Rogerborg

Mmm, airsofters are already delusional enough about the performance of our assault-toys without adding tangerine trees and marmalade skies into the mix.

Heroic, I'd call it quits at 25. I took 4 litres of water today but only got to drink 2 since we got into a literal fire-fight before the end of the day, and our priorities changed rather sharply.

Ah, DPM, a man of taste. Sorry, I can't speak to the I82s, although I do get the impressiont that they're somewhat fo a labour of love. I'm aware of that CYMA review and my impression is that the intention was to see how long it took to burn it out through abuse. It's not something that would concern me in practice - CYMA stuff tends to be pretty robust.

Great to hear, I assume you've got your future purchases planned out.

Just drilled a hole in the side, there's plenty of meat on these goggles between the frames. I've also enlarged those existing vent holes a bit with a pointed soldering iron. Gentle, which is all I need given that these are already dual paned and I'm using Revision wipes. It's just for the times when I'm still after exertion. I have FMA fan goggles with a tiny side fan which also work, but I prefer these goggles as they're slightly neater and lighter.

Good news, my hat is fully charged! I've just thrown that unit together from a 12V fan[1], a small 7.4V lipo with some kydex wrapped round it to make a holder, a switch, and some silicone tubing, all liberally[2] hot-melted together and finished off with Poundand's very best rattlecan black. [1] This is running much quieter off of 7.4V than the visually identical one sealed in to my Space Soldier helmet. I wonder if that might be a 5V unit. [2] Liberally in the sense of sloppily, lazily and without any care or pride in my work.

Before going to collect some left handed hammers and tartan paint? Poh-tay-toes I'd heard of, but onions are a new one. It was pinlock visor inserts that convinced me that dual-paning airsoft goggles is the way to go, and the way to go it is. I'd actually recommend that as the default anti-fog strategy, given how cheap and easy it is to do to any goggles.

You can learn as you go, kydex is super easy to use. It's tough but easy enough to cut, then just heat it and shape, and reheat and reshape as often as necessary until you're happy. You can use a heat gun, or just pop it in an oven. 2mm should be good enough, 3mm would be really solid.

I've looked into it and did the sums on the resistance wire. I reckon a couple of Watts should be sufficient and you'd get several hours out of a decent 18650 cell. The wires shouldn't be that visible up close, less than mesh. Fortunately (or unforunately, for science) my dual pane, fan, and Revision wipes have rendered it unncessary, but it's on my list to try anyway at some point, just for kicks.

Yup, I was very surprised to discover that they're usable as a woodland primary, even as stock. Not something that I'd expected, and it demonstrates how much barrel length doesn't really matter in airsoft. I was minded to short-stroke mine, but I was too cheap to spring for a full metal racked piston. Although thinking about it, if you only remove the teeth that aren't going to get engaged, then it's not like you're putting any more strain on the plastic ones. If you're binning off the vertical grip, have you considered making a whole new front grip piece out of kydex?

I haven't found anything better than Revision wipes. I've tested them side-by-side against Cat Crap, Rain-X anti-fog, shaving foam, washing up liquid, spit, and potato. Yes, potato. The Revision wipes are literally the clear winner. However, as you've found, they don't actually remove moisture. For that you need ventilation and I'm a big fan of fans. Even the tiny fans in FMA goggles (or more expensive versions) do shift a bit of air, especially if you over-volt them. Best results I've got are from 12V blowers, often sold as 3D printer fans, run off a spare 7.4V lipo, and a piece of tubing to get the air inside the goggles. Or ExFog, if you want the commercial alternative.

It's an inherent problem with the V3 two-part trigger, especially in this long configuration. There's loads of take-up before the slack comes out, and I haven't found a way of sorting it, because you need the slack to allow the trigger trolley to disengage. I might take a punt on one of the cheaper optical mosfets from AliExpress. I might just have got a bad one, mine looks different from the stock motor that Luke pulled out of his (although it was also missing the grub screw and left the pinion inside the gearbox). A decent motor really transformed it though, especially the semi-auto response. Yup, although the real fix is to tighten the screws on the hop (carefully). Splitting it is easy enough, just take the back pins out, then then unscrew and push through the pin just behind the magwell, and it slides apart. There's some wiggling and squeezing together of the upper to get it all fully apart, but it just takes a bit of self belief. When re-assembling, it helps to not push the hop unit fully home first: keep it loose and pull it back onto the gearbox, as it has to go in at an angle, and it's tricky getting the nozzle to seat into the hop if the hop is already fully home. All that said, it's decent enough out of the box, especially for the price, and it doesn't need anything doing to it, especially not inside the perfectly solid gearbox. I've just had fun finding out how much you can do with one, it's been one of my best purchases.

