Leaderboard

well, for real steel, stamped steel and mag in grip, there dont appear to be many options. a couple that meet your requirements; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sa_vz._23 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Socimi_Type_821 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SR-2_Veresk https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Saab_Bofors_Dynamics_CBJ-MS https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PP-90 but if you drop the requirement for the mag in the grip, there are a few other options: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAT-49 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MAS-38 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatimatic https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agram_2000 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Walther_MP

exactly what @Sitting Duck says, don't throw too much money on it. Those micro-switches ain't the greatest so if you can fit a basic fet on one (think I saw a guide to fitting one somewhere). You have to open it up first to see what the issue is first.. I think I've got an old factory deformed stock tube somewhere together with an old stock that you can have for the price of p+p. I'll check around.

Hi all, Yes, you've probably all heard of Negative Airsoft but I just want to add my voice to the chorus. He received my TM Glock 17 and could've charged me for the hop rubber we spoke about changing but he informed me it was shooting great and hopping 0.28s nicely and didn't need it changing so that was that. He only spent 15 mins so far cleaning it etc and said would I like stippling or something else to get my money's worth. I said yes, and I'm really pleased with the result. A nice, digicam style was done. His communication was excellent throughout and he's a real top bloke. I'll be coming back to him for more work in the future.

Well they said 2020 and they didn’t lie, only just (will probably be a few months more till we see them here in the UK though). I believe this rifle is a springer as well which is nice to see. with this and the G&G No4 on the horizon it’s great to finally see some Enfield rifles on the Airsoft market place.

You literarily stated in your opening post you had access to a 3d printer "So I have a whole bunch of aep parts and a friend with a 3d printer"

Thanks for the help I’ve got, I just received my new garden plinker not as fun as the kriss defiance DMK22, but I can’t use that in my garden im sure I’ll be upgrading it, I already want a few co2 mags and a bigger nozzle, I want the FPS as high as legally possible to give better accuracy as I’m not firing at any people

Ive vaugely been doodling some cyberpunk style pistols that would fit the gearbox. Thing is aeps are cheap. I can always build both. and Right now im going heavy into russian kit so the versek makes sense Im mainly looking to have something holsterable hence the mag in the grip requirement.

You mean a minebea? 😆 aka the anime uzi Looking through that its beginning to like like Ill have to bite the bullet and build the versek

Fitted the Magpul trigger guard. Just a little bit of filing was needed. Word of advice use the original Marui trigger guard pin as the Magpul one looks a little thicker. Don’t risk cracking the trigger guard pin lugs ok.

Look on ebay. There are lots of radios on there and to be honest they are not expensive at all.👍 Regards

i mean that is the one thing every WE i've met is incapable of......

It's trying to go from a standing start, potentially under load (depending how far it rolls past cutoff) A very approximate analogy is why your car wont pull away from parked in 5th gear, but once up to speed it's fine. Batteries have 3 main ratings: Voltage (7.4v, 11.1v etc) more volts = more oomph so it'll spin everything faster. Think of this like the horsepower on your engine Capacity (800mah, 1200mah etc) expressed as milli amp-hours, more is always better because it'll last longer, but the trade off is generally a battery that is physically larger so might not fit in the gun. Think of this like the fuel tank on your car C rating (20c, 15c, 30c etc), this is an expression of the safe current draw a battery can do, the formula is you take your capacity in mah, divide by 1000 (converting to ah) then multiply by the c rating. More c rating is always good and much better to be over-specced (as the actual amp draw is what the motor tries to take), of course the downside is the battery will be more expensive. The car analogy is tricky but think of this like the fuel pump- the engine wants what it wants and you gotta feed it fuel fast enough. However, this is a stock gun and presuming the battery isn't worn out/got a dead cell (which will be noticable in every gun you use it in) then we can probably rule that out as the problem.

