Rogerborg

I know them feels. It's good to be back. Yup, you're comfortably under, you could even go a bit higher. How was the air seal, and did you lube the o-rings? If not, a squirt of silicone oil down the nozzle (then blow it out on auto before reassembly) can perk up a tired toy.

Nice to see another ex Depot player. If you're looking for sites, I'd recommend Area 66 near Mollinsburn. Smaller than Section 8, but I'd count that as a good thing - you spend much more time playing and less time hiking through the woods. A decent access road, hard standing, lots of covered safe zone, loads of build work and cover, and even a toilet block! https://www.area-66.co.uk/contact-us

Trying to be charitable, he might have been having a bad day after realising that he'd taken on a lot more than he could deal with. But that deserves an apology later. If he's just shrugged it off then it's likely to happen again.

They'll let anyone in here these days, you want to have a word with management.

You'd shrink-wrap the shrink-wrapped replica. Oh, sure, it's an awful idea. I can still see the appeal to a certain sort of collector. Oh, it'll never happen, but the glorious pointlessness of it is why I want to be wrong.

Hmm. It's just a laser on a stick, so no reason it needs to be more than a few £££. But on the other hand, if it's at all off then it would be useless. I'm all for giving things a try, but given that I set the hop each day then set the sight to that, I'm not sure how useful it would be, even given that I swap scores and sights around more or less randomly.

Collectability. Same reason that unboxed collectables are worth more. I can actually see the nerd appeal of something that could only be used once, but never has been. OK, for that I'd ideally go with the KWC Mini-Uzi, cut the barrel down slightly, chop the sights off the top and use very thin kydex to mould two clamshell halves to stick around it, hoping that you'd pick up the details. I wouldn't be that hopeful though, I'd expect they vacuum formed that movie one. Then modify the charging knob, although it's got more travel than shown on that movie prop. Fill the magazine with BBs and epoxy it in place. You'd still need to put a CO2 bulb in, but you'd only get the one mag out of it. I'm not sure how you'd do that yellow safety pull-out, as it goes right through the shooty bits. The cheaper option is to buy a toy Uzi, e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/NET-TOYS-Uzi-Machine-Gun/dp/B009RNMV9E and then try to get the internals from an AEP based gun like the Jing Gong Mac-10, Well M4 or an actual CYMA electric pistol into it. Then you could charge and fit the battery, glue in the mag, and you're done. Absolutely no promises on that: parts from one gun are not guaranteed to fit inside any other, and you need some structure inside there to keep everything square and usable. It's a peculiar thing to do, but tell me that you've never bought an airsoft gun just to hang on the wall or keep in a bag.

I'm sure you're right, but I'm invested now. What I suspect is that OP isn't making movie props, but wants to make shootable copies of a movie prop. I'm not sure why, but given that we spend our weekends playing with toy guns, who are we to judge? The thing is, most movie prop guns are based on real ones, so there probably is something that can be fettled into shape. Whether it's realistic and achievable, especially on budget and given the current stock situation, is another question. But dammit, I have to know.

OK, now I'm really intrigued. I think we're talking different languages here and might have to find a common lexicon in the middle. We're thinking in terms of what we know about airsoft guns and what they can do: we generally buy a fully complete package, most of them can already shoot BBs full auto, and the internals aren't generally swappable between different types of gun. Electric guns tend to have gearboxes and motors that you might be able to repackage inside something else. But with gas guns the body of the gun is generally functional and modification tends to be more about sticking cosmetics on them. If I'm understanding you right, you want to create replicas of a specific theatrical firearm (that's submachine gun sized), and have them be able to shoot BBs. That's opposed to creating actual theatrical props for use on film. Or did I get that wrong? In either case, the clearer and more specific you can be, the better. If you're making replicas of something that already exists, can you let us know what that is? That might help us to suggest a base platform that you can modify, or something that has the most appropriate internals to repurpose.

Well, you've certainly intrigued us. I'm still not entirely sure what you need them to do that they don't already do. If it's actually Uzis you're after, they're pretty rare, and Tokyo Marui never did a "mini" Uzi as far as I'm aware (other than the teeny tiny toy one). If it's something mini-Uzi-like (for the purposes of Joe Viewer) then the electric Jing Gong JG.0452 Mac-10 will shoot BBs on full auto. Or the green gas HFC HG-203 Mac-11 will also full auto on gas, with a recoil action. One issue at the moment is stock levels, which remain low. You might have to settle for whatever you can find. Ah, got you. OK, that's a full size Uzi rather than a "mini", and airsoft versions are sadly rare and unlikely to come cheap. KWC do a "mini" Uzi that's full auto capable. But again, you'll have trouble finding one, let alone several. Is this for a period piece, or are you just looking for something smallish that can spit BBs? Do you want some visible moving action on them? Most electric airsoft guns don't have external moving parts - there are exceptions, but generally you have to go to gas to get proper blowback actions. The more detail you can give us about what you're after and why, the more helpful we can (hopefully) be with suggestions.

