastic spacer - much same as G&G had fitted on stock black piston & head with green o-ring.... (removed bearing on piston head to get weight of thing down to 20g without swiss cheese piston) bit of tape on cyl head - yup she has good seals plus shs nozzle with o-ring - just like last week btw (dunno why but G&G nozzle didn't have o-ring inside - or I couldn't see it or fell out) So - that was supposed to be long story short ???? Anyway she is back together with silent piston & head & M105 in there (torque motor atm) BUT fps has dropped a bit to about 330fps - lost 20fps or about 6%..... It is no biggy and in a kind of way was expecting some loss as the piston travel is sightly smaller with correcting AOE - even with sorbane the piston probably doesn't travel say 1 tooth - aprox 3mm that is used to with pi$$ poor AOE Sound is maybe a tiny tiny bit quieter than before but reckon is more muffled or different sound of piston slapping the head - yup there is a thin stock pad on cyl head and piston is a bit squishy (getting right techy with all these descriptions now) So apart from what I hope be ok for a while - two main questions at the end of all this....... Does this drop in fps kind of make sense or marry up with others findings when doing AOE ??? And are these Silent pistons from element/ultimate/lonex/joe bloggs really worth it or have I just chased yet another crap idea down an alley & lost myself yet again on my gearboxing journey ??? cheers in advance for any input ideas or comments

I was kinda joking about Polar/Tippmann guys........ can't see me paying £400+ for just one gun just yet (I mean gun + tank etc.. so not much change out of near £500 I guess) besides think I would rather make a crude DIY version and jam an airline in a JBBG for laugh (just love to get laughed at - well more than usual - then let rip with a HPA B500A1) was merely saying about AGI now offer shipping to UK that they didn't do previously coz there is loads of stuff over in US - mainly California (jack $hit in Flordida) admit orange tip is a bit of a downer plus import duty lottery....... yes you can get really really stung by import duty - way way over the normal rate sometimes bastid ParcelForce admin fee & HM Customs pulling some random think of a number tax figure out of air Plus the £ - $ exchange rate is crap atm - was nearly $1:80 to quid about Easter but now just over $1:52 ish All the same there is some nice stuff on Evike & AGI for us "limey's" to dream & drool over even though it appears really bloody cheap - I know it will cost me a bit when stuff lands in UK Me buying an expensive gun - nah I think I might do that say in 6 months time - maybe longer first I gotta stop breaking the cheaper guns before I even dare risk that much on a gun I'll no doubt fffk up

Haven't done a ver 3 fet just yet - hey I'm a poet & didn't even know it but ver 2 can be a pain in butt with its " U " bendy motor wire crap, where as ver 3 motor wires are kinda external - not saying for 1 sec v3 are easy - no sir but when putting in thicker wire it can be a bit tight inside v2's - some box's are worse This is even more true if using the usual method of (no wire 5) So in effect you have to connect 2 x 16awg's to one side of switch & not so thick wire 4 to other In hindsight think it might have been worth considering joining 2 x 16awg's together say an inch just before switch plus a thinner old bit of 18awg original wire all shrink tubed up of course then the thinner wire would of been more neater at switch, trigger, safety lever and not have 2 thicker awg's running near them. (it was nearly catching/rubbing on trigger/saftey lever but kept 'em out of way) If using say slightly thicker 14awg then this could really intrude even more at switch area as well as " U " bend and I was gonna go with the other method of using dedicated fet feed/return with wire 4+5 So a direct 16 or 14 awg link to motor - keeping all thicker wire easy n simple and just the old or thinner wire connected to switch - but meant 2 thin or thinner wires going to fet - if running outside of gearbox would there have been enough room on ver 2 box - deffo I think on ver 3 coz many wires run outside box to battery.... Hmmmmm - ok will go with "usual method" no wire 5 and see........ yup was ok with one wire running along outside - just below piston/spring of box and passed back into rear of receiver where the 2 main wires appear - fet signal wire can be pulled either way so not too tight or snagging damn wish I used a tiny bit of duct tape to secure this external wire but she is in there now and as long as I was careful when remove/refitting upper receiver that single external wire 4 will be fine - will tape/secure it next time the box comes out - it does not hit or restrict magwell or mag catch and if I went with 2 wires then suppose I could: run wire 4 on selector side & wire 5 on other or probably just make a small nick/cut/groove if required where box & receiver meet the wire(s) to fet don't need to be very thick but yup re-using the old loom is a good option (what else ya gonna do with the old loom anyway) But though they taking 9-12v say the load/amps is tiny so thinner wire can be used but with care though Even the main 16awg wire used can make the whole process easier or more fiddly if using slicone/rubber 16awg then the wire+insulation will be nearly 3mm thick plus though this is very flexible even the thicker insulation can split/damage easily ETFE or PTFE 16awg silver coated wire is at least 1mm thinner as insulation is thinner but still offers same degree of flexibility OOOOOOooooooopppppppssssssss Soz rambling away a bit - gonna leave it there me thinks - I'm still not happy with the old skool switch and still playing with ideas on a cheaper simple replacement - yeah simple that is laugh (nothing I do or try to explain is simple or straight forward - soz a short simple answer from me is impossible)

Son told me about this but think he wants me get Polar/Tippmann..... (yeah what ya want & what you get are very often 2 different things) anyway good to see we now have a choice coz cancelled an Evike order coz they taking too long to ship doubt if I will order anything this side of chrimbo but New Year - new gun maybe ??? http://www.airsoftgi.com/information.php?info_id=35#Shipping_Policy or just browse http://www.airsoftgi.com