it doesn't - it is a case of getting the fucker cycling from still once it is running it will continue to cycle on full auto as the thing is running and yu are just keeping it - ergh running from still, especially precocked a little or a lot - yeah you got little or no chance of getting the bastid to move BUT - now on some ye olde v2's they have a copper plate across the selector and two prongs on switch that get bridged by the plate however - these two prongs lose some tension over time and the contact from selector plate is not quite 100% and the first point of contact is in semi - there is no contact in safe and this ye olde extra safety feature helped to ensure gun can not fire even if safety failed So no contact on safety, contact begins on semi & stronger contact is made on full auto yet it was not uncommon to see sporadic or not perfect bridging in semi and added to a gun struggling on semi Now your gun don't have these prongs/plate bollocks but some like cheapo Cyma's still have this crap Yet - though it shouldn't matter on semi or auto - when firing from still, partially pre-cocked (it is the fucking same shit - stationary gun trying to cycle on a weak lame motor...) you do seem to get marginal more success trying to fire a stalled gun in auto than in semi you really shouldn't all things considered - if the gun is stalled it is fucking stalled but on occasions the gun does seems to eventually cycle more in auto than in semi fuck knows why this is - could be a gun with prongs/plate has better contact though yours does not have this it could be the trigger is being an arse & not latching correctly or cut off bollox yet overall it SHOULDN'T really make a difference from stationary if the gun's stalled ergh it has stalled and semi/auto should be nigh on same meat different gravy when attempting to fire The reason why you don't wanna chuck loads of money into it is coz the switch, trigger, cut off lever, selector plate etc.. - all of this is fucking bespoke/weird shit you can't change the trigger, if the COL wears out being alloy over time - yeah a SHS one won't work the switch can be replace (often) if all that shit went tits up and you was looking to replace it all then there is the possibility and I say POSSIBLE option of gutting for a Perun Optical which would do away with a lot of the bespoke shit HOWEVER - this is a serious investment and likely not worth it unless you really wanted to keep the gun PLUS - I DO NOT KNOW FOR CERTAIN IF THE PERUN WOULD FIR IN THERE PERFECTLY OK I think it might - might need a bit of a mod but it is a possible option for desperate Nuprol owners to consider However only really sad owners might take the plunge of it working with a bit of work if they had trouble sourcing say COL **** ignore the above bollox about possible UNTESTED Perun upgrade **** It was more a case of explaining what a wank these boxes are if shit hits the fan and bespoke bits n bobs to source so you got a bit of a qwirky box to say the least - Nuprol ain't the only ones, TomTac boxes use micro switch bollox and some other makes did too, don't think it was early E&C's but some other might be ZCI and also Arcturas bollox use this crap too I think... http://wmasg.com/uploads/froala/images/articles/1/a018dd57c4c7aeca08b1210a68947c9c.jpg FFS - WHY DO SOME PICS POST & OTHER DON'T... though it looks ultra bespoke I do tend to think a perun Optical could be made to work in there with conventional trigger/selector plate perhaps - but still untested/gamble and certainly not fucking worth it coz it's a cheap shite knackered looking dog of a gun (with its own issues on top) anyway - the gun once stalled shouldn't matter if in semi/auto only firing in auto sometimes brings a little more success than semi - think you can just try like fuck without the COL/Trigger latch issue in auto than a better continuity thing with motor wiring crap WELL - you are getting there in the looks department

That's funny, my BF-888s were definitely not legal on the pre-programmed channels. The radios came with high-powered mode set as default, which can't be changed without the programming cable. I'm not even sure the low powered setting is actually below the limit either. Then there's the small issue of removable aerials. PMR446 units cannot have them (so as to not increase their range buy adding a larger one), so even if the power is within the legal PMR446 limits, they are illegal anyway. So, it comes down to the classic 'pick two out of three' scenario. - Cheap - Legal - Good Pick any two, but you can't have the third. So: Cheap and Legal - Binatone and other low-end guff. Unlikely to be good though. Cheap and Good - Baofeng, but it won't be legal. Legal and Good - Motorola and equivalents, but it won't be cheap. Just my 2p.

