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Daytona Gun. Recoil, loud noise, no electronics but still a rate of fire up to about 20rps on the lighter bolt systems. It's extremely accurate when combined with an R-Hop and a wider bore barrel once the break-in is done. Cons are huge air consumption (you'll want a 4500 tank) and highest initial cost of any HPA option. Also getting parts and help when you start is a bit of a hassle, but not impossible. Oh and the 10k break-in is a little annoying as you get choppers, flyers and varying FPS for that time.

You can get good paint results if you know what Youtube video to follow

I know I posted this before, but now it's complete and not leaky (yay):

Two different fittings for Scuba tanks: DIN and Yoke. That's a Yoke Scuba tank valve in the video so the 'screw in' ones won't work with it (Yoke has no threads). I have one of the screw in DIN ones that you now have too. The Yoke ones will fit onto DIN with an absolutely terrible seal, so I can see why many people would think it's the fill station going wrong rather than a compatibility issue. Did you by any chance accidentally buy a Yoke fill station for your DIN tank? Most 232bar tanks are Yoke, so most retailers stock the Yoke stations as the 3000psi option. It's an easy mistake to make, and not one that enough retailers explain. Yoke vs DIN Yoke fill station (as seen in the video) DIN fill station

Ew.

Some urban/CQB sites enforce the use of only lighter BBs because of Joule creep. The heavier weights also preserve energy whilst in flight better than lighter ones (I believe this was mentioned earlier in the thread) and that's primarily why you really want to be using .25s as they're the near-perfect balance between how quickly your BB is going to reach its target (essentially making it easier to 'lead' when people are moving) and their superior energy conservation when compared to .20s (so it drops off much later). I've been trying .30s recently and they're slow in the air, but in theory they should go on and on. Problem is, a lot of people mistake heavier BBs for people cheating. I've seen this happen a few times as being hit with a 0.20 BB at 20m will be a lot less felt than being hit with a 0.30 BB at 20m despite the fact that they were both crono'd on .20 at 350fps at the start of the day.* *I should say though that crono-ing GBBRs and HPA systems with .20 is one of the silliest things sites do because it leaves them wide open to Joule creep. Maybe a topic for another time. tl;dr: 0.25s should really be used as a baseline standard for the majority of players, but some people like .20s because they get to the target quicker and are a little cheaper (even if they don't go as far).

There's no need if the issue is what I think it is - simply the silent-fill o-ring dropping out and he thinks it's leaking. They can be replaced very easily. Even if it's not that, removing and disassembling the fill valve is a 30 second job and it's just a single spring and second o-ring inside (again, an easy fix). Not one that requires a complete replacement of the part I should think. These gasses are never at a high enough pressure to even warp brass in such a small vessel, so 99% of the issues people have are seal-related and shouldn't need anything more than some lube or (in the worst case) a new seal (i.e. o-ring or gasket). Generally you're only going to see wear on the metal where it's been dropped or over really extended periods of time (I'm talking 3+ years).

Hope you didn't go hicrap hero in the end except for that break-in mag.

They will check. They will all check.

Most of the time a fix is just the o-rings. Even if you don't feel like risking it with a generic set, Lees does premade sets which will do 3-4 repairs for £5. A simply valve key (another £5) and you're away. Certainly try maintenance gas first, but even the TM mags (with the exception of a few) are tough as old boots and just need the occasional replaced seal. Once you have two or three you're good for years. If you want to throw it away then I'll buy it from you. Easy fix

I have a real soft spot for tan rails on black receivers.

Just to the point where you can get to all the seals. Usually this means everything though - fill valve, outlet valve and also the base plate. Maintenance gas is good, but at some point you should be disassembling to clean the o-rings apart from anything. When depends on so many variables that I'd advise every two games, but you can certainly get away with much longer than that. The o-ring can't 'pop out' of the fill valve unless it's the 'silent-fill' one (which shouldn't have a baring on the overall reservoir seal). This leak you're getting, is this only when filling or continuous?

Are we talking fill valves or output valves? Do you know where the leak is coming from? Could be the base plate as well. Perhaps the old soapy water test would be handy. Either way, it's generally just an o-ring. Even the cheapest of pot metal valves don't tend to break where the springs or actual metal are; you've probably just blown a seal. Without seeing it I couldn't advise on compatibility (probably couldn't even if I did), but I can say that a generic small o-ring set of decent quality (I prefer Nitrile but many just use normal rubber) will be able to fix it up. If you don't want to do that, then this at least will provide you with what you need to fix your KJW magazine: http://www.leesprecision.com/collections/all-repair-rebuild-kits/products/o-ring-repair-kit-for-kj-works-pistol-magazines Remember, always keep your magazines gassed slightly when storing them. Don't expel all of the gas at once and be sure to disassemble and lube them at least once every two games.

