Adolf Hamster

^ yep thats the one, musta swapped an 8 tooth for a 10 then, didnt bother counting em. Box got a lot more lively with that and a properly rated spring. Quick and cheap are literally the only positive things about it, totally fucks with your consistency and means you're swinging a strong ass spring for no benefit (at least with short stroking the gun gets snappier) It'll make the piston slap hard too, the g&g's piston head was gone because of it. As far as i'm concerned its a way of ruining the gun because of lazyness. Edit: for clarity i aint talking about porting, theres a good and valid reason for that, i'm talking bout this shit:

i was meaning the teeth that are engaging with the idler gear, the bevel faces looked the same.

just goes to show, my experience with jg boxes is with all the original parts they run smooth as anything no matter what you do to them. maybe they wear in? all the ones i've worked on have been pretty old. there can also be differences in gearing even within manufacturers, was working on a g&g recently that sounded like absolute crap, until i changed the bevel from the g&g bevel to a g&g bevel....... tbf, the original bevel looked to have fewer teeth than the replacement, maybe gear reduction for a hotter spring (gun had been "downgraded" by drilling a hole in the cylinder), but with the correct spring and higher tooth bevel she ran pretty damn nice.

that's a new one, pretty sure it's a defect as i can't think of any reason why that would be intentional, it's gonna be letting all the air past the bb sitting in the chamber so no wonder the consistency is trash. i'm with skara on this, a zci6.02 is a very good bang for buck option should sort that out a treat, while you're in there you could think about swapping rubbers if you're wanting to use heavier ammo (pdi W-hop or ml macaron/omega nub combo are my personal choices).

i'd agree with that. the mechanisms seem to be sound enough, but both the 60 and pkm i've found worked much better once they'd been permanently re-wired to run off the trigger only.

I dunno, a 1j limit never stopped me trying to squeeze every last drip of performance from me pews.

that's the echo 1 version not a&k i don't know anything really about the echo 1 version save that there is a fusion engine variant for it alongside a variant for the a&k based gearboxes. so presumably they're popular enough in the usa to merit such attention?

so the jg version is just a rebrand? sounds promising then.

i kind of view it as standard just because it's a drop-in replacement for a standard (no fancy nubs required like the ml stuff). but at this point we're haggling on terminology. they're pretty decent, certainly i'd prefer them over the prommy for the up to .32 ish range although if your trying to lift heavier it'll struggle. basically i put them in guns that don't like ml stuff. yeah, it's a case of folk recommending things they think they can trust. but often there can be a lot of parroting going on. personally i try to only suggest things i've used myself and found to be good, if i'm suggesting something based on reputation alone i try to mention it. aoe is the oddball though, it does have its place and there are valid reasons to check it but often folks set way more store in it than is really necessary and you get folk over-correcting or applying corrections to guns that don't need it because "you always have to correct the aoe"

i've worked on a&k m60's and pk variations and they seem to use the same box and barrel mech. defo agree with the above but they can run pretty sweet once you've got them setup right and you're not trying to push stupid numbers out of them. their hop units/rubbers are rather lackluster, but an aftermarket rubber and redneck tdc (ie tapping the hole for the nub and fitting a grub screw) seems to work pretty damn well. tbh of the support guns i've used, the pkm seems to be the most practical of the "big" options, although granted the 249 is gonna be much lighter and easier handled. not sure what to make of jg's m240, it could be good or terrible although my gut feeling is if it follows the trend jg's been on lately of producing decent performers it might not be so bad

if you don't classify the pdi w-hop as standard then yeah i can see that angle. like i said it's not bad, it's just not as good as it's made out to be.

You missed the bit where you add a stronger spring. Also am i the only one who doesnt think the prommy purple is that good? I mean its not bad sure but some folk seem to think its the only hop rubber worth buying when frankly maple leaf isnt much more cash but is better.

