Rogerborg

FTFY. Gentlemen, this is peak performance. Y U NO puttee tho?

Ye can wi' a Cannae Drive. Given the entirely imaginary results from it, I suspect that it's based on Tokyo Marui technology.

Now, that makes sense: you always hunt the whales first. I get that brushless performance is great, but 11.1V and <£30 of Big Dragon grinds my gears as fast as I'd care to risk them. Bench tests might be satisfying, but the marginal extra field performance from brushless just isn't compelling for me at this point.

That's actually a good sign, as it suggests that it's usable rather than "upgraded" until it just sprays BBs all over the place for 30 feet. And he can't give it the traditional "only fired a few test shots" spiel as the Aster will rat him out.

It is frustrating, and the first manufacturer to start shipping airsoft form factor brushless motors for a less eye watering price is going to clean up. Systema are working on a gearbox with an integrated brushless motor, which looks great. But Systemas have always been niche, and their reliability is somewhat of a running joke. https://thereptilehouseblog.com/2021/01/24/systema-ptw-2021-update-infinity-variant/

W - ⚓- 🔫 Eh. The motor (or "mortors") I buy cost about the same as a game day. Given how much of the junk we buy just sits around essentially unused, dying in the line of pew-ty is the heroic way to go.

I reckon so, that looks like another "everything I've spent on it, plus my time" pricing. Highlights: "barrel has been lapped 5 micron". That's 0.005mm, folks, in a barrel that's maybe only accurate to 0.1mm as stock, if you're really lucky. "custom 22tpa neodymium motor". Custom motor? Like, hewn from solid neodymium by magical dwarves? 13:1 gears + a weighted piston because, well, I guess Reddit seddit. Yup, that fits.

Welcome to airsoft. And I cannot über-emphasise the importance of playing several times before spanking mortgage payments on airsoft toys. The actual experience of playing - once the adrenaline rush wears off - isn't for everyone, and you'll never see that money back.

Oh, I wish. But we've seen this over and over because of Jurassic age sites still saying "350fps lol eVeRy1 NoWs WuT tHaT mEeNs lol". And as just ranted in other threads, there are plenty of "DMR" players semi-spamming at up to 1.88J (and the rest), and that's if they're even semi-locked at all. I've only been asked, once, and never required to demonstrate it. At this point, I'm honestly wondering why I don't just go out there spamming 2J+ on full auto because there's essentially no sanction for it at any woodland site that I've played at.

That's reasonable, I switch around guns a lot, and (in woodland with a reasonable amount of cover) an AEG bursting 0.28g bang on the site limit with a 3x42 sight probably is the winr8 sweet spot. However, if I semi-spammed 0.32g+ out of my scoped DMR (and with 11.1V and a meaty motor, I could), I'd be like unto a god. I'm tempted to try it, but then I'd be no better than the folk already doing that.

AB++, Warfet, or anything optical will give you safe / semi / burst-or-auto. I'm not sure if the optical units can do safe / semi-or-burst / full auto, that's beyond my functionality and price-range of interest. Hopefully someone's butler might clear that up for us.

Hmm, that is interesting stuff, although as with all things airsoft, it's a miracle when the stars line up and these over-priced toys shoot at all. Generally speaking all you need them to do is to shoot semi auto as soon as possible after pulling the trigger, which is what pre-cock does. And then to fire as fast as possible between shots in "auto" mode, whether that's an unlimited burst, or an X-round one. But that's more of an issue for the battery and motor than the mosfet, which really just needs to get out of the way of the current flow as much as possible. Multiple modes would be nice for switching between sites or even games, but it only takes a few minutes to reprogram an AB++, including getting to it to push the magic button. I get the technical appeal of knowing exactly how your electrics are performing. In game though, actual performance is largely down to human reaction times in CQB, or not being seen in woodland. Gun go brrrt, fun is had.

Good question. I've very happy with my AB++, and I can't think of anything else that I'd need it to do. Active Braking or pre-cock, 2-5 round bursts, ROF reduction, DMR delay, low battery alarm. Binary trigger is the only thing missing, but that's for wanker-guns. I might eventually go optical on my MP5K, but only because the trigger has mechanical issues that an optical mosfet could ameliorate, not for any extra features.

