dex

Ultimately it comes down to whatever floats your boat. Some may sneer at milsimers (SAS wannabees, etc) but their having fun doing what they are doing, same as people who just enjoy skirmish games. I do a bit of both and enjoy them for what they are. As to folks paying ridiculous money for kit, it's their money. You wouldn't laugh at someone buying a BMW over a Kia.

Skirmished my new Krytac today, my motor was fine unless I pumped multiple semi shots in a row, in which case it got quite warm. But that was more my fault for not using the full auto. Paired with some Lonex flash mags it did some damage today haha.
 
Very happy with the purchase.
 
- Ant

Just got hold of a Krytac CRB, thought I'd throw up a quick initial impression by way of pros and cons. Hope this is useful for anyone considering buying one.
 
Pros:
- Good packaging, manual.
- Hi cap mag and iron sights are decent quality
- External build quality is very good (with a couple of exceptions below), on par with G&P, VFC etc
- Keymod rail makes for light weight
- Stock is very good with some well thought out features
- Internals are excellent - arguably the best v2 gearbox design around combined with top quality gears, piston, etc and integrated mosfet
- UK version comes with M100 spring (shooting ~340fps with hop off)
- Price compares favourably with AEGs of similar quality (G&P, VFC, etc)
 
Cons:
- Wired with Tamiya connector (FFS why?)
- Flash hider is plastic and cheap looking as well as hard to remove due to being glued on
- Grip is shiny and cheap looking
- No rail sections included for the keymod
- Motor is weak
 
Closing thoughts:
Overall I'm pretty pleased with the CRB. It's light weight, well built and has a top notch gearbox. My only gripes at this stage are with the flash hider (promptly removed via a hair dryer and a bit of persuasion and replaced with a stubby suppressor), the grip (promptly replaced by a MOE) and the motor. I don't know if they ship with a different motor in the UK as I heard good things about the stock ones, but it very weak with sluggish response (compared to my other AEGs) and tons of overspin and a tendency to heat up quickly. Very disappointing. Luckily I had a spare SHS high torque laying around which has sorted things. Anyone thinking of buying a Krytac should factor in the cost of a decent motor.
 
I'll throw in an updated review after skirmishing the CRB a few times.
 

 
 

I thought it was as good as an Shs but not as good as say a lonex.
Still think it sounds like an issue.
Got to agree with the grip its horrible.
 
Actually I was wrong it is neo apparently I thought it was ferrite my bad.

Just got hold of a Krytac CRB, thought I'd throw up a quick initial impression by way of pros and cons. Hope this is useful for anyone considering buying one.
 
Pros:
- Good packaging, manual.
- Hi cap mag and iron sights are decent quality
- External build quality is very good (with a couple of exceptions below), on par with G&P, VFC etc
- Keymod rail makes for light weight
- Stock is very good with some well thought out features
- Internals are excellent - arguably the best v2 gearbox design around combined with top quality gears, piston, etc and integrated mosfet
- UK version comes with M100 spring (shooting ~340fps with hop off)
- Price compares favourably with AEGs of similar quality (G&P, VFC, etc)
 
Cons:
- Wired with Tamiya connector (FFS why?)
- Flash hider is plastic and cheap looking as well as hard to remove due to being glued on
- Grip is shiny and cheap looking
- No rail sections included for the keymod
- Motor is weak
 
Closing thoughts:
Overall I'm pretty pleased with the CRB. It's light weight, well built and has a top notch gearbox. My only gripes at this stage are with the flash hider (promptly removed via a hair dryer and a bit of persuasion and replaced with a stubby suppressor), the grip (promptly replaced by a MOE) and the motor. I don't know if they ship with a different motor in the UK as I heard good things about the stock ones, but it very weak with sluggish response (compared to my other AEGs) and tons of overspin and a tendency to heat up quickly. Very disappointing. Luckily I had a spare SHS high torque laying around which has sorted things. Anyone thinking of buying a Krytac should factor in the cost of a decent motor.
 
I'll throw in an updated review after skirmishing the CRB a few times.
 

 
 

Think you might need to take it back. The krytac motor is probably the best ferrite motor I have seen in an aeg. Your one sounds faulty.

Ultimately it comes down to whatever floats your boat. Some may sneer at milsimers (SAS wannabees, etc) but their having fun doing what they are doing, same as people who just enjoy skirmish games. I do a bit of both and enjoy them for what they are. As to folks paying ridiculous money for kit, it's their money. You wouldn't laugh at someone buying a BMW over a Kia.

Just got hold of a Krytac CRB, thought I'd throw up a quick initial impression by way of pros and cons. Hope this is useful for anyone considering buying one.
 
