Adolf Hamster

I think they pulled the doc martens strat of cheaping out and living on their reputation. So an old pair will be great, not so much a new pair. Lowas were what i moved to after my magnums went and i'd say are superior in all respects.

The downside of the tightbores is needing more frequent cleaning, which is fine for a lower round count pew like a pistol

"there are two things i hate in this world. People who are intolerant of other peoples cultures and beliefs. And the dutch"

The germans in ww2 had the Eihandgranate translating as "egg hand grenade" and was more common than the steilhandgranate we all know and love. I have it in my head that the original french term for a grenade was the same as apple, but slap a big citation needed on that.

Active brake on its own is supposed to prevent overspin, which could be thought of like a natural pre-cock, but can often have the unintended effect of stopping the box too soon giving trigger lockups as the cutoff timing does take into account a little bit of overspin. Typically i tend to reccommend using ab and precocking together or not at all, although it could be argued a precock setting without ab probably wont harm anything. Ofc none of that has anything to do with the energy output, but i see you've got to the bottom of that mystery.

Used to run cyma mids in my old jg aksu all the time.

you are correct the stereotypical symptom is higher energy on semi, with pme skipping teeth and resulting in the piston not being drawn back fully giving a lower energy in auto after the motor has spooled up. the other way around is a tad more mysterious, and especially that it can be cured with a different precock setting. the only thing i can think is that at your initial 2 steps of precocking, the tappet plate hasn't been fully released, meaning the order of operations is tappet plate releases then fire, with the snappy brushless able to wind the piston back and release before the tappet has had time to get fully into battery. with more precocking it's stopping after the tappet release meaning it's in battery and all the motor is doing is winding the piston back a little before it sends. but if that were the case, you'd expect the lower fps to also occurr in auto, as i doubt the motor from a standing start is going to be faster from tappet release to piston release than the same motor already wound up to full chat. it's worth noting that precock is just controlling the amount of overspin, and in terms of air volume a fully precocked piston has more time to fill itself with air than it will under full auto conditions, so you'd also expect it to give more energy than auto if the cylinder refill time was a factor.

I still dont understand how there isnt an airsoft g11. Its gotta be one of the easiest guns for them to make given your basically just slapping p90 internals into a g11 shaped box.

Also ammo quality, good ammo will be smoother and not bind up as bad. Also generally the higher the capacity in a midcap the fussier it'll be with a long spring having been squeezed such a long distance.

think the way i'd put it is that in macks, the seller has to come in here and actively engage the criticism. sometimes they come in and engage respectfully, even meshing with the banter, and everyone has a good time. sometimes they come in and try to fight, and get ripped on, and everyone but them has a good time. but mostly they just ignore the thread entirely. commenting on the sales post gives them nowhere to run, and as much as i agree that it makes the criticism more directly accessible for a buyer at risk of being ripped off, at the end of the day if a buyer does any kind of due diligence they'll either find the macks post or simply other information (eg ads, even completed ones, with different prices), and is it really our responsibility to guard people who won't take any steps to guard themselves?

This, throwing a mars bar in and shouting frag out only to then blast folk as they scramble is a legit tactic. But mucking with other peoples nades without their permission is not on.

So to spin up the heavies you're typically looking first at the bucking. Fortunately these days it's relatively simple insofar as a maple leaf macaron+omega nub (you need the omega nub unless you've got a hop unit with a rounded block eg the maxx units) is going to do good work in most situations. Although it must be noted the occasional pew doesnt like the slightly longer feedlips. The whole "degree" thing is a rating on the softness of the rubber, if you think hard/soft car tyres it's basically the same premise. Softer rubbers will grip more and spin up heavy rounds easier, but will wear down more quickly and softer feedlips can deform causing an air leak on higher energy pews. Typically the tan is a good all rounder for uk limits/temperatures. That, with good quality heavy ammo and a clean barrel will often get you most of the way there. The thing that can mess it up is poor air seal, you can most easily test this by firing some shots through a chrono and seeing what the variation is between shots, or just when shooting if you notice vertical dispersion. This becomes a much more complex thing to address and often requires popping open the gearbox, which isnt advisable until you have a backup pew handy.

having seen tag impacts go off, i am not keen to be, nor see, them hitting a human target. timed ones, maybe there's an argument, but exploding (potentially) on your face? that's a hard nope.

