Adolf Hamster

in your most recent post you seemed pretty confident it was one specific person, so not hard to point out? i know the feeling, but the message you're giving the site currently is "don't worry about mr airsniper complaining about certain players, he'll grumble and moan on the internet and be back with a fresh set of green fee's next week" yes it does, which is why the unfortunate truth is that whilst some venues might be able to maintain a better average, even an otherwise good site can be ruined by a couple of cunts picking that place on that weekend to show up and ruin everyone else's fun. unfortunately, the human race's infinite ability to generate arseholes means this is a problem that airsoft will never be able to rid itself of. end of the day this is a hobby played for fun, to enjoy ourselves, and if it's not possible to maintain enough good times to overrule the bad then why keep doing it? why expend the time, money and effort to keep doing something that's just making you angry and frustrated?

If the players at the site you play at are breaking rules, then your first port of call is to report them to the marshalling staff. If the staff cant/wont do anything about it then vote with your wallet, show them that their failure directly results in loss of customers and revenue. Go somewhere else. If none of the sites you can travel to are able to provide a decent game then maybe it's time to consider other hobbies.

hmm, that's an interesting one, i can see it not dropping by much, but it should definately be dropping a tad. however if it hasn't then no reason not to keep it that way. lower capacity/current rating? that'll help, although wether or not it'll help enough is hard to say.

it's more how far the piston retracts during the shot before it slips off the sector gear, which isn't affected by precocking. that's definately pointing towards it being an over-currrent or similar system, lowering the precocking might help it enough, as will a weaker spring (if you're happy to take the energy drop that'd give). 11.1v won't be helping either, more current through the motor (and by extension the mosfet). other option is if your situation allows try using bursts of auto as opposed to semi-spamming, less of a stop-start loading will be less load on the motor.

hmm, it doesn't look like it's running and obvious levers that interact with a col (like the old school ascu's), and "cycle detection" generally inferrs something watching the sector teeth rather than relying on the cam. it might put notion to the idea of it being an over-current situation if the battery is meaty enough to feed what the motor's asking for. it really depends on the specific build and your preference. to me your picture is what i'd call "adequate", but then my hpa days kinda made me a tad obsessive about minimal lock time. mechanically, there's not really an issue with any level of precocking as long as you de-stress the spring before putting it in storage (afaik perun mosfets have a function for doing this), you'd want a build worth its salt to be able to start from any point in the cycle. electrically, the more precocking, the more load on the motor on startup, the more current it'll draw and if the mosfet doesn't like it then it'll either cutout (if it has overcurrent protection) or in the extreme go pop. i'm wondering about those compression rings, do they clear the piston ok? it might be worth looking at running a stronger spring without the rings to see if that helps, might be if the piston clips the rings it locks up (once had a box do that on the spring, when the spring was compressed it expanded just enough to bind up inside the piston and lock it to the rear)

I'm assuming the ssr is one of the gate optical mosfets? Typically a "lock up" is a function of the cutoff lever, so a gun with an optical cycle detection can't lock up the same way you'd get on a mechanical trigger unit. There can be a correlation with precocking, the stronger the spring/higher the precocking setting the more starting load the motor will be under, that'll also get augmented by high speed gearing. Motor might not fully stall but might draw enough current to trip the mosfet's current protection.

i can see breaking tappet plates if they're being engaged at full speed by a motor that's not been braked by a mainspring, but can't see the closing side having issues. if anything the reverse, as it gives the tappet plate the most time to return to battery after release before the mainspring is unleashed. but as you say weird things happening is inevitable, stuff that should shoot fine is all over the place and stuff that's nothing to write home about can punch well above its weight.

hmm, as i explained not sure how it'd get timing issues from a full release side (as it's basically the stock release time) but tbh unless you're going full brrt then i doubt it's gonna be that sensitive. whichever teeth you're removing though, if it's fine on a 300mm, then it'll not hurt a 200.

The main issue with short stroking is voluming, if you've got the gun volumed correctly then as long as the piston is clearing the front of the port then you're not gonna mess up the voluming from short stroking. If you're happy with that level on a longer barrel then you aint gonna have issues with shorter. As for pickup/release, i've always tend to go predominantly from pickup. The following paragraph is me trying (and probably failing) to explain my thinking: When its being released the tappet plate is under spring tension and takes time to close, and its not ideal for accuracy to be releasing the piston before then. If you only take from the pickup side then the tappet plate will be retracting earlier (relative to the piston) but releasing at the same time (as an un-modified sector) whereas if you take from the release side then the tappet plate will be closing later relative to the piston (ie less time between tappet closing and piston closing) and could mean it doesnt have time to close fully before the air starts coming. Needless to say for a snappier build this isn't ideal. Ofc main issue with taking from just the pickup is the sector might pick up the tappet before the piston, meaning there's no braking effect from the piston to slow the sector a tad before it engages the tappet. Although with a decently pokey motor odds are it wont be slowing that much on pickup anyway.

the only way i can think to get a pseudo semi auto in a fa gun would be to configure it to burst fire with a correctly timed pulse. there's no cutoff, so as far as the mosfet's concerned it's always in auto but when set to burst it'll cutout after the time you've set it to. downside is there's going to be nothing keeping phase with the box, so you might find unless dialled in perfectly (which may well be practically impossible) then you might get the odd double tap or failure to completely cycle.

Remember kids, fps doesnt matter and tm's will outrange anything on the field only if you dont mess with the internals. Except the vsr, apparently..... Meanwhile there's nothing special about tm's range, it's not pixie dust it's just matched parts manufactured to work well together. Theres also no secret to why they fall over when you start messing with them for the same reason any pew falls flat on its face if the teching approach is just shove in shiny parts and expect it to work better.

