Jump to content

alxndrhll

Members
  • Posts

    988
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    17
  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by alxndrhll

  1. Aye, I did what many seem to do with the carrier itself and picked it up bit by bit as they came in stock, just waiting on a 5.56 placard in MC (I love the micro rig as a chest rig, not a huge fan of it mounted on a PC) and the back panel at this point. The cumberbund I'm using is ranger green while the plate bags are Multicam... which I've actually grown to like. The only real downside to the carrier is having no convenient way to integrate carrying a 48ci tank on the back at present. I've always carried my tanks in an old (read as 'VERY old') Eagle Industries MAP pack but the lack of MOLLE on the rear plate bag removes that as an option. I'm currently stuck between waiting on the Spiritus back panels to turn up over here (and hoping the 'main' compartment fits what I'm hoping it'll fit), just running a regular small backpack/hydration carrier using shoulder straps with the carrier slick or selling it and picking up an FCPC because it seems like a very similar carrier but gives me my MAP pack back. Not in a huge rush given where we're at, but a complication I find myself thinking about far too much at present.
  2. Extremely jealous of the Spiritus back panel, have been waiting what feels like an age for them to turn up somewhere over here... and seemingly continue to do so. Fingers crossed that wait is over before too long. Lovely gathering of bits!
  3. Don’t suppose anyone has a source for lexan/polycarb discs? Been on the hunt for a while to protect a weapon light/replica T2 to no avail, found plenty of acrylic but I suspect that’s not really up to the task... though happy to be told otherwise. Obviously not in a rush given the current situation, but it’s been on my ‘get this at some point’ list long enough to become irritating!

    1. Show previous comments  6 more
    2. proffrink

      proffrink

      eBay? That's where I got mine at least. Most will do any size you like if you message them too.

  4. During initial installation the main thing that tends to need addressing is nozzle alignment. Often, but not always, you'll need to add shims to the outside of the gearbox casing/inside of the receiver to ensure the nozzle is sitting centred. Outside of that there is the potential for leaks, generally caused by loose fittings or dead o-rings. Then you're largely looking at issues with hop parts not marrying up... but that's no different to when you start playing around with the hop/barrel of any RIF. Ultimately that'll be entirely subjective based on the results you're wanting/expecting and how realistic those wants/expectations are, as mentioned above. Worth noting that these are 'general HPA things' to be aware of, not specific to installation on the specific RIF you've mentioned. There are a whole bunch of YouTube videos covering HPA installation so worth taking a look there if you haven't already.
  5. Might just be worded poorly which results in being misleading, but there is no way that is genuine Surefire suppressor (largely because real ones cost north of $1000) if that is legitimately what is being claimed here. Decent quality repro’s tend to be pricey for sure (ones with trades tend to run around the £80 mark, varying based on which one they're a replica of), and quite hard to track down with trades but buyer beware.
  6. They tend to be a bit more expensive (about an extra £10 if memory serves) but the latest iteration of the DTD retention holsters are injection moulded rather than 3D printed (though as mentioned previously the quality of the material is just as important as the process of manufacture). I have one and it’s very sturdy, retention is great. I do tend to mount my Mk23 in a generic universal holster which is cable tied to my chest rig these days, and use a 3D printed stubby suppressor to reduce how awkward the draw is with a more conventional holster (how you play will tend to dictate how important a quick draw is). This is largely down to how I’m playing when using the Mk23, much more crouching/laying/prone at awkward angles so I found it much easier to access on my chest versus my leg. I’ll leave a link here to the DTD one, worth researching to see if places have them cheaper if it’s a route you’d be interested in. There’s a few colours, and left handed versions available (thought I believe the left handed versions are still 3D printed). Also worth noting you’d need some sort of attaching clip, I’ll pop links below for the options I’m aware of: Belt Clip MOLLE Paddle Good luck in figuring out which way you want to go, hopefully this is useful for making an informed decision.
  7. I got back into airsoft 'properly' at the tail end of 2019 to try and ease a creeping feeling of isolation following relocating for work, little did I know that'd become a theme in 2020.

    It certainly hasn't been the year I'd hoped for, but I want to take a moment to thank those of you I've had interactions with on here. It may not be much, but it's helped me not go entirely insane. I don't really buy into that our calendar means much of anything when it comes to new years rolling round, but here's hoping things become a bit more enjoyable over the next few months.

    1. Adolf Hamster

      Adolf Hamster

      Yeah we've all lost varying degrees of sanity this year.

