RostokMcSpoons

They give you the connectors, and the two sets of signal wires (one single, one double) are both very long, but no heavy duty wire. I could butcher some of my existing tamiya leads etc to harvest some. I don't have any spade connectors so I'd have to splice onto the rather short bit of red wire coming off the motor... which just feels like another potential point of failure, but I guess it's what I'm left with. Ok. I have a plan of attack for tomorrow. Now I'm off to the pub!

I think I'd end up having to splice wires... basically I thought the simplified version with the single signal wire would be much easier to reverse (if I had to) than messing with the current wiring... and in fact the instructions mention the second option when replacing all the current wiring with a heavier gauge. However... it's not working. So I either reverse it and find a 7.4v battery that'll fit (having just requested an 11,1v nunchuck from Titan which won't fit, whereas the original 7.4v did, d'oh!) ... or I fix this. I'm not entirely sure I'm brave enough to strip off what's there.

Thanks Iceni, I'll consider what you have shown, but my method is as per the Gate instructions... https://www.gatee.eu/images/gate/instrukcje/merf32-en.pdf Section 2a, which specifically says the signal wire only carries a small current

In preparation for a couple of new 11.1v batteries arriving for my F2000 (already upgraded with full cylinder, hi torque motor, better spring), I've bought and installed a Gate Merf 3.2 I've taken the front (left) trigger wire and moved it to the connect at the rear contact, and installed the single signal wire to the now open contact. I've programmed the MOSFET for the 11.1v LiPo battery, but everything else is at the defaults. It fired. It fired full auto at 19rps. Nice'n'snappy And then it stopped. I took it all apart again. Put in the new piston which I'd already found has less of an airseal, but had the correct piston head to go with my new cylinder head. And then it fired again. And then it stopped. Recharged the battery (from 10% charge, 3.60v each cell, which didn't exactly scream 'battery voltage too low' to me) And then it fired again. And then it really jammed up. Might be my fault, maybe I didn't tighten up the screw enough but the piston head came away and broke the rack. I took it all apart again. Refitted the old piston. Radiused the gearbox shell too. And then it fired again. And then it stopped. It always fires with the programming trigger connected, but when I go back to the signal wire / gun trigger, it doesn't always fire again. The signal wire looks fine, no obvious pinches on it, the solder is secure. The fact it has sometimes fired again after a delay makes me think of a thermal cut-out, but everything has only got slightly warm after the few bursts I get to fire each time. I guess I'll re-solder the signal wire, but is there anything inside the trigger unit that might have gone awry too?

Quick update: Rate of fire up to 19rps. Obeying the '20 is plenty' rule, at least for the moment! Bad news: gun stopped pew-pewing again. It went for longer before stopping, but stop it did. No warning lights on the Merf, start-up lights showed it was still happy. Battery swap (to 7.4v) didn't fix it. The 11.1v battery is down to 10% (~3.60v per cell) so I'm re-charging it now, in case the Merf is very conservative with its battery protection. The odd thing is if I do the trick of connecting the programming trigger to the Merf, it'll fire quite happily. Maybe my signal wire is shorting after some vibration...?

I've fitted my Merf! Good news: full auto's like a beast, noticeable increase of RoF in my F2000 with the SHS hi-torque motor + 1200mAH 11.1v Turnigy Nano Cell 15-25C. Really snappy response in semi too. Bad news: it stopped firing after a few bursts. Connected a couple of 7.4v batteries and nothing doing there either. Tried them in the DE, worked. Gutted. But then I realised I hadn't set the battery type in the setup menu. Connected the programming trigger, changed to 11.1v LiPo in the settings, *bingo* back to shooting again. I've not really 'gone for it' since then, I'm setting it aside for the evening: I'd rather go to sleep with a working rifle than stay awake with a broken one I'll give it a workout tomorrow to see what's what. I'll chrono and get a RoF for it, if it's running well. Hopefully those 30C batteries will turn up soon, they'll be interesting

Further update, I have to commend Titan on their customer service again - they've let me pay the difference to upgrade from the 7.4.v stick to the 11.1v nunchuck. So as long as it doesn't die / I don't kill this one too, I'm well sorted for batteries! This means I'll have a variety of C-ratings to play with... I'll probably stick with the lower ones in the DE just because it has a stock motor, and leave the high stuff to the F2000.

