RostokMcSpoons

Yeah, looks like it might a small, but consistent air leak I've wound the spring in all the way, I'm up to 255-265fps with the 0.28's, but that means the the FPS is varying by +-5fps (though it is mostly on the 260fps mark) So around the equivalent of 300fps with 0.20's. By comparison my DE is shooting at 288fps, +-2fps, and that was at a slightly lower FPS than the F2000 before the latest bit of monkeying around. I've tried my other 'Adventure Line' mags (that I got when I bought my CA AR15 all those years ago). They feed fine in the F2000 as well, so it's just the DE mag it doesn't like. Which is amusing and appropriate as the DE does not like the F2000 mag! Kind of a shame, I like the F2000 mag, it's got a key winder hole in the side, and using the key is much nicer and quicker than using the winder wheel on the bottom of the mag. And it's longer for a 400rnd capacity. I'd buy a bunch of them if they worked in the DE. Mid-edit edit: Well I wrote all that out, and then I thought "I wonder how much hop there is at the moment". Answer - lots. I wound it all the way off and the FPS jumped to 292-299fps. (Mostly fairly consistent at the lower end of that range at 293, but with the occasional jump to 299). So it's still a bit inconsistent, but it's back up to what I expected, equivalent to ~350fps with 0.20's. With a bit of hop applied and a cold day I should be nicely under the limit. And on a warm day I can wind the spring out too if needed.

Quick test fire this morning... The F2000's supplied mag is feeding great, but the mag that came with my DE M906C is only feeding when I push it up into the mag well and hold it there (it's clicked in place but there's still further movement available). Is there a way of adjusting the location of the mag within the gun? Is it just a case of packing the mag well to encourage it to stay in a good place, or is there anything I can do to the mag catch? FPS is down, I wound the spring guide's Quick FPS change screw all the way out, I'll wind it all the way in, see how that does, as 200fps with 0.28's (with some hop) is, I think, a long way from the 345-355fps (with 0.20s, hopped) that I was getting. Maybe it doesn't like the new nozzle, even though it seemed to fit the cylinder head very nicely. Maybe it's too short and not sealing against the bucking properly?

If you shoot in your own back garden, and BBs leave your private property, you're already breaking the law. Imagine the fun Plod will have with you if you're shooting a gun completely out on public land, two-tone or not. Find someone who has a big garden and get permission to shoot entirely within their property. Or find your local site and ask them nicely to try out your gun on their range. If they think you'll become a player with them, I'm sure they'd be happy to let you. Please

Cheers, I've been looking at it, I've been able to flatten the auto contacts back a millimetre or two, so I think I've got some margin to play with again. Stuck a bit of blu-tack on the trigger, covered in foil to test-shim it, it works Now superglued a washer on the trigger... AND IT WORKS... PROPERLY Safety, Single shot, Short-pull on Full Auto gives one shot, all the way back ... rat-a-tat-a-tat Lovely Thank you SO MUCH guys for sticking with me, the fact you haven't pissed off in a cloud of dust really encouraged me to keep going, and the toys didn't have to come out the pram at all (Edit: Oh crap, the one thing I haven't done before putting every last nut and bolt back in place... check the beast actually feeds properly: I put in that new nozzle (Shiny! Shiny!) and it's probably a different spec to the original. It might not actually work! Something for tomorrow's test shoot in the garden. For the moment I'm resting on my laurels and cracking open a beer or two!)

I've actually got my gun put back together for the first in a few days... because it's actually worth testing. And guess what? It won't fire on semi auto when the gearbox is in the gun ? I'm guessing the trigger has to travel further back to make contacts within the new trigger assembly than it did before. This feels odd / wrong because it was always a small gap between semi and full auto, and the trigger mechanism (with the long operating rod system) barely looks like a piece of precision engineering! And now it must be tiny. I've ensured the gearbox is seated fully forward within the stock, and properly held in by the screwed-in back-plate. (I've even tried a bit of manual pressure too, to encourage it forwards the extra half millimetre or so - but that didn't do it) So I'm asking: is there anyway to adjust that trigger operating rod's reach in semi-auto? Do I need to open up the gearbox for the 57 millionth time and adjust the contacts inside? Or should I physically shim the trigger so the trigger rod makes contact with it more easily?