Here's an SHS hop unit for illustration purposes only, the Specna is similar. It's under the hop arm. The arm presses down on the nub, which pressed on the bucking. You'll generally want to remove the hop arm, and the nub, before putting the barrel and bucking in or out, then replace the nub, and then the hop arm on top of it. If you've pulled the barrel and bucking out without realising that the nub was sitting on top of it, it might still be in there, or it might have dropped out and vanished into hyperspace. If it's all back together now, I'd get the hop arm out and see if the nub is still in there. There's a pin running side-to-side that the arm rotates on, you just push it out then the arm will lift up and out. A typical nub is just a little cylinder of rubber, it might be solid, or more often hollow. If you have lost the nub, then the traditional bodge is to cut a piece of biro tube, or a section of insulated wire (18g or 16g), or just the insulation from the wire. Essentially anything round that will fit inside the C section on the end of the hop arm, with a little give in it. However, I mention the "flat hop" style nub because your Specna may have a flat-hop bucking with no internal mound. If so, then a regular cylindrical nub won't put enough pressure on it to hop anything. None of this is a concern if you're replacing the bucking with a Maple Leaf: they're great buckings and pretty tolerant of nubs. You can throw just about any nub in there and it'll work, whether it's a standard round, Maple Leaf Omega, H-nub or just about anything else you fancy.

1000% agree. Particularly annoying as I do stick to one-in-the-air, which for DMR ranges means a shot about every 2 seconds, not two or three rounds a second, as far, far too many DMR players do. Yes, I've reminded other players, yes, I've brought it up with marshals many times, yes, I've pointed out the worst culprits on my own team, but I've never seen anything done about it, at any site, ever, beyond an occasional token reminder at the next brief. One site toyed with the idea of different coloured chrono tags (not that those ever get checked anyway), or tape around the muzzle, but never followed through. Me, I'd just bin them off completely, and I say that as an occasional DMR player. POW airsoft has already done so, and I agree with them on that. If I ever wanted to "win" at airsoft, I'd go out with my 1.8J+ DMR and spam the hell out of it. At the very most, I might have to say "Sorry, mate, my bad mate, I forgot, mate" once in a blue moon.

It is, all Specnas come with an M90 and an M120. You'll want that M90 back in, or buy an M100. There's very little use for an M120 in the UK unless it's for a DMR at a site with a low power limit, or if you're removing teeth and reducing cylinder volume. Normally I'd agree with using a Maple Leaf omega nub with a Maple Leaf bucking, but you may have a flat hop as stock in your Specna. If your bucking looks like this, it actually works quite well with a Maple Leaf hop. However, it's likely to over-hop 0.2g. I'd suggest 0.28g for woodland. However, I'd urge you to play with it unmeddled first (with the M90 spring) before doing anything to it, if only to get a baseline of its performance. A lot of airsoft "upgrades" can be sidegrades or downgrades if the parts don't work well together or you get a QC reject.

The Commissar's faith was weak, he took a bleeder on the lip. Then his borrowed face guard protec. It's like some beautiful dream. Great structures and cover too. It's like some recurring nightmare. Way too much of this at way too many sites. Punters who don't want to play, marshals who don't want to marshal, site owners/runners who are mostly there to banter. Take up fishing instead.

That's TM power, therefore best power. £90 delivered seems fair enough, mind.

Another decent day at the small-but-perfectly-formed Area-66, at its 1st birthday celebration. Yes, cake was had. I'm now a confirmed fan of woodland sites that are less walk, more rock. More decent whiteboard briefings, and generally fair and good natured play. More marshals this weekend, but still too laissez-faire for my tastes. The usual delays caused by a couple of teams of Banter Buddies who only started bombing up when those of us there to actually play airsoft were heading out to game start. Hanging's too good for them. Chuckles when we had a bloke with a 40K Commissar hat and chainsword as a VIP. I'm currently waxing my helmet (not a euphemism) preparatory to wearing my Cadian kit next weekend. Let's make dying for the Emperor great again.

We know that PatrolBase is pretty optimistic about flogging completely non-functional guns for more than sweetie money, but it's just occurred to me: given that they're actually marketing them as "wall hangers", why would the defence for selling them for airsoft skirmishing apply? 🤔

If you can find a copper or prosecutor who even knows the law on RIFs, let alone cares about it, between now and the heat death of the universe, I'll eat my 2nd best helmet.

Hubble just spotted one.

He's off slacking at the moment, UK airsoft fettling is grinding to a halt. Also... I couldn't resist.

That's fairly common if you're trying to spam the trigger in semi. For now, just try to make more deliberate trigger pulls. There's nothing (as stock) to complete the cycle once the trigger contacts are broken, so it can stop in an awkward place. The Gate-XASR in the Specnas is just there for trigger contact protection, it's not up to much - mine craps out with a stronger motor. A meatier battery and motor will cycle it quicker so it's less of an issue. Although see above for my issue with that. Sure, or the Perun AB++ mosfet. There are some cheaper mosfets that only do active braking that should let you use 11.1V, but a Warfet, Aster or Titan, or an AB++, will add some nice features like programmable bursts.