Unrustle_Thine_Jimmies

Yeah,I have very good experience with Tamiya. I especially love their paint marker which is great for adding chipped paint wear- Coupled with panel line accent color,a little bit of dry brushing and it gives some very convincing worn effects- The Tieren especially looked great, Exia with wear also looked nice,I much prefer it over the shiney-perfect-condition-after-slaughtering-half-an-army look most gundams have

I'm thinking of picking up some basic models of tanks or something just to have something other to do during the 1-2 weeks where I can't go to skirmishes or milsims. I have experience with Gundam Models,built a Real Grade Exia and a 1/100 Tieren ground type. Sold them off to fund the VSR- I've since sort of lost interest for Gunpla and want to move onto Realistic military stuff. Thing is I have no idea what brands and have a bad concept of what scale would be for them. Things I'm interested in Particular is the T84 or T84 Oplot-M with it's strange western/soviet style turret- Soviet tanks in general are fine,though modernized ones would be preferred,like a PT-91 Twardy or even a T72M2 Moderna.Obscure things like the MBT-70 would be cool too. I'm pretty sure I saw A T84 and a Pt91 in a shop once. So my Question are: Are there any brands known for good or bad quality stuff? What scale would be best for mid range detail,lower price and not many tiny little parts that get lost all the time? I remember working on a 1/35 Ural 4320 model that was an Absolute PITA due to the amount of tiny parts which were impossible to glue on without covering them in the stuff or not being able to get placement without an hour with tweezers.

I pretty much always have my M65 jacket tied around my waist and run around in a thicker than usual long sleeve t shirt. I find this is sufficient in non rainy and windy weather down to 10c or less,I move around a fair bit however. I also picked the Slav race on startup so I have a +5 resistance to cold. If it does get windy or rainy I quickly throw off my rig and put on my jacket. I avoid having heavy insulation around my legs. I've already been having breathing and stamina issues due to a lung and sinus infections and being excessively warm makes me a very slow mover and just causes me to go limp. I prefer having a little prick of cold to get me going. Before I would have shown up in layers and layers of shit but I realized all that is going to come off eventually,so may as well come slim and just move my arse to keep warm

I'll need to do some research on that-Still need to find some info on their Electronic trigger that isn't marketing bollocks. The other trigger,with microswitches they used did tend to fail on 11.1s,however,although generally lasting a little bit longer than standard contacts but still an 'inevitable' failure.

Unless Piston AOE is corrected,gears are shimmed well,has a mosfet and good shock absorption on the front of the shell it isn't long term reliable on an 11.1v lipo. It will either eat it's piston or fry it's trigger contacts. On the bushings v Bearings debate- Bearings are good if they are over 8mm in diameter so they can hander higher loads. They are also best placed on the sector and bevel gear since load is more-or-less equally divided on the two sides. Spur gear should have bushings since most of the load is shifted to one side. Bushings are harder to fuck up for manufacturers too,so lemons are much less common. Retailer is just trying to make a sell. Low end Chinese guns have been coming with neodymium high torque motors and some of the strongest stock steel gears about since 2008 or so,that's the 'standard' really for a gun tbh. I don't think anyone other than Marui uses non steel gears and even then TM only make Zinc sector gears,the others are just a weak alloy.

Do you have the seller's internal work list? I'm really curious.

Screeching is either bevel-Pinion shimming related,or a bearing part has fallen into the geartrain- Clean out the GB fully,any metal shavings in grease. My personal method for shimming(With M4s) Is to first install the motor and bevel only-I have a custom M4 pistol grip just for bevel-pinion shimming,It's a ABS plastic Marui grip- ABS plastic since it's less liable to have tolerance errors from casting. It also has a window cut out for viewing motor meshing. Anyway,I put the whole thing together. Then move use one of the holes in the shell to check bevel movement. I allow 1mm-1.5mm of up/down movement and 2mm max for side to side movement. Too much side to side will mean poor meshing,too little will mean screeching. It's all trial and error after that. Take off one half,add or remove shims,check alignment with pinion. I hope I've made my self understandable I got all of this from AirsoftMechanics, a video called 'Shut up Gears!' and A shimming guide by 'kalashnikob1' Spring guides with bearings love to come apart. I always loctite the threading to keep it together. AR latch is out of place but I assume it's because you've released it from the bevel.

Those read 'One,Two Three' from the top one down. Previous owner seems to like to stay authentic!

I think the only Airsoft gun ''Made in the USA'' was the UTG Model 4 Combat Commando- It was a mix of low end Chinese parts jammed together in the USA,IIRC. Essentially the same quality as a JG metal M4 but at twice the price.

I should post this in DIY, but Whatever. This is some unknown Soviet,Ukrainian,East German,maybe even Czech leather holster. I have no Idea,too big for a Makarov,too wide for a TT33. Only really hold M9s and Hicapas well. The leather on it is really nice,bit soft and floppy but stiffer in the lower sections. Plan to boil it later. Originally the leather clip to retain the piston was pretty crappy. So I got rid of it. It had another strap and clip which was pretty useless hanging from the bottom so I cut that off and stuck it on the main body,currently temporarily glued on. It had the usually sh*tty belt loop which sat too high and got weaker from age. When a pistol was placed in the whole holster sagged and flopped around. So I got rid of that,punched four holes in,and use paracord to secure it to ALICE webbing holes. Sits nice and low so the weight does not make it sag to the side and does not wobble. Also bent the lower piece seen in pic 1 so that it catches the trigger guard,if it goes in fully into the holster the pistol usually flops around inside a bit,especially thinner guns like 1911s. So I bent it to add some tension and hold better. Yet to use in a skrim but I'm confident it will be a big improvement over the original. Rig is a little scant at the moment since I'm waiting on some pouches along with the rest of my kit from Ukraine. I sort of have an idea in my head to carve out the basic shape of a hicapa(My planned next gun) and stick it in when the holster is being boiled to make it a medieval Serpa or something. Right now it's grand though.