       

      But whilst its been a hell of a year and things still aint so good at least the future is looking hopeful for getting back to normality, which in our case is dressing up as soldiers and shooting each other :P

    2. Impulse

      Impulse

      You and me both. I got back into airsoft in Octboer 2019. Suffice to say, I don't feel like I'm well and truly back yet thanks to lockdowns

  8. It's hard to gauge precisely from here, but I agree that I doubt the airbrake is doing anything given the cylinder head design. Also looks like the ring on the head of the SCW piston does zero to cushion the impact due to the taper on the cylinder head. So it's just a straight metal on metal contact, hence the increase in sound over the stock one. Granted I know you're limited to 1J, but I shouldn't imagine that'll do either component much good! It's weird because I don't recall the AA cylinder I put in my old VSR having the taper, but if it had that would certainly explain why the SCW piston was louder than anticipated. Granted I was coming from HPA, which makes everything else seem loud.
  9. Out of curiosity what was the design of the original piston? Cup style or ring style? It may purely be coincidence but I’ve tended to find that the ‘cup’ style pistons (stock SRS, WASP and SAP) are generally quieter than the ‘ring’ style pistons (stock Marui, SCW etc etc). My best guess is the cup design natively generates less of a ‘slap’ against the cylinder head, but that could be entirely anecdotal. As for air brakes, I can’t say I’ve ever found them making much if any difference when it comes to sound. I’ve found them useful for tuning FPS and that’s about it (which is why I think the SAP has the best one, because it being threaded means any changes are reversible).
  10. Such a useful bit of kit. I initially got mine for cleaning up/pinning tabletop miniatures... now it’s predominantly used for making air line holes in things. Most recently a pair of BCM Gunfighter grips (got one in black and one in FDE because I couldn’t decide on a colour) which arrived yesterday from Brownells, amongst other things, to go on my MTW. So far: MTW Forged SBR B5 Systems stock Replica T2 on replica Geissele mount BCM Gunfighter Mod 3 grip BCM Gunfighter Mod 3 foregrip BCM Gunfighter rail covers Surefire Scout Light Magpul Off-set Mount Replica dual pressure pad Good ‘ol Ranger Bands Waiting on: Black PTS EPMs (original ones) Replica Surefire Mini2 w/ four prong tuning fork PTS Enhanced Iron Sights Some QD sling fixings to attach my Slingster (which was a Christmas present from my long suffering girlfriend) The will to remove the barrel nut and mod the dust cover so it closes
  11. I often thought the same when it came to different kinds of stippling, pleasantly surprised by the 'comfort' (though somewhat irrelevant because I play wearing gloves). Was also surprised by just how 'grippy' it is.
  12. Definitely a departure from my usual tastes, but I’m into it.
  13. Aye, the marrying up of parts definitely feels like 'the trick' when it comes to tech work.. alongside the acceptance that a RIF 'working prefectly' only lasts so long. Nothing more painful than taking out a barrel to clean it having had it work beautifully all day, to put it back together and have something throw a wobbly. Ahh maintainance. Definitely a pretty fascinating thing to consider though, during your average skirmish day you don't tend to have a sterile environment to compare yourself versus others. Even though it's just for a bit of fun it's certainly interesting, I'd love to have a go at some sort of target shooting next year.
  14. I don't think I had a good understanding of how RIFs were performing until I started messing around with tracer units, was definitely an eye opener into how bad I was at setting hop earlier on in my days of playing. And also how bad I was at tracking the flight of BBs, something I'm still not great at. Does speak volumes as to how far taking the time to understand the very basics of what each part in a RIF does. Truthfully I think the point at which it really clicked for me has been working on my SRS and MTWs. The modular nature of how they come apart made it so easy for me to really wrap my head around what each sub section of a RIF is there to do. Please feel free to correct me if I'm wrong and I'll happily edit, the last thing I want to do is spread misinformation. My very rough break down of RIF sub sections: 'The Back' - Your cylinder, spring (if applicable), piston, nozzle etc. These are the parts which govern your power, power will increase your BBs travel time. 'The Middle' - Your hop unit and all that falls within it. These are the parts which govern your range, range will increase how far your BBs go. This is the part where 'the back' meets 'the front', if your seal and alignment of the back and front meeting is off you're in for a bad time in terms of consistency. 'The Front' - Your barrel, nice and easy. This is the part which governs your accuracy, accuracy will result in better groupings. I still don't fully understand 'which barrels are best'... largely becasuse like everything in airsoft there isn't objectively a best (despite how much faith folks put into anecdotal evidence). The only things I can say for sure are that a tighter bore will increase your power versus a wider bore, and the tighter the bore the more necessary regular barrel cleaning is (you should maintain your barrel in either case). Intentionally very basic, and I'm sure there are many caveats but it helped me break down the 'airsoft jargon'. There are a lot of terms thrown around in airsoft, I can certainly see how that can be a bit of minefield.
  15. I can only speak for the SRS one but it's a lovely bit of kit. So much to move around to tune it exactly as you like, the threaded airbrake is a very intelligent move. Swapping out the weighted sleeves is super easy, the only real thing to be cautious of is the lube you're using on/around the buffer/dampening ring. It's advised to not use anything with silicon in it because that ring will absorb it which will eventually cause it to swell and need to be swapped out (my SRS one came with a spare, can't speak for the VSR one). Though I do suspect if you're on the hunt to try and make a VSR running a spring as quiet as HPA you're going to be sorely disappointed. Cheers, Alex
  16. Found myself with a huge amount of renewed excitement to get back to some CQB once able (next year at this point), fancy picking up a smaller 'primary'. I'm currently between a TM MP7, ASG MP9 or a fancy Hicapa. The latter of which likely drawing my interest more than the others at present, largely because it'd be an entirely new thing to me as someone that historically isn't a 'pistol guy'. It's nice to have things to look forward to.