I'd imagine they already are.

My .30 tracers seem fine too, but when they've been so inconsistent with early batches (and when a lot of those BBs are still in circulation) then they deserve the reputation they get.

Yup, they're very decent and seem consistent. Not like Nuprol.

Obviously there are exceptions to that, but they're certainly a brand to avoid for your first unless you're happy with tinkering if something does go wrong.

Ares are alright externally but are known to fall apart very quickly. They have some niche designs that aren't always the most reliable or functional.

Yep, they're fine.

Na, it won't be delayed that long. Remember, it's a block of metal at this point, not an RIF. Should be released Wednesday I'd imagine, but phone in as soon as it's at your Parcelforce depot (I know I said national hub before but that's wrong). They only dispatch the letter once it's there.

That just means it's awaiting inspection, then it'll go on to get duty added. Takes a couple of days. Parcelforce pay the duty for you, slap on £8 then forward the bill to you. The second that reaches the Parcelforce national hub you can phone in and ask an agent to pay a charge (provide the tracking number). They'll do it there and then and you won't have to wait for the letter. Saves about 2-3 days.

I dunno man. The neighbours are already on edge from the 6000rd break-in. Maybe when I next go to a game (shouldn't be long).

A decent carbine length M4 would suit woodland and CQB equally - wouldn't worry too much about that. Depends on how big you are too, but carbine lengths are great for everything really. Trigger response is more important in CQB really than barrel length. That's why a more expensive AEG may give you the edge I feel. GBBRs are cool. Wouldn't recommend them to someone new and the cost of one will use that whole £400 budget if you want a decent number of magazines.

I've run into an issue with my M249 that plenty of us have had - locking down the inner and outer barrel so the inner isn't wobbling around in there. This is particularly a problem with the Daytona kits because they shake a lot and any rattling is severely detrimental to accuracy. I've use electricians' tape in the past, but I find it's too spongy to really make the barrel cease movement completely. The obvious solution is just simple shimming with anything like thin bits of metal or plastic. I was just wondering if anyone else had done anything similar in the past and had any wisdom to share on this?

Hey. Welcome to the site. Are you going for a defence first so that you can order an RIF or just 2-tone? Given that you only need to wait another month and attend one more game after the one you're going to this week, I'd say getting a site membership and UKARA may be the better option. Not sure if you're going for that or not. So the general rule with airsoft is that barrel length doesn't mean a whole lot. You do generally get more FPS from a longer barrel, but equally that can be done with shorter barrels and with AEGs is mostly dependant on the cylinder and spring you're using anyway as longer barrels need a larger volume of air to propel that BB. Accuracy tends to depend on your hop and the quality and/or width of barrel rather than length. For this reason, MP5s and M4s are not intrinsically different when it comes to their performance. What matters more is the manufacturer and any aftermarket parts you've added to it (such as a new barrel, new hop unit/rubber). If you're just starting out but are happy with spending that much money then my best advice would be to drop the pistol and put a good deal of that money (say £180-250+) into a rifle then spend the rest on some gear, ammo and all that stuff. Pistols are fun, sure, but they're pricey and really you very rarely get to use them (especially when playing woodland). May be something to consider. As for what brand to get: ICS and G&G are well recommended as both entry-level and mid-tier guns. If you have a larger budget you can obviously get something that performs slightly better, but airsoft is all about how much you're comfortable with spending. You don't need to spend £400 on a single gun to get something that's going to compete well. This guide explains some of the starting-out stuff and touches on UKARA and defences too. This index of links may also help. In the end it's up to you. If you want to spend £400 on both a pistol and a gun then consider an ICS or G&G M4 and a WE pistol. That should leave you with up to £150 spare for everything else. As I said though, pistols aren't entirely necessary. If I were starting out today I'd shop around and find something I really like the look of for £300 like a Krytac M4. That said, AKs, the SA80 family, SMGs like MP7s, MP5s etc. are all viable options if you get the right brand. What do you like the look of? Have you tried anything out when you last went? It may be worth handling some other peoples guns when you go this Sunday and see what you like the feel of - people are usually more than happy to let you try them out.