Adolf Hamster

that's the dead internet talking. forums remain a bastion of actual enthusiast dialogue, and whilst this place has a particular feel (read: if you're a kickingmustang alumni you may not feel so welcome) it remains a safe place to chat airsoft related topics without the usual internet plague of adverts and bad opinions.

that's a cure for the timing bug. essentially, there's a point in the cycle where the trigger will go kinda dead as the cutoff lever is still engaged. flicking to auto overrides this and lets it fire with the odds being when you flick back to semi it's unlikely to have stopped in the dead zone. this is why i reccommend against active braking mosfets if they aren't paired with precocking, as they can stop the box right in the danger zone. although that doesn't sound like what's going on here if the trigger is dead after a blast of auto.

Can the barrel extension be milled further forward so the hop/inner barrel can be slid forward to clear the nozzle on dissassembly?

I'd be ok with it, for no reason other than as far as i've ever seen there are only 2 types of comms you'll get in a skirmish: 1. People who forget they have radios and hardly ever talk 2. People that announce every single little thing they're doing like they're narrating a minecraft lets play And in both cases i suspect you wont get much information that can be used to your advantage. As for milsims, unless part of the sim is specifically targeted as "we're pretending we have military grade encrypted comms" i'd also see it as fair game.

Assuming we're dealing with the platinum box, then tbh the airseal should be pretty on-point ootb. A tan macaron+omega nub combo, your choice of nice stainless barrel (xt/zci/pdi), the right spring strength (ie not massively underpowered) and some good food will have it quite far up the diminishing returns curve without even opening the box. Hop unit is perfectly fine, imo unless you're dropping a combat union in there then it's not worth changing. The one peice cylinder looks superficially like it should be bad, but it isnt, i'm not sure i'd consider anything else an upgrade. The nozzle could be swapped for alu, but it has a sealing o ring and i've used stock e&l nozzles as upgrades for other pews. The piston head is a rare example of a mushroom style that actually seals, although i've typically swapped them for wide ports (if you do change to a conventional head then you'll want to shim it to bring the aoe back in line). Piston is a weak point, but intentionally so and you probably dont need to change it if you're not going to be speeding the box up. Anything else you'd consider short of selling your soul to the hpa devil is for the goal of snappyness/rof rather than range/accuracy. A mosfet is reccommended, at least a basic model (eg nanoasr) for contact protection (avoid active braking unless it has precocking).

My gut feeling is it'll be too tight to fit in the gas tube of the e&l, although it might go under the dust cover.

everyone kinda has their own standard. what i typically would have done was asked for ukara, then seen if the site code exists on the ukara site listing. if i'm feeling a little sus i at least see if it's in the same general region (eg a mainlander isn't giving me an ni site code). otherwise i just slap the number on the box and call it good. i've also had folk give me re-enactor id (afaik re-enactor id is only good for relevant pews, ie you can't sell an m4 to a ww2 re-enactor, although in my case that didn't apply), and once dispatched a pew via a local shop we both knew. in buying i have had folk either not ask or even accept my forum presence as a player, although ironically my forum presence would now be a tad deceiving as i'm not playing these days. end of the day the requirement is that you're satisfied the person your selling your gun-shaped-object to is going to use it for airsoft pewing or other permitted activity, and afaik there isn't any real definition/precedent as to how much effort needs to be put into verification.

I think they pulled the doc martens strat of cheaping out and living on their reputation. So an old pair will be great, not so much a new pair. Lowas were what i moved to after my magnums went and i'd say are superior in all respects.

The downside of the tightbores is needing more frequent cleaning, which is fine for a lower round count pew like a pistol

"there are two things i hate in this world. People who are intolerant of other peoples cultures and beliefs. And the dutch"

The germans in ww2 had the Eihandgranate translating as "egg hand grenade" and was more common than the steilhandgranate we all know and love. I have it in my head that the original french term for a grenade was the same as apple, but slap a big citation needed on that.

Active brake on its own is supposed to prevent overspin, which could be thought of like a natural pre-cock, but can often have the unintended effect of stopping the box too soon giving trigger lockups as the cutoff timing does take into account a little bit of overspin. Typically i tend to reccommend using ab and precocking together or not at all, although it could be argued a precock setting without ab probably wont harm anything. Ofc none of that has anything to do with the energy output, but i see you've got to the bottom of that mystery.

Used to run cyma mids in my old jg aksu all the time.

you are correct the stereotypical symptom is higher energy on semi, with pme skipping teeth and resulting in the piston not being drawn back fully giving a lower energy in auto after the motor has spooled up. the other way around is a tad more mysterious, and especially that it can be cured with a different precock setting. the only thing i can think is that at your initial 2 steps of precocking, the tappet plate hasn't been fully released, meaning the order of operations is tappet plate releases then fire, with the snappy brushless able to wind the piston back and release before the tappet has had time to get fully into battery. with more precocking it's stopping after the tappet release meaning it's in battery and all the motor is doing is winding the piston back a little before it sends. but if that were the case, you'd expect the lower fps to also occurr in auto, as i doubt the motor from a standing start is going to be faster from tappet release to piston release than the same motor already wound up to full chat. it's worth noting that precock is just controlling the amount of overspin, and in terms of air volume a fully precocked piston has more time to fill itself with air than it will under full auto conditions, so you'd also expect it to give more energy than auto if the cylinder refill time was a factor.

I still dont understand how there isnt an airsoft g11. Its gotta be one of the easiest guns for them to make given your basically just slapping p90 internals into a g11 shaped box.

