Adolf Hamster

tbf most of the posts are jokes. just not very good ones.....

Tbf rocket propulsion is interesting topic, has to be given the run of the mill option involves strapping yourself to a giant can of flamey stuff (technical term), setting fire to one end and hoping for the best.....

Well now i know what a bussard ramjet is, thats my thing learned for the day.....

if my memory of nitro powered rc remains valid then i wouldn't be worried about a nitro powered minigun cos i can guarantee it'll stall only when the guy really needs it to be running..... plus even if it worked you'd hear him coming a mile off.....

that is assuming the 22k rounds are from the gearbox in its current state. could well be it's 21.5k rounds through a mostly stock gearbox before the last batch of parts were installed. or 21.5k rounds through a different gun before the aster was transplanted into this gun. skeptical hamster is skeptical.....

given the standards of youtube review channels in airsoft i genuinely wouldn't be surprised if they couldn't fill 50% of the watchtime of a mosfet review talking about how ambidextrous it is.....

you mean like having burst fire? because there's a few will do that. most will only be able to do 2 selections, given it's relatively rare to have an airsoft pew with a 3-position selector (that is 3 firing modes+safe). for internal mosfets it'd be redundant, as setting things like fire rate, precocking etc are tied to the properties of the gearbox/motor (ie you won't need to change them if you're not changing parts) for swappable mosfets i can see where you're coming from, the ability to quickly set between guns so you can have one mosfet that works for multiple guns, but then that means folk wouldn't need to buy multiple mosfets which ain't good for sales

that's airsoft for ya...... sadly a big barrier to innovation in this hobby is that anyone who tries does so in the knowledge that if their new thing is any good, it'll be cloned almost immediately- take a look at the odin m12 saga as a perfect example, some places you could nearly grab a clone before you could get your hands on the original.....

won't be too long to get ukara setup, so might as well wait. it's a pain i know but that's just how it is. sadly that'll be much harder than you'd think it should be. frankly we're lucky that internal gearbox parts tend to fit relatively well, but getting large scale components to play nice is a whole different ball game- take a look at the stuff fusion engine users go through to get a "standard v2 drop-in" to play nice with a given receiver set.

if i had a penny for every "broken misfeeding pile of junk" that shot just fine when you gave it a mag full of geoffs....

If you wanna spend money and learn to tech your first purchase should be a second pew, either a backup to be left as-is or a boneyard gun to learn by fixing up. Either way having a reliable backup gun to pull out when the latest teching experiment fails is infinitely preferable to the walk of shame. Trust me that shit gets old fast.

you'll want to be using the omega nub with the macaron, 5mm difference in barrel length won't be enough to have any voluming issues so if it's hidden then all good.

yeah it's just washing out on all my screens, maybe got me vibrancy set too high

Hmm, must have a better monitor than i do lol, they all look the same to me.....

does it? teeth look ok to me, although can't see them too well with the lighting?

grease on the piston, and the o ring should be loose on the piston, it seals against the back face of the groove when firing then moves forward allowing air through when being drawn back.

could be it's bedding itself in, the sector gear carving it's own idea of aoe, hard to tell from the pics with the way the lighting is. but mostly that doesn't look too bad (apart from being dry, idk if you cleaned it before taking those pics)

how do you mean bending down and locking up?

every action has an equal and opposite reaction, a black hole sucks time and matter out of the universe, a white hole returns it.

I've never seen one before but I'm guessing it's a white hole

the majority of standard guns the tooth count is the same and doesn't count the initial pickup tooth. when you see for example "15t" "14.5t" and "14t" pistons that's generally referring to wether or not the first regular tooth (ie not the pickup one) has been filed down a bit (aka a half tooth in a 14.5) or removed completely (14tooth as in the above image). this is to allow clearance for the initial pickup stage so the sector gear doesn't hit that tooth on its way round to start pulling the piston back.

there's a difference between doing things that are required for day to day life, like driving to work, cooking, and keeping yourself warm and spending money on frivolous luxuries that you can absolutely go without. we should be incredibly grateful that the cost of this war for us in the uk is being charged in pounds sterling and not blood. individually maybe not, the point is when done collectively all the little slices of fuck all add up to make something of substance. every Russian factory/shop that shuts down due to lack of sales is a crowd of disgruntled workers who won't be fans of how Putin's government has messed up their lives.

have to say i agree here. at the risk of opening a can of worms I'm not sure how comfortable I'd be continuing to buy stuff from Russia given current events. I might like their kit on a technical level, but I don't want any part in supporting the present actions of their government, no matter how indirectly.

hmm, that's not the type that i was thinking of (the one i had was obviously textured) might be worth checking the rear of the track anyway make sure it's clean and smooth. same goes for the cylinder/cylinder head combo, nothing wrong with that on paper (even matching brands which isn't even strictly necessary) you can split the compression check to see which component it is. piston+cylinder (use the palm of your hand over the end, you'll feel if air's leaking past your hand) once you know the pistons good just add the cylinder head and check, then if that's good add the nozzle. i'm thinking atm either piston o-ring or perhaps the nozzle-cylinder head (sometimes they can be off on size)

is the piston head the polymer body variant? because i had one of those (funnily enough in me g&g f2000...) and i found they'd got texturing on the plastic that was right round the whole piston including the o-ring track meaning awful sealing.