jcheeseright

Bear in mind that 99% of aftermarket 'upgrades' are really just budget parts which probably aren't as good as the ones in the gun already. If you end up finding that your gun has a significant deficiency in one field then you can address that, but if you do the standard newbie scattergun approach of chucking parts at a gun you'll end up with a gun that shoots WORSE than it did when you got it!

wow, the chinese sink to a new low by cloning a product where 100% of the profit went to charity.

The replica tourniquet is obviously just a bit of dress up kit, if someone's got an arterial bleed then using a replica on them is probably better than nothing... but still not really appropriate, belt or sling would be better Current doctrine is 2" above the wound, or above the joint if there's one in between. If you can't tell where the wound is, or the trauma is so significant the artery could be smashed up inside, go to the base of the limb, couple of inches below the groin or armpit (though this will be less effective at stopping the bleeding and carries greater risk of unnecessary damage to the limb). Fit the tourniquet, wind on the windlass til the patient stops leaking and mark it with the time of application. Haemostatic agents then get deployed en masse to to block up any residual bleed since even the tightest tourniquet isn't going to be 100% effective. That said, if you're applying a CAT to someone at an airsoft game then shit has hit the fan MASSIVELY and that person is lucky you had one on you!

as an ex-WE, all I can say to that is... 99.999% rounds/cleaning, 0.0001% missiles, torpedos, bombs. And I was a back-afty too!

for about 20 mins, yep.

Sites chrono at .20 because it's a known quantity and the marshals only need to remember one number! I honestly have no idea why anyone uses .20g BBs for anything other than chrono, .25 cost a fraction more and the performance gain to be had is significant.

I honestly don't even know why .23g BBs exist! people buy .20 because they're cheap, I get that, people buy .25 because they're reasonably priced and are more accurate than .20... but .23?! what niche does it fill?

so much photoshop!

possibly heat damage, maybe left in the sun/hot store room for months on end because no one buys .23g BBs! lesson learned though, only buy .25 and above!

I used to use one but like GiantKiwi the constant beeping did my head in! Now I just keep track of the amount of magazines I've emptied, change battery after about 1200 shots normally (1450mAh batteries) and then check the voltage of the cells when I get home, haven't yet come close to 3v per cell, lowest I've gone is 3.4v.

I use a SISU 1.6 on my upper teeth only, keep my mouth shut when getting shot at too! It's been hit a few times and has taken the impact like a champ. I have shit teeth that crack if you look at them funny (once cracked a molar on a frozen yorkie!) and the SISU has so far kept them all intact. Talking and drinking are no problem with it, so much so that I've on occasion forgotten it's in and tried to eat... Doesn't work!

+1 for ups.

I generally tend to go down the 'it's like paintball with more realistic guns' line. People understand that.

that inner barrel would be fine yeah.

Yeah NiMh is a step up from NiCad but it's still pretty stone age. I'd definitely recommend going straight to LiPo, you'll notice the difference and it'll save you buying a load of NiMh batteries that you'll end up replacing anyway! As for guns performing at site max straight from the box, even the 'higher end' (with the exception of TM, they're still kicking it at ~300fps every time) have large variations in FPS from gun to gun out of the box, websites will quote 340 / 320 / etc but that's more of a median average than an actual number for the exact gun you'll get. Some retailers (pro airsoft supplies are good for this) if you give them a call will find you one that shoots the velocity you want just by opening boxes and checking them til they find one. If they can't find one, or have limited stock for a small fee they'll normally open it up and put a new spring in for you. That said, if you're not going cheap and you want a SCAR, I highly recommend the TM SCAR, best one on the market by a country mile; recoil simulation (it has a big lead weight that moves around inside to make the gun shake), magazines stop the gun firing when empty, extremely accurate external detail and colour and the best hop-up unit available anywhere.

the internal designs of airsoft guns haven't changed all that much since you stopped playing, your CA gun will be absolutely fine on a 7.4v LiPo, 11.1v will eventually burn your trigger contacts out though. regarding brands, for AEGs TM are still king of the hill, their recoil shock range are the best out-of-the -box guns you can buy at the moment. G&G will be new to you, they're a taiwanese brand that in the last few years have really shaken up the budget-mid range market by offering very high quality stuff at reasonable prices. G&P / VFC may also be new names, both are widely regarded as being high quality. The external finish of their guns will be like nothing you've seen before when compared to the older CA and TM stuff. Thankfully there's no law covering the OWNERSHIP of a RIF (realistic imitation firearm) so you'll be able to play at any site with it no problem, you will however need to avail yourself of a 'defence against prosecution' before anyone can legally sell you another one. UKARA is the easiest and most widely accepted method of doing this, and it only takes 3 games in no less than 2 months to meet the criteria.

if the flights weren't £600 (cheapest I could find) I'd be all over a trip to the states to shoot people in the face.

TM MP7 is a beast of a gun, virtually zero maintenance required too.

yeah, 9500 lumens is brighter than most lighthouses, brighter than the landing lights on a 747! I expect as with most torch manufacturers that's just the theoretical maximum output of the LEDs combined assuming a perfect reflector, bet it's still bloody bright though!

no shit, hold on to that, it's worth a LOT of money.

actually, this chart is a bit more relevant as it assumes a muzzle velocity of 350fps with a .20 http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/07-b-07.htm

People get hung up on 'flight time' and their PERCEPTION of how long it takes a BB to reach the target. A 0.25g BB will not get to a person 50 yards away any slower (it'll actually get there a fraction of a second quicker!) than a 0.20g BB, even though the muzzle velocity is lower, heavier BBs are more accurate and travel further (providing your hop-up can effectively lift them). I've been trialling .30g in my M4 which only shoots 340fps with a .20, the difference in consistency at distance between 'slower' .30g and 'faster' .20g is significant. If anyone reading this needs further information, there's lots here: http://mackila.com/airsoft/atp/07-b-06.htm As you can see in the velocity vs distance chart, the crossover point is at about 50', at which point all 3 of the weights are doing about 175fps, before which the .20 is clearly going faster... but probably not noticeably so, after that the heavier BBs retain their velocity MUCH better, something you'll definitely see at the far end of your rifle's range.

wait... what? depending on the year that's £3,000-£10,000 of watch!

why are you using .23s anyway? I wouldn't advise shooting anything lighter than .25, go as heavy as your hop-up can lift and your wallet can handle.