proffrink

Well currently it's a 50cm barrel so it's already the longest you can get. Should I slap a scope on and call it a dee emm arr?

In completely unrelated news, I shall now be attaching a 500cm long suppressor to my M249 for all cronos.

EdGI do wide bore barrels? Depends on your window size, but if you're going for a heavy weight and extended window, the HSA M-nub is a good idea ontop of any hop lever (as you'll want to sand it/at a slight angle for a flat hop) but not always worth the hassle with the VSR arm. If not, the Biro mod really exists because of the VSR given its kind of 'split' hop arm. This is the same with the JG BAR, and is a good way to provide a slightly more even surface for the R-Hop patch. You could buy the DangerWerx hop arm or - like I say - just do the Biro mod to get the same 'type B' flat surface. IIRC, the type A (i.e. two 'prongs'/split) design is best for flat hop up buckings and the type B (the flat/joined one) is best for W-hold type split buckings. The R-Hop isn't really either of these though as it's both very flat and also quite a long surface (indeed, that's the idea of the whole design). That's why I'd recommend modifying the arm yourself and using an extended M-nub so the surface is as flat as possible. That's if you're wanting to lift very heavy weights, and by all accounts it's the strongest hop one can get these days. If you're going for around .30s-.40s I'd say stick with the standerd length R-Hop, and that means you could probably get away with a type B Biro mod. If you're going for an extended hop window for weights above .40s, I'd consider modifying the arm yourself to accommodate an extended M-nub as the standard hop arm just isn't going to spread that pressure correctly.

Aye. I'd also say the FPS drop over the first metre is going to be so negligible it probably won't even show up during your crono.

Hiking socks and gel insoles are my go-to. Seriously on the insoles - they work goddamn wonders and are less than £10 for a decent pair on eBay.

Depends on a bunch of things. The Biro mod isn't a one-size-fits-all solution to hop arms, but that's what it's for - providing a firm nub or extension to a hop arm where there simply isn't enough material to press the hop up rubber enough. In the VSR, for example, it provides an even surface that the original arm didn't. In an AEG there are generally better ways of applying pressure. M Nubs are good for a totally nub, but then it comes down to your bucking because they're not ideal for conventional ones and can require the hop lever to be modified so they stay flat. Equally the Biro mod isn't ideal on standard nubs as a lot of the medium and softer ones are designed to flex slightly when in contact with the BB (indeed they all are). Yes, it can be any ballpoint. The bit you want is about the top few centimetres of the plastic cylinder that holds the ink (take it from the very top or you'll end up pretty messy). You then cut this down to suit your hop unit. I guess the quick answer to your question would be 'no' - the Bic mod alone won't improve your range. I think I saw you post in that thread with the other guy who had range problems before. First off, take the advice in that thread we gave to the other guy if you can and get yourself on .25s ASAP if you've not already. Secondly, check your hop bucking is clean from any silicone and not torn. Thirdly, look down the inner barrel when you have it removed and check the rubber is actually protruding as it should. Remember, you want to be able to place a BB in there and have it stay even when the barrel is pointing down. If it's not even at that stage you are dramatically underhopping. From there it's just a case of fine tuning. Go early to a game, set up a target and dial in the hop. If your FPS is consistent and around 320-350, then the only thing that can be affecting your trajectory is either the weight of the BB, the amount of backspin it's getting from the hop and the condition of the barrel. Assuming your barrel isn't completely bent, you should be getting at least 40m with even the most half-arsed hop adjustments.

I'll comment on what I can. BBs There are quite a few decent brands about. G&G and ASG make good mid-level stuff that won't break the bank. Lots of people order in bulk to keep prices down, but that may not be a good idea when starting. it's a good idea to start with .25g rather than .20g as they will give you a bit of a range boost in an AEG. Like a lot of others have said, I wouldn't consider a sniper rifle for your first simply because you need to put lots of money into them and they don't tend to compete until you have. This link may help. Gas Honestly there are so many conflicting opinions on this that are impacted by a multitude of variables such as weather and the weight of the slide you have plus how well you maintain your gun that anything goes really. Smart Gas from Gunfire.pl is nice and cheap, but equally there are affordable options in the UK. WE gas can be has at quite a good price. The only thing I would say would be to invest in a can of Abbey Maintenance gas as this helps to seal-up your gaskets again if they start to leak. Also, I know you're just saving for a pistol at this point, but consider putting that money into the AEG rather than a sidearm first. Obviously it's completely up to you what you spend your money on, but one so rarely gets to use their backup in a game that it's kind of pointless. You might be kicking yourself if you could have spent that money better on something else. Face protection Lots of approaches here, but really it boils down to mesh (i.e. steel mesh), fabric (e.g. shamag) or plastic (e.g. a full-face mask such as you see paintballers and some airsofters using). The fabric ones are generally not allowed if you're under 16 (or 18, depending on the site) as they can slip and expose your face occasionally so they're not 100% safe. Plastic full-face masks that include eye protection can be good, but I've found them slightly claustrophobic and unless you spend a fair amount of money the lenses aren't thermal ones and all that heat coming off your face will fog them up in no time at all. The balance a lot go for is the steel mesh mask as it's separate to your goggles and lets more air in than say plastic of fabric. Two things to note with steel mash though: First is not to skimp on them. You can buy a mask for around £5 from eBay, but the first few strikes may open up holes in it and it'll be useless. TMC, Black Bear and Heroshark make decent masks. Secondly, mesh can cause irritation to the skin around the bridge of the nose. I've found the solution to this to be some insulation-type materal that provides padding. Some people have attached their mesh to goggles (that has the nice side effect of lifting them off your nose a little at times), but really you might have to figure something out for yourself. The rest As others have said: Good shoes, possibly insoles and socks for woodland. Camouflage (though just something green or darker coloured works fine a lot of the time). Remember a water bottle for a lot of sites