Baofeng BF-888 or Baofeng BF-88e are both UK legal PMR radios with pre-programmed channels. I've found them to be quite congested at some sights, and range is about 1/2km in dense woodlandi Ended up switching to licenced UV-5Rs after 6 months

Personally, I use either a Sig P226R or Glock 17 as a sidearm on a Warrier Assault Systems battle belt set up (left-handed because I'm awkward... And I've never actually used it, but largely play woodland sites as not many decent CQB sites near me I use the polymer WAS Pistol Fast-Mag holders, only pistol mag holder that I HAVEN'T lost a pistol mag from... Couple of guys on my team run drop leg holsters, and I can draw faster from a belt that is configured properly (pistol at 10(L)/2(R) o'clock depending on (L) eft or (R)ight handed) and some repetition drilling to get used to the set up

Functional is definitely the word. I have never understood why some people carry everything and the kitchen sink like they are going on a 3 week Op rather than 40 minutes of headless chicken firing into rooms and through windows. Is three mags overkill? Probably.

it should be QC spring but has them fucking odd bespoke bastid micro switches likely with a qwirky trigger dooberry that bends & relatches mofo shit jobs https://www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/nuprol-spare-part-m-series-replacement-trigger-airsoft-6mm-softair-nsp-dsp-009-30574-p.asp So it is advisable to ensure it has a mosfet in there or you will need to replace the microswitch sooner than later deans, slap some grease it it, check seals but likely weak motor is looking a little tired... with a tiny budget you could chuck in a cheap mosfet, deans, lube, seals etc... clean up the motor commutator with fibreglass pen etc... then due to mosfet - run it on 11.1v to get some zest and give it some welly on 11.1v to stop the motor stalling (admit you would deffo install mosfet on microswitch guns, clean up motor a tiny bit and invest on a lipo - poss 11.1v) unlikely you will blast past 20rps so no massive danger on lame arse motor until it finally croaks you could be looking at say £10 min if diy mosfet or say £20 if you buy a basic one like perun & bits n bobs plus LiPo battery or better battery of course YES you could change this and that - new motor & all that but that is throwing more money at it than perhaps it is worth in its present state (and it is a Nuprol with qwirky switch/trigger - well it is a Nuprol) with its possible micro switch dooberry bollocks - you do not wanna boost the juice as is atm Nuprol's get a LOT of flack - but their biggest weak point is that switch you will be replacing it often if you run on 9.6v or 11.1v due to arcing at contacts (you will then get ripped off with buying a NUPROL switch, which is just a std microswitch of same spec) if these companies put it a tiny bit more thought into the design/build - a £5 mosfet or 50p diode (perhaps) then the switches will last longer (especially micro switches - the hint is in the micro bit) Then put in a slightly better built motor - still ferrite to keep costs down but one that is assembled with better tolerances & efficiency, run it on 9.6v or 11.1v as it has mosfet/diode and everyone is happy but nope - they like most companies slap it all together in a Chinese sweat shop cutting corners and some shit is worse than others for durability but yeah in its present state you don't wanna go nutz on money/servicing/upgrading it just general basics and mosfet of some description I would look to maybe a schottky diode across motor but unsure how well the micro switch would hold up long term 11.1v But it is a bit of a mess atm ( no offence ) so really a cheap-skate bodge and re-slap it back together is probably all I'd do too or at least until it croaks a bit - then consider any options & stuff

when you say it would barely shoot do you mean she was struggling to cycle? in which case i'd start at the battery and work towards the motor as either the motor is too weak or it's not being fed enough juice. in terms of range/accuracy it's a multi step process, but a new hop rubber/nub to lift heavier ammo and some air seal work is gonna be your best bang for buck. that will mean cracking her open though.

sounds reasonable enough

Nice set up! Looks good and functional. If you fancy something else, I bought the cheapest hard plastic paddle holster on E-Bay for my 1911. It came marked IMI and is indistinguishable from the 'real' thing. TBH, I suspect that whoever IMI gets to produce them just sells a few as unbranded. If you get a selection of mounts, i.e. trouser belt, waistband, molle for a few quid a pop, you're sorted for loads of loadouts. IIRC holster plus mag pouch about £8, mounts £2 each.