Mixed reviews? Would be interested to see 'em Quite a few owners here... apart from the rubbish spring, which loses power faster than me cycling up a slight incline, I think we're all happy with ours.

Double Eagle FTW, if you can find stock... Metal bodied (M906 upwards), MOSFET with burst/binary etc, seem to be reliable except for needing a spring change (and there's a quick change system so it's easy-peasy) If only Patrolbase had some stock (but they haven't since I bought the last one in November), they've got the M906's at £135. Pester them to see if they'll be getting any soon, might be worth a pre-order. https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/double-eagle-m906-fire-control-system-edition

Couldn't wait for lunchtime... threw it in there. Trigger felt a little rough compared to last time, so wasn't sure if I'd messed something up, but.... It.... seems... to... be... working! Yes I'd love an alternative COL @ak2m4 because I have no idea how long my bodge superior quality superglue engineering will last. But the concept is definitely proven! More material for the sector gear to cam against = bingo, bango, and indeed bongo!* *(unless whatever happened to the trigger to make it feel rough has actually helped)

I've snipped a bit of scalpel blade and superglued it on. It's flat rather than curved, and lord knows if it'll survive even a second of being hit by the cam whizzing around at ~18 rotations per second, but it's survived me filing the edges of it (and the surgical steel is pretty tough to file - it'll be the glue failing if anything) I'll fit it at lunchtime and see what happens.

Pics for your delectation... Apologies for the cat hairs making an appearance, they're everywhere thanks to The Beast Edit: Gate got back to me again. They're suggesting I glue something on to the COL to make it raise the trolley higher. That's a high-wear location, do you you think a piece of metal shim super-glued there will hold? I suppose there's only one way to find out...

It didn't work, still the same as the previous test. Am I going to have to buy some bigger hammers at this point? Or perhaps do some sort of shimming of the underside of the trolley, so the COL moves it more when it hits?

Well blimey, I've only just read this thread, but earlier I stripped it all down and put in the old COL (it looks absolutely identical to the new part) and actually did try putting the spring in both ways! Maybe I unconsciously absorbed your suggestion from previous posts, or maybe I forgot how it's supposed to go in ? Anyway, now I've got it back together the nozzle movement and the trigger actuation actually feels a little smoother than before. Maybe something else wasn't quite right, or maybe the spring orientation really does make a difference... I can't tell. Unfortunately my wife decided to go to sleep early so I can't test fire it. Will do that first thing tomorrow!

You need to ask @Asomodai as he's done all that...

The original COL looks pristine. Now I have a Rocket COL + Rocket trigger unit not working properly together, guess we have to blame that on the gearbox shell... or the sector gear. I will swap the original back in to see if works differently with the Rocket trigger unit. Next thing will be a new gear set.

Oh damnit I've just put in the new trigger unit, cut-off lever, bushings, adjusted the shims appropriately, and used my new nozzle. My 'cunning plan' of super-short burst + lowered RoF still got me good single shot performance, in fact it's better than before as I didn't get any double-taps. Then I reset to default semi/auto and got the bad news. It now fires full auto all the time, rather than occasionally doing the semi-auto successfully. I'm not ruling out a mistake on my part, but I double-checked the fitting and wiring before test firing. I did notice the new trigger unit is differently sized to the original, so maybe I try the shuttle/dolly thing with the old trunnion and vice-versa to see if that changes anything. Or swap the COL back, as that seemed to move only a small amount when engaged by the sector gear... so perhaps that's the issue. Anyway, one good piece of news for me is that I managed to strip the gearbox, fit the new parts, and get it back together and firing in the space of an hour. Thinking back to the first time I took a gearbox apart and then spent ~7 hours trying to put it back together, I have come quite a long way!

