Hatchet

My belief was, under CCR you had 14 days from receipt to effectively just change your mind for no reason. Limitations on this include something that deteriorates quickly – like flowers or food an item that was personalised or custom-made anything from a private individual rather than a business a CD, DVD or software, if the seal is broken Pierced earrings and other items that are unhygienic to resell but that doesn't seem to cover motors. Same way you can return clothes, etc. I'd imagine there's some stipulations on them being undamaged. Putting that aside, it should be relatively easy to test them on return to see that they are, indeed, still working. They've probably had more usage going through initial QC... Additionally, they give a year's warranty on it which makes you think it's pretty robust... I did, but it was medium which isn't up to the job (to be fair, they mention recommending Red as a minimum, but I was using generic threadlock described as "medium"). In the meantime I have ordered some Green. Which does mean I'll need a heat gun if I ever want to take it apart again.

Well, not much to report. I am trying to see if I can get it swapped for a Standard speed instead, but apparently they (Warhead) won't do swaps if it is "used". This seems strange given the videos found on that there Youtube promoting how robust/indestructible they are. I could understand if it was sent back on fire with all the tabs snapped off, etc. but would have thought that's pretty easy to test. Don't really want to go down the route of Consumer Contract Regulations (formerly DSR), so I'm hoping they'll have a change of heart. I see the new Ronin they've built switches out the connectors for pre-wired, which looks like a way of avoiding the tab snapping problem, but don't think it would work at all on a 249 sadly.

Urgh, kind of wish I'd read this earlier. I'm about 3 weeks into an order that was "in stock", so we shall see what happens.

I've started using those as well. Went with XT60's for ages, but I find deans easier to re-use. The Amass ones are easier to grip but they're also easier to pull apart anyway (but still hold well). I still heat shrink the connectors though. My soldering skills are massively crap too (as in, "how is the table on fire and the connectors have melted but the fucking solder is still a solid!"), but an adjustable temp one has helped a bit.

I'll add Reaper's Airsoft to the list. You will need to use subtitles and translate (unless you're a German speaker), but the level of depth is really impressive. Pistol reviews regularly an hour long, etc.

I had the same with my Guarder one (which looks identical). As far as I can work out, the length the flashhider sticks out beyond the lugs is probably off a few mm. It might be possible to file down the front of the flashhider to get it to fit, but that's not something I fancy doing. From the disassembly video I watched, the flashhider and front sight are a one piece, so if you significantly arse it up, that's what needs replacing. Internally, my suppressor has a metal disc that prevents it being pushed too far on. I suspect this isn't very thick and nothing good will come of trying to thin this down.

Filed down the gearbox, fitted it ok. I have the high speed (which is the middle of the range). It is ridiculously fast even on standard gears and I should probably have gone for the standard. Well, it was fast, until the grub screw on the pinion unscrewed and started gouging the gearbox shell... Back to the drawing board, and also the shops to get green loctite

Was it Redcap again? (I may be showing my age here)

And, whilst you don't get quite the same benefit as you would with a semi-spamming build, having a motor that runs longer without getting hot and is more power efficient isn't a bad thing. In all honesty, it's curiosity rather than a specific need that's prompted me to get one, but we're here now, so...

Well, it turns out it doesn't fit the M249. The position of the spade connectors relative to the back of the bell housing (I might be making these words up) is different and it won't clear the gearbox shell. Fortunately as I was being super careful for once, I discovered this without snapping anything off. There's not a huge amount in it, so it might work with some filing of the gearbox. A job for the weekend I suspect. One benefit I have enjoyed already is not having all my screws/tools/belt buckles fly towards it whilst installing like they do with the current motor.

As said, the PTS EPS gives you a lot of options. You can get a 7.4v 2900 35c brick in there, or pretty much any stick type battery (will fit 11.1v titan too).

