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pyromancer6

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Everything posted by pyromancer6

  1. pyromancer6

    t8KzcUt.png

     

    Plugging a battery into my completely standard never missing a beat CYMA Highspeed MP5 to find out it's somehow exploded or stripped one of the gears was not on my bingo card for this lovely wednesday evening. Losing the fucking will to live honestly lmao

    1. pyromancer6

      pyromancer6

      https://i.imgur.com/nmdCl87.mp4

    2. gavinkempsell

      gavinkempsell

      Does it bind if the motor is screwed in? sounded like there was no resistance when the motor turned.

    3. pyromancer6

      pyromancer6

      Binds either way - I was adjusting motor height because it slipped a little during play and it was sounding a little screechy - went too far in so backed up a bunch and boom - sudden lockup into screaming. Changing the height now doesn't do anything - it just screams. Broken spur gear? I took the motor out of the grip and it seems to be working fine and I don't see any damage to the pinion or shaft or anything

  2. pyromancer6

    Any idea when you're getting the J-cage bearings back in stock bud? Turns out the CYMA bushings are a bit too shonky for SHS 13:1s..

    1. ak2m4

      ak2m4

      I am testing for some now but I really recommend going for bushings if your having shimming issues

    2. pyromancer6

      pyromancer6

      Thing is - I have no room for shims with the standard CYMA bushings at the min and putting the old bearings in from my CYMA platinum that neg built for me means I can add shims and it's a lot quieter - but they don't quite fit the holes and pop in and out a bunch and it's making me nervous that they might give up the ghost, hence me looking for new ones. Might consider the XT bushings now that you're mentioning them though..

    3. ak2m4

      ak2m4

      Some bushings / bearings sometimes require a little bit of retaining compound or glue to hold them in place.  With bearings if you try to force fit them you can damage their structure quite easily.

  3. pyromancer6
    Appreciate the info lads. Now that I'm looking at it properly instead of just seeing the silver metal and assuming 'magnet' it's very obvious what it actually does ? Me thinking it was a magnet led me to a reddit thread talking about needing to replace the magnet in a new set of gears and lo and behold - it was for an amoeba with the EFCS ?‍♂️ Now just need to order some bearings as the CYMA bushings that are in there are a bit too shonky to fit any shims with the SHS gears.. [pretty sure they're taller than the stock ones]
  4. pyromancer6
    And here I am moaning about trying to find a holster for my glock ?
  5. pyromancer6
    Hi all, Recently been taking on this M733 CYMA as my first real forray into 'fixing something' that was previously fucked - it was working great until on a game day it decided to get locked into safe on every position (safety catch, new one is going in as we speak to hopefully fix it) but with me being me I also decided to order a set of SHS 13:1s from ak2m4 while I was there - only to notice that the stock CYMA gears have what I'm guessing is a magnet in one of the holes that the SHS lacks - where do I source these for the SHS gears? I'm assuming it's how the CYMA mosfet reads gear cycling and I fear that just slapping the SHS ones in without replacing it will cause it to burst on semi or do other fucky shit. Am I just being paranoid, or does that magnet need to be replaced to have the mosfet not freak out? If so - where would I source one for the SHS gear? Cheers
  6. pyromancer6
    I would've thought the spenca would've been decently solid externals wise - I bought a KV stock and Hensoldt style carryhandle dot/scope from a regular at the site I play at and it's distinctly nylon-y non shiny plastic. Appreciate the insight though - strange to hear your thoughts on the S&T from the horse's mouth considering the nightmare fuel that was your KA4 build... Sportline? Proline? I'm exclusively after external quality as all the internals from my current JG (13:1s, perun hybrid etc) are going in so if there's no difference between the bodies quality wise I'll go with what's cheaper. Do they only do G36Cs? Or do they do the longer variants too? Can't seem to find much information on them to be honest, considering the age of them.
  7. pyromancer6
    Hi all, I'm an owner of a JG G36K that I've had for a little while now - we've had our ups and downs, and it's had plenty of money thrown at it to make it good. One thing that's always bugged me was how creaky and plastic-y it's always felt so after deliberating on ordering replacement parts to hopefully fix all the creaking I just realised I had a ship of theseus situation on my hands and that it'd probably be a better idea to purchase a brand new base gun and just simply swap all the fancy bits over, leaving the original as a nice little spare backup of sorts. That leaves the question - which one? I've heard nightmare stories about the S&T (@JinxDuh...) and I'd need one that is ideally fully compatible with the JG so I can swap over parts interchangably so I still have a spare backup gun when it's said and done.
  8. pyromancer6

