Airsoft-Ed

Airsoft_Mr B · June 30, 2014

The MP5s are fooking phenomenal, I bought one as my first ever AEG and it's still running like new 3 years later.

Very highly recommended, I've got a review in the review section somewhere.

June 30, 2014

Those filled in cogs are actually supposed to be like that, they act as a block to stop you from turning the hop past maximum in either direction.

June 30, 2014

G&G M14s are fairly decent DMRs right out of the box, mine came shooting at 390, all I did was put a tightbore and .30s in it and it was an absolute laser beam.

Easy to lock to semi too.

Not sure about how easy Version 7s are to work on though, as I could never even figure out how to get to the G&G one...

SR25s have version 2 gearboxes, the G&G one has a standard V2 and a long hop, so the gearbox has more or less endless potential, but you're pretty limited when it comes to hop options, so you'll have to decide whether you think the hop or the gearbox are more important.

Personally I think they're pretty equally important, which is what makes SR25 builds a pain imo =/

You could put a Polarstar Fusion engine into the G&G though; it's a drop in fit, you'd just need the longer Polarstar nozzle.
They're expensive, but you could easily spend more than that turning it into an AEG DMR and it wouldn't be as reliable so I think it's a good route to take.

If you want to build a DMR on the cheap, then the G&G SR25 will do the job.

June 30, 2014

Perhaps the Spectre I used was one of the shoddier copies then.

June 30, 2014

I know what you mean about them being too bright.

The Docter I have on top of my ACOG has a very good light sensor for effective auto-brightness changes, in total darkness it turns off though. That's actually how you turn it off, cover the sensor up with the sight cover.

But it's essentially always at the dimmest it can be for you to still see it clearly, unless it's too dark to be on. Additionally, because the light emitter is so incredibly tiny, it doesn't give you away as much as the huge ones EOTechs use, for example.

I have this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Reflex-Auto-Brightness-Mini-Red-Dot-Sight-Rifle-Scope-20mm-Rail-Docter-UK-00055-/181327666184?_trksid=p2054897.l5658

But I managed to get it as a package with an ACOG for £100 from RSOV.

June 30, 2014

I'm guessing you haven't used a clone Docter sight then? They're as effective as any other dot sight, they can be adjusted and they're no less precise either. They're not just pieces of clear plastic with a red ink plodge in the middle, they're actual holographic style sights and sell individually for between £30 and £80.

Those iron sights on the other hand, are fixed and barely 6 inches apart and don't sell individually as far as I know - because they're useless. There's not a chance in hell of them being useable.

I don't have a scientific source for saying that the eye relief on the Spectres is no better than ACOGs, but if you use both then you'll see what I mean.

In fact, it's quite possible that the internal structure, organisation and size of the lenses etc. of both ACOGs and Spectres are identical with regard to the airsoft clones, the Spectres are just in a chunkier shell. The front and back lenses aren't actually lenses, they aren't part of what provides the magnification, they're just like shields for the actual internal gubbins, which in ACOGs at least, can be removed in a lump by taking the rear of the sight off.

Conversely, never do that. The sight will fog slightly if moisture gets inside it, and any tiny bits of fluff or finger prints that you get on the internal lenses will be clear as day when you look through the sight.

...And they're the biggest cock in the universe to get back together.

June 30, 2014

Did you just post the quote on purpose?

I realised after reading it again that it looks like it could be meant as a personal dig, that's not the case, I was just playfully continuing the pedantry theme lol.

June 30, 2014

It's unlikely you'd be able to see a problem with the o-ring. If gas can escape then there only has to be the tiniest of holes for it to leak out from, you're never going to be able to spot it.

If you're sure it's coming from the release valve, then you could just buy a new valve, try getting hold of WE Europe on Facebook, I think they have a website too.

In the meantime, you could try wrapping some PTFE tape around the valve threads, swapping the O-rings out, or just dousing them in silicone oil.

