Adolf Hamster

i wouldn't be the one to know, haven't even seen a .2 in years

is there something to be read into the fact that i see this right as i decide to binge watch a bunch of 007 movies on prime?

fair enough, i can get the desire, i'm still wondering if retro-bodging a hop onto the We luger might have made it bearable to shoot..... one of those situations where running lighter ammo ironically ends up the order of the day tbf, there's a lot of satisfaction to be had from getting hits with a gun like that, i bought the ct25 as a joke thinking "if it shoots 20 feet i'll be happy" only for it to turn out to have stolen some of tm's fairy dust from somewhere.....

wow, there was me thinking the ~0.6j i got out of the ct25 was a bit on the light side

the tabs on them are very weak, even knowing they're weak it's still difficult to get the wiring etc fitted and grips installed without exerting enough force to break them. guess it's a design flaw that doesn't seem as big a deal on paper as it does in reality. gotta be more than that? brushless was well established in rc even before i started pewing.

it'd have to be a fine thread, take a sliver of a bolt and cut a slot in for turning. but that'd still need some more meat around the inner barrel to engage in, the wall thickness just isn't there otherwise.

yeah, not a lot of room to work with, only place i can think to put an adjustment would be on a sleeve between the circlip and current rubber seal, but there's not a lot of meat there to have both threads and room under for a nub of some description.

it's not strictly necessary for it to be placed at the chamber, the main reason most designs to it that way is to have a method of keeping the bb from rolling out the barrel, but that doesn't apply here. the thing i'd say with that diagram is i can see the rtv peeling off the inside and changing the hop dynamics/blocking the barrel pretty much immediately i'd go light with any centre dabbing lest it deform the barrel too, but drilling a ~3mm hole and stuffing a solid aeg nub into it or cut up section of o-ring is more where i'm thinking, nice tight fit so it stays in position, if anything it'll be wanting to be pushed out by the bb/gas pressure. any room to perhaps shorten the spring and add an external sleeve to the barrel for the purposes of mounting an adjustment?

i might be inclined to move more towards the WE ct25 style where the hop is a separate piece slightly further down the barrel. part A07 is the actual hop with A09 being the grub screw adjustment through the outer barrel. 2 main downsides are getting the slot cut in the barrel, really needs milling, and the seal quality isn't going to be great although tbf that's probably a worthy trade for actually having some hop. certainly with the WE as-is i didn't find it lacking in terms of being able to reliably yeet .32's at a meagre 0.6j, with the results being hilarious given the comically small nature of the gun. another possibility, maybe simpler, is to drill an undersized hole for a solid circular nub (same idea as the ct25 but minus the tab/slot which prevents the nub falling into the barrel) which you can press through with enough friction to prevent it falling out. edit: in both these case i'm guessing you'll have some ability to fit a tdc grub screw into the outer barrel for adjustability?

that'll be a tricky one then, best bet would be go back to a more conventional bucking unless you can find a more "standard" type arm that will fit that particular unit. i wouldn't suggest filing out that stock nub, it can be done but getting it to sit nice and square will be an absolute nightmare leading to shots curving off according to whatever way it's sitting. you could try a maple leaf, the patch won't be held in it's ideal shape but i've done that before and it's worked ok-ish. it could be you've got enough travel to get it to the jamming phase, remember you've gone from 2-3mm of "squishy" material to sub 1mm. you might find it'll accentuate other issues, eg accuracy if it's very sensitive to velocity. i've had guns in the past where even the round count in the magazine was enough to trigger it's sensitivities.

looks like you're getting 4 issues: 1. flat hopped buckings in general have very sensitive "sweet spots" 2. the hard plastic nub shape combined with barely any material on the bucking is making it even more sensitive 3. that's not really the right shape for a flat hop (see 'borg's pictures above), the additional length of the nub is important as it increases contact length for the bb 4. you may well be running out of travel on the hop arm, flat hop nubs are thicker to account for the loss of material in the bucking and mitigate issue 2 your 2 solutions to this are either to revert back to a more conventional bucking, or change out the hop unit so you can use proper nubs.

this was my first thought, albeit a guess rather than any certainty.

i mean that's better than what i thought which was pretty much that

that one of them ones where the hop unit only has 2 positions?