Shut up nubi

Hey Sheppy. Welcome to the forums. Budget guns a lot of us like to recommend are the G&G CM16s (Combat Machines) and the ICS M4 line. Both manufacturers make pretty tough guns at an entry-level that will be skirmishable out of the box. You're not going to get a decent pistol initially for the amount you have to spend, but obviously you can do that later. You're looking at around £120-150 for the gun, but you will need to bring into consideration everything else you'll want to get started: Eye protection, good footware, face protection, BBs, spare battery(ies), magazines etc. A quick bit of forum advice though: Try searching first. New player questions are the most commonly asked and you'll usually find a far better answer to your question somewhere on the forums already. These couple of threads might help for gun advice: http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/3779-the-beginners-guide-to-airsoft/ http://www.airsoft-forums.co.uk/index.php/topic/17294-ians-guide-to-noobism-on-a-tight-budget/

Nice scope. Where's the VSR?

Everything is 10% off at eHobby until the 6th.

Well sure, but I'm not sure if that same evolution of language applies to such niche phrases. It seems very much to me like most people have missed the subtlety of the phrase that makes it so amusing. Calling someone a 'walt' is a very direct and effective attack on their character. We can't afford to dilute that

Well these days people seem super lazy with their diction so this doesn't surprise me.

Boy are we off-topic now. Actually, a 'Walt' is simply someone who pretends to be something they're not. It's not got nothing to do with taking things too seriously, though in airsoft those can be mutually inclusive. And yes, it comes from the novel The Secret Life of Walter Mitty by James Thurber, which was made into a film in 2013 - the premise is it's a guy who has a really mundane life but has 'heroic daydreams' wherein he does exciting things. It's the British equivalent of 'stolen valour' (a US term for someone who wears uniform and/or pretends to have been in the military when not) a lot of the time and it can be a label given to people who are/were in the service and say they did something or were a part of something they didn't/weren't. More commonly it's given to people who aren't pretend they are or have been in any branch of the armed forces but never have been. This ties in well with the novel where one of the dreams actually involves him pretending to be a RAF pilot.

My god what have we done.

Kaleidoscope optic and dolly mixture backup sights.

Lightweight

I think from Scarathe it was more about making sure you knew how to get the optimum amount of rainbow without breaking the law as written, but as TriggerHappy said, the law is so utterly unenforceable and poorly written when it comes to colouring IFs in the way you describe then it's not going to matter as no one will ever mistake it for anything but a toy. Go to town, and please make sure there's glitter.

You don't need to upgrade it as the spring in the Mancraft kit is incredibly weak and the pull is about 60% of a stock spring and cylinder anyway. You may want one for a lighter trigger pull and cripser break, but it's certainly not necessary and probably not worth the price tag when VSR triggers should be adjustable to an extent through the grub screw on the front of the mech anyway. Could so some tinkering with the sears like a lot of people do by filing here and there to get a real feather-light pull, and you may want an aftermarket sear so it doesn't wear as quickly but I'd never say it's a priority. And as Spoon says, if you're needing space to feed that macro line down then it could be more hassle than it's worth for the small gain you get over stock triggers.

Nice. Probably just a loose spring then - something that's more common in stock VSRs than some others. They have a slightly more complicated trigger mech than say the Maruzen L96 clones.

True, but that's the whole stock. How easy are those to find without buying a broken gun?

Yeh. The warranty on airsoft guns doesn't tend to last very long except with certain manufacturers anyway. Most problems reveal themselves in the first month or so, so if you've not had it that long then you may want to hold off on the respray until then.

If the spring is compressed and not releasing it's a trigger mech problem usually ;something isn't allowing the sear to displace or there's nothing actuating it. It could be a catastrophic cylinder issue where the piston is completely stuck, but that's very unlikely. Again, seriously consider sending it back because to fix this you will probably have to void something. You need to rebuild the trigger mech. Probably just a rogue spring, but it could be that something has snapped and that's why I'd advise you send it back unless you're getting a new trigger mech. This link explains it better than I can: http://www.airsoftsniperforum.com/41-vsr-rifles/3165-worstinfinland-s-vsr-10-total-take-apart-guide.html

Usual disclaimer: Send it back. Can you fire it with the bolt back? (Don't let it slam fire, just see if it releases the spring tension). Is there clearly resistance from the spring when you pull the bolt back? This should allow us to rule out the sear.

Save up and get your UKARA registration and/or site membership done. You don't want to half-arse the look when you're spending so much money.