    1. Show previous comments  5 more
    2. alxndrhll

      alxndrhll

      I’m up North currently, Manchester area. The sites I referenced as not being overly impressed were The Mill and Anzio Camp, both being run by FAO. Neither were ‘bad’ to the point of never wanting to return, but definitely not ‘good’ enough for them to be a site I attend regularly.

       

      Dagger Woods is the woodland site I immediately fell in love with, and Level 2 is the site I’m most looking forward to trying whenever that ends up being possible. Both run by the same company, so fingers crossed its run similarly to Dagger Woods.

       

      That seems like reasonable grounds to not want to return, especially if you’re buying parts and fitting them yourself. I ended up putting in an order yesterday, not being able to go and do anything over the festive period courtesy of restrictions and an entirely unexpected end of year bonus combined perfectly for a late Christmas present to myself. I’ll definitely bookmark Rainbow8, I can see how customising these things gets addictive.

    3. Steveocee

      Steveocee

      @alxndrhll Ah! Yes FAO, not the best of companies. I too have the same feelings over Anzio. Not a bad site but the running of seems to lack a little, I also found the lead marshall quite unphased, almost like he didn't really want to be there.

       

      I'm over the hills from you in Derbyshire but do intend on making the trip over to Level2 as well as I agree it looks amazing. I'm lucky this side and have The Dept and recently opened ProjectX & Skirmish CQB to play at (when they're open).

       

      The hi-capa slope is long and slippery! Whatever you do, don't keep a note of how much you spend lol

    4. alxndrhll

      alxndrhll

      Just feels very much like a case that they've been around for a long time and have their way of doing things. If you like that way, all power to you. Anzio for me was just over use of the same buildings, every game felt like it was playing out the same irrelevant of what 'the objective' was. Can't say I personally had any issues with the marshalls, though I'm not generally a fan of volunteer marshalls that tag in and out of playing/marshalling.

       

      I'm definitely hoping to do some travelling around myself once that's something we can do so hopefully we'll run into each other at some point!

       

      Haha, by some miracle I've managed to land within budget on the initial build. I suspect I'll want an advanced frame at some point but very much going to 'run it till it breaks' as it comes to me and then tinker from there. Only things I'm eyeing up replacing in the near-ish future would be the grip screws and hammer, but that's definitely a cosmetic thing over anything else.

