RostokMcSpoons

This one is already widely used... https://playairsoft.uk/ Good luck though - just try to offer things above and beyond that site, so it's the better alternative, not just an alternative

I'd have the separating lines of tan still there (though thinner than most of the others), it was just easier to use Paint.Net's Re-Colour feature to slap it together quickly. As for an overcoat... yes I could get a translucent black or brown and cover the whole thing to tone it down... so that's a good idea and I'll think about that too Edit: Here's a pic with everything in place, all the tape off, most of the annoying overruns fixed... and in natural light. I've got a skirmish on Saturday, I'm going to play that game with it as-is, see how it fits in / sticks out like a sore thumb at the site. I have to say the greens and browns come out a lot better in the sunlight, I'm feeling a bit more content with it now

Yeah, it's the lighting! All the painting done outdoors or in the garage. Wifey wouldn't mind if I ruined that carpet though ... it's shagged (Badoom-tish. I'm still here all week etc) The red shows up a bit bright in that photo, it is a satin finish rather than matte which doesn't help. It was sort-of intentional to go with a 'statement' colour for highlights... but something a bit more claret would've worked better. Here's a mock-up of some extra green added to tie it together... (darker greens are available at all good retail outlets) (Putting on the masking tape for that lot wouldn't be much fun though)

I've been trying to come up with an interesting camo pattern for my F2000 that either rips off / pays homage to the Battlefield 4 game's patterns, or is just something different from the typical rattle-can DPM camo. So I've got this: It's looking something like how I imagined. The cat finds it interesting - maybe he's getting high off the fumes! Obviously there's still masking tape on the grip, trigger, mag release, and the upper is just aligned to give a general idea. (In the game, the upper remains black, except for the charging handle) I need to add or reshape a few more blocks on this side. There's still a lot of blank space on the other side to do. Also there are some paint overruns that need touching up. The Halfords green paint is looking too grey, I will probably want to find a lighter green to add in (something just a bit duller than the green masking tape) The question is, does it look good? Or should I abandon it? It's hard work taping out the areas and re-working where the paint runs under the tape, so if it's not going to impress anyone on the site, there's no point carrying on Whaddya reckon?

I never knew about the SA58... as a long-time fan of the L1A1 it does look really interesting... is it any good?

Even better, get one of these.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Airsoft-Red-Dot-Sight-Lens-Protector-Holographic-Optic-Shield-Cover-Type-1-/294313449017 I can vouch for the fact it looks great on the sight, and with a poly carbonate protector it should be BB-proof, rather than sacrificial.

Oh come on, I have absolutely no interest whatsoever in some sort of budget gun... None. None at all, I tell you! To be honest, I think you're absolutely right. The AR15 isn't feeding reliably again (even though I've done nothing to it but paint it, and I was very careful with masking all the moving parts), so it's probably not worth spending any appreciable amount of cash on. I should probably sell it on as a boneyard / project. The motor and gearbox do seem to be running nicely, it'll be a shame if I can't sort out the feeding issue once and for all.

I definitely want to be able to fit the existing stock back on - if that's not going to be possible afterwards, I won't bother

Blimey, thanks for the quick replies, you guys are on point today Well I took what Adolf said, and tried extra force, but carefully applied! I took out the cross pin again and pushed harder down on the locating pin, and yes it moved down flush. So I hooked an Allen key through it, pulled down on it, and got the stock on the tube. Yay! Then I just refitted the lever and it's all good. Now I can't view the movie clip ('we could not locate the item you're trying to view'), so I'm not sure about getting the lever pulled down, as it can only move so far before it hits the stock and can go no further. As the back plate comes off to fit the battery, I should be 'sorted, sweet as a nut, luvverly jubbly' anyway

Chaps, I've just received a PTS EPS stock, but it won't slide straight on to the DE's stock tube as the locating bolt doesn't retract fully out of the way, and the DE tube has a solid end (the cutout groove in the rib doesn't run all the way to the end) It looks like I'll have to disassemble the operating lever and the bolt, and re-assemble it on the gun. I can see two drift pins (arrowed) holding the bolt in place, but there's also quite a strong spring in there somewhere... if I knock out the two drift pins will I be able to put it all back together??? (I have already removed the cross pin but it's the longitudinal pin that actually holds the bolt, it seems) I appreciate there's only a tiny chance anyone here has ever had to do this, but I had to ask!

Cheers guys, when I get around to filling the L85-sized hole in my growing collection, I'll give the AA one a swerve. I believe the 'not firing on semi' is a thing common to all of the mechanically-triggered L85s, because the gearbox is partial to half-cycling. Only a MOSFET with some active breaking / pre-cocking can really sort that out...?