    V3 clicker's PDF is available if you want to salivate before it's released fully: https://perunairsoft.pl/clickerv3.pdf

  9. pyromancer6
    Where about did you source all this from? Was looking for some parts for my WE too as I need a new mag valve and thought I might as well get posh ones + the fancy routers to see if they make much of a difference at all
  10. pyromancer6
    Thanks for the heads-up - I'm not too upset as I can't afford the things at the minute anyway lmao
  11. pyromancer6
    Any idea where the listing for the XPIs are? The only one I can find w/ microphone is around the £200 mark on eBay atm
  12. pyromancer6

    As an avid DE falconfire enjoyer myself I was amiss to find out that it was playing up on today's gameday - I assumed it was the rain causing issues as it always does with mosfets but after getting home it's doing the dreaded beep-beep and the only mention I could find online was your thread/post from a few years ago:

    Spoiler



    Am I fucked? I only just about got this thing shooting nice too ?

     

    1. RostokMcSpoons

      RostokMcSpoons

      Hi @pyromancer6
      Sorry, I used to live on these forums, but now I'm not playing (due to knee issues) and I've been busy with work, I'm rarely here.
      Your video - I don't get it - it looks/sounds great to me... is that the 'before'?

      If it's beeping and won't fire again, then the Falcon has fallen to earth :(   I can't remember the beep pattern of mine, but it matched what was in the manual as an 'error' indicator.

      Tricky to source a new one, DE themselves weren't interested in helping, which was very disappointing, hence my delight at finding someone selling a couple here.   And buying a whole donor gun.
       

      Good luck!

       

    2. pyromancer6

      pyromancer6

      Nah, it's the after - it's firing bursts on semi and on auto it lets off like 4-7 rounds and does a double beep which is a 'module error' according to DE - the only mention online I could find was your old thread which is why I shot a message ?, appreciate the info!

  13. pyromancer6
    Unfortunately I need to get the front handguards off as it's front wired ?, appreciate the input anway though Yeah this seems to be the case, just learnt how to take the front sight + gas block etc off alongside the delta ring so I'll be borrowing a armourer's wrench soon to get it tight as I just didn't have anything to grasp it properly Skem ?, easier to just say it's close rather than try and explain lol
  14. pyromancer6
    Hi all, I've been blabbering on my profile about a 'works proper good' CYMA that a friend picked up second hand a while ago to do some sort of counter-strike style build (it was broken when recieved, and has sat in a gun roll for the best part of a year now) and I've spent the last few weeks using my sudden confidence and milk-bottle tech skills to get it back on the road after the CYMA mosfet did a CYMA mosfet and died. It's firing nice, even though it overspins a little on 11.1v (but is a little sluggish on 7.4v, and just perfect on 9.9v even though it's the only battery that doesn't fit the front handguard, typical airsoft) I've noticed today that it seems to be a little wobbly in the front, to the point where the removable handguard, front sight/gas block and outer barrel move/rotates. It's bugging the piss out of me and I was wondering what I could do to tighten it up and if I need to seperate the upper and lower to do so (because getting those bullet connectors through the little slot in the outer barrel is a nightmare and I don't want to if I don't have to) Video below - is it just a nuance of these front wired CYMAs or is there something loose I should tighten? Img 5513.mp4 Cheers in advance.
  15. pyromancer6

    I just fell for the classic ‘ooh I’ll try fettling with some airsoft bollocks to unwind a bit before bed’ which predictably led to me losing a grip screw and lots of swearing. Anyway, 30 minutes of rolling around later I’m headed to bed full of dust, screw still MIA and more wound up then when I started ?