  17. I guess that’s very much a personal play style thing. When I started off the trip down the bolt action route I always thought I was a fairly passive player, generally happy to sit back and plink away from the rear line. It may well be that I was just more ready to ‘get stuck in’ following not being able to play courtesy of lockdowns but I found I was using my pistol much more than I thought I’d be. But ohh boy do I like having that extra distance on those days where the mind is more willing than the body. And that’s before the considerations of accuracy versus distance etc... but that’s a whole other conversation not particularly suited to this thread.
  18. Truthfully I think the sites you’re playing at can ultimately dictate how ‘worthwhile’ using a bolt action is. Most of my bolt action builds have had an effective range of somewhere between 75/85m which is definitely an advantage over ‘normal RIFs’. But I am yet to find a site where I could consistently take advantage of it. You don’t truly realise how irritating nature being in the way can get until you’re only firing one shot at a time with an interval between 😅. I still love using a bolt action, but have definitely come around to it being something I switch to for a few games rather than running for a whole day. The plot thickens. Truthfully I'm not sure how much of a difference the suit is making here, just sounds like they knew what they were doing in terms of a good spot to be and used the lighting (or lack thereof) to their advantage. You really don't need to be dressed up like a bush to take advantage of poor lighting conditions. Though I do concur with others that if there were explicit instructions that armbands were indeed supposed to go on arms, then that's where they should have been.
  19. It’s entirely possible I’m just awful at implementing the suit for it to be beneficial, but using a bolt action combined with some form of ghillie/leaf suit felt really counter intuitive to me after a few days playing with it. Bolt actions inherently cause an increase in movement, and even when you have a range advantage it’s not often many of your engagements fall outside of the usual 50/60m range. At which point that repeated movement you have to make to rack the bolt is very much noticeable. Though I imagine it’s much less of ‘a thing’ if you’re running a light spring with a weighted piston, or have HPA’d your bolt action. My most successful days out dressed up as a bush (with regard to ‘effective concealment’) have been when running HPA’d AR with a suppressor. All the benefits of a well tuned/quietened bolt action with none of the draw backs. Granted, playing with an MED is something that definitely started to grate on me and is the primary reason I found myself returning to old HPA habits. Obviously entirely depends on what you’re going for, if you want that full immersion of being a ‘sniper’ then more power to you. Just noting my anecdotes having gone from HPA plus a viper hood, through to full suit with a bolt action, and eventually looping back round to where I started.
  20. My loose understanding is that Mack’s is predominantly to prevent, or at least try to, the sale items which are over priced. Not to try and drag the way some folks play the game through the mud. One of these things is fairly objective, the other entirely subjective. If this doesn’t line up with your opinion we’ll have to agree to disagree, which again, is fine.
  21. As touched on by @Adolf Hamster movement/understanding of your environment is far more ‘overpowered’ (fuck me do I hate that term) than any form of camouflage. As for the armbands thing, they don’t exist to give people’s position away they exist as a means of distinguishing which team your on. If you choose to make that information less obvious, then you can’t complain if the lack of it gets you nailed by someone on your team. TLDR - Ghillie/leaf suits are just another variant of costume, if they’re working for the user then it’s because the user knows what they’re doing... and they could get much the same result without wearing one. Edit: This is a reply from someone that uses ghillie/leaf suits and is absolutely not someone that knows how to use them.
  22. I have seen an alarming amount of cases of folks where I genuinely cannot figure out why airsoft is a hobby they continue to engage with. I’m aware as a public forum there will be a variety of opinions shared here, some matching mine and others conflicting them. And that’s entirely fine, it’s what keep the game interesting and keeps innovation/iteration moving. People like different things, people want different things... and that’s ok. And no, that isn’t my sale 👀
  23. Eh, my personal preference/thoughts is drum mags only look right on specific RIFs... often, but not limited to, ‘support weapons’. But I don’t tend to try pushing my opinions on others. Irrelevant of how folks get enjoyment out of what they use and how they use it, I’d rather have folks to play with/against than not. I’ve said it before, but people spend far too much time worry about what other people are doing/using. Often to the detriment of their own enjoyment. I swear airsoft is a secondary hobby to some, with the primary hobby being ‘moaning about airsoft’.
  24. PSA, if you enquire about an item on the classifieds with a view to buy and then change your mind have the common courtesy to tell the seller. You’re well within your right to change your mind and spend your hobby pennies as you wish, but fuck me are woeful communication skills infuriating.

     

    Much better, I needed that.

    1. Show previous comments  4 more
    2. Adolf Hamster

      Adolf Hamster

      oh never agree to hold things, first person to pop up with the money is first to get it.

       

      only exception is if you're chatting with a few folk at one time then i tend to go in order of whoever messaged first (assuming they take a normal amount of time to reply)

    3. Skara

      Skara

      Yup, never hold shit.

       

      Anyone who takes more than 24 hours to decide is simply wasting your time.

    4. Mad Max

      Mad Max

      It also works the other way,i wanted to buy a RIF messaged the seller ,agreed to buy  asked for paypal  address and then nothing,bloke went dark on me .

      How hard is it to let someone know that things have changed.

      Be polite in both buying and selling ,you never know one day you may come face to face and have to have a Duel  for  Honour ..lol

  25. Same as the others have said with the addition of, it'll hurt your wallet more than any BB could ever hurt them*. *Assuming they have good quality eye and face pro, which they will... courtesy of you.
×
×
  • Create New...