Rogerborg

Now being used to farm dopamine on Gun Jesus Wouldn't Like This Faceache group.

Daily Mail Sadface Intensifies. Boys will be boys, we used to get up to much worse back in the day with actual air pistols, scrumping dinosaurs, and so on. But it's not back in the day, and gold isn't one of the colours in the 2007 regs. That's a RIF. Dibble should be looking into who sold it to her, or worse, to him. Tough on the lad, but the deck was already stacked against him. Where's his dad?

Another decent day at the very-CQB Biohazard. High intensity, not too much faffing around between games, and generally fair and good natured play. The newer upstairs area is great, with a killhouse maze in the middle that saw the bodies piled like cordwood. I'm surprised they don't make more use of that floor. The usual complaints regarding marshalling. Too much generic lecturing at briefings, too little enforcement in game. I got cheat called by a gobby grenadier who was adamant that I wasn't behind hard cover and so he must have got me. Every time I shot him, he came back and had another shouty moan about it. Unaware that there was a marshal standing right next to me who'd told me not to take his grenade hit. Funny up to a point, but she could hear him cheat calling and didn't do anything thing about it. Don't say it if you're not going to enforce it.

Seethe and cope, this is what peak performance looks like. That whole thing is put together to invoke screeching from purists: there are no Assault-Rifle-16 variants with a solid stock and short barrel, and yet it lives.

My tall-boi tribute to the latest operator fad for raised optics. Or: "You just went full Fudd. You never go full Fudd."

Oof, that'll go from too little to too much just by thinking of touching the wheel. The last thing I'd do there is to use a flat bucking. Maple Leaf all the way, get as much squish in there as you can. The arm from a ZCI rotary hop might fit. There's a spares kit available, although currently out of stock at AK2M4. Or, have you tried throwing the hop from your G&G in there to see how close the fit is? The flanges on the side of yours don't go as far forwards as on a ZCI V2 rotary, but files exist if the problem is too much material. On that, you could try to file a notch into the arm's bell end to hold a nub. There's not much there to work with, but with a small enough file and some precision and luck, an h-nub might be doable. If that goes wrong, you could just flatten it off and cut up a rectangular pencil eraser nub, the traditional pairing with a flat bucking from circa 2005 Reddit. I've done that with a ZCI rotary hop and it does work, hopping 0.28g just fine. It's a gamble though, and pointless now that Maple Leafs exist.

That just raises further questions. Do you have a picture of this hop arm? With a flat hop, you need a larger nub to press more of the bucking through barrel window. Examples: Or you can cut up a piece of pencil eraser or similar that just fits the barrel window. I'll stop guessing now and wait for more info.

So we're all on the same page, what exactly did you do to flat hop it? What bucking did you use? What nub are you using? What is it chronoing at with the hop off, with it hopped for 0.25g and 0.28g? When you look down the hop unit and barrel while winding the hop from minimum to maximum, can you see the bucking pressing progressively into the barrel? At minimum, is it only just visible? And out of interest, why flat hop rather than throwing in a Maple Leaf bucking and omega nub? I ask because I have done a successful pencil-eraser flat hop out of historical interest, but it's essentially pointless now that Maple Leaf is a thing.

Edited for brevity. I don't really disagree with you, but neither do I kid myself that we're going to see a return to facts-and-reason-based discussion. Demographics is destiny, and our trajectory is towards Idiocracy, not Star Trek. I'm just enjoying what's left of the ride.

There are no guarantees in airsoft, and little quality control. Everything is a gamble. Here's what I've found: 11.1V is the cheapest way to make your motor spin faster. Dumb brushed motors aren't complicated: the more voltage you put across the terminals, the quicker they'll spin. They'll also heat faster and wear out faster, but, meh, airsoft, pretty much everything is a consumable. Whatever voltage you're using, you'll want a battery capable of delivering the highest possible amperage (i.e. capacity * C rating). The one thing I am certain of is that you should never let the battery be the limiting factor or you'll put the heat there, and cook it. 11.1V and a £30 Big Dragon M140 motor from AlieExpress with an M100-ish spring (i.e. ~1.1J) gets me an auto fire rate that I wouldn't want to push any higher because of the risk of premature engagement, plus a decent semi auto response. However, if you make your motor spin faster by whatever means, you can then get overspin and double-shots on semi. This may or may not be an issue for you depending on your site and intended usage, especially if you can pop in a weedier battery just for chrono then restrain yourself on the field. Adding a mosfet with a pre-cock setting, e.g. a Perun AB++ takes care of the double-tap and improves the semi-auto even further. It also adds the option of bursts, and even of reducing the fire rate if you're over-cooked it. Some Specna COREs have an X-ASR mosfet, some don't, but it's only there for trigger protection, and mine gets in a sulk over current if I put even a Big Dragon M140 or M160 in, even on 7.4V. Sorry, I've no experience with motors in your price range.

Put white BBs in a pink bottle? I mean for all that you'll actually see of them while playing.

Tee hee. Just seen this on Twatter. It's both hilarious and appalling how many of the replies are apparently sincere "Rrrraragh MUH Secund Amundmant rites! Molton Labia!!!!!!" Even after having the obvious pointed out, it's "MUH PIONT STILL STANS!!!!"