Can you guess what is yet? Of course you can't - it's camouflaged and therefore invisible to the naked eye! British Army surplus MTP kit... UBACS shirt Windproof smock Trousers (All sized for someone who ate all the pies for lunch and had a couple of doughnuts for dessert) So that's my late autumn / winter / early spring camo sorted - the SpecOps site is mostly golden brown now so this should work a little better than my S95 DPM kit (which I think will still get used when the leaf cover returns). Desert pattern would probably have worked even better, but this is obviously a good all-year camo anyway. Also, arriving in the same postman's visit... V3 trigger unit, cut-off lever, nozzle and bushings for the next stage in my attempt to sort out the F2000's semi-auto problem. Wish me luck!

I've just ordered a nozzle from AK2M4 as it happens. It'll either go in my AK or my F2000, I'll probably try both. It's very very slightly longer than the stock TM one, so it might end up needing a new home

That's a very generous offer Iceni, but hopefully I'll be able to jam all the parts in and make it work. I've got three different hammers, how could it possibly fail? I rather wish it was the MOSFET, that'd just be a warranty replacement, or swapping for a Perun, or even just reverting to the old wiring, rather than this mystery box stuff! Oh, I've got a replacement COL on order too.

It's not shaped like an M4, so it's not airsoft The world doesn't need another M4, it needs some wacky shit with some personality to it, so well played!

My cunning plan of programming the 'fet has resulted in a gun which mostly fires semi, but throws in a double-tap every four or five shots. I expect I could get away with that, if I had to. But let's face it: the trigger action is bad enough with F2000's (and maybe bullpups in general) that you don't want to spend the whole game yanking away on the damned thing! Plus I upgraded this gun to enjoy some high RoF antics (not full wanker-mode, obvs) I must say I'm disappointed that a Cyma-built gun has turned out to be quite this fragile. Or perhaps my upgrade attempts have been a bit too ham-fisted. Edit: Is there any chance the cam on the bottom of the sector gear could be the problem? Should I buy a new gear too?

Just took the gearbox apart again, moved one of the thicker shims on the sector gear from the bottom to the top, in the hope it would engage better with the COL. And tried your thing of removing the trigger contacts. As per usual, it worked fine on the first couple of shots, where I was squeezing the trigger gently, but as soon as I got slightly medieval on its ass and tried a more realistic trigger pull, "rat-a-tat-a-tat" I'm going to re-set the wiring to use the MOSFET again, to try my cunning plan, and then it's down to those alternative parts. Confidence is not very high

I forgot to breathe and it nearly killed me ?

I've looked again at the manual for the Merf. I think if in the worst case I can't fix this, I change it to SEMI/BURST... and then tweak the burst timer down to its minimum, and set the RoF reduction to its maximum and so if/when it goes wrong it fires only a one - or at worst two - shots and I can then get away with using it at my site It'll be an interesting experiment for tonight anyway!

I saw that! But... Compatible only with G&G F2000’s without an ETU (pre-2019) I'm not sure if that means 'only G&G' or really 'Only V3s without an ETU'. Given the G&G doesn't use a standard v3 gearbox, I'd have to ask them first. Cheers It'll be great to have my pew-pew pew, or pew-pew-pew on demand

The COL shouldn't be worn, the gun was new at Xmas, it's had a less than a couple of thousand BBs through it. I have taken it all apart a few times though, and as I'm still "low on the foothills of Experience Mountain", I may have buggered it up somewhere along the line. The fact it does work quite often before deciding it'd rather crap over everything is odd. A bit of heat in the system makes it go wrong? Maybe a tiny bit of expansion makes a 0.01mm difference somewhere and that's enough to b0rk it. However, I've now seen enough other people complaining about similar issues with their F2K's (though mostly G&G which is very differently built) that maybe it's something that can just easily occur. Hopefully the Rocket after-market parts will get it back on track, but I will try your suggestion tonight in the meantime.