proffrink

Arent WE 416s CCW and the sound hog CW? If so, I got an outer-barrel extension that converted my WOC to CCW and was the same width and finish as the existing barrel. Got it from Airsoft Machine Shop, but their web store seems to be closed now. Also they get a lot of mixed reviews on their higher end work, but I guess they can't really screw up a barrel extension. May be worth contacting them.

Well, ORGA make them in all the normal lengths. As do PDI for the 6.08s. Just don't get the Delta Strike because of the plastic window as previously mentioned. Don't worry about getting it cut - you'll get it right first time if you just measure it. Mine was about 4cm longer than it should have been as it's a 500mm, but the idea always was that would go inside a thread adapter anyway for the amplifier so it's perfect now.

Or just buy a barrel that's the right length. I thought you hadn't bought it yet :S

Yeh, you'll want it professionally done and crowned as that can screw with your airflow if done wrong. I think Airlab does it if you're struggling to find somewhere, but I'm sure there are plenty of places out there. Preferably you'll just measure it right and get it right the first time But er, stay away from those aluminium ones like Madbull and others.

Please don't say stuff like this to new players.

Second the Cat Crap. Seems to last a bit longer than others I've tried. Here's another thread where we discussed this: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/27833-anti-fog/ Jedi is right though. This is a well documented problem that you probably could have found the solution to a lot quicker with a search.

No, you have not - that's in this thread. In the majority of springers you cannot just upgrade a spring. Most (including A&K) are made to a spec. to allow up to a certain spring tension. Swap that out with something more powerful and you're going to blow seals or bust your sear. Usually the trigger mech and cylinder (and guide) are required upgrades for a higher-tension spring. Then the hop unit, barrel and spacers. You cannot approach any springer upgrade with a handful of pocket change and expect good results. This was mentioned many, many times in that other thread.

Have you learnt absolutely nothing from that other thread?

If you're using a stock barrel then as a rule most aftermarket barrels will help to come degree. Most stock barrels are a bit naff - especially A&K from my limited experience. A wide bore is definitely the way to go with an R-Hop patch though. The cushion of air you get with 6.08 is rather beneficial when it comes to lifting heavier BBs. Only go tight bore if you want that extra fps or a generic improvement over a stock barrel really. Check the patch too. They may have bodged it.

Eh, I've never worn anything but full-seal because I've heard of things like this. I know the argument for fog and comfort but eyesight is simply too valuable to be. The videos are out there. I think it's fair to say there's enough information for each person to come to an informed decision on their own, so there's no need to enforce it. Obviously making sure below 16/18s have it is a good idea, but I think most if not all sites already do that. At the end of the day if nothing else you own your own body. So long as insurance criteria is met for the site owner then what you wear should be completely up to you.

Prometheus/Laylax/First Factory and PDI make great barrels. ORGA for wider bores too, but PDI make a good 6.08. Is a tight bore the best option for a sniper rifle though? Wide bore will give a slightly more consistent hop if you have the fps to play with.

I addressed that 6 posts ago already. That's kind of the entire point of every post on this page. At least you've finally got it The site limit everywhere is already done in Joules. They just do it as 350fps (or 335) on 0.20g BBs because this is meant to be easier for people to understand. A hard Joule limit is universal, and that's why it should be used more often in my opinion as it stops Joule creep and means people can use whatever weight they like to crono with. The issue is that means site managers need a basic understanding of the way it works (most do already) and a calculator (or just a conversion chart). Also players need to put some effort in, but when we're still grappling with the age old 'FPS = range' conundrum when it comes to new players, I think it'd be too much to ask them to learn some GSCE physics too in some cases. Site limits are either ~1J or just over (335fps) or ~1.15J (350fps). Obviously there are significant margins here because not every batch of the same gun cronos identically out of the box, and not every cronograph is the same.

Yeh, you still don't get the difference between the speed the BB is travelling at and the energy it has. Hey ho, you'll get it at some point. I'd put the example in reverse and say that a .20g BB travelling 99.9% the speed of light is going to have the energy of a couple of rather large hydrogen bombs, but a 1 ton BB travelling at 5fps is not. Please research this further: http://www.airsoftmaster.com/fps-chart-for-airsoft-guns/

If you don't have the money for something new then the probability is that you don't have the money for upgrading either. Again, it can get expensive (not always, but it can). Shimming and fiddling with AoE are also not the most straightforward things to do if you're just starting out. There are loads of Youtube videos though so don't let this discourage you.