I think the pressure differences are a mix of propane/butane, the ratio determining the pressure, although i dont have any factual evidence to validate that theory. Do agree on the pressure, even if just at a standard temperature. I have had the odd thought experiment about what other gases might be good candidates, obv propane/butane are easily sourced being so commonly used in various industrial applications but there must surely be something with a lower boiling point that could handle the cold without going to the levels of co2.

Usually that pin should be under load when the gearbox is in position. Both the rear bolt for the stock tube, and the screws in the grip will pull the gearbox back against the pin you have pictured and the rear body pin. It might be the grip isn't giving the proper tension?

the typical trigger pull bodge on a v2 box is to tap a hole in the gearbox casing behind the trigger and put a grub screw in. essentially lets you adjust the trigger as if it's being pre-pulled. however there are 2 downsides; -first is the safety, which you can either be patient and file down, or be impatient and remove. personally i don't see much problem given making an airsoft pew "safe" involves pulling the mag and clearing the chamber, and if you're in-game you're gonna be on fire anyway. -second is the trigger mech, the above method works really well when there's an internal mosfet or contact that means you can adjust the trigger to literal hair-width levels of pull, but with a mechanical trigger unit you're only gonna be able to go so far back before the trolley won't reset properly.

tbf, fire selectors have their place. once got asked at chrono if i could fire my gun in semi-auto. ordinarily this wouldn't be funny but the gun i was chrono'ing was an mg42.....

Not all heroes wear capes.....

when shooting on semi auto, the motor spools up, completes a cycle, the cutoff lever trips and the motor spools down. as the time when the motor stops is controlled by a mechanically timed cam from the sector gear, it usually stops in a consistent place every shot, depending on friction etc in the box. when firing in full auto, the cam is disengaged so the timing of when the motor stops running is dictated entirely by whenever you decide to release the trigger, which could be at any point in the cycle hence the nozzle stopping in seemingly random positions. for a gun in good health, this is just a normal part of how they work. depending on the state of the motor and gear train you can sometimes get instances where a gun might fire twice in semi auto (usually a fast motor that's not too strong at slowing down) as it's got enough momentum after the cutoff lever trips to freewheel round a whole second shot. likewise you can get the inverse of a motor that's not quite strong enough to do a standing start when the spring is compressed, which means if you get unlucky with the timing after a burst of auto, it'll stall when you try to fire the next shot. this can be controlled by some mosfets, the term "active brake" means a mosfet that uses electronic braking on the motor when it's disengaged, think of how a cordless drill can stop almost instantly from full speed. can be useful for curing double taps but more often than not it'll cause the opposite issue, stopping the motor so quickly the cutoff doesn't reset properly making the gun lock-up on semi. the term "precocking" applies to mosfets that intentionally run the motor a little longer than the normal cutoff time, by dialling this in you can have the gearbox stop with the spring very nearly about to release, with a motor strong enough to start in that state it means you can have a very quick response time (ie time between pulling the trigger and the gun going pew) without having to speed up the gun in auto (which can cause problems). if you take the same idea of a precocking timer and make it longer that's how you get burst fire. some mosfets can even do "cycle detection", which basically means they don't bother using a cutoff at all and instead use (usually optical) sensors to keep track of where the sector gear is and control it's position. they're expensive but it means you can control where the gun stops wether you're firing in semi, burst or auto meaning it always stops in the same place.

for a support gun there's not really much call for anything more than your basic contact-saving mosfet. motor wise as mentioned above brushless would be an option for more longevity, certainly make servicing a bit cleaner what with not spewing carbon everywhere. rof wise there's arguments that speed chasing on an lmg is counter productive, and will in any case be likely more limited by the magazine than the gearbox. as with any gun it'll benefit from a good consistent air seal, but given the higher ammo consumption of support guns lot of folks won't be running the heavies for cost reasons which would put a ceiling on how far it's worth chasing perfect accuracy.

might as well not be shipping then

they can be qc issues like the recievers being a little off-square. usually not an issue. they can be a bit of a bear to work on at the best of times but once you have the knack it's not too bad (tbh maybe it's just me but i tend to find ak's are easier to work on than m4's once you know the process). others can correct me on this, but afaik gunfire quit shipping to the uk thanks to brexit. cyma's will be cheap but effective parts, they're common choices of rental gun with a solid track record of reliability. the e&l's (the platinums at least) are a bit nicer especially for air seal but realistically they're both gonna be fine to pew with ootb and they're both gonna have headroom to tinker with should you feel so inclined. the way i'd put it is for general skirmishing the cyma is all the pew you'll need, with the e&l being the option for those who want to spend more for shiny things. you might consider if you're not fully locked into the ak platform that money saved on the cyma will be money for either upgrades or for expanding the collection with something else.

If you value first round hits?

Sorry to hear its been tough, and certainly when it comes to sales a little bit of patience on both sides goes a long way. But given the circumstances it sounds like you've got enough on your plate that dealing with the expectations of buyers is too much. Perhaps stepping back and just pulling any sales ads is the way forward. I've been out of the hobby for pretty much a year now and i still havent got around to flogging the last bits of kit because as you put it, life outside of airsoft is taking enough of my energy right now. Unless you really need to sell gear to balance the books then there's no harm in letting it sit a while.

Welcome to airsoft *ahem* "qc" It's the reason for the existence of aftermarket hop units although sadly a lot of those can be as bad or even worse than stock units.

It can be very subtle, takes just a fraction of a mm to do it but this sounds like textbook clanging on the way out. If its well aligned and not clipping it wont unduly affect accuracy.

ahh, burst fire, that does make a difference. more rof will help with snappy response, and times were it was the main way to do it, but nowadays with the electronical sorcery that is precocking mosfets and brushless motors you can get that snappy responsive trigger without needing to go full brrt with all the issues therein.