Rogerborg

Pliny the Elder: People from India look like this, because the Romans said so.

Fascinating. What's the primary source reference for that?

Cards on the table, I like the SRS and the Steyr Scout, but the SSG10 is £100 less and ticks all the right boxen. I've been F5'ign UKFOB since I started this thread.

Really? That's an astonishingly specific claim. What's your primary source reference for that?

I see White Guy Dreadlocks, I hit the "Call the Cultural Appropriation Police" button.

It would be doing God's work.

Hmm, internerds reckon that it's based on the SSG24, and the Modify mags do look similar. Not that there are loads of the SSG24 mags kicking around.

Under £100! Which is pretty surprising for springy things that claim to be bang on 500-ish fps / 2.3J. Magazine availability looks quite patchy though. My pennies, yes, but in this case someone is looking to buy it for me as a *cough*tieth birthday present, so I might break my £140 record.

Snap, with a Big Dragon M160 on 7.4V pulling a 1.8J M130-ish spring. Fine with that battery and spring and the stock motor, fine with an M90 spring and a Big Dragon M140 (at 7.4V or 11.1V), but craps out at pulling anything harder and faster. A basic mosfet is great to allow more current flow, but only it if does allow more current flow. This is ticking a feature box while not really doing anything useful.

Specifically the Kings Arms? I ask because there's also an AGM: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/agm-svd-m-bolt-action-sniper-rifle And a KOER: https://www.patrolbase.co.uk/koer-svd-bolt-action-sniper-rifle The AGM admits to being a meaty old lad to straight pull, and I suspect the KOER will likely be much the same, "Easy straight pull design" claims to the contrary. SVDs are an interesting option, but long + stronk is the opposite of what I'm looking for. I'm circling around to SRS A2s which offer short and stout (cylinders) with a reportedly easier pull. Although it's hard to find arguments against the SSG10, apart from the marketing wankery.

Agreed, the X-ASR mosfet in the Edge is largely pointless, and actually a problem with higher draw motors.

Lots of it around. Have you let @Jedi_Master know?

Look interest- "Weight: 6.100 Kg (with magazine)." 😲 Nah, I don't fancy mounting it on a gun carriage.

Stock motors tend to be a bit meh for semi-auto response, I've upgraded all mine. SHS Hi Torque are popular, but I'm a cheapskate so use Big Dragon M140s (and M160 in a 1.8J DMR) from AliExpress. Even the most basic mosfet will allow more current flow to the motor, they are worth throwing in for that. For reliability though, it's another thing to mess up or go wrong, and new trigger contacts are £5 delivered for V2 / V3 gearboxen.

Ah, right. Might actually be a better route to go then.

They're yellow-snow flavoured. Nimh works, and is less explodey than lithium. It's just old technology with a high self-discharge rate and lower power delivery.

Ahoy and welcome. Yes, it's a blast. Don't eat the BBs, even the tasty looking yellow 0.12g. Nothing wrong with any of those choices, and CYMAs are fine. They used to be regarded as cheap tat until folk realised that they're cheap because they make so many of them, not because they don't know what they're doing. You can pay a lot more for worse internals. How are you doing for batteries? The CYMA comes with a nimh, but I wouldn't invest any more money in that technology, either in batteries or chargers. Lithium based is the way to go now, either lipo, or li-ion, and we like the SkyRC S65 chargers.

True to the above, although I'd note that if the goal of "durability and reliability" is to reduce costs, that there's little point in replacing a part that isn't already worn or broken. The very cheapest mosfets cost more than multiple sets of trigger contacts. Unless you're running 11.1V (and even if you are) you're likely to relegate a starter AEG to a backup role before you burn out the contacts. And CYMA put plastic racked pistons into toys putting out 1.5J as stock. They won't strip straight away on stock gears and motors. So there's no need to really do anything other than sort the factory shimming and snot-grease lube. And even then, I've yet to buy an AEG with bad shimming, even the cheapest CYMA or Galaxy. Those Chinese child labourers know their business (if they want to eat).

And expecting you to use some sort of retailer sorcery to tell him what muzzle energy he'd be seeing?

Do the CORE models have the Orion gearbox? If so, they're a poor choice for a DMR build, as they're notoriously prone to cracking. Well, I say that, but I'm using an Edge with an Orion as a 1.8J+ DMR and it hasn't let go yet. An M115 spring is notionally going to get you 377fps / 1.32J, so congratulations, you've just built a Section 5 prohibited firearm, go directly to jail. Really though, that's likely to be way too hot for any UK sites. Why on earth you'd put an M115 in it without a chrono boggles the mind. Do you know what it was shooting at with the M90? Either way, I'd get that back in there before you play next. I echo all of the above. Or if you want to chisel a few £££ and aren't in a particular hurry, the Big Dragon M140 motors (or "mortors") from AliExpress can come in a bit cheaper and are pretty meaty. Yup. I'd take careful note of what's already in there as well, I'm pretty sure that my Edge came with an unannounced flat hop bucking and nub rather than the more usual mounded bucking and cylinder nub. Those work together as a pair and are unlikely to pay well with individual alternatives. The CORE may not have a flat hop though, and you're unlikely to go far wrong with a Maple Leaf bucking and nub combination.

Rules that out, I already have a cheap and randomly uPgR4d3d Well MB-03 with a horrible bolt pull, and am looking for something as smooth as Mila Kunis' cheeks.

A celebrity rubber chicken.

May not be entirely serious - AFUKers who spray together stay together. At this point I'll uprate any post that escalates us to the point where someone gets threatened in real life, in Minecraft.

They may have been mouthing things that they didn't type though. Personally, I try not to piss off sellers, since I'm essentially relying on your goodwill to post the thing off at all. I am genuinely curious as to why you don't list the PayPal G&S price, since in most cases you're then going to ask for that anyway, right? Is it because you reckon you get more interest by listing at £30 rather than £31.20? But how does that gel with flexing about having more buyers lined up than you can cope with? Wouldn't it be better to put off filthy poors who are going to baulk at the real price, and not waste your valuable time in dealing with their grunting and grumbling? 🤔

Do you check the cell resistances? I ask because one of the very few really interesting things that I've seen on Facebook was a chap comparing airsoft batteries to RC batteries. He found that the airsoft cells were trash, fresh out of the box, with far higher internal resistance than the RC cells. The speculation is that decent cells go into RC branded packs, and the near-rejects into airsoft packs. My older B6 doesn't do cell resistances so I can neither confirm nor deny it with my personal collection. I do agree though that for the cost of airsoft batteries compared to just about everything else in the hobby, and how hard and often we really use them compared to our RC chums, longevity isn't such a big issue. I've only had one battery actually fail, and already have more spares than I need, as I can use smaller form factor batteries in larger capacity guns if necessary.