Lozart

But on a more serious note to try and answer your questions: 1. No it's not easy to get right first time. If you get away with just one sheet of film then you're naturally gifted and should take it up as a profession. Seriously. 2. If you want fiddly little camo designs like the various flavours of digital camo/Kryptek etc then yes it is worth it as having it custom painted makes hydrodipping seem positively cheap by comparison. 3. On its own the hydro film isn't all that durable, you have to top coat it with a lacquer (preferably a matt one of course) to protect it from knocks and scrapes. Getting a decent lacquer finish is an artform all on its own. 4. Technically it's not hard to do in a home environment BUT the activator isn't particularly nice so don't do it in the house. You'll need some tubs big enough to dip your parts in (oo-er missus) too. 5. Is it worth it? It's entirely up to you. Some fishnet tights and some Krylon is WAAAY cheaper but as a result it's getting to be a pretty overdone look (in my opinion). But it works if that's what you want. If you want a Kryptek camo gun then it's pretty much the only way you'll get the look without spending a crapping fortune to have some airbrush wielding lunatic (*ahem) do it for you. Personally? I like black guns. Manly. Grrrr.

First off - find out what the limits are for whatever site you plan on going to. Next, most sites chrono with 0.2g BBs. Third, what gas were you using? It may be as simple as using a lower powered gas will solve your problem.

1) That'll be an L98A2 then (semi auto capable version - the thing in front of the cocking handle is the assist lever) 2) yeah....get it checked. The dust cover should be pulled back by a plastic piece that runs along the side of the cylinder. When you pull the charging handle back you should be able to see the hop up unit so you can adjust it (as in the picture) It could just be that the dust cover has hopped off the plastic retractor or t may be broken. Worth getting it looked at just in case.

Painting. Wondrous handcrafted works of weapon based art. Mona Lisa on an M4....Caravaggio on a waffle mag! Hydrodipping? Might as well ask me to put Hello Kitty stickers on it. The cheek of it.

In addition to the above I would say don't bother with the sight or the laser (especially the laser). Save your money for extra mags/chest rig/eye protection. Oh and +1 on the G&G CM16.

It's not a DMR though is it?

11.1v LiPos can cause longevity issues with gearing due to the increased rate of fire they produce. They can also cause premature failure of the trigger contacts due to the extra current they produce resulting in more frequent arcing (which can be solved with a MOSFET). HOWEVER - they will not chew your gun to pieces overnight unless you bought a spectacularly bad gun in the first place (most likely from somewhere with "BBGUNS" in the name). A G&G Top Tech should be fine for a reasonable time on an 11.1 out of the box BUT I would suggest that 7.4v LiPos would be plenty (or indeed 9.6v NiMh).

Sony only just stopped making PS2s last year (in Japan granted but there you go).

Companies will continue to develop for last gen for a while yet, there's a massive customer base that hasn't bought in to the new hardware and probably won't until at least the first major price drop.

I would suggest you actually use an L98 in cadets. May of which have a plain barrel extension rather than a "birdcage" style flash hider. Like these: The M4 that your CM16 replicates is supposed to have a flash hider. Leaving it off will just make it look like you've broken your gun. When you pull the charging handle back it SHOULD pull the ejection port dust cover back allowing you to gain access to the hop up adjuster, like this: If that's not the case either you're not pulling it back far enough or there's something wrong with it and you should get it looked at.

The metal receiver won't have the loops you refer to. The upper slides on from the front.

Fill your boots mate!

Go take a look at the Replica Prop Forum www.therpf.com they have loads of foam builds on there (including Iron Man, Mass Effect, WH40K). It's not hard to do but it's tricky to do well.

Two questions - one, what do you mean about never using the flash hider again and two by "the thing behind the sights" do you mean the charging handle (the bit you pull back to get at the hop unit)?

Just to go back to the practicality issue, I notice you've got a SCAR H and a Desert Eagle. If these are your main guns then they will most likely dictate what pouches/holsters you can reasonably use. You certainly won't be looking at things like a Recon Chest Rig for example (they're generally only compatible with 5.56mm mags). There's LOADS of surplus desert kit floating about out there for very little money so maybe start with a DDPM UBACS shirt and trousers. Over that I'd look for a tan MOLLE chest rig or plate carrier so you can start finding mag pouches that will fit. Duty belt to hang a holster from (separate from whatever holds your trousers up), plus the holster (ask Black Death which ones he uses as I believe he dual wields DEagles). Also - boots. If you're wearing trainers now, look for decent lightweight ones otherwise your legs will die after half a day! Meindl Desert Foxs are good and light and gettable for about £40 surplus (not waterproof mind).

MOE AEG grip - the TM original on my M4 is starting to strip the screws in the baseplate 40mm gas MOSCARTs to replace my ZCA ones that just don't work reliably.

That is possibly the funniest thing I've seen all week. Thanks for posting that!

It actually looks a lot like some of the guns in Mass Effect. And THAT armour is a LOT more practical.....

You know how you only ever see Stormtroopers doing a funny little jog in the movies? Never actually running? Yeah....that.

I don't do the whole "replica" loadout thing so mine's more what works (for me at least) - Coyote tan BDU trousers (because they have plenty of pockets and double reinforced seat and knees plus the have plenty of room to move about) a UBACS shirt for the wicking body (for the sweating) and heavier sleeves (for the protection). Tan baseball cap and boots to finish off. Start with what works and go from there really.

Just as an aside - if it's still got the original TM motor and it says EG1000 on the side, leave it alone until it breaks (if it breaks) it's plenty high enough torque for an M100 spring. I run mine on 7.4 LiPos and it's fine (and it's connected through standard Tamiya connectors too by the way).

I knew there was something I didn't like about you....

Yeah, damn businesses trying to make money. Damn them all to hell.

Just to go back to your original point though - you won't get a higher rate of fire from the MOSFET alone, a higher power battery will help but if you're looking for silly high numbers (25rps and up) then you're into changing gear ratios, swiss cheesing the piston etc etc. Just wanted to clarify that. Not sure if you realised is all.