Hmm, looking at the ab++ manual you're right they do state ab settings are irrelevant whilst precocking is enabled. Which would imply they're either using an amount, or having none and you just factor in the overrun when dialling it in (ie total precock=intentional overrun+natural overrun). It getting worse with precocking enabled sounds like its naturally double spinning, in which case active brake would be the solution. They mention they have different strengths, which would ordinarily lead to the suggestion that dialling it up would be the next step. The big caveat is i dont know if the warhead would react in the normal way and just do its own thing. Cutoff tweaks might help, the perun is flying blind all it knows is are the contacts open or closed, so if the col is mechanically engaging earlier/later that will change the timing. I remember the old ascu2 i had fun with the col not lifting enough to actually trigger the switch on the mosfet ended up going to the local brick and mortar and rummaging through their box of levers till i found one that worked.

that really does sound like the typical precocking tuning adjustment. mosfets like the ab++/warfet run on timers, so essentially they wait for the cutoff lever to trip then add X milliseconds more runtime to the motor (which is what you set when you tune them). if the delay is slightly too long, what can happen is the cycle settles in a different position each shot until that goldilocks position where it runs enough to fire twice. if your box has a window for viewing the piston you can test if this is happening by seeing how far back the piston stops each time, the behavior i'm describing it'll settle slightly further back with each shot until the double fire when it settles further forward and the process repeats. having ab off with precocking can make things a bit more chaotic as motor overrun will happen naturally and can vary from just about everything you can think of (shimming tightness, motor, spring, piston tightness, hell even the grease viscousity or how warm the box is), indeed having too little overrun (typically active braking without precocking) is what give trigger lockups when the system stops too quickly. typically i'd advise ab and precocking together although if you're being conservative with how much precocking is going on it's probably ok to not have ab. you don't usually want ab without precocking unless it's a speediboi build that suffers double fires without it. if you had the precocking really dialled in then i can absolutely see you going from perfection to just barely too long a delay just from a gear swap even if they're the same nominal ratio and shaving a tooth would absolutely do it. sniper delay/dmr mode is just a rate of fire limiter, its only effect is to stop you firing a second shot if you spam faster than it's been told to allow, so shouldn't be affecting this. that said, none of the above explains why it's happening with precocking turned off, but hopefully i've adequately explained why i'd want to be double/triple checking that it is definately off before testing for the behaviour. the other test is to change the amount of precocking, increasing it should make the doubles happen more frequently, reducing it should cure the issue.

It could be worth trying. Although you're gonna have X psi requirement to get a good cycle, which might put you over the limit so you'd need some method of dropping it back down. Shimming a standard rocket valve does the same thing as an npas, and might be more repeatable, or a shorter inner barrel can do the job too (dont worry if it's shorter than the outer)

You're asking on an airsoft dedicated forum how to circumvent the law. End of the day, you need to be 18 to buy an if (aka 2-tone) and 18+defence (eg ukara) to buy an rif (ie the "proper" gat). As an airsoft forum, as much as we agree that the law sucks, newslines such as "kids play with REAL looking GUNS and one loses an eye, parents are SHOCKED" aren't a good look for our hobby, and we're one civil servant with an axe to grind away from losing our toys at the best of times. Technically, a parent/guardian can "gift" you a pew from 14, but depending on your parents views, this probably isnt an option. The best path for you, is to look at renting a pew at a local site, if possible get a parent to join in, best case scenario they'll get hooked and be buying their own pews, that you can "borrow" come next game day. Worst case scenario, you'll have a real airsoft experience to decide if this game is for you, which is might not be, and that's also ok. We all know how you feel, many of us were right where you are wanting to play but being limited by one reason or another, it sucks, but there's no good way around it.

If its the type i've seen before, you can remove the linkage that hooks into the back of the box and run it without the "recoil" Then you can just run a standard piston etc and have a standard aeg with a slightly more fiddly removal of dust cover components.

