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It's hard to message when your knuckles are sore from being dragged along the floor all day long.

Most of 2023's purchases.

Marushin Nambu Type 14

Some of mine

Ok - I get it now. Slapped into one of my guns (ICS M4, Stock 18:1 gears, Perun Hybrid with AB disabled). No modifications needed - straight drop-in. Impressive. Most Impressive. Been spamming the trigger fairly hard on an 11.1v for giggles and the motor is cold, as is the wiring and the battery. Performance on 7.4 and 11.1 is fairly similar in Semi. Can't comment on long term reliability (obvs), but as a drop-in upgrade for a bone stock gun, it certainly seems to give a trigger responsiveness and ROF performance that will keep 95% of players very happy.

Yeah it's not a new film & I've seen it many times, but netflix'd it tonight... I either need a sea mine or therapy... "I has for this un."

S&T - FG42, SKS, SVT-40 (all AEG booooo) SVT has been known about for a while iirc but maker was unknown..

Yarp👍

For me that’s how a G3 should look like, not all that other fancy modern stuff 😉 The G3 was my service rifle back in the Cold War and it looked just like that one. Now if the recoil could give you bruises then you are on to a proper replica! You should get a long leather sling to go with it. Can’t remember how it attached to the top of the hand guard though.

Thanks but Hertfordshire to Scotland is a bit too much of a commute😁 I know most sites can fill them but I know a few can't so I just want other options

Moa MOA goodness

250mm for the inner barrel right up to the end of the outer. GM 3.5 nozzle, but take the seal off the back of the stock nozzle (GM rear seal isn't compatible with DE BCG) for being able to fit an NPAS - NPAS doesn't fit in stock DE nozzle. Jaeger or FEDA for NPAS - former is easier to get hold of in the UK, latter has some QC issues as of late. Bavtac/Jaeger nubs aren't compatible with DE hop arm, unless you want to overhop .48's with no hop applied ofc. MR hop rubbers contact patch get eaten by the nozzle on both stock and GM, so something flamingo or similar (which is a bugger as flamingo are flimsy). Did it have a black or silver BCG? If its black (V2), the mags are good, if its silver (V1) you'll want to get something else.

Nice little AEG for the price. I wasn't happy with the battery space so made a longer handguard.