^ just only use it as a technical reference not a stylistic one

If you dont have the inclination to do it yourself i'd say your better off getting a base gun. Whilst you can build an m4 from parts its no guarantee its gonna be the best, or even good, and most folk will just see it as another ar based gun. I have done it as an evolutionary process and the end result even with things like literally one of a kind handmade parts was still just an m4. If you want to be different then the easiest way is to just buy something that isnt an m4 (or an ak), plenty of gats out there that you seldom see. For example i've never seen anyone fielding an mg42 that wasnt the one i owned. Of course that brings its own problems, particularly when you're committing to proprietary parts which can limit how far you can push performance without a lot of work. The m4 platform is popular for good reason after all.

Honestly as long as nothing is catching and binding, and theres not enough free motion to allow it, then its good enough. Once the sector/idler have been set the pinion only has so far you can move while maintaining good contact which limits how perfect you can get it. There is a level of adjustment at the pinion via the motor that you dont get with the other gears, and its more important the whole system is running smooth. Tbh its kind of academic as technically you should also be ensuring all the gears are matched manufacture too (no sense having perfect pinion-bevel shimming and mismatched tooth profile). Same applies to backlash, even a matched set can have issues if its not the right set for the box.

Yep, a meaningless phrase as even if you replaced every part with an aftermarket alternative its still no guarantee it'll be any good..... Plus most of them you look in the ad and apparently "fully upgraded" is an ebay "tightbore" barrel and a new handguard.....

Fingers crossed. Its not unfixable; cylinder, nozzle, some random o rings and a rewire at least, but more a question of if its worth the time/effort/money to you. I've seen some pretty shoddy things done (and done shoddy things myself) but that is definately up there on a par with the ol' hole drilled in the cylinder as an fps downgrade.... I might suggest for the benefit of future buyers when the outcome is settled to leave a link to this thread in the feedback so folks can make an informed decision on what they might be buying.

Doesnt the baofeng come with an in-ear? I went weird with my setup, a kenwood ptt (security guard spec) with the longest ass cable to plug into my howard leights.

Goddamn thats some sketchy teching. I mean jesus does the guy not have any pride in his work? I feel for you man i really do. This is why i really endorse folks to learn it themselves because then things like this are less of a risk to deal with when you can fix it yourself properly. By the sounds of what your site tech is saying he's talking the right language (identifying lack of spring on hop unit for example) so maybe he can get it sorted?

I always do an all in price because 8 cant be fucked doing the mathematics to figure out what to charge exactly to cover postage and fees and stuff. If your selling secondhand airsoft gear you're gonna be tanking a horrendous loss anyway and after you've lost 40% of retail (more if the current retail is less than what you paid) then is it really worth the hassle for a few quid?

As rocketdogbert says as long as you are convinced that the person your selling to has a valid defence then your sweet. Online that's usually ukara, although i've seen re-enactment memberships too. In person it can be easier if you're playing, folk you see on the regular at sites etc is good strong evidence (arguably stronger than any ukara etc). This is only for rif's though, pouches, accessories, mags etc (anything thats not a gun shaped object) doesnt need that rigmarole.

it is a well known law of the universe that the longer the coffee shop order the bigger the douchebag. for example: "cuppa" versus "i'll have a mocha frappuchino with lactose free cream a shot of pistachio topped with fairtrade cocoa powder and does that come in a cruelty free recyclable cup?"

Depending on the hop unit type you can do it with a small flatblade and a small philips. Its not that bad, i've even done it on-site although its better to do it at home where you can find bits if you drop them. The usual rules apply- dont force things that dont wanna be forced, and be sure to check that everything is sitting in the right positions etc. For a standard unit my preferred method is to pull the gearing and lever first before removing the barrel, and install them last (so the nub isnt catching on the barrel when you install it) Be sure to check that the feed lips arent protruding too far into the feed tube, turn the hop on a bit look down the barrel and make sure it looks nice and square (twiddling may be required) and its not a bad shout to check the hop sits nice and tight to the gearbox (a spring or some small o rings around the barrel to push the hop back are helpful)

not appearing in the feed is the issue. i think i had emails turned off, but it's equally possible i'm one of the spam filter offenders (my email inbox has so many rules it's probably sentient by now ) it's not a massive bugbear, just means i need to remember to periodically check status updates that i've replied to. i notice some folk have started tagging folk in replies to they get a notification.

it looks like the floor sheet of an interior decorator. or what druid said