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2 identical aeg's for testing, one with a 3/4 and other with a closed, same hop, same rubber. I imagine many people will disagree but it's just my observation. Maybe it's down to the super tightness of the barrels I was testing, most around 6.01 +/- 0.01. I didn't get too technical for linear relationships and curves, if it flies straight and long I'm happy. I should have 6.03 / 6.04 stock in soon so will be interesting to see what they're like. Ultimately the shorter barrels just seemed to give me a lot less grief. When testing when I come across ones which I'm not happy with I just put them to one side, I bore-scope them to see what might cause the curve but I can never find what it is. I've been refining the process over the past 6 months, I'm a little sick of it tbh as it's a lot of extra work in deburring and polishing. I won't be doing this when the new barrels come in thankfully.

Ollie has popped up with another video on his Green Goblin build With a health update a few minutes before the end of the video. Good to see that the fella is looking healthy

You know, not everything is a conspiracy to rip off consumers.

This is the parent company of Warhead Industries: https://www.ko-technologies.com/ both they and Warhead are pretty open about how they OEM for lots of other people. It's ENTIRELY possible that a lot of other brushless AEG motors are being made by them but in no way does that mean they are the same.

WGCShop order with a bunch of nice AK bits arrived today - and despite the dreaded RM email about customs charges it seems I've got lucky and might've dodged them. Before: After: Absolutely made up - everything fits & really makes this thing look amazing now. The new pistol grip is such a massive improvement over the standard and having the choice between the DTK-4 suppressor and DTK-2 muzzlebreak makes the lizard brain happy. Can't wait to field on Sunday!

Considering what's going on inside him, he looks really good.

I was going to write a wall of text to respond and debunk, but... If a long barrel is betterer than a short barrel, then explain the Mk23...

Razor or UH-1 ? Cat was somewhat interested too

Assuming that the OP is from Hong Kong or Vietnam, he should not have a problem; I have a couple of students from Hong Kong who have brought kit over after returning home for a holiday.

As everyone has said it should be fine, anyone can own pc's etc. BUT I'm gonna say something contentious that not everyone may like, but it has to be considered. You haven't said where your coming from, home country or ethnic origin, & Unfortunately some government agencies have been known to use racial profiling as a tool to essentially narrow down their search process in the "fight against terror". In that respect, should you tick any of the stereotypical boxes they look at, as someone here on a student visa, it would crap if some over eager civil servant spots the "military vest", & misconstrued it's purpose. If you felt this was feasible, might be better to mail the vest to your UK address & avoid any unpleasantness. On the flip side, probably like many here I like to use certain brands in daily life, whether it's clothing or luggage etc, when travelling to certain countries I've been inclined to tone down my attire, turn up looking like a poster model for 5.11 etc & you may get mistaken for something your not. It's a worldwide problem, but all we wanna do is pew pew lol.

Oh dear.

Huge respect for him.

Beercan shim is best shim.

AK-104 with other barrel assembly swap, to imitate AK-103.

Got to be the UH-1 on that build for me. Picked up a new stock to further stubbify my stubby AR build. The steel bolt feels like it’ll dislodge fillings with the extra compression the the short buffer tube gives the recoil spring!

Is it the scopes or the chinesium Picatinny rails on the guns themselves ?

OK - drink the koolaid if you like.

custom gbb workshop IDF colt car15 with M203 WE V3 gbb airsoft deep marking remove original paint Receiver color grey stock 2nd generation detail fix

Hopefully you'll have them in long boi lengths ?

you read right ? 260 to 300 seemed the sweet spot. Of course this is my own testing, the longer ones still performed well but just not as good as the shorter ones.

Probably because there is less "length" to go wrong compared to a longer one. In the wall of text I deleted I mentioned how my 5" M4 is way more consistent than it was with a 10" barrel, essentially achieving the same, if not slightly more range. And the 5" is just a cut down and recrowned Guarder barrel I had while the 10" is a prommy 6.05...

this is just from my own research in my own particular case. I've got hundreds of identical polished new barrels, polished to RA 0.5, all different lengths from 128 to 500 - same bore size. Have tested about 400 so far and one clear observation is that the shorter ones are more accurate.

I was really surprised by this when I returned to airsoft after a long break. When I first started everyone ran .2 or .25 if they were posh. The best sniper ammo was Maruzen SGMs at 0.29. Now plenty of people seem to run 0.3g+ in regular rifles. I think a large part of this is that hops have just got loads better, so they can comfortably lift heavy BBs without a huge drop in power.