Some folks were curious as to how I did it, so here is a how to :). Materials I used: S&T Spring Remington 870 35mmx20mm steel box section. I used 3mm thick stock. Random barrel mount from an M203 3 M6 x 10 countersunk machine screws 2 M6 x 25 countersunk machine screws 5 x m6 nylon bolt and washers. Tools used : Kentucky Measure (eyes) Pillar Drill, Hand and bench grinder, Various Vices, Vernier Caliper, Dremel, Hand files Tap & Die, Permanent marker, Club hammer, 45mm diameter steel pipe, Ignorance. 3ml of my own blood. Tools I should of also used : Centre punch, Tape measure, THE RULER ON MY VERNIER CALIPERS. Firstly, I obtained some source material from the Google. and then placed my rifle, barrel mount, steel box section, and destocked shotgun on the bench. After about 20 minutes of staring at it, making thoughtful noises, looking at the source material, I decided to make a start. Let's start with the big issue. The shotgun. The S&T 870s are single shot pump actions based on the Maruzen CA870, much like the G&P Wingmaster line... so much like it's identical. I mean, carbon copy identical. However, the S&T is not a smooth action out of the box. It's got sticky points and notches everywhere, the action over-extends causing the right side pump arm to disengage and jam, and lubricant was clearly lacking. Dealing with the action was a simple strip and clean, cleaning up any burrs on edges, or casting lines (of which, there were many!) in the areas where friction is a thing, cleaning up the edges of both pump arms with a file, and finally a polish of the metal surfaces where the pump arms slide in the rails of the cast chassis. I also took the time to modify the inner barrel and hop chamber, it now runs a VSR bucking. After reassembling, it's as silky smooth and easy to rack as my old G&P, and can lift a .32 with ease. So it's definitely suitable to mount. Action still over extending though - we will come back to this. The receiver shell ended up straight on the Pillar Drill for mounting holes. I ended up drilling and countersinking a total of 5 holes. 2 for the barrel mount, and 3 to spread the rest of the shotguns mass along the chassis. All 5 holes and fittings are not pictured as it was done at the end of the process. The rearward machine screw corrospondes to the barrel mounts rear screw orifice. Front hole countersink was done with an unusual but required approach. Onto the receiver chassis! more marker pen followed by using the Vernier calipers to edge my 'measurement', and off to the vice and grinder! First, off with stock fitment followed by material from the top of the chassis to make space for the machine screw heads. Despite the countersinking in the reciever shell, I also wanted to fit a steel insert between the chassis and shell with holes and countersinks to mate to the reciever shells, again to spread the load as evenly as possible. So accounted for this during loud grindy times with a medium grit bench grinder. Always wear eye protection!! Due to how the chassis fits into the reciever shell, the 'bump' at the rear needed to be ground down further towards the back end than i had initially done. So a bit of trial and fit and trial and fit was in order, made worse by my choice to reinforce the fitment with the steel insert. Minor adjustments made with more permanent marker and a dremel. Once enough material had been removed the chassis snugly slides in and out of the shell as it should, with no excess play, with the steel plate and machine screws in place. (This was the point the 5th fitment was decided upon, but this was a 20 second job and worth doing!). Now, those who are still with us - the mounting rail!! Let's start with cutting out material for the barrel mount. Permanent marker and Verniers to action, marked and etched, followed by a disgustingly convenient find of a jig from an old project that needed zero adjustment to achieve both cuts - it was meant to be! A quick clean up of the edges with a file followed by some tappy taps with the hammer to profile those edges in toward the mount slightly. After offering up the mounts chassis I marked the locations of handgaurd cap, bayonet lug, and sling swivel, and transfered those marks using a square, making sure to account for the rearward fitting motion of the mount as I wasn't bothering cutting out the top of the chassis on my first attempt making one. mock fitting prior to the Great Ignorant Beating, as wecan see, shotgun reciever has a curve. My box section does not. Long story short, dismantled the assembly, made a holding jig, and a spacing /centering jig, placed the rail in the holding jig, then on goes the centering jig, filled with a steel pipe with a 45mm diameter. I proceeded to smash the b***ocks out of it with a club hammer until I had achieved the desired profile. - this is something I'll do differently come the MK2 version 😅 Finally, drilling the holes in the chassis rail to corrospond with the shotguns reciever holes. Chassis fitments holes were tapped, and then everything cleaned in prep for a good application of hammering in a can. Once dry , the reciever shell was fitted to the rail and barrel mount. Washers and nylon thread nuts applied. Cutting down the barrel and ammo tube is pretty self explanatory. But the pump needed cutting down and a new recess cut out at the front for the ammo tube support ring. By combining my brain and my hands I was able to feel out the exact moment the action was at full forward extension without over extending. I marked the required location of the ammo tube support on the outer barrel, drilled and tapped fitment holes I then modified the pump handle accordingly, removing just right amount of material to allow the action to be tighter then a really tight thing with a tight schedule on a busy day. No more over extension of the action as its not physically possible without smashing the ammo tube support off (or proper dismantling procedure). I will soon begin a mk 2 chassis, where I actually use a tape measure, get the internal curvature done in a proper manner, and open the chassis rails top surface up to make it lighter, as well as get access to the shotguns hop unit 😅 In my defence I was excited and impatient. Thanks for reading. Enjoy. G&P Prime M653 GBB G&P M4A1 Prime GBB

💪🏻

Same homebrew masterkey on an M4A1

Alright - let's see what all the fuss is about...

Just bought myself something new that's old - a 1968 Norton P11. Because I've basically always wanted to be Clint Eastwood.

I fucking told the garage I worked at that I had a nut allergy. They still sacked me when all the wheels fell off.

I've tried it, it was shite, tbh most of the others aren't much better, even tried the WhatsApp groups recently, gave up & cancelled them too. At least here, & even zin (when it's working), you message someone & get a response pretty quickly, & most members are able to articulate about what they're selling, not just textspeak & grunts lol. 🙈🙉🙊

Never have i joined a forum and felt so at home so quickly. I mean.. uhh.. that's weird, dude.. 😬

My Umarex / WE GBBR. Shoots very well, has a loud crack and a decent recoil , capable of massivly over hopping .30's on the stock setup.. As with the rest of my WE GBBRs I've not had a single issue with it.

Tm ngrs AKSU

Ghk M4 TM ngrs 416 (and a cheeky little Torrey Pines thermal)