Is medical alcohol the same as vodka? "It's purely medicinal" To be honest, looking at it in the cold light of day (and some strong lamps) there's just too much to get rid of. I'll have to go over most of the rifle again. This is all experimentation before I have a go on the F2000 so no harm done. Edit: I did use some hand sanitizer gel and tissue paper, that did sod-all, so I tried some some acetone just to see how easy it would be to strip the rifle back to black. In fact that showed it was going to take some work, it smeared the paint a little but didn't instantly remove it either. But this morning I took a brillo pad and a bottle of alcohol foaming sanitiser, and between the rough side of the pad, and the more alcholic foam, it did a great job of gently removing paint - the worst of the speckles have been scrubbed off and still leaving the pattern underneath. I can now leave the gun as-is, it's good enough to live with. So thanks again @rocketdogbert

I found myself in the local Hobbycraft shop, and they stocked some decent satin/matte spray paints at £7.50 a can, so I bought the off-white and dark red to add those highlights. And like a muppet I decided to rush into trying them out even though it was dark, cold and breezy outside. The actual extra spray I added was... ok. Maybe over-egging it a bit. But I didn't take enough care to avoid overspray beyond my scrim, so now there's a dusting of white specks over some of the gun which looks a bit crap up close.

So as asked in the Quick Questions thread, I'd like the optionn of adding a collapsible M4 stock to my Classic Army AR15-A3 which has a fixed stock tube that looks like this... Ideally I'd like to be able to fit the old stock back on again, as it does suit the aesthetic of the full length M16... Especially now I've painted the gun But I do like the collapsible stocks and I'll have a spare shortly

I actually need to shim the upper receiver away from the gearbox though - it's having it ~0.5mm forward that puts the resistance on the cross bolt. Is putting o-rings on the gearbox side of the hop unit going to stay in place? And do that shimming job? Also... the hop unit feels quite... crap. I spin the wheel, it goes from no hop to 'a bit'. And then back to zero again (with a little click). It doesn't have any positivity or resistance to it. Now obviously I'm only shooting at 15m, I have no idea if it's actually doing a decent job in spite of that cheap feel... but should I just go ahead with a new hop unit? @Asomodai would you recommend the G&G metal unit?

You're going to be a pinging aimed shots in semi-auto, your ammo usage will be so low compared to a normal day's spamming of 3-5 round bursts. It's got to be worth trying 0.36's And the cost of the BBs compared to your outlay (and whatever monetary value you could attach to 'disappointment') mean it's a price worth paying anyway

Yeah I've seen some on sale at over £200 already, but strangely Patrolbase have twice put m900s on sale down at £130 - once for black Friday, and once for a 'Muzzle Flash sale' (props to the marketing dept for coming up with that) However in both cases there wasn't any actual stock to sell !

Perhaps I should a) Let someone else do the Taiwangun thang and report back and more importantly b) Try the new guns I've just bought in a skirmish for the first time, before trying to buy another one (and risking my marriage)

I've made some 'painting' It's definitely a step up from the crayons I usually have to eat play with, really rather fun! I smudged a bit around the mag well (on the other side), and maybe there's a couple of other areas that need a bit of re-toning and some texture from the scrim added in, but as my first attempt it was a good learning experience. All done with Halfords paint (black/khaki/green/brown) as it was easy to grab them on my travels. Still want a muted red and a near-white to add some extra highlights.

Replacing my cheapo ASG Balance charger with a recognised good 'un, the SkyRC T100, because my Titan battery decided to die on me. Not sure if I had a short in my AK, but it blew the internal fuse. I've got a replacement coming under warranty and I might as well charge it up on a better charger from the off. Bought the Deans cable and a couple of balance charger extender leads too.

I'd like to fix an M4 collapsible stock to my AR15... but that has a fixed short buffer tube, and the wiring might be a problem. Is there a way to do it?

I'm really liking the look of this (inc the stock) What sort of price would that £115 become if it eventually found its way to my front door?

Quick question: Is there any easy way to make the cross-bolt a bit stickier within the body? Depending on how hard the upper receiver is pushed back (and I'm guessing the difference is less than a millimetre), that bolt can either be nicely held in place and requiring a decent push to remove it, or so loose it could almost fall out. Is there anything I can do to the bolt or its slot, or do I need to shim the whole upper receiver a little forward?

Not that I'd be able to help you (I have no experience with any Mosfet installation), I can tell you the link to the video doesn't work

Yes, I do! I lusted after one of those (for no good reason). I ended up with a BSA Reflex sight to go alongside my Viking 4x32. (not my pic, but I still have the sight, with half the mount missing) That reflex sight was actually pretty decent for plinking at cans at 30-40yds, but I always reverted to the scope on my occasional pigeon hunts.