"worth it" is a very subjective term in this hobby. yes you absolutely could improve the performance of most stock pews, although how much money/time/effort you're willing to spend to get there and wether or not the improvement will be enough for you to justify it is entirely down to you. this is the primary reason to suggest, for the time being at least, leaving well enough alone. as the saying goes "if it ain't broke don't "fix" it". main reason is it's very easy especially when you're just starting out to mess up installing parts or re-assembling the pew which could end up with it performing worse than before (even if the parts are better on paper) or even breaking, which needless to say sucks when you have to go home early because your pew isn't working and trust me that shit gets real old real fast. the best way around is to wait until you have a decent backup. you can either buy another pew then work on your current one or buy something specifically with the aim of tinkering with it and keeping your current as the backup. that said, you can just jump straight in like i did but at least you've been warned what'll happen so my conscience is clear for range/accuracy generally i tend to recommend the following as a rough guide, starts off with the easy/cheap stuff going to the harder/more expensive stuff: -cleaning the barrel on a regular basis, really makes a difference and i'd suggest doing it at least once before each outing. if you start going for tighter bore barrels you might find you need to clean even mid-game day. -good quality heavy ammo, personally i'm a fan of geoffs. weight wise it's a balance between cost/performance, heavier ammo will be better but it costs more and you might be limited by what the hop can lift. commonly folks tend to find the 0.28-0.32g range a nice compromise between price/performance for outdoor work. -changing hop bucking/nub combo, tied into above something like the maple leaf macaron tan+omega nub combo is gonna help spin up heavier ammo and isn't too expensive/difficult to install. -air seal, this is the big step up in difficulty because it involves cracking open the gearbox, so you might want to leave this be for the moment. the best way to check how decent the current setup is performing is to look at the range of fps values it's spitting out (ie when you say "about 300fps" then quantify that as 300fps±Xfps), the smaller the range of values the better. for the ways of checking air seal when assembling a gearbox have a look here. -spring, the reason why this isn't earlier in the list is you need to be sure you're not losing energy to an air leak, you may well find that the power jumps up from doing the previous 2 steps because of fixing leaks. however once you're sure that you're getting everything the spring has to offer and you're a decent chunk under the limit then you could look at a stronger spring. however for the moment sounds like it's close enough to not worry too much just yet. -barrel, we're very far down the diminishing returns curve at this point, so there might not be massive gains to be had here, but this is the point where you might find something like a zci 6.02 stainless might be worth a look at. worth being clear if what you want is a higher rate of fire in auto, or a snappier response in semiauto, and what you're currently using battery wise. for auto rate of fire generally running higher voltage batteries, faster motors or higher speed gearsets are the go-to. for semi-auto response you can boost by doing the above, but a mosfet with precocking can really make a big improvement without increasing the actual auto rate of fire (which can be good for longevity)

depends on the setup, setting windage on an ak for example, or for the mini rmr style dots you need a screwdriver to adjust. not saying you shouldn't do it if you have the chance, just that it's not the end of the world if you don't have the time to get it properly dialed in. yes, this is a valid point, hence why i caveated the "repeatable" part

for lasers you do have a point, but i'd disagree that irons/dots/reticles need to be exactly on, as long as it's a repeatable point of reference (ie not moving relative to where the rounds are going) you can kentucky windage your way into getting good hits.

With a rifle yes, although i do know what you mean with regards to pistols- far enough away where you can't instinct fire but too close to be able to take your time aiming. My solution to those engagements is to respawn

yes that would absolutely do it. the bb in the barrel is a resistance that will slow the progress of the piston (as it works to push the bb out the barrel) so entirely normal for it to be different when there's nothing obstructing the barrel. it's why i tend not to dry-fire aeg's too much. likewise the spring around the barrel pushing the hop unit back is a definite candidate for causing a big air leak if the hop unit is sitting forward of where it should. of the precocking options out there there's the gate warfet and perun ab++ wire in the same as a conventional mosfet (ie using the original trigger contacts/cutoff lever etc), although both will require some soldering.

i'm getting reverse deja-vu, or maybe regular deja vu, swear i saw this thread a while back and replied to it?

piston slap is relatively normal depending on the particulars of the piston/cylinder head etc. however it might possibly be a sign of an air leak (lack of resistance- faster piston louder slap), very hard to say without actually hearing it in the flesh although you can test on a chrono. twanging is a common enough problem, one way to solve it is the use of a mosfet with precocking enabled, which has other benefits as well folks have also tried things like using a longer spring (of the same rating, so it's under more preload)

i used to think very much that way, until a couple of occasions i chose/was forced into running irons only and found myself doing surprisingly well. even if the irons are off you still have a reasonably repeatable reference point for where your shots are going, which is close enough for the ranges we play at.

aoe wouldn't really do that, it'd be more on the rearmost pickup tooth. i'd be wary of videos on the topic, aoe is one of those subjects that you see a lot of people blanket suggesting large adjustments when the reality is the vast majority of pews don't need anything so drastic.

I guess maybe it might be an idea if there's enough traffic, like an owners thread hits X number of pages then give it a mini forum.

Premature engagement Basically the piston isn't fully forwards when the sector gear tries to pick it up, teeth are badly aligned and something ends up breaking. Most common cause is when folk are building a gun thats running too fast for its power, but as @Skara says can also occurr when something like a bb jam is restricting forward motion of the piston. its one of the arguments for plastic tooth pistons, the teeth are an intentional point of failure where a metal rack might push the failure onto the gears.