"right" is something that is specific to each individual box, so we as outsiders have no way to say if that's too much or not enough. If it sounds smooth then it's good.

tis a laborious process, a lot of assembling, testing and dissassembling to make changes. it's why i'm not a fan of the m4 platform, lot of unnessecary steps to get to actual testing.

Some things i can think that you haven't specified. First is the hop setting, being too far off can give weird shenanigans with fps dropping off to the point the bb can almost be just rolling out the barrel. Likewise too far on you can hit a second "sweet spot" where the bb is being massively restricted but spun so much it flies anyway. I typically aim for visually ~1-1.5mm of protrusion into the barrel (flatter buckings like ml macaronss you want less than standard buckings) as a vague ballpark when actually setting it on a range isn't viable. Second is midcap syndrome, if you're trying on a fully stuffed mag or one with a larger capacity (ie bigger than ~140 rounds for a standard m4 midcap) then the first few shots can fail to feed well due to the pressure on the bb stack, this will typically cure itself as the mag clears. A good test is to try with a hicap. The third is that there might be a restriction somewhere, from memory on a ~250mm barrel i was running barely 20psi to get 1j, had to swap out to the low flow poppet so i could run it at ~80psi at 1j with the higher pressure helping it cycle. A kinked line or crap somewhere blocking a port. I'd be double checking to be sure the ptfe added to the igl isn't covering the end or had a peice blow into the system. Final thing is it'd be worth checking if you're running in closed or open bolt mode. i think it's dr is the one that controls how long it waits for the nozzle to push the round into the chamber before sending the main air blast. The manual tells you its something like 14ms without any restriction so you might wanna raise it above that (or just max it out) see if it does anything. Thats unlikely to be the culprit specifically for semi auto when in closed bolt mode as the round is starting already in the chamber.

Given he mentions the forend costing £100+ so it would stand to reason if he'd dropped quadruple that on the optic it'd be worth mentioning in the ad? The paint job as always is a marmite thing, regardless of how much it cost to get done for many buyers it may well be value subtracting as something they'd immediately want to remove.

Surely that aint gonna work for chinesium triggers? Steel triggers like e&l that would work, but those also tend to be the ones that actually play ball. One thing i did on my old jg was drill and tap a screw into the end of the trigger pin, which would hold it in place, and by extension hold the rest in place. Do that at your own peril though as it'll make a thin potmetal pin even thinner and more likely to snap.

Generally, i'll just reply with a "sorry mate, this sold ages ago you can tell by the "completed" banner" Typically that yeilds either no response or an "opps, thanks for telling me" Its a tricky one, on the one hand i can see how the whole "completed" thing might be missed by someone who doesnt take the time to understand how this forum works. On the other hand, its not entirely subtle how this forum works. My record is someone once paid me f&f for a scope thinking it was another listing, fortunately i spotted the amount error, queried then refunded him once we realised the error but it does make you think how easily i could have merely ghosted and kept the money. The moral of this anecdote is never pay f&f.....

Is the symptom a dead trigger after a few rounds of semi auto that can be cured by a burst of auto? That's a common v3 issue (well, most boxes have a similar thing but v3's are especially prone) caused by the cycle stopping at just the wrong point. If it's had an aftermarket motor installed, or has any active braking shenanigans via a mosfet that could be the cause as the box is stopping before the trigger has the chance to fully reset. Turning off active brake (if possible) will solve that issue. Its also possible given that looks to be a microswitch box that its something dodgy in the contacts, which might be the case if it's not got any mosfet and has been run a while (doubly so when lipo's enter the picture). This would manifest as the trigger feeling normal but it just not wanting to fire in both semi and auto unlike the above which is semi-specific and can be cured with auto. Mechanically, apart from what @strykerles mentioned about the trigger not being seated the only thing i can see in those pics is the trolley is raised with the black arm looking like it's going to miss the cyan microswitch button. That said, it looks like thats just how its sitting with the box apart and not how it'll sit once the other half of the case is installed. Nothing looks to be missing/broken, at least from what can be seen in those pics.