Haha, I've actually used one of those! I was a member at Bedford shooting club and burned through a few boxes of ammo through a ruger 10/22 with one of those type of mags... Now I see what the gun inside that beautiful stock is, I'm totally on board now 👍

And I'll annoy everyone by saying 'neither', it needs a short straight mag to make it look more like a hunter's gun rather than something military (which the stock assuredly isn't) But I get your saying 'less ugly', so the curved one for me. At a push.

Update, because Titan have just got in touch. Their engineer reckons 2 and a bit days of the battery left in my gun might have been enough to run it entirely flat to the point it couldn't recharge. Outside of the fact the DE MOSFET is supposed to cut power when it detects a low charge, and it had masses of charge left in after Saturday, and Li-ions aren't supposed to be vulnerable to that anyway, Titan have volunteered to send me another replacement! I can only be impressed with that sort of customer service It'll be a spare though, I've just ordered two 30c 11.1v Li-Pos from eBay, same ones as @Rogerborg ☺️

One description has the capacity at 28 and the other at 31. So it's not a silly or even straightforward question. I'd give them a call before ordering.

An interesting question, as they're obviously about holding the piston at opposite ends of the cylinder. So which takes preference? The Perun manual states: "While precocking is on, the AB setting becomes irrelevant. However, any programmed AB setting will be stored in memory and will become effective as soon as precocking is disabled." Link: https://perunairsoft.pl/hybridv2.pdf

Fitting it in the F2000 tonight, as it seems I just have to de-solder one motor wire and then solder it on to the other one, and attach one signal wire to the open contact. Sounds simple enough! What could possibly go wrong?!?

@Rogerborg It'll be interesting to compare our experiences of the Perun AB++ versus the Gate Merf. I was so close to buying that Perun, before tracking back to the basic version, and then jumping back up the complexity list to the Merf. I'm wondering if I've now made a mistake, missing out on the pre-cocking option for the sake of a few quid. Time will tell...

Haha, well I'm probably getting to the same point but in reverse... Ordered a mosfet this morning, and I've just ordered, well, made an offer close to the asking price for the same batteries, before seeing this thread 😬 I've ordered the Gate merf so have active braking and rof reduction as options, if I have the same problem. (Edit:. Rof reduction doesn't affect semi auto, they leave rof unaffected to aid snappiness) This will be my first MOSFET fitting so might not go smoothly, but I will try to do it as soon as I receive it

I was interested in the same mags so watched a few reviews etc. I think the advice I absorbed was to run the mags at 120 rounds until they'd really settled in, before trying to squeeze them to full capacity. No idea if that's any use in your case though

Thanks @Iceni I've changed my order from the Perun to the Merf. This gun, if it runs well, is probably going to be my primary going forward, so might as well spend an extra few quid to make it as good as possible (it's already a bit of a money pit, compared to the great value of the DE) So thanks for your advice, much appreciated

Understand where we are coming from - we are being told to take security more seriously these days, I constantly get bombarded with stuff at work about phishing attempts actively occurring etc... So let's consider your page: it's a stock photo image of some trees on a one page website, built in seconds on a web site builder. It's more effort than I'd normally credit a spammer for making, which is why I responded in a friendly way first time... but when it's pointed out, it looks (to quote the youth of today) "dodgy AF", and I was glad I'd not entered my email address. If I was putting together a similar page I'd at least have put some effort into the presentation (i.e. an actual airsoft-related image for a start) because - as you've seen first impressions really count. I have to add that your attention to detail is lacking - which isn't a great attribute in a programmer: The email address you've provided has a spelling mistake: I don't know if your email address is really 'enquries' or 'enquiries'. You quoted my same reply twice. Your spelling isn't perfect ('unwarrented'), but everyone makes mistakes, and yet you must be actively ignoring the spell checker underlining your mistakes in red. That makes me wonder how you could write code to run your site. Programmers can't get away with mangling syntax. You definitely need to get someone to proof-read your content if and when you do 'go live' because poor spelling and grammar will not inspire confidence in the reader (That's a thing any developer should do, not just a comment on you) After saying all that, I wish you all the best of luck with your endeavours. Please take this as constructively as you can. That soldiers' personal admin is SHOCKING He's not done up his laces! Poor camo too, insufficiently tacti-cool. And what loadout is that supposed to be? Does he have the correct number of lace-holes in those boots???

