Rogerborg

Time, or distance? I mean, the limiting factor is doubtless the amount of road.

It doesn't burn out, it just bleeps-out and refuses to play at too high a current draw. I've experienced it, someone else here has too (I forget who), but that's with 11.1V and a Big Dragon M160 brushed motor (meaty but not particularly efficient) in a 1.8J DMR build. Worst case, you already have 7.4V so can fall back to that if you do experience it on a game day. I wouldn't be put off going to 11.1V just because of the stock X-ASR. The fact that it's there means you can replace it an actual fire control mosfet like a Warfet or Perun AB++ (or insert other mosfet of choice) with a bit of soldering.

When your Enfield loses the parking pose-off outside Morrisons, but you don't mind second place. I took a picture of both bikes, shopped, came out, bloke was taking a picture of both bikes. That's a 95 year old 1930 Indian Scout, that's still ridden regularly. Started on the first kick, purred away. It almost make me pine for a proper classic rather than a repro, oil leaks and all.

Not sweat it, it's clearly a random process, and you have a defence should it come to it. If you do speak to a solicitor, I'd hope the advice is "Don't invite the police in, don't show off your assault-shaped toys, and don't talk to them at all."

Well, that's yore opinion.

The stock barrel is fine, and replacing it won't have any effect on whether it's hopped properly or not: that's all down to the hop unit, rubber, and nub. Actually, stock everything should be fine, I suspect there's something wrong there. I'd again ask whether you're seeing any hop effect being applied, particularly with 0.28g. What's the hop set to?

Perun AB++ is well featured. You'll need to do a bit of soldering. You can also go with an optical mosfet inside the gearbox, I don't dabble in such sorcery though.

Not! Sure! If! Scam! But! Urgency! Suggest! Is! Scam!

Mags are key. None of mine will feed fast enough to satisfy stock JG G36 gears and ~1.1J spring, stone-age brushed Big Dragon M140, 11.1V 1.4Ah 30C, and slightly chonkier wiring with Perun AB++. I don't even know what rps it's running at because... well, the mags won't keep up. 5 round burst tends to get off 3 or 4 BBs. Once you start down the path of wankergunnery, you're going to keep running into one limit after another, so just dive in and solve the problems as you find them.

A mosfet with pre-cocking can do this. The X-ASR in your EDGE is only there for trigger protection, and can actually crap-out if you run a meatier motor (although I've only had that happen on 11.1v). The XT and 13:1 should help, as long as the battery can provide the amperage. As with most of airsoft uPgRaDeZ, the only way to really find out is to try it and see how well it works in your gun.

Nice of him to list the new, retail price of everything, I guess, but what does he expect to sell his used, warranty-free, condition-unknown items for? 🤷‍♂️

It's an older meme, but it checks out.

Muhammad McGlynn is an epic result from the RNG (Random Name Generator) though.

"I'll just step on that solid piece of moss an- [SPLOOSH]" Is it wrong to encourage rentals to perform... reconnaissance? As above, the colder (and drier) the better.

Non-magnified? Tube, or reflex? For non-magnified airsoft purposes, I get on fine with this style, which is sold in many many rebrandings from Amazon, eBay or AliExpress. I have two. They're light but solidly enough made, hold their zero over a day, are bright, and have a variety of reticules. Importantly, they're cheap enough not to cry over if you run without a sight protector and they get shot out. I really can't justify paying more than £20-£30 for a sight that's more consistent than the BB. What don't you like about your current sight?

I see you're pre-warming the mags, smart thinking.

Brushless is doubtless where we're going to end up, but I reckon the Big Dragon M140 is great value for money if you don't want to splurge that much. I'm running 2 of those (and an M160 in a DMR, but avoid the M120) and can't fault them. Running on 11.1V without any short stroking they eat BBs faster than my mags can feed them - I've just introduced some ROF reduction into one gun to calm it down.

Ahoy and welcome. I'm very sorry to hear that, and surprised too. My TAC-41 (gen 2, after they fixed the feed ramp) has been one of the very few airsoft purchases that's actually performed as advertised, right out of the box with just a spring change. Your energy is spot on 2.3J, so that's not the problem. It sounds like you're just very under-hopped. Do you actually see a difference in BB trajectory as you increase the hop? You should be able to send .28g BBs into low earth orbit with a decent amount of hop applied. If not, on the off chance that there's something damaged in there, you could try a Chub Nub, or replace the hop rubber, or waaaaait a second. When you say you've lubed it, including the "cup", have you put any sort of lube, like silicone oil, inside the barrel, hop unit, or inside the cylinder (or into the mags)? Is it possible that you've fouled the hop rubber with lubricant? And have you tried cleaning the hop rubber (and barrel) with a barrel cleaning rod and some paper towel / fabric patch, ideally with some isopropanol? Hang in there, it's a decent design and we should be able to figure this out.

Thus my first question. It's a bit like asking "What's the best dog?"

That's exactly what I was angling to rule out (as an AEG), for the simple reason that 1.1-1.2J is more than 0.8J, and belief in TM magic dust only goes so far once the BB has left the barrel and physics takes over. Are we ruling out the Novritsch SSR4?

You're going to dress up in daft clothes to use expensive toys that will sit in your garage most of the time and break as soon as you look at them? Weirdo.

Good on you for asking. https://airsoft-forums.uk/classifieds/ and read the banner. You may need to make a few more posts to get access to the classifieds. If you want to actually sell stuff, then 60-70% of the current lowest retail value is a realistic price to achieve. Extras and uPgRaDeS don't add much, they're more of a deal sweetener. Used two tones are less desirable than RIFs. Do yourself a favour and figure out any extra fees and postage up front and list an all-in price, rather than starting to tack on more costs later. Most sensible buyers will only pay by PayPal goods-and-services (not friends and family), or face-to-face. It's quick and easy to send a PayPal invoice / request a payment, listing exactly what you're offering and what you want them to pay. Understand that postage is at your risk, not the buyers, and figure out what level of risk and cover you want to accept. That's entirely your concern. Best of luck.

Best by what metric? No work on it at all (beyond barrel cleaning)?

Thanks, @0mega, we rarely get these follow-ups. Good to hear that you got it resolved.

Ahoy and welcome. I'm unclear, did you disassemble the upper / handguard and do anything with the outer barrel? Or was it already like that? Do you have a picture of how badly it's off centre? Have you adjusted the motor height? You want to move the adjusted screw in gradually until it you can hear it just starting to screech, then back it out. Play around with it a bit to hear the different sounds it makes at different heights, and get it as quiet as you can. You might find that you're comparing against video of short-stroked gearboxes as well, with higher torque motors, running on 11.1V. Specna stock motors are OK, but not great. Most aftermarket motors will be significantly snappier.