No point on ghillie netting op\n the stock since your arm will be covering it! It'll just be there to snag on everything and annoy you. Right now that's Ideal for good concealment and ergonomics. Controls are free,mag is free while the big pointy bits are all obscured. Ian_Gere will be better on SVD camo,I never bothered to add camo to my gun since I move around too much.

I'm not trained in anything but I do carry basic antiseptic stuff like Zelenka and Perekis (Don't know the english for them,sorry) Zelenka is a strong antiseptic that gets it's name from leaving a green stain on skin for a long time. Perekis is a mix between some sort of quick clotting thing and an antiseptic,helps reduce bleeding,it's mostly used for nosebleeds but works excellently for smaller cuts,like a nick of a knife or a thorn. Also have some bandages in my pack. Staff on site are all medically trained,I just carry this for bad scenarios,the site I play it is 400 acres large so I'm bound to be hiking along and some bugger of a thorn could cut my arm or something,it's happened before.

I think the longest shooting airsoft sniper rifle is a right tarted up VSR with all custom machined parts and a new designed hop up. Shoots 110m absolute max with the grouping of a small car. I think it was the Mantis by 'Careful' on ASSF. You can get an airsoft sniper rifle shooting up to 100m but it will not be skirmishable and groupings will be all over the palce

What brand is it? If it';s a WELL stay the fuck away unless you like unnecessary stress and a Machine shop. JG And TM are the best safe options for VSRs. He's hurrying on a fair bit with all this. Better to do some research on what parts he will need to get the most for his money.

For the VSR Gspec or Pro you will need to replace the piston and sears. Replace those parts will a steel catch piston and a steel sear set. This will give you great reliability ~M120 spring. To do this you will need a new cylinder and cylinder head since marui have started crimping them meaning they will be destroyed if removed. The gun will last decently stock,my sears and piston shit themselves at ~10,000 rounds but I think mine MAY have been a lemon,but that said the 45* mech design is already not great for high power let alone pot metal sears and a plastic piston. Another option is to move to a 90* degree system which will be 100% reliable over an M150. Pricey option but you can save money by buying small custom made triggers like the S trigger. You can even use a lathe to get the stock piston to a 90* catch,a few people on AirsoftSniperForum have done this and have been running them on powerful springs with no failure. A&K M24 comes with a steel Cylinder,Aluminium piston,90* trigger system with steel sears. Compatibility-Trigger most likely VSR and piston/cylinder may be VSR or APS Type 96. Gun is a PITA to take apart due to loctite spam. Otherwise cylinder has a great air seal and the gun has amazing stock reliability. Downside is the hop up unit and mounting blok is different but the hop up takes VSR internals(Hop up arm,feed system,rubber,barrel,etc...) Scopes- Any 3-9x40 or less even,4x is grand most of the time will do. Most are made by the same few Chinese OEMs. I;ve had great luck with ASG strike scopes

More money needs to be saved. TM Gspec is good but You need to replace a lot of parts for full reliability,even more since TM started crimping cylinder heads. JG BAR 10 is a great bet,cheap and fully compatible. A&K M24 has probably the best stock internals of every mass produced sniper rifle in airsoft but compatibility is spotty(However that can be sorted with some measuring since there is no real source for all of it) WELL L96 V3 is hit or miss quality wise but a good upgrade platform That's a barebones rundown. On the A&K m24 I'm trying to get some things sorted with a mate of mine in Ukraine who owns one so we can get dimension of internal parts to see what fits what.

Also suggesting dialing back on the gun. Combat machines are very nice rifles. The Nylon bodies are very often stronger than the zinc and aluminum crap alloys used in guns. Guts are more or less identical,so performance will be close to the top techs. Using the money saved on some good boots. They make a world of difference man. Ones that are often recommended are German Kampfstiefel 2000 boots, indestructible known to last a very long time. Offer great ankle support. The Mk7s can often be found in grade 1 condition around the 40 pound mark. British Pro boots are great too. They're goretex lined so won't soak. I've waded through marshes and played in bucketing rain and my feet have always been bone dry. Also offer excellent ankle support. Only thin I'd say is that the soles are not the strongest things ever. German Bergstiefel boots are a bit more expensive but Have very knobby soles which offer great grip. Then you also have your high end Haix,Lowa and Meindl boots.(These 3 also OEM Kampfstiefel and bergstiefel boots,their own name stuff is a bit more expensive) Pricey but the quality is fantastic.

In this case,form leads to function

If you can afford a gun with better externals,always go for better externals. Internals can always be tuned or upgraded,but good luck upgrading your body/externals without making your bank manager angry. I'd go for G&P. Much nicer bodies,stronger and feel better. Internals are standard fare,Spur gears are known to break at the axle but it's a hit and miss thing. Hop up units are certainly not the best but serviceable,often need bedding in. Otherwise it'll shoot just as well as most stock AEGs.

I was replying to GiantKiwi,my phone didn't want to let me quote him

LCT don't make a Bizon,yet. They only announced that it's 'coming soon' a month or so ago. That was the Silverback Bizon. The Silverback has a sexy hop up unit and out of the box accuracy as well as full steel construction IIRC but a lot of people have found it lacking,not many like the crappy selector for example and the cumbersome mag.

Dark Tranquility - Emptier still https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGUtebRY38M Be'Lakor- Abeyance

STGW 57