Nah, I was a twat long before I was a rifleman 🖕😜

Wasnt that the impression you were trying to give us?

Yes. It was just under £200, so I'm interested to see how this goes. I'll post an update later this week.

I use Howard Leight Impacts for the ears. The comm plugs straight in and they are useful for RS if you have a .22. I used to use an earpiece but I took a shot from a sniper to the bit that fits in your ear. Being hollow it went with a hell of a bang. It seriously hurt volume wise, and set my tinnitus off something terrible! Few weeks later I took a direct hit to the earring. No damage but it stung like hell, hence the Impacts. With the 'phones on you need a strap or very flexible arms on your specs for comfort. Summer they bake your ears, so I use a separate mic on my webbing and a mesh mask that covers my lugs.

I’d say bollox to how you look and go with what you want to use that gives you the level of protection you want . Glasses yay or nay is a question that’ll never be settled, some players won’t wear them at all most do , I run sawflies with a mesh mask if I’m running a boonie or a ball cap and if I’m using a helmet then I usually use a full mandible shield attached to the helmet and the sawflies .

Baofeng 888. Good site radio. As @Speedbird_666says not legit without license but hey we have been running 4 of them for 5 years and have never had a prob. Regards

Best value? Baofeng. Legal?...umm...no. Doesn't stop lots of people buying them though. If you want a legit PMR446 radio, I'd say something from Motorola, perhaps the TKLR series.

Warrior holster fits the P226 like an absolute dream! And attaches pretty easily to the front of the mag pouches without much wobble (black bungee still to threaded through to keep it all feeling solid). Appreciate all the advice 👍

I play at 3 different CQB sites, at one paintball style masks are the norm, at another everyone wears bump helmets with goggles and masks, at the third the fashion is a baseball cap, goggles and some kind of soft lower face protection. I think it doesn’t really matter which you opt for as long as you look like you mean business are are there to take some names. And obviously that your eyes are protected. Agree about mesh goggles, I would advise against shooting glasses etc because Sod’s law is a bb and bits of shit will get underneath and still get in your eyes.

had a beard for as long as i could grow one proper, my face might be combat operator but sadly my gut somewhat spoils the effect

Yep, I can shoot lazer straight 100m with my 100000mm barrel.

Whatever fits the gun you wanna use tbh. Whats important is that the cylinder is volumed correctly for whatever the barrel length is, easiest way to make sure its still good is just dont change the barrel length significantly.

What started as a quest to unfuck a Novristch SSP1 has now turned into four separate Hi-capas... (4th is in pieces atm)

New to having a GBB, three of the four mags I have (bought it on the classifieds) fill, load, and feed really well (all WE). The TM mag that I presume is the one it was issued with seems to be leaking. When I fill it for 10-15 seconds it doesn’t seem to be taking any gas, and any longer than that just starts spraying out of the feed end (not quickly, I had to leave it to hiss away for about 10 minutes). It also doesn’t feed after the 10-15 second fill. Is this reparable/worth bothering with (considering I have other mags and if I ever need a fourth I’ll just get another WE for £20)?

This is my rifle. There are many like it, but this one is mine. Already on it’s Frankenstein path to greatness. Magpul stock Magpul trigger guard Geissele charging handle Waiting now on Hao Parts, scope and a good paint stripping

I have been on here a while, haven't post spammed and still get that message of i try to contact a seller through their advert.

Is that his little pet Nicco? For someone who makes a very big noise about being in 2 Rifles I can tell you that they have never heard of him... I would also query the kills/deaths markers that they include at the bottom of the videos. ‘Woah 33 kills and 1 death, this guy is the best airsofter that ever lived!’ I call bullshit. Very easy to edit out being shot up the arse with a G36 rental wielded by an 11 year old girl that weighs less than the RIF...

Might be worth checking to see if fatigues still fit and if belts etc need to be loosened.

Definitely agