RostokMcSpoons

Oh come on, I have absolutely no interest whatsoever in some sort of budget gun... None. None at all, I tell you! To be honest, I think you're absolutely right. The AR15 isn't feeding reliably again (even though I've done nothing to it but paint it, and I was very careful with masking all the moving parts), so it's probably not worth spending any appreciable amount of cash on. I should probably sell it on as a boneyard / project. The motor and gearbox do seem to be running nicely, it'll be a shame if I can't sort out the feeding issue once and for all.

I definitely want to be able to fit the existing stock back on - if that's not going to be possible afterwards, I won't bother

Blimey, thanks for the quick replies, you guys are on point today Well I took what Adolf said, and tried extra force, but carefully applied! I took out the cross pin again and pushed harder down on the locating pin, and yes it moved down flush. So I hooked an Allen key through it, pulled down on it, and got the stock on the tube. Yay! Then I just refitted the lever and it's all good. Now I can't view the movie clip ('we could not locate the item you're trying to view'), so I'm not sure about getting the lever pulled down, as it can only move so far before it hits the stock and can go no further. As the back plate comes off to fit the battery, I should be 'sorted, sweet as a nut, luvverly jubbly' anyway

Chaps, I've just received a PTS EPS stock, but it won't slide straight on to the DE's stock tube as the locating bolt doesn't retract fully out of the way, and the DE tube has a solid end (the cutout groove in the rib doesn't run all the way to the end) It looks like I'll have to disassemble the operating lever and the bolt, and re-assemble it on the gun. I can see two drift pins (arrowed) holding the bolt in place, but there's also quite a strong spring in there somewhere... if I knock out the two drift pins will I be able to put it all back together??? (I have already removed the cross pin but it's the longitudinal pin that actually holds the bolt, it seems) I appreciate there's only a tiny chance anyone here has ever had to do this, but I had to ask!

Cheers guys, when I get around to filling the L85-sized hole in my growing collection, I'll give the AA one a swerve. I believe the 'not firing on semi' is a thing common to all of the mechanically-triggered L85s, because the gearbox is partial to half-cycling. Only a MOSFET with some active breaking / pre-cocking can really sort that out...?

Is medical alcohol the same as vodka? "It's purely medicinal" To be honest, looking at it in the cold light of day (and some strong lamps) there's just too much to get rid of. I'll have to go over most of the rifle again. This is all experimentation before I have a go on the F2000 so no harm done. Edit: I did use some hand sanitizer gel and tissue paper, that did sod-all, so I tried some some acetone just to see how easy it would be to strip the rifle back to black. In fact that showed it was going to take some work, it smeared the paint a little but didn't instantly remove it either. But this morning I took a brillo pad and a bottle of alcohol foaming sanitiser, and between the rough side of the pad, and the more alcholic foam, it did a great job of gently removing paint - the worst of the speckles have been scrubbed off and still leaving the pattern underneath. I can now leave the gun as-is, it's good enough to live with. So thanks again @rocketdogbert

I found myself in the local Hobbycraft shop, and they stocked some decent satin/matte spray paints at £7.50 a can, so I bought the off-white and dark red to add those highlights. And like a muppet I decided to rush into trying them out even though it was dark, cold and breezy outside. The actual extra spray I added was... ok. Maybe over-egging it a bit. But I didn't take enough care to avoid overspray beyond my scrim, so now there's a dusting of white specks over some of the gun which looks a bit crap up close.

So as asked in the Quick Questions thread, I'd like the optionn of adding a collapsible M4 stock to my Classic Army AR15-A3 which has a fixed stock tube that looks like this... Ideally I'd like to be able to fit the old stock back on again, as it does suit the aesthetic of the full length M16... Especially now I've painted the gun But I do like the collapsible stocks and I'll have a spare shortly

I actually need to shim the upper receiver away from the gearbox though - it's having it ~0.5mm forward that puts the resistance on the cross bolt. Is putting o-rings on the gearbox side of the hop unit going to stay in place? And do that shimming job? Also... the hop unit feels quite... crap. I spin the wheel, it goes from no hop to 'a bit'. And then back to zero again (with a little click). It doesn't have any positivity or resistance to it. Now obviously I'm only shooting at 15m, I have no idea if it's actually doing a decent job in spite of that cheap feel... but should I just go ahead with a new hop unit? @Asomodai would you recommend the G&G metal unit?

You're going to be a pinging aimed shots in semi-auto, your ammo usage will be so low compared to a normal day's spamming of 3-5 round bursts. It's got to be worth trying 0.36's And the cost of the BBs compared to your outlay (and whatever monetary value you could attach to 'disappointment') mean it's a price worth paying anyway

Yeah I've seen some on sale at over £200 already, but strangely Patrolbase have twice put m900s on sale down at £130 - once for black Friday, and once for a 'Muzzle Flash sale' (props to the marketing dept for coming up with that) However in both cases there wasn't any actual stock to sell !

Perhaps I should a) Let someone else do the Taiwangun thang and report back and more importantly b) Try the new guns I've just bought in a skirmish for the first time, before trying to buy another one (and risking my marriage)

I've made some 'painting' It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun! I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience. All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels. Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

Replacing my cheapo ASG Balance charger with a recognised good 'un, the SkyRC T100, because my Titan battery decided to die on me. Not sure if I had a short in my AK, but it blew the internal fuse. I've got a replacement coming under warranty and I might as well charge it up on a better charger from the off. Bought the Deans cable and a couple of balance charger extender leads too.

I'd like to fix an M4 collapsible stock to my AR15... but that has a fixed short buffer tube, and the wiring might be a problem. Is there a way to do it?

I'm really liking the look of this (inc the stock) What sort of price would that £115 become if it eventually found its way to my front door?

Quick question: Is there any easy way to make the cross-bolt a bit stickier within the body? Depending on how hard the upper receiver is pushed back (and I'm guessing the difference is less than a millimetre), that bolt can either be nicely held in place and requiring a decent push to remove it, or so loose it could almost fall out. Is there anything I can do to the bolt or its slot, or do I need to shim the whole upper receiver a little forward?

Not that I'd be able to help you (I have no experience with any Mosfet installation), I can tell you the link to the video doesn't work

Yes, I do! I lusted after one of those (for no good reason). I ended up with a BSA Reflex sight to go alongside my Viking 4x32. (not my pic, but I still have the sight, with half the mount missing) That reflex sight was actually pretty decent for plinking at cans at 30-40yds, but I always reverted to the scope on my occasional pigeon hunts.

They said it couldn't be done.... ('They' being the voices in my head) After a lot of prep work looking at the inside and outside of the handguard, and looking at various bits of RIS rail on sale (before settling on one of the simplest ones), I've finally managed to bodge engineer my stubby grip onto my F2000, as per my Battlefield 4 in-game loadout. (I couldn't find a tri-rail that I thought would look the same and that I could actually fit, so had to go for a single rail... but I still wanted the 'hanging off the front of the gun' look) I'm sort of blowing my own trumpet, perhaps a small one, such as the type often found in Christmas crackers... but it really isn't bodged, it feels absolutely damn solid. In fact it was so solid that after all the work I did carving out plastic and getting everything 'just so', it actually felt good-to-go without any of the screws and bolts and washers and plates I expected to put in. I put most of them in anyway and now I can pick up the gun by the front grip without any undue concern. I wouldn't want to fall on it, or do anything too drastic, but... very pleased with it. Inside the handguard are a couple of chunks of wood which help locate the RIS against some of the internal ribs which I cut / Dremel appropriately. They're screwed into the handguard. There's a bolt through the rail and the one of the chunks through to the top of the handguard. I actually just used a craft knife to remove most of the plastic, my cheapo Dremel looky-likey just didn't cut it. Ha ha. Ho ho... I'm here all week.

Oops! I meant whatever the cheap crap is that shatters easily... plexiglass... is that what I meant?

Actually I think SteavoBeavo's setup looks particularly good. As I said, my choice is down to replicating the look of my Battlefield 4 gaming setup... I've got very nearly 50,000 in-game kills with the F2000 now, it's my favourite gun in the game. L85A2 comes in second, I'll have to get one of those eventually. The 'Coyote' sight is often the player's choice of red dot in BF4 just because it has such a thin surround to the lens that it blocks less of the peripheral view than any of the other sights, and therefore gives a small (but useful) advantage. My other fave in-game sight was the Kobra, but while the open T-reticle in the game looks nice, I found it doesn't encourage the same accuracy in aiming as a plain dot. I'm lucky I bought the Kobra back when I first started airsoft, they seem to be super-expensive now. Historical aside: I bought one of the early red dot sights, the SinglePoint, for my BSA Meteor when I was a kid. It was really designed for shotguns I think. There was no view through the tube, it was a massive red dot for the right eye, and you saw the target with your left. I could just about hit tin cans with it, but it was useless for an air rifle. Sent it back to the dealer. https://shootery.blogspot.com/2010/07/moldy-oldie-review-singlepoint-sight.html I've got polycarb discs wedged into the front of my old Tasco scope, and my Kobra. Polycarb is pretty much unbreakable as I understand it, unlike the Lexan type sheet that gets used on the sacrificial lens protectors on eBay.

I'd agree the design of option 2 is inherently more likely to break. I bought it entirely for the fact it's the Coyote sight in Battlefield 4 and I want to replicate the look of my in-game gun. You can reduce (hopefully remove) the chance of a shattered lens from a BB hit by adding one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/294313449017 Which I think integrates very nicely... Buy yeah, the big lens frame sticking out like that isn't going to take any heavy impact as well as the others. (I wish I'd straightened the QR lever, now this photo has appeared in multiple threads, it's triggering my OCD ;)) Edit: Whilst looking for option 3 on ebay, I did find option 2 at £15, posted from the UK. Just in case you're interested. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255274969603

Enjoy!

Just received it, and fired a few shots from the patio door .... oooooooh I like it! Snappy even on the Nuprol low-power gas I ordered. Lovely build quality but it does feel very different in the hand to my all-metal M9. (Different, not worse) Still got a good heft to it. Well worth the recommendations, thankyou I think if I became a very bold person, there does look like there's enough material to allow for a lanyard hole to be drilled through the base of the backstrap. I don't think I'll do it quite yet though!