Rogerborg

Sorry, nothing specific about that model, I won't touch Eyetalian because of the love-it-on-the-road, hate-it-in-the-workshop relationship that owners seem to have. (If you liked that video, check out the chap's channel which, unlike Eyetalian bikes or airsoft guns, is an exemplar of quality control.)

He's surprisingly nuanced and affecting in The Foreigner. Actual genuine acting, I preferred his quiet scenes to the contractually required action.

Shouldn't really run 0.12g, but [looks around shiftily] they can't all be market stall yellow, right? There really is. I ran it as tertiary on Sunday, and used it in a kill-house, hammer cocked in preference to rocking my Glock. Every point-blank hit with it was immensely satisfying even though most of them were trade-offs - which means the 6 shots isn't actually a problem. Less can be more.

Per my review, it's a point-blank trinket only. It's a wonder that it shoots at all when you consider that there's hard plastic interfacing with the brass cartridges front and rear, with no rubber seals, under very little pressure. I'm seeing 0.3 - 0.5J out of it with the stock barrel. Adding a hop isn't an attempt to make it skirmishable, it really is just out of interest to see if it can be bodged in. Chances are I'll go back to the original barrel, pre-load the barrel spring, and grease the heck out of all the mating surfaces since I won't have to worry about contaminating a hop bucking.

Well, rather to my surprise, that does actually appear to have an effect. Even at 6m garage ranges, there looks to be an upwards trajectory, although not hugely consistent. The BB nestles in the "hop" and needs some pressure to be pressed or blown through. Sure, the power is down to 0.2J, i.e. essentially spitball energies - there's just not enough puff or air seal there to make it viable. But the principle seems sound enough. Who'd have guessed?

Hmm, I seem to be seeing a lot[1] of folk reporting "Warhead crapped out, but Ben@KO-Technologies is very sympathetic." A bit like how Acetech were OK about replacing my Lighter-S, but now the replacement is in bits on my Workbench of Perpetual Prevarication awaiting complete resoldering. At Warhead prices I'd be hoping for better results than being a beta tester, no matter how good the support. But such is airsoft, and being at the bleeding edge[2] of the performance envelope. [1] Two? Three? [2] i.e. about a decade behind RC.

Rather illustrating my point there, chap. At the sites I've played which allow DMRs, the rules are either "1 shot per 2 seconds", or "1 in the air", which at DMR ranges effectively means a shot about every two seconds. You're baulking at limiting yourself to four times that fire rate. Sites are just kidding themselves about DMRs.

I'm going to be brutally honest, I reckon I can see where the parts should go, but is this relationship worth putting the work in? I mean, really, how much commitment are we both feeling here?

"Dear Diedre, I necked two bottles of crème de menthe at my sister's wedding, one thing led to another, and somehow I woke up as the support beam in an Uncle Bob and Cousin Ralph Eiffel Tower. Which one should I marry?" Sorry, chap, I can't find anything like an internal diagram for that. I'm vaguely aware that these things exist and shoot at a claimed 0.1J or so. I want to say... UHC UM-651? I'm coming up blank.

Wait, are you saying that my 12 year old car with a full(ish) service history and covers on the seats isn't worth more than a brand new one? Do one, mate, I know what I've spent, and I know what it's worth all day long.

Is the correct answer, and the one that should, all joking aside, be applied to "my Chinesium green laser is totally safe to shine in your eyes" claims.

I'll try this version out first. The barrel can just be held in place while firing, so trial and error tuning should be viable.

With 20-20 hindsight, this edge is too sharp, and will need ramped and redone. But otherwise I think the principle is sound, and by packing with slivers of electrical tape or similar on top I should be able to tune in some sort of hop effect.

But if you're choosing paintball over airsoft, are you really fighting to preserve anything worthwhile?

M3 x 3mm is the smallest grub screw that I have, and it looks to be just a little too long. Still, worse case I can just plug the hole so never say never.