Given that I keep losing those annoying motor disks that stock grips tend to rely on to interface between the adjustment screw and the motor, I've just taken to cutting octagonal(ish) replacements out of whatever pieces of stiff plastic I happen to have to hand. Section of fairly wide cable tie work well enough, and you could glue and stack them as high as you need. Also, wooden dowel remains a thing. I'm actually eyeing up a broken arrow shaft as I type this... I reckon the best thing you can do with a Specna Edge grip is to birl it into the bits box and fit just about anything else. The $9.99 aftermarket one I got from AliExpress has a lovely big adjustment screw that doesn't need any silly disk on the end of it. It does come with a rubber o-ring, but that's not actually necessary. If you needed to, you could drop a cylindrical dowel into the adjustment screw hole and it should be pretty stable.

Unless the grip is substantially thicker at the top, could you retain the existing motor shaft length, but shove it further up into the grip by packing underneath it? It seems like this might be more secure than introducing shoogliness (my word for the day) by putting in a longer shafted motor that may have more of its length inside the grip than its stock spring is intended to tension. Top quality enginenerding diagram, illustrating how you might be able to bodge it for the cost of a bit of dowel. You could test the theory by taking the end off the grip and shoving the existing motor right in by hand (well, by thumb) to see if it'll engage (in Minecraft, obviously, never do this to a real high quality airsoft replica, you'll 100% shred your gears and open a rift in the space time continuum). If so, you'll just / "just" need to get it pushed that far in by packing under it.

I've just been admonished with XT30, it's still too tender to talk about.

Well, that's no fun, what a selfish git.

Do as I say, not as I did, but if (e.g.) CYMA went to XT60 overnight, would anyone find a reason to grumble or switch to anything else? Mini-Tamiya is actually OK. I mean internally it's two banana connectors, same as (but smaller than) XT60. It's just the plastic round it that's too shoogly for my tastes.

With the caveat that this is just my own sub-cult beliefs, and our RC chums know much more: I buy whatever brand of lipo battery is the cheapest, as I'm now fairly convinced that anything sold for airsoft tends to be junk cells anyway, and I'm actually an advocate of buying twice rather than buying "quality". Charger, I'd only go SkyRC and the groupthink suggests the S65 (I have the much older B6 which works, but the S65 is the modern equivalent). I've rewired to Deans because it's clearly a better connectors than mini-Tamiya. However, if I were doing it all over again, I'd probably go straight to XT60, on the understanding that then I'd have to keep re-wiring to that since RC form factor batteries with XT60 tend not to fit in airsoft toys. Deans is easy enough to solder onto, just be super-strict about only cutting then re-soldering one battery wire at a time. I am not dead yet, and I treat my lipos with disdain bordering on contempt. I can usually just about get a full day out of a single 1200-1400mAh cell, but I'm not trigger happy. However, I generally switch at lunch, and when I've forgotten, I've occasionally run out at the end of the day. I'd stick with 7.4v as I get brutal overspin and double-shots on all my M100 / ~1.1J AEGs with 11.1V. I only run 11.1V in one gun with an anti-brake / pre-cock mosfet, and in my M140-ish 1.8J DMR. I'd always go with the biggest, highest capacity and C rated cell that I can fit. Never make the battery the limiting factor. The exception to the quality, durability and capacity cheapskate arguments above might be lithium-ion batteries, e.g. Titan Power, rather than lithium-polymer. I haven't dabbled in them, they cost more than I'd prefer to spend, but they claim higher capacity, and we've seen owners say they've got multiple days out of them after forgetting to recharge.

Heheh, he's just dropped it to a bargain £170. I've updated the question. 👍 Apparently it "works perfectly excluding the safety". Like, my car is perfect, except don't park it on a hill, because the handbrake doesn't work.

And still asking £250 for a defective example of a toy that's £200 new, in stock at Patrol Base. I wonder if the seller calls hits to his solid brass neck.

Ahoy and welcome. I have a CM.123 myself, and you can just about use it CQB. The lack of any rails means no integral torch option, I don't know how dark Bunker 51 is. They're very low powered at about 0.37J, but the big issue is the woeful semi-auto response using the provided nimh battery. You can get an aftermarket lipo battery that's a direct replacement, or you can rewire it yourself - even a tiny 7.4V 300mAh lipo gave me much better trigger response. Consistency is actually OK. Extra magazines run surprisingly expensive, although the aftermarket "100" round (more like 50 or 60) extended plastic mags are pretty decent. You'll be outshot by just about everything out there, and might not have a great time. Even the very cheapest CYMA M4s or AKs will vastly outperform it. So you could rent a site AEG and use the CM.123 as a backup, or you could just turn up with the pistol and see how you get on. You might find that other players will take pity on you and lend you a carbine - I usually bring one or two spares.

It's like some beautiful meme come true! Will this be the first airsoft gun that's more reliable and accurate than the real-plastic original?

Nicely covered above. It's much more intense, hurts more, and you will be shot up a treat from all sorts of unexpected angles until you learn the site. In indoors semi-auto very-CQB, I get through less ammo, but then I play at sites that frown on "pre-firing", and crack down on trigger-spam (well, in the airsoft sense of shouting about it). Because of the extra stimulus, folk can get more worked up, and you'll be in close contact with plenty of Major Move-Ups!, always yelling in your earballs, always from behind you - so maybe you don't want to amplify voices. On the other hand, it's a right laugh with the right people, as long as folk are willing to take trade-offs cheerfully. I've tried to inculcate myself to turn the reflexive "Ouch you foppish cad!" into "Oh, jolly good shot, my fine fellow!" (or similar words). Project positivity. Being able to hug cover and corners does give you more options, so I go short barrelled. Pistols, SMGs and short barrelled carbines all work fine. You can work with longer though, it's not critical.