It’s actually very common to factor in for pricing on the basis of “how much will the market bear” As mentioned when pricing an item there two sets of initial costs (design, tooling and development) and the production costs (materials, energy consumed, production line staff) These mean you have an initial cost per item (the actual cost per item plus initial outlay to recoup apportioned across an estimated amount to be produced There are other overheads to take into account of generally running the business If you put together those costs that need to be recouped, and then a basic percentage on top to make it worth doing then you have a starting price. Would anyone buy it at that price? This is where you can flex up/down based on what someone might spend. £p per shot is an indicator that the prospective buyer could be comparing in the shop They also may be looking at the total cost of a purchase - if all are sold in the same quantity then this still reflects £p per shot. But if you offer other quantities you can influence a little ….. x BB might cost more than y BB per shot, but a bag of 3/4 the quantity can compensate against that - pay more per BB but less per purchase When it comes to what ought to be a more consistent : accurate BB the customer might think differently and work out their £p per elimination, with x BB cheaper per shot but flying in circles with every BB per burst missing the target There is also a bit of psychology to be had as well. Price up three BBs: x BB is low priced y BB costs a bit more z BB is higher and looks excessively priced against x BB Let’s say that they are all the same BB from the same factory with just a different label and price Hardly anyone is going to be a cheapskate with x BB, just those who have to count the pennies or plan to just pray and spray Some will consider themselves special with fine tuned consistent RIFs that deserve the best and pay the premium of z BB Most will stick to the middle option of y BB, they aren’t cheapskates and aren’t so flush to splash out, they will go for the one that’s inbetween (The Goldilocks principle) Just by looking at the price the assumption is that one is cheaper and lesser quality, another is more premium and the middle one must be ‘just right’ This perception is that there is a reason for the price ranges, whereas in the theoretical piece it’s only for the perception If you really do have a difference (weight and / or production quality) then the materials and the equipment can make a difference in the item cost, but it still has to stand on whether people will pay that (the market bears the price) You could have a set quality level and and efficient process resulting in cheap costs - but price purely based on a percentage uplift to that would result in a cheap retail price - and customers could dismiss it as too cheap. If you’re lucky enough to be in that position you can bump up the price and profit, giving you more leeway for items that end up with a tighter margin to keep within a price that buyers will be willing to pay

For target shooting at home you don’t need any of the VCRA defences - a brightly coloured IF will shoot as well as if it were a RIF. Bright IFs can be anything from a cheap BB shooter to a bells & whistles airsoft gun with a paint job

I’ve copied this from one of the TM Discord servers. Ollie is still putting up the good fight

Lonex hop unit, No idea about them. The stock plastic units are fine. Maple leaf hop rubber - I can't comment on that either. We have 350fps and cold weather here in the UK. So soft 50deg rubbers are generally more our thing. I'd run the stock rubber and hop unit till it breaks. https://www.evike.com/products/31081/ ASG mags - No issues there. You can get the MAG 170rnd ones from Evike. There my absolute favourite AUG mag. Good capacity, no winding, no rattle. If you can afford it then I would always recommend those mags. Equally the King Arms and ASG 110rnd mags are good options as well if you hate rattle. https://www.evike.com/products/31490/ Matrix spring - no idea, It's not a branding we see over here. Madbull Python 6.03 - Avoid Avoid Avoid. The barrel is too wide for an AUG's inner sleeve and will bind up causing all sorts of issues. The ZCI ones are spot on if you can find them. All of my AUGs use them. The other brands I have no idea about as the ZCI's have always been on point. https://www.evike.com/products/11878/ ASG AUG - It's an ASG sportline by the looks. Identical to the JG but with the added trades. Metal bushing, Basic motor, QC spring. Absolutely solid as a basic gun or upgrade gun. The JG may or may not have a QC spring depending on how old the stock is. With the ASG one having it in the description I would go that way. I wouldn't upgrade anything for the first few games on it. Get a feel for it first and work out what you need to do. If you go with the big batteries I've linked lower down be aware that the inline fuse may have difficulties as you can see a lot of current draw. So It may be worth adding some bigger fuses to the order. Or have a plan to bypass the fuse if it starts to glow. I'd run it on a 7.4v big lipo. 2200mAh. I Know I can fit a battery 103.6 x 34 x 15.5mm into mine no trouble. 101.1 x 35.5 x 16.1mm also fit and work. You may have to modify the bottom of the gearbox plate to remove a plastic part that sticks out (2 mins with a dremel). I would also convert to deans as mini tamiya connectors are crap. I'll link a battery that will work, but 20/40c is pretty low for these. Giant power over here do a 35/70c 5c charge model that is my preferred battery. If you are wanting 11.1v then you need to speak to someone else as I don't own any - It may also be worth talking to your local gamers as you may need 11.1v for your power levels. https://www.evike.com/products/47743/ Motor is not something I can't advise on. Nor gears, As you run different power levels, So what I know won't translate to what you need. For UK power levels 350 fps, I tend to find AUG's will run hot on standard spring configurations if you get the seals right. I think mine are running cut M110's but it's been a while since I had them open.