^^^ That gopping solution is surprisingly cheap from PatrolBase. I've gone with a clamp on rail (MP5 / G3) and an offset mount FTW. Good job on scoring a Galaxy, they're cheap, fun little guns, and surprisingly shooty: mine was 0.9J (310-315 fps) out of the box and is up to 1.04J now (335fps) with a 6.01mm AOLS barrel, Maple Leaf rubber and an M100 spring (plus o-ring stetching and greasing) on the stock air components. I think the stock spring is maybe an M90. Should you ever need to know, the hop unit is Jing Gong equivalent. The weak points are the sloppy hop, stock battery, the motor and the lonnnnng trigger pull. 7.4V lipos can fit down the tube and you can even just about squeeze in a small mosfet - I recommend switching the wiring to the rear. Retain the plastic gubbins in the front though, as it gives some rigidity to the muzzle. Pushing or pulling on the grip can deflect the muzzle, which is an issue if you've got a tracer or suppressor on it, it can actually cause the BBs to impact on it. The slide hop isn't great, it's not precise and mine was loose from the factory and loved to wind itself off. I'd recommend tightening up the screws on both sides, cable-tying the hop arm to the barrel, and/or packing rubber o-rings under it to give it more stickiness. A better motor really helps with trigger response. With a Big Dragon M140, 7.4V lipo and mosfet mine is pretty snappy now. The trigger itself is problematic, you can't shim out all the slack or else it doesn't reset, although I've got small pieces of rubber glued front and back to take out as much as possible. An optical trigger mosfet might solve it. Luke at Negative Airsoft demonstrates on this pre-gopped example (and yes, mine was missing the motor pinion grub screw too)...

Nice one! Also, you jammy git. Also to the also, I'm surprised that they didn't put a bit of time into sorting it, given the desirability.

Is the correct answer. I hope that you just went with "Goods not received" and didn't go into the (irrelevant) backstory. It's hard on EU sellers, and I don't blame them for the problems being inflicted by bureaucratic parasites having a dick swinging contest. However, they're businesses, they know the score with contractual obligations.

Trying to be charitable, he might have been having a bad day after realising that he'd taken on a lot more than he could deal with. But that deserves an apology later. If he's just shrugged it off then it's likely to happen again.

Oof. OK, sounds like you've been properly mugged off. Well, he's made his choice, all you can do is to make yours.

Sorry to hear that, druid, it's sad to hear that a good site has gone bad. I'd sack it off for the owner's attitude, there's no fixing that. On the money though, I actually appreciate Mrs Owner's honesty, and I think we need to have an honest conversation about that. £25 per person for a full day plus maybe a couple of quid profit on BBs or bangs is great value for us, but a poor earner for sites. I'm astonished that they manage to run at all on such thin gruel. Compare that to pack of chavs where they turned over £600 in 2 hours. It rather sounds like the site owner has decided that you're more trouble than you're (literally) worth. If he's trying to make a living from the land, he could actually be right about that. So it might be best to just wish him the best of luck and move on.

To be fair, TaiwanGun and GunFire gear might take on collector status soon.

That is fully relatable.

Nice job. Fans are the only real solution to fogging, I can sweat up anything less, even dual pane with Revision wipes. Is the mesh hot-melt glued on top of the goggles?

Huh, the Mandarin Empire must have given me a decent social credit score, I've been getting stuff from AliExpress within 2 weeks, and under a week on one case. Given the absolute mare that folk seem to be having importing stuff from the continent or the colonies, I'd still rather gamble on our Chinese overlords, if for no other reason than the sheer volume of tat flooding in from there probably swamps the fun police in Border Farce.

Edge 2.0s start at £200 and upwards, and that's if they were in stock which they don't seem to be. That's my total budget, and I've come in under it with the DMR barrels, cylinder and spring. I know that Specna's QC and OEM have been patchy, but the EDGE 1 has all the parts that I want, and I'm prepared to take a gamble on the bearings and gears holding out for a bit. I'll be sure to flag up if I've guessed wrong.