Also ammo quality, good ammo will be smoother and not bind up as bad. Also generally the higher the capacity in a midcap the fussier it'll be with a long spring having been squeezed such a long distance.

think the way i'd put it is that in macks, the seller has to come in here and actively engage the criticism. sometimes they come in and engage respectfully, even meshing with the banter, and everyone has a good time. sometimes they come in and try to fight, and get ripped on, and everyone but them has a good time. but mostly they just ignore the thread entirely. commenting on the sales post gives them nowhere to run, and as much as i agree that it makes the criticism more directly accessible for a buyer at risk of being ripped off, at the end of the day if a buyer does any kind of due diligence they'll either find the macks post or simply other information (eg ads, even completed ones, with different prices), and is it really our responsibility to guard people who won't take any steps to guard themselves?

This, throwing a mars bar in and shouting frag out only to then blast folk as they scramble is a legit tactic. But mucking with other peoples nades without their permission is not on.

So to spin up the heavies you're typically looking first at the bucking. Fortunately these days it's relatively simple insofar as a maple leaf macaron+omega nub (you need the omega nub unless you've got a hop unit with a rounded block eg the maxx units) is going to do good work in most situations. Although it must be noted the occasional pew doesnt like the slightly longer feedlips. The whole "degree" thing is a rating on the softness of the rubber, if you think hard/soft car tyres it's basically the same premise. Softer rubbers will grip more and spin up heavy rounds easier, but will wear down more quickly and softer feedlips can deform causing an air leak on higher energy pews. Typically the tan is a good all rounder for uk limits/temperatures. That, with good quality heavy ammo and a clean barrel will often get you most of the way there. The thing that can mess it up is poor air seal, you can most easily test this by firing some shots through a chrono and seeing what the variation is between shots, or just when shooting if you notice vertical dispersion. This becomes a much more complex thing to address and often requires popping open the gearbox, which isnt advisable until you have a backup pew handy.

having seen tag impacts go off, i am not keen to be, nor see, them hitting a human target. timed ones, maybe there's an argument, but exploding (potentially) on your face? that's a hard nope.

Hmm, looking at the ab++ manual you're right they do state ab settings are irrelevant whilst precocking is enabled. Which would imply they're either using an amount, or having none and you just factor in the overrun when dialling it in (ie total precock=intentional overrun+natural overrun). It getting worse with precocking enabled sounds like its naturally double spinning, in which case active brake would be the solution. They mention they have different strengths, which would ordinarily lead to the suggestion that dialling it up would be the next step. The big caveat is i dont know if the warhead would react in the normal way and just do its own thing. Cutoff tweaks might help, the perun is flying blind all it knows is are the contacts open or closed, so if the col is mechanically engaging earlier/later that will change the timing. I remember the old ascu2 i had fun with the col not lifting enough to actually trigger the switch on the mosfet ended up going to the local brick and mortar and rummaging through their box of levers till i found one that worked.

that really does sound like the typical precocking tuning adjustment. mosfets like the ab++/warfet run on timers, so essentially they wait for the cutoff lever to trip then add X milliseconds more runtime to the motor (which is what you set when you tune them). if the delay is slightly too long, what can happen is the cycle settles in a different position each shot until that goldilocks position where it runs enough to fire twice. if your box has a window for viewing the piston you can test if this is happening by seeing how far back the piston stops each time, the behavior i'm describing it'll settle slightly further back with each shot until the double fire when it settles further forward and the process repeats. having ab off with precocking can make things a bit more chaotic as motor overrun will happen naturally and can vary from just about everything you can think of (shimming tightness, motor, spring, piston tightness, hell even the grease viscousity or how warm the box is), indeed having too little overrun (typically active braking without precocking) is what give trigger lockups when the system stops too quickly. typically i'd advise ab and precocking together although if you're being conservative with how much precocking is going on it's probably ok to not have ab. you don't usually want ab without precocking unless it's a speediboi build that suffers double fires without it. if you had the precocking really dialled in then i can absolutely see you going from perfection to just barely too long a delay just from a gear swap even if they're the same nominal ratio and shaving a tooth would absolutely do it. sniper delay/dmr mode is just a rate of fire limiter, its only effect is to stop you firing a second shot if you spam faster than it's been told to allow, so shouldn't be affecting this. that said, none of the above explains why it's happening with precocking turned off, but hopefully i've adequately explained why i'd want to be double/triple checking that it is definately off before testing for the behaviour. the other test is to change the amount of precocking, increasing it should make the doubles happen more frequently, reducing it should cure the issue.

It could be worth trying. Although you're gonna have X psi requirement to get a good cycle, which might put you over the limit so you'd need some method of dropping it back down. Shimming a standard rocket valve does the same thing as an npas, and might be more repeatable, or a shorter inner barrel can do the job too (dont worry if it's shorter than the outer)

You're asking on an airsoft dedicated forum how to circumvent the law. End of the day, you need to be 18 to buy an if (aka 2-tone) and 18+defence (eg ukara) to buy an rif (ie the "proper" gat). As an airsoft forum, as much as we agree that the law sucks, newslines such as "kids play with REAL looking GUNS and one loses an eye, parents are SHOCKED" aren't a good look for our hobby, and we're one civil servant with an axe to grind away from losing our toys at the best of times. Technically, a parent/guardian can "gift" you a pew from 14, but depending on your parents views, this probably isnt an option. The best path for you, is to look at renting a pew at a local site, if possible get a parent to join in, best case scenario they'll get hooked and be buying their own pews, that you can "borrow" come next game day. Worst case scenario, you'll have a real airsoft experience to decide if this game is for you, which is might not be, and that's also ok. We all know how you feel, many of us were right where you are wanting to play but being limited by one reason or another, it sucks, but there's no good way around it.

If its the type i've seen before, you can remove the linkage that hooks into the back of the box and run it without the "recoil" Then you can just run a standard piston etc and have a standard aeg with a slightly more fiddly removal of dust cover components.