Pros:
- Good packaging, manual.
- Hi cap mag and iron sights are decent quality
- External build quality is very good (with a couple of exceptions below), on par with G&P, VFC etc
- Keymod rail makes for light weight
- Stock is very good with some well thought out features
- Internals are excellent - arguably the best v2 gearbox design around combined with top quality gears, piston, etc and integrated mosfet
- UK version comes with M100 spring (shooting ~340fps with hop off)
- Price compares favourably with AEGs of similar quality (G&P, VFC, etc)
 
Cons:
- Wired with Tamiya connector (FFS why?)
- Flash hider is plastic and cheap looking as well as hard to remove due to being glued on
- Grip is shiny and cheap looking
- No rail sections included for the keymod
- Motor is weak
 
Closing thoughts:
Overall I'm pretty pleased with the CRB. It's light weight, well built and has a top notch gearbox. My only gripes at this stage are with the flash hider (promptly removed via a hair dryer and a bit of persuasion and replaced with a stubby suppressor), the grip (promptly replaced by a MOE) and the motor. I don't know if they ship with a different motor in the UK as I heard good things about the stock ones, but it very weak with sluggish response (compared to my other AEGs) and tons of overspin and a tendency to heat up quickly. Very disappointing. Luckily I had a spare SHS high torque laying around which has sorted things. Anyone thinking of buying a Krytac should factor in the cost of a decent motor.
 
I'll throw in an updated review after skirmishing the CRB a few times.
 

 
 

Ultimately it comes down to whatever floats your boat. Some may sneer at milsimers (SAS wannabees, etc) but their having fun doing what they are doing, same as people who just enjoy skirmish games. I do a bit of both and enjoy them for what they are. As to folks paying ridiculous money for kit, it's their money. You wouldn't laugh at someone buying a BMW over a Kia.

Real cap mags are for that extra realism i guess. But i think being that its all toy guns, i might as well treat it like a segal movie and not have to reload for an unrealistic amount of time lol
 
Going to my first milsim with okto 8 in december and have a longmoor game next week. Personally, i dont enjoy haphazard nature of a skirmish. I want an objective. Still, its toy guns, and choice.

If your trousers cost more than your gun then you're probably playing milsim.

I dunno who the bloke is in the photo. I do know he'll have a stiff neck and sore shoulders if he keeps that up...

+1 for pdi / prometheus barrels. Personally I've found Madbull ones to be disappointing. Stock g&g tbb from the top techs are actually pretty good.

TM all the way, leave it standard as well.

Prowin hop ups are not made of unicorn shit don't expect magic. Their main selling point is they are well made and durable so should feed well and last forever. They also use a rotary hop adjustment which will hold its setting. Your hop rubber, nub, barrel and air seal are what gives you accuracy. Combined with the right spring strength will give you range.
I have one in an m4. Performance wise it's no better or worse than the stock vfc one in my 416.

Buy a cheap second hand m4, broken and learn to tech on it. There's endless guides and videos online to help you.

I'd basically say leave them be as in my experience changing them both possibly made a marginal difference. On the flipside it didn't harm my gun so if you want to give it a shot look at the details in the forum thread I linked in my first reply. Just be aware it's very easy to kid yourself into thinking it's much better on the basis you spent time and money on it

There's only so much you can expect from any AEG. You are flinging a plastic ball after all. The rule of diminishing returns definitely applies with AEG upgrades.

There's only so much you can expect from any AEG. You are flinging a plastic ball after all. The rule of diminishing returns definitely applies with AEG upgrades.

Is that 95 airsoft metres? E.G 50 actual metres. What kind of barrels do they have? What's the fps and is it consistant?

Is that 95 airsoft metres? E.G 50 actual metres. What kind of barrels do they have? What's the fps and is it consistant?

I got a TR4-18 Light in Tan:
http://www.guay2.com/web/gt_product/TR418_Light.php?lang=en
 
Which was a Gen 3 MOSFET, when i opened the box there was a piece of paper wrapped around the manual saying "YOU CAN USE 11.1V LIPOS WITH THIS GUN, IN FACT USE 11.1V LIPOS".
 
So i immediately did and very quickly noticed that the MOSFET was heating up just to touch, having heard the horror stories about their Gen3 MOSFETs i snipped the wire and installed a GATE PICO AAB instead, better MOSFET with no over heating

I agree. I think the point BrightCandle was making is that using a 7.4 in a AEG with a FET because your afraid to use an 11.1 for fear of blowing the FET is a bit silly.
I tend to combine 11.1s (with a FET), 13:1 gears and a very slow, very high torque motor such as a JG blue to get ridiculous trigger response and good but not silly ROF (~22rps).

This is one of the main points about Mosfets, its meant to make using 11.1 Lipos possible without damaging the trigger contacts. Yeah there are some other benefits of mosfets but this is the big one that most people go for, so if we are limiting the guns to 7.4s or Nimh's because the mosfets can't handle something all the aftermarket ones do then its not doing its job properly and it needs replacing.

Where did you buy this snake oil, and will it work on my PTW?