You can also run the signal wire outside the gearbox if room inside box is getting tight (out of front and carefully back to fet in stock if you use the thinner 22/24awg supplied) I ran a wire on the opposite side of selector plate carefully on a ver 2 box (rear wired setup) In fact this keeps the signal wire even shorter than inside box with its cramped " U " bend (only a few inches but they say keep this wire as short as possible) I was gonna go into more detail & options but trying to keep it brief besides I presume by now you got it all sorted anyway

Personally I love the CM18 - got both colours http://www.zerooneairsoft.com/product_info.php?products_id=9133 & http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-combat-machine-cm18-mod1-black-dark-earth.html it is plastic receiver - that don't bother me but I do really like it in looks and use check reviews on zero and LWA the owners do seem very happy with it if metal receiver matters http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc4-g26-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html http://www.airsoftworld.net/g-g-gc16-30th-anniversary-limited-edition-aeg-airsoft-rifle-black.html think of those two I might get the GC16 - I have a tan G26 30th edition and yup its nice but for me: battery is front wired - I prefer rear wired - change stock to fixed stubby/full for easy battery change also that front flip sight is very weak - part of rail but seems plastic and snap off if ya dropped it (think GC16 "may" also be front wired but can't confirm myself) both are metal receivers with limited markings etc so very good value but me personally G&G should of picked at least either Raider or CM18 as Raider has got to be one of their best sellers today if not carbine CM18 only real thing I don't like is flash hider - looks too g36 but unsure what to change it with and it came with a 120 mid-cap, not a 300 hi-cap like others in this price range but can't grumble CM18 has no delta ring wobble coz no delta ring - looks different in its sexy 2-tone black/tan or tan/black rear wired - one of mine has a stubby on there and atm nowt on the rails except the rail covers + grip You won't go wrong really with any of the G&G's carbine raider firehawk cm18 or 2 x ltd editions it is mainly down to YOUR personal choice at end of day - despite what any of us say really Your gun - your choice - any of the above will see ya ok on the field Although it is your choice if you haven't got UKARA and need it 2-toned then it would imho be a shame to see a 30th edition or FireHawk 2-toned as it just looks wrong - very wrong tbh suppose you could get a CM18 - tell them to paint crane stock, rail covers n pistol grip etc... very easy to remove/change if you get UKARA later on but seriously it is your gun so go with what you feel YOU the owner would prefer happy shooting & all that with your G&G

Search fleabay for: Osprey Large Adult knee pads deffo get large - got a medium n large set, they stay up miles better when sprinting coz they got the sleeve and 2 velcro straps - fit pads before boots..... normally they come in set of elbow or elbow + wrist protectors too suppose you could give the large elbow pads to a little kid for their smaller knee's I think they do work well as for bikes/skate so they stay up more than having a pair of knee pads round your ankles like some tart's knickers (not that I skirmish in womens underwear - find that thongs do chaffe a bit in battle)

Happy said about some cheap decent bike/skateboarding ones Blow me he was right - bought a "proper" pair and kept falling down no matter how tight I did them Bought a large adult skate/bike pair for under tenner - works a bloomin charm no falling down They go on with a sleeve plus 2 velcro straps so gotta remove boots or fit first before boots look ok still in just plain black and save this old boy's knees I'm sure you can get them in other colours/styles though think Barbie or Pokemon might not work with loadout but deffo worth considering and £ for £ they do the job better than a "proper" pair of ankle protectors I found

2nd one or fig 3 is the main one most use... desolder one of trigger switch wires and pop onto the other side the thin mosfet wire then goes onto the original point and runs back to fet less messing about, 1 thin extra wire as has been mentioned more important say on rear wired ver 2 - only 1 extra thin wire is passing by the motor entry on ver 2 gearbox !!!! where as using the other fig 2 - you would also have wire 5 & 4 as well as wire 1 passing just behind motor spindle = 3 wires...... OOOppppsssss - I did start to really waffle on about new rewire installs and even by my standards I was going way way too much into detail about pro's con's and another diagram then thought - ahh sod that war n peace novel just say to OP - go with the "usual" or preferred method - 2nd pic or fig 3 Just one thing - dunno what speed or rof you are putting together..... maybe don't test it all out straight away with 11.1v unless you are sure you done your homework you may find with the increase response & rof you may get pre engagement if you go too mad (says the duck with yet another "2 part piston")

got 2 of them - one seems to have a 3.5 sec fuse and other about 5.5 sec fuse (no biggy and marked them so I know if choose to cook them a bit) not quite so quick/easy to reload 'em in battle like oshiboom, need to press down on firm ground - where as oshi - piece of cake to drop another blank in (put pin back in first on oshi with dead blank still in - then pop in new blank) but timed bfg will detonate on soft mud/grass area where as oshi may/may not horses for courses as they say

on CO2 is it say over 328 or 350 for say first 30 or so rounds ?? in other words a bit hot like many CO2 pistols are with fresh bulb hence me saying Green Gas or Butane might be a more wiser or better option (paintball may not be ultra strict on chrono/fps but some sites like mine are very strict) yup CO2 option is good to have but think I would just take an old aeg backup if HPA runs out so think keep the HPA gun simple and drop price a bit and would be more attractive to me