What he said. I usually run a couple of HSGI's on the belt and top up from chest rig. The emdom MM dump pouch has always worked way better for me than the standard flappy ones. If you really don't want to go down that route then HSGI's do still meet the original objective of being easy enough to put mags back into, but it's an expensive way to do things and will take up a lot more real estate.

From what they're saying the performance on the BASE won't be as good as the Black, but still better than standard brushed. I guess it's comparable to the upgrade from HDD on PC's to SSD's. Even the slow SATA SSD's are better than the HDDs. I'm not entirely sold on the Titan batteries. Some articles seem to suggest they're not up to the job. But if they work for you, fair enough. I always favour the largest brick with the highest C I can get in there, but Ak's... not a lot of choices I guess.

As an alternative to ammo boxes, these Bat Safes might be worth considering. I've got one, although obviously I've not put it to the test (and hope never to have to).

This video on it is very interesting, particularly the amp draw and energy efficiency parts. Spoliers, 5800 shots out of an 1000mah battery on the Warhead, vs 1000 on a Lonex A1...

Is there any chance of battery storage in that? (assuming they can be found anywhere...)

Ah, I ran my AT2000R for the first time at the weekend and had the flashing whilst not shooting happen to me. I had assumed it was due to low battery (had done maybe 3000+ rounds in the morning) but then off/on seemed to resolve it. One to watch perhaps.

Bunch of possibilities, but hard to say. L85 has a slightly different grip angle, further forward and also takes M4 mags, so worth a look. Some of the AK variants possibly (LCT AK12 maybe?) Other oddballs like P90 might work. Or, get a HPA based M4 and stick a 15 degree pistol grip on it.

Be interesting to hear more about this. If it's a recall it's very quiet (nothing on any of their official channels, or on any of the news sites). I could see why they might want to keep something like that quiet, but surely must know that'd be impossible as soon as dealers start phoning people up. Odd. Or it's an elaborate ruse to thin out the competition for guns/spare mags.

Like others have said, could just be a duff battery. If the specs on the battery are accurate then they should be sufficient. First thing I'd do would be to change the connector out. If you're good at soldering, change it for the MR30's, if you're average then just change the adapter/converter from Tamiya to deans (or mini-deans). There are a couple of battery options posted earlier if you do want to try another one and they should only be around £15 - £16. Yeah, those SOPMOD batteries weren't great. Conceptually a cool idea, but not well executed. Then again, we know the new Marui one will be a lipo. And will undoubtedly be designed to fit perfectly. I'll be interested to see the specs, but I'll confess I don't understand why it's going to have the third wire or exactly how that's going to work. I mean, you can already get voltage monitoring on the Gate mosfets and they only have the battery pos/neg running to them. Electrics not my speciality.

I'm kind of tempted, although I'm guessing it's actually a solid, solid stock and thus no good for batteries? Interested to know the results. Unsurprisingly their torch is out of stock (like almost everything else in the world right now)

Yeah, I got the notification and there were 54 on there. Gone before I could get any (at work)

You could do, although you'd have a "spare" wire and then presumably not be able to take advantage of Marui's battery when it comes out. I'm not sure what the third wire would be used for but I'm guessing at battery cell monitoring of some sort. Probably a smarter choice to just make up a connector though (as Jebus has illustrated)

First game day today and it ran well, despite my attempts to dig a trench with the magazines. I need to build a more MP5 specific rig. Hicaps ran well enough, trigger response and accuracy good, although I really feel some sort of micro red-dot would aid in the first round hits. Was surprised by how fast I burned through the mags. Not the ideal gun for going prone, of which there was a lot today. Also, only used about 50% of the battery, which I felt was pretty good considering how much I was shooting. Spoke to another user who says a small titan brick will fit and who'd got a slightly stronger spring in. There was a noticeable difference, but I didn't feel compelled to rush out for upgrades just yet. The site was Green Ops, which is basically rhododendron jungle fighting, with a couple of slightly more open areas, so a good test environment. It might have struggled more in open woodland. 3rd burst is still brilliant.