Double post because different subject, but I will explain this for maybe the 3rd time this month (and I'm pretty sure you've posted in other threads I've explained this). Energy is not the same as speed. When a site wants to crono your gun, what they're really looking at is muzzle energy (or muzzle 'velocity' as some people call it), but they keep it to FPS so as to not confuse people. Frankly, I think it confuses more people because then someone like yourself can quite innocently think that using a higher weight to slow down the BB is fine. It isn't, and in fact when people say 'cheating the crono' then this is the primary tactic they're referring to - disguising heavier weight BBs as lighter ones (either through just saying they're .20g when they're not, or putting them in a .20g bottle). The best way to picture it for the future is that a crono is only done with .20g BBs (again I think this is something that's stupid due to Joule creep but that's a subject for another time). If you're over 350 or 335 (or whatever the site limit is) with .20s then that's bad. You cannot use heavier BBs to decrease the speed at which they travel because the muzzle energy remains the same. An extreme example is that getting hit with a 185 ton train going 350fps is going to hurt a lot more than a .20g BB going at 350fps, but by your logic these would feel the same. Energy is measured in Joules here, and 350fps with a .20g BB equates to about 1.14J - with a .30g BB this same speed 350fps is 1.71J; a lot more energy so it's going to hurt more. 1.14J with a .30g BB is 270fps however, and so that's what you need to crono at with a .30g BB. Here's a chart to help: The reason people use heavier BBs is they lose that energy a lot slower as they travel through the air and so don't drop off quite as quickly but the trade off is that you need a better hop as the BB requires more backspin to stay in a flatter trajectory for longer (which can mean you need modifications to your gun).

We've all been there man, but If you're new to airsoft you really need to take it slow and do your research - is that not the vibe you've been getting from this thread? Upgrading is sometimes expensive, requires knowledge and a lot of patience to do right. 'Learning' in the case of airsoft usually means just reading through forum stuff. Think of something cool, then go and research it to see if anyone else has done it. In the case of an M4 'DMR' - it's been done a million times and isn't just a case of slapping a £40 scope onto an existing gun, but requires a lot of fine tuning and effort to get right. Do it now - when you clearly don't even know the difference between speed (i.e. FPS) and energy (i.e. Joules) and you're poorly equipped and just set up for failure. It's really tempting to dive right in, but by god have I seen it go badly so many times. You need only look at some of the monstrosities people are selling on Facebook to see those who haven't done their due diligence first. There are plenty of guns out there - like the M14 TacMaster is on about - that requires little effort to turn into something that'll go further than your average. Just be aware that the DMR rules at Ravens might not be what you're after. In fact, I always kept my DMR to under 350fps and it's such a small site that I imagine they don't have a rule for semi-only stuff. Also, they don't crono there much so you need to be doubly-careful that you're within site limits because it's the only local in the Ipswich area and is mostly built on trust from regulars.

Update on this. Made another two orders since the last time I posted. Neither have gone quite to plan. The first they sent me the wrong shells for a Marui M870 without telling me they were out of stock of the colour I ordered. Granted, functionally they're identical but I felt like they must have known at the time and never sent a courtosy e-mail so I could order elsewhere. Obviously a return was out of the question as that's a lot of money and would probably make up about 50% of what I paid. Just recently I ordered some very niche RA-Tech magazines that are out of stock everywhere but three places I could find. I e-mailed them a week beforehand to ensure the item was in stock (it said so on the webpage, but as said above that doesn't always mean they have it). They never replied but I made the order anyway. Low and behold it was out of stock, but they shipped the rest of the other (literally just some replacement M870 springs) and didn't say a thing until I e-mailed them asking why. They've finally refunded me for the magazines after saying I could wait until they were back in stock and then going back on that by saying they weren't going to get any more in stock any time soon (the magazines are likely discontinued so this is no surprise, but they still dilly-dallied for two days before saying this). All in all, I can't recommend them anymore. Their selection is good, but their service is utter bullshit and their less-than-honest approach towards shipping you items you never ordered (basically items of different colour) then hiding behind their 'money back guarantee' (for which you must pay the return fee) is absolutely scummy to say the least (see my bit about G18c sights and M870 shells/magazines). Avoid. There are plenty of other small retailers in HK that deserve your patronage more.

Pink or orange.

There are a bajillion guides that explain this in more depth than I could even if I sat here writing for an hour, but dex has basically answered this. If you want a figure I'd say £250-300 ontop of the donor.

Don't bother then; it won't compete. The TM VSR is your best bet if you still really want one for some reason though. An upgrade kit that cheap will either be inconsistent or destroy your sear. Upgrading any springer is rarely as simple as replacing a spring.

JG BAR-10 if you are going to completely upgrade it; TM VSR-10 if you're not. Use Google man. We're not a replacement for light manual labour.

Essentially they're the same as they both have a larger bore internal diameter, but the IGL circumvents any 6mm macro so is neater and gives the most optimum air flow (which matters with something like Daytona Gun, but not Polarstar, SMP etc.). It's just a slightly more durable and complete solution really. There's no push fitting that can go wrong, and installing one is pretty easy.

Grip connect connects to the macro line inside the grip or stock, but the IGL connects straight onto the engine. Better to get an IGL or DIGL as it's more durable (no push fittings at all), but does require disassembly to install (though it's super easy). The grip connect is a Redline product that was about before the IGLs.

Could you turn the magazine so we can see the output valve?

AEG only. I got the 6.23. A lot recommend the 6.08(?). Regardless, any decent wide bore will do except for Delta Strike (Prometheus/Layla's/Fire Factory) as they have a plastic hop window. Also don't get an aluminium one as they're known to warp. The best brands only use steel or brass anyway.