Yes, yes you did I guess I'll say in Titan's defence that the jury's still out. It may have been my fault I've managed to break them, but I won't be buying another (just in case) I'm trying to retrain my brain to consider batteries as 'consumables' rather than some monolithically expensive bits of kit, that they were when I first played airsoft. If I kill a £10 battery (as long as it doesn't set fire to my house) it's not really an issue. Killing a £40 Titan will still sting a bit (though their customer service on the first failure was excellent, had a new one couriered to me in days), but I will miss the idiot-proofing* and the huge mAH rating I've already put my order in for the cheapo Perun but those Gate Nano Hard is especially tempting. I may change my order as I don't think it's been dispatched yet. The Merf does indeed also tempt, but I hadn't asked this previously - how well do the burst fire modes work on the two-stage semi/semi semi/auto trigger system in an F2000? Does that break the functionality? * Idiot-wiring not included in idiot-proofing

I've just re-tested the gun - It's running fine on a 7.4v LiPo, an 8.4v NimH, and of course the 11.1v LiPo (which was dangerously low on juice, as it happens) Perhaps logically I'd have to put money on the Titan while the other batteries are ok, but I've now had two of them failing (one with a clickety-click and the outside wrap melting to reveal the gold foil beneath) which suggests something is wrong somewhere. I'm quite prepared to believe it's my wiring or something I've done, but I'm not feeling qualified to work out what The F2000 is getting opened up in the next day or two for a lube and maybe a piston swap, and fitting the Mosfet, so I'll see if there were any potential short circuits that might have done it. I bought the Perun Mosfet w/wiring, I remembered I there's plenty of space in the battery compartment for one of the cheapo battery monitors, so that'll do. I'll buy a couple of cheap Turnigy nano cells from Hobby Kings. I've had one of those fail on me already too, and I didn't think I'd run it completely flat. I hope my unluckiness with batteries doesn't lead to fire / flames / explosions 😕

It looks like I'll need to run an 11.1v battery since I upgraded my gun with a new motor (SHS High Torque Motor 16TPA)... I've perhaps managed to kill a Titan 7.4v 3000mAH by plugging it into this gun. (Or it could be entirely unrelated). Anyway, I'm going to fit a Mosfet so I can use 11.1v batteries in the future. I've already got a Mosfet'd gun in my Double Eagle M906C, and I have to say I don't really need all the advanced features. Binary and burst are both cool, but I've not tended to use either. So I don't need to pay extra for those. I'm perhaps more interested in active braking and pre-cocking, but given my front-runner is the Perun AB++, I'm wondering how effective those are when there are no sensors on the gears? Also, the Perun just does an alarm when the battery gets low, I'd rather it shut off in case I don't hear the alarm and I run it too low and kill it... is that worrying unnecessarily? Are there better options for my limited needs?

I've fired off an email to Titan, to see if the customer service people have any suggestions. It'll be bloody annoying if I can't get it fixed / replaced, the 7.4v Li-Ion is ideal for my non-Mosfet F2000 if it's enough to drive that motor. But if I do have to go the Mosfet route... I'm thinking the Perun AB++ and a bunch of Turnigy Nano-Cell 11.1v sticks should see me all right

I think you might struggle to find a retailer who'd "re-tone" a gun for the same £15, I suspect they're maybe taking a small hit in profit to widen their market place by offering the two toning service. Also I think some guns are manufactured that way? ("Pre two-toned"?) However, I have had great fun painting my guns with some camo paints bought from Halfords (and there are lots more paints on eBay too). Personalised guns FTW! Wear and tear may make the bright colour show though, which might not look as acceptable as some original black or tan paintwork.

Yeah I have one of those little Amazon jobbies... Not a peep (or indeed a beep) out of it... Tried charging with my new SkyRC T100 (which is how I charged it initially) and in desperation the old ASG Balance Charger too. Nothing doing The T100 reports "Connection Break"

Hop unit and bucking arrived and fitted! I actually just got the Lonex bucking as Airsoft World were cheap for the hop unit and p&p, and I could get the Guarder off eBay later (£6 inc p&p) if needed. It's 50deg, and seems nice and flexible - especially compared to the stock item that feels like it designed to survive being nuked from orbit A quick fire test fire in the garden was successful! I could see a difference between hop off and half-on, and it was back to feeding well, whereas it wasn't after my field tech experiment at the weekend (I tried to reinforce the nub, and then tried to pack the bucking window with a bit of thin plastic film. Both caused feeding problems) Obviously there's a difference between my room temperature gun shooting at 15m, compared to out on site at 30+m, but I have a better feeling about it. ------ An issue arose though. I plugged in my Titan 7.4v Li-Ion battery, and it wouldn't shoot. It (the battery) seems to be dead in fact. I can't get it to charge. I suspect my second warranty claim won't be entertained as successfully as the first Is the High Torque motor the cause? Will I need to drive it with an 11.1v now?