CaptainSwoop · June 30, 2014

However you could save a bit of money and get an ACOG with built in iron sights instead that would be just as effective

Lol no. (My turn for the pedantry)

Those irons you get on top of ACOGs are not useable sights in the slightest, suggesting they can be used to the same degree of effectiveness as a Docter sight isn't that far removed from comparing a top of the line Schmidt and Bender... to not actually having any sights at all.

They're that useless.

The only reason I would look at those iron sights in a positive light, is if I was buying an ACOG with the intention of adding my own micro red dot of some description, either a Docter or an RMR, and I wanted to buy a sight with the mounting lugs to put the red dot bracket onto. Since generally, those irons can be removed.

But yeah, they never line up properly, and the sight radius is so short that even if they were lined up right, they'd still be useless anyway. They're also not adjustable.

Additionally, airsoft Spectres don't really have any eye relief differences over ACOGs, at least in terms of clone airsoft versions. But I would imagine the 1-4x variable zoom version would have much better eye relief with the 1x zoom setting, otherwise it just seems fairly useless - the biggest advantage of dot sights is that they don't have eye relief, so if you still had to get your head within an inch or two to use the 1x zoom feature... Well, what's the point?

Personally I'd still rather have the fixed 4x version with a Docter on top of it though, I've heard that the variable zoom versions aren't all that great, and I think that I would personally find flipping between the two settings on the variable version a bit of a pain, it'd be far easier to just switch to a different optic on top of the Spectre, since then you wouldn't have to take any hands off the gun.

Though I have no personal experience to back that up with, it might work great and what I've read about the variable zoom versions being worse might just be people being overly picky or something.

Your cheapest option (if you definitely want a zoom optic) would be to buy a standalone ACOG, without any kind of back up sights, illumination or any other funky stuff with it, perhaps with a fake non-functional fibre optic strip, (or indeed just buy the one Lozart linked, though that's moronically expensive for what it is) - which you can get for around the £60 mark - then you can use the zoom of the ACOG for longer range targeting, or if you can't see your shots. Then for all other circumstances, just look down the side of your barrel and walk shots on target.

Actually, if you just want the functionality of a scope and you don't really care what it looks like, you could get a sniper style air rifle scope for even less than that, which will probably have anything up to 9 or 10x variable zoom. They just don't look as funky as clone optics.

Airsoft_Mr B · June 29, 2014

£99 for that is exceptionally good, I don't what makes you think it's expensive. Most other clones with those features are £130 minimum and the real steel optics they're copying come in at around the £2k mark.

The fibre optic cable means that the ACOG reticle is illuminated by light shining on it, it's not a battery so it never runs out, but if you're in a dark place there's no illumination, so it's a bit useless really. Nice feature though, and realistic to boot.

4x optics aren't a lot of use in airsoft, I run an ACOG more or less identical to this and I find myself using the Docter sight on the top 99% of the time, I only use the ACOG if I think my shots are hitting but I'm not getting any feedback from the target, or if I'm unsure whether a log is a person's head or not. So it's good for more precise shooting at longer ranges, helps see your shots from a little further away, and it's good for scouting areas out with a slightly better view.

Zeroing optics is easy, fire a few shots, then look at the adjustment dials. If you shots are going to the right, turn the dial to the left, if your shots are going high, turn the dial down. Keep doing it until you're on target. Same applies to both the red dot and the ACOG.
I've actually zeroed both optics on mine to the same point, since I use the red dot for pretty much all targets at all ranges anyway, as I said.

My guess is that it's an ACM (all china made) clone, branded ones are more expensive. But with airsoft optics there's not a lot of difference really, in fact in a handful of instances I've had better experiences with unbranded clones, than branded ones.

The build quality will be the same as all the other equivalent optics on the market. They're generally the same product, just sold under different names from different places.

You won't be breaking it unless you fire into it from point blank range, or smash it with a hammer. I've had mine for over 2 years and it's taken direct hits, hard knocks and all sorts. Got a dent in the top of the red dot's frame and that's about all you can see to tell it's been abused.

ProAirsoftSupplies are a very respectable shop, I know their tech and he's a good guy. No worries with buying from them.

Green fibre just means the ACOG will light up green instead of red. No difference to anything else at all. Not sure why the price is higher.

June 25, 2014

I think it would be, based on what happened to me.

I was up for the maintenance aspect as well, but it's not really like maintaining an air gun or a real gun, you're as much looking for wear on the parts are you are ensuring that they work properly. You really need to understand how every aspect of the gun works, otherwise you won't know what to fix when parts fail, and parts will fail.

team flex · June 25, 2014

It's TAN!

June 25, 2014

1.2 joules equates to roughly 360fps at the muzzle on a .2g bb.

For a blowback pistol using green, to chrono that high is pretty unusual, I'm almost inclined to suggest trying another chrono. If your mate has a cheap one it could be bugged out.

Did you fire multiple shots to get an average of 360/1.2J, or just the once? 'Cos if it was just a one off reading there's a chance it could just be wrong, or it might've chrono'd gas particles instead of the actual shot or something.

I'd say to try and re-chrono it before thinking of doing anything else.

There are a few sites that would allow 360fps though, my regular site have a hard limit of 368fps for full auto capable weapons and sidearms, anything higher than that up to a limit of 500fps has to be locked to semi auto or be bolt action, and comes with a minimum engagement range of 20m.

June 24, 2014

Do they take spring changes well though? People always say to just leave TMs alone, which has always been something that put me off buying one.

Since they're all built to sub 300fps tolerances, I've always had it in my head that upping the power to something more standard would see the trigger response and rof drop below and acceptable level, and I can't be arsed to upgrade the motor and the gears on a gun that already cost around £500.

Lozart · June 24, 2014

Quiet you.

June 24, 2014

Would be better if they made the front screw off somehow, the amount of disassembly required to get to the back of the gearbox is far from "quick".

June 24, 2014

I didn't realise there were any quick change spring V2 gearboxes. Surely you'd have to take the gearbox out anyway because the stock tube would be in the way?

Tango123 · June 23, 2014

I ended up getting into airsoft through the exact avenue you're travelling along right now.

I had air pistols and rifles, I saw a YouTube video showing a WE gas M4 and I just had to have it, so I researched their availability in the UK, discovered airsoft as a means to get one, then went to play 3 games purely so I could buy one in the proper colours.

Once I eventually got my UKARA registration sorted out and bought it, I realised that it was a terrible mistake. I didn't know what I was doing with it and the performance ended up getting gradually worse and worse until I'd spent over £1000 on it and given up on trying to make it work because I was inexperienced. Ended up trading it for an AEG M4 worth a fraction what I paid for the gas rifle.

So I effectively flushed about £750 down the bog.

Based on my experience, I cannot stress this enough - do not buy a gas gun as your window into airsofting, or even for plinking.

If you buy one, it's more the feel of firing it, and the manipulation of the weapon controls that you buy one for. An AEG will outshoot a gas gun 100% of the time in pretty much every regard except perhaps range, and if you're used to air rifles, airsoft guns will seem like the most inaccurate thing imaginable in comparison.

For plinking air guns are much better, airsoft guns are for shooting at people, air guns are for target shooting.

ronin677 · June 23, 2014

That's genius, might look into doing it with my Mk7

June 23, 2014

Banned as in, won't deal with you anymore.

As well as restricting your access to the shop's Facebook page. I can only share their posts for example, not like or comment on them.

Airsoft_Mr B · June 23, 2014

Little bit of a controversial topic...

But today, Milspec Solutions actually told Phil Bucknal (who either still is, or until recently, was UKAPU's chairman), to "fuck off" over the phone, in the middle of sale negotiations, because he was calling on a mobile from his car and the signal was sketchy.

Literally throwing a sale away and then permanently banning someone for having poor mobile reception is utterly ridiculous.

I myself was banned from Milspec a few months ago because I was sent a pistol grip for my L85 and I didn't return it when I didn't need it... Bearing in mind, I told Milspec I didn't need it before he even sent it and that was the last contact I had with him right up to me PMing him to ask why I'd been banned on Facebook.

So considering I'd said I didn't need the grip before it was even sent, but it got sent anyway, I assumed it must've been a good will gesture because I'm always hearing about how good Milspec's customer service is.
But apparently I'd been emailed 4 times asking for it back, he had me on Facebook, he had my mobile number, but he just kept emailing me even though he never got a response...

Either he never emailed me at all and just wanted to make a point about something, or my email account was sending all the messages to spam for some reason.

Despite myself being banned, I continued recommending Milspec whenever I was asked about my L85, because I thought my banning might've just been an overreaction after a long day or something, but after hearing about what happened to Phil this morning? Milspec can jog on.

Either way, when I tried to explain my side of the story I was deleted and told I was being removed "on principle".

Well, by my own principle, based on my and Phil's experiences, I will not be recommending Milspec Solutions to anyone from this point on.

If you want a gas gun specialist retailer, I would recommend Tactical Quartermaster instead.

It makes me wonder though, has anyone else had bad experiences with Milspec? Because aside from myself and Phil, everyone seems to rave about them like they can do no wrong.

Airsoft_Mr B · June 22, 2014

The lower is a bit more of a pain to get to pieces, the hammer mech comes out of the back in a block though, there's a pin through the grip around where the joint of your thumb sits that you need to punch out, and there's a screw at the back right of the frame once the slide's been removed.

Once they're out the hammer mech comes out in one piece, but there's an actuator and a spring that you'll need to make sure you don't lose, they're both on the left side.

You'll have to unhook the trigger arm too, but that's not too hard.

After that there's the trigger to remove, along with the slide lock lever which has the most fiddly spring in the entire gun attached to it, as well as the mag release and the take down lever section. Though tbh, I'm not sure you'd actually need to totally remove everything for hydro dipping, would you? Surely it's only applied to the outside of the frame?

I would've honestly expected you to just be able to send them the frame without actually bothering to remove anything from it, but I might well be wrong, I'm not really that sure how hydro dipping is actually done.

There's a 4 part strip down guide on YouTube by LaZouche Customshop, it's for the TM one but they strip down in the exact same way, I followed that guide to learn to strip mine down to individual components. They're actually really simple once you know what you're doing.

Airsoft_Mr B · June 20, 2014

1) Will a Madbull 6.03 TBB do much to improve accuracy? I know it shouldn't be an essential upgrade, but basically is it worth £20 (or is it fine using the stock barrel?)

No. Waste of time and money buying barrel and hop parts for the WE Glocks. Mine is stock and it's good for 40m at least with .25s, I can and do run it as a primary, the only thing making it harder to use at longer range is the fact that it's a pistol so it's harder to hold steady without a stock to brace it against anything.

2) I'm assuming that the magazine baseplate is the correct scale? Because I would like to know if they are compatible with this:

http://www.zahal.org/products/tactical-modular-glock-mag-extension?path_parent=218383

and if the WE mags could take these: http://gunfire.pl/product-eng-1152194097-Magazine-grip-for-TM-Glock-17.html

They can definitely take the TM base plates, but I'm not so sure about the first ones. Only the KWA/KSC Glocks are perfectly 1:1 with the real steel, the Marui and WE are slightly wider, so it's likely that any real steel parts won't fit.

3) Finally, I'd like to get the frame hydro dipped, probably by the guys at Camo Lab. I rather wouldn't remove all the parts from the frame as I bet all the important internal parts will be difficult to re-install. What are your thoughts, should it be easy enough? I wouldn't mind paying the additional charge for dis-assembly twice so they can do this for me. Looking at £50-ish for the dip itself / work / postage then I guess.