  16. pyromancer6
    My JG G36 was originally built in 2021 by them, apparently - and it had a slough of issues [pun unintended] too. Maybe they just really hate G36s?
  17. pyromancer6
    Was moseying around on Ali taking a look at random things and found a listing for SHS HT/HS motors that are stupidly cheap - anybody have any experience with these? They've got to be offbrand or clones considering the price. Still - might be worth a shot considering your average SHS HT is more than double the cost if you're in desperate need of a motor or such.
  18. pyromancer6
    I think it's just a problem of the sliding AK/MP5 hops being a pain in the ass - I had to shave down my XT nub to stop my MP5 overhopping 0.28s with no hop applied as it was just a little too wide to fit the tract properly and was getting forced in when the arm went back in place [and the one I cut on the game day on a bench outside fixed this, just it was a little pissed so it was shooting to the left ?], a fresh XT nub same as the one you linked went in fine after some sanding and a little trimming, same ML macaron rubber too - just in a CYMA MP5 instead of an AK [the hops are pretty similar or at least I'm assuming so]
  19. pyromancer6
    Always wondered what that optics rail was called as I wanted to recreate this sick ass G36 I saw on YT shorts a while back Bet you'd have a great time trying to get a ACR stock to fit on a G36 though..
  20. pyromancer6
    There's some potential and some setups really suit the KAC irons, but yeah - hensoldt all the way. Pictured, a poor bundeswehr soldier struggling to see absolutely fucking anything through it ?
  21. pyromancer6

    Fresh CYMA 'ZEUS' v2 mosfet to fix up a friend's CM.009 M733, had it apart and had a nightmare shimming it, ten hours later and it's working - only for the solder on the positive wire to detach the moment I disconnected the battery ?, can't beat it.

    1. Show previous comments  3 more
    2. Shamal

      Shamal

      Halfords for the motor connectors. Come with heat shrink. ?

    3. pyromancer6

      pyromancer6

      Having two things disconnect within the day of having the CYMA mosfet just means I got unlucky and got a lemon as I haven't had such murder with anything else I've used ?, and it's just female spade connector's I'm looking for right @Shamal?

    4. Shamal

      Shamal

      Yep the female side ?

  22. pyromancer6
    Looks like I'll be adding a E&C glock to the lineup when I can, then - thanks for all your info!
  23. pyromancer6
    Interesting, I'll give it a little go because I'm sure the plastic ZCI with a dedicated nub's much better than the standard DE hop with an internal one. It was previously mis-feeding every-other shot rather than every single one if that's any indication? Ever since going back to the standard one it's fed flawlessly. EDIT: Had a good fuck around for an hour or two, it feeds a little better on the plastic ZCI unit with a different barrel [CYMA] but it still has feeding inconsistencies - the units are proportioned a little differently from eachother so the next one I get I'll give it a go of filing down to try and match the profile.
  24. pyromancer6
    It's running a XT High Torque 22TPA that was in there previously (formally a SHS high torque but it died of death because the pistol grip slipped at some point) and the aforementioned compression kit but excluding that it's completely standard on the inside parts wise, just a reshim. I might have flubbed the hop amount for the picture when I took it to get it perfect ?, turns out it was sending 0.28s to outer-space and when adjusted properly at the site it was a little too hot at 1.23~ or around about, so I popped the standard spring back inside which has got it shooting around the 1.01J mark with the hop set correctly - I might look into getting a goldilocks spring that's just right when I order a nice little XT tightbore for it [as the accuracy isn't the best from the random 6.03 barrel I stuffed inside] but I'll cross that bridge when we come to it - I'm just happy to have a pew that works again, especially one that my hands have been on and inside!
  25. pyromancer6
    Thought I'd reply to this thread with a little update - it ended up being the air seal components as mentioned previously, it was leaking a bunch of air through the cylinder head hence the low power. Replaced the air seal stuff with ak2m4's lovely compression kit and the power jumped all the way up from 0.73J to 1.26J. Used it for most of Friday's game just went with absolutely no problems, ran like a trooper. Considering it's the first time I've ever cracked a gearbox, changed things and even attempted my own shimming it didn't end up too bad. Pretty chuffed with it, actually. Img 5411.mp4
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