Er, confused. The only TM "mini" Uzi that I'm aware of is the diddy toy sized version that takes AA batteries and shoots about .1J, fully auto only. Are you talking about that one, or the full sized TM Uzi - which I'd be surprised to see anyone meddling with given the rarity.

Oof. OK, sounds like you've been properly mugged off. Well, he's made his choice, all you can do is to make yours.

Yup, the AOLS I just got was pretty oily, but cleaned up nicely. Accuracy is unknown, but the 110mm in my MP5K is fine, and they both do a good job in keeping the puff behind the BB.

Sorry to hear that, druid, it's sad to hear that a good site has gone bad. I'd sack it off for the owner's attitude, there's no fixing that. On the money though, I actually appreciate Mrs Owner's honesty, and I think we need to have an honest conversation about that. £25 per person for a full day plus maybe a couple of quid profit on BBs or bangs is great value for us, but a poor earner for sites. I'm astonished that they manage to run at all on such thin gruel. Compare that to pack of chavs where they turned over £600 in 2 hours. It rather sounds like the site owner has decided that you're more trouble than you're (literally) worth. If he's trying to make a living from the land, he could actually be right about that. So it might be best to just wish him the best of luck and move on.

Great, that's an improvement, and that's what I'd expect from an M100 spring. 100 is notionally 100 metres = 328 feet on 0.2g. Aside I can't be doing with 0.2g fps numbers, as who's using 0.2g BBs these days? But we are where we are. With a long barrel and heavier BBs you want a bit more puff behind them, so if you're happy that it's as good as it's going to get, I'd also agree that dropping a bigger spring in make sense now. If it comes in over, then you can chop off a coil or just heat the end over a lighter until it just starts to glow and squish the final coil in, which will drop the power a little. I can't find any information on the diameter of your barrel, only the length, so the other thing you might consider is a tighter bore barrel. @ak2m4 is the go-to for gear, and while I'd normally recommend ZCI, I've also had good experiences with AOLS and have just dropped this (in-stock) 455mm into my DMR. https://www.ak2m4.co.uk/internal-parts/inner-barrels/aols-aeg-inner-barrel-455mm That's getting me a very decent 1.7 - 1.8J out of an M130 spring, which is slight more than you'd notionally expect. I'm going by this listing of your gun which claims a 463mm barrel. You should of course check, and it's fine to go shorter on barrels: once the puff from the cylinder runs out, the barrel is really just getting in the way.

Ahoy and welcome. Indoor CQB is ace, it's much more intense than woodland, you'll have a blast.

To be fair, TaiwanGun and GunFire gear might take on collector status soon.

360 no-scopes incoming. Have you played yet? Actual airsoft sniping isn't like YouTube airsoft sniping.

I've seen sites which have the same 2.32J limit and MEDs for DMRs and bolt actions, which seems very strange. My local has a 1.88J limit for DMRs, which I actually think is a bit high considering how useful I think it will be at that site. It's a narrow site and a lot of the games end up as standoffs with BBs falling just short. I'll see how it works, but might even agitate to have the power limit lowered. I have to admit that my new effort is a bit of a Frankengun, being an M933 carbine with a 7" barrel extension on it. I've got a solid stock on the way from China, and will be running short mags. Or rather, short mag, since cheap stubbies are out of stock and I'm not paying £12 and up for what's left on the market at the moment.

Well, 1.3J or about 375fps. And I'd note that's with "any missile", not whatever you happen to have in there. This is a particular issue for HPA / gas owners who may be over-volumed and Joule creep to infinity and beyond if something heavier is put in there. I'm not aware of it being an issue yet, but if I was a copper needing to hit some firearms targets "key performance indicators" I might be minded to do a sweep at my local airsoft site with a bag of 0.86g steel BBs and an "Oh deary me" speech prepared.

Best of luck. The thing about airsoft is that it's not an exact science, and by that I mean that it tends not to be reproducible. The quality control is all over the place, and it only takes a fraction of a mm gap to reduce air seal. It could be something as simple as the barrel not being fully seated in the hop, or the hop unit not being pushed back against the gearbox hard enough by whatever spring or o-ring is supposed to be doing that. It's really a case of trial and error to see what works for your particular gun, and I'd go with the easy stuff first.

That is fully relatable.

Nice job. Fans are the only real solution to fogging, I can sweat up anything less, even dual pane with Revision wipes. Is the mesh hot-melt glued on top of the goggles?

I don't think that OP has changed the barrel, just that it's 400mm to begin with, and it seems to have a full cylinder. It looks to have been designed as a DMR platform and with all those o-rings it should be capable of reaching or exceeding site limits - if everything is sealing OK.