Would I need to use a courier for shipping?

It's a doddle getting all the internals out of the slide, field strip it to get the barrel, inner barrel, recoil guide rod & spring out, then there's a single screw holding the rear sight on, which also slots through the entire blowback mech. Undo the screw and the sights come off, and the mech just drops out in a block. Couldn't be easier.

Front sight also removes with a single screw if you want to take that off too.

You can post it however you want, might even go as a medium sized parcel with Royal Mail if you just whack it in a jiffy bag.

Some additional pointers;

Get the WE mags, I actually think they're better than the TM ones, they have silent fill valves whereas the TM ones don't, from what I've been told. My mags are all WE and I've not had a single issue with any of them in the 18 or so months since I got it. Additionally, due to the metal construction it takes a bit more gas to get the mech cycling right and the WE mags have slightly higher flow valves than the TM ones, the gun actually feels pretty weak and puny using TM mags.

The gas routers are also slightly different; TM mags still fit and work, but the WE mags perform better on all accounts.

Holster ought to be good since it's for a Glock 21 so that makes up for the WE's wider frame.

Only thing else I can think to say is that they're actually pretty hard wearing, the only visible wear on any internal parts on mine is on the hammer sear, and the part that's worn is the part that the trigger arm pushes against to release the hammer, so the amount of wear on that particular area is largely irrelevant; as long as when you pull the trigger, the hammer falls, it's not worn enough to be an issue, so you ought to get at least 18 months out of the internals because I've hardly gone easy on mine.

Two of my mates have the G18 and both have admitted that auto rarely gets used in games, it's more a party piece for mag dumping at the end of the day, I'd just get the G17 personally, the G18 has an additional sear in the hammer mech which to me just seems like an additional thing that could wear out or break. For all the use you're going to get out of full auto I think it makes more sense to just conserve the life of the parts by sticking to semi, and if you're going to do that you might as well just buy one without auto in the first place.

June 19, 2014

I ended up building up my British Army loadout for two reasons.

1) I just don't think L85s look as good unless they're coupled with the proper kit.
2) Since I already had the gun, I thought that limiting myself to one avenue of gear - Just British stuff, instead of everything I like the look of - it might save me some pennies because I wouldn't just impulse buy everything I saw.

Turns out I spent just as much, just instead of it being limited by only buying British stuff, I just ended up researching British stuff a lot more and having just as much stuff to pick at... =/

Fail strategy.

What I would advise doing, is making a note of things that could help you out whilst you're playing, and then buying something to fulfil that requirement.

For example, if you're hiding in a bush and you get spotted, you might want some camo to make you harder to see, or if you run out of ammo you might want to buy a pouch to carry a spare mag or two.

You might buy some pyro and realise you have nowhere to actually put it where you can quickly and easily get it, so look for pouches to hold it.

Once you've bought a molle rig of some description and outfitted it with pouches entirely based on what you feel you need, it'll start looking like a pretty legit loadout anyway.

Doesn't have to cost you the world, and it doesn't have to all be bought over night. Just buy what you think will help, work out where best to mount it to yourself, and add to it and move it all around as required.

Practicality comes first if you want to have fun. Trying to tailor your look after a special forces unit will probably see you carrying too much stuff and being too overburdened to really get about effectively or quickly because remember who you're playing against - guys wearing nothing but combats and a t-shirt, with a polymer gun, no rig, and a pair of high caps.

June 18, 2014

A mate of mine once knife killed me 4 times in one skirmish because he is very very sneaky. On one occasion I felt the knife point into back, heard him safe knife kill, turned around and he wasn't there! Stealth level 1000

Also, just wanted to say, I laughed so hard at this xD

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Posts posted by Airsoft-Ed