Airsoft and RC disagree on Tamiya connector polarity, and as XT60 is mostly an RC thing I'd expect any converter to be RC wired. Yup. Oh, we covered that here, all you need to swap Tamiya terminals is a very small flat-blade screwdriver or some other way to squish the connector tabs in.

I don't think there's quite enough space for that, although ideally I'll want some sort of adjustment there. For now, I've just gone with s-hopping the AEG barrel. Can't find my RTV, but I did rustle up some Sugrutm. Potatocam pics follow. I'll see how this works out. I might want to take more material off the flat section and replace it with sugru to create more lovely rubbery integrity.

100% agree. Spring change: M150 / 100N / Rapax 2J, be prepared to cut a few links or maybe buy some Rapax spacers to fine tune. Feed it something over 0.4g, and enjoy. Headshots centre mass all day long.

Verrrrry site and style dependent. Indoors CQB, I can shoot as few as a few hundred in a day, generally 0.2g. Outdoors sniping maybe 100-200 0.43g+ sniper shots and 500-1000 secondary BBs in 0.25g or 0.28g (I run an MP5K). Outdoor with a carbine, 1000-2000 of 0.28g, usually towards the lower end, but I'm a believer in aimed shots rather than... "Support gunners" can get through a lot, lot more.

Probably not do-able. It would have to be on the unit itself, and even an M3 x 3mm looks like it would project too far. It'll have to be fixed, and hope for the best. [UPDATE] Oh, on disassembly, the barrel actually has a flat (badly) milled or filed or chewed along the top surface. Here is is (top) beside a spare MP5K (?) AEG barrel. I'll start by putting a matching flat and circlip notch into that, and doing an s-hop patch for the window. If that results in spilled guts instead of glory then I can move on to wrecking the revolver barrel itself.

I'd want to keep the hop as far back as possible, since (in my imagination) you'd want to spin the BB up at the start of its linear acceleration, rather than putting an obstruction in while it's already moving. This is for an HFC HG-132 4" barrel green gas revolver which is already super weak. Also, there's not much barrel there to begin with. Dremel, needle files, and a devil-may-care attitude will be my allies. Oh, now I like that idea. Simpler and safer to centre-punch and drill a hole than to cut a slot, and it could be gradually enlarged until I run out of nerve. The actual rubbery bit I'd do with RTV silicon gasket maker. Put a silicone-oiled 5.5mm drill bit into the bottom of the barrel. Spooge RTV into the hole, and remove most but not all of the excess on the outside. Ideally leaving something like this (not to scale, or connected to achievable reality) Sadly not. The whole barrel moves forward to let the cylinder rotate, then back again to "seal" against the shellazines. Any hop would have to be entirely self contained on the barrel itself. Since we're doing nudey-pics, these are all the components that I have to work with, and where I reckon I could put a hole. The mark in front of it is an indexing indentation for the plastic sleeve/nozzle. As an alternative, I could dremel or file that all the way through into the barrel and spooge in there.

Or: why paintball, when airsoft is a thing? Do they think they wouldn't call their hits? I thought the Russkis were the baddies.

The barrel is intact with no window. It moves back and forth, so anything TDCish is out. Significant parts are a circlip against which the spring pushes, the sleeve / nozzle on the right hand side here which nestles into the (revolver) cylinder, and a keying ridge on top. I can't actually see any point to this at the moment since there's no hop, so it doesn't matter if it rotates. I'd need to retain that to keep it orientated. What I'm imagining is that I could remove the nozzle sleeve and cut a window in the barrel and s-hop it. I.e. put a 6mm drill bit inside to fill the barrel and gloop some silicone in to fill the window, leaving a slight bulge on top, which would then push the silicone into the barrel when the nozzle sleeve is put back in place. Obviously, it would need "tuned" by sizing the bulge on top. Waste of time, or an idea whose time has come?

You are, I'm sure Gun Jesus would love it.

Could be some splatgunz got in with those fUlLy lOaDeD OuT PlAtE CaRrIeRs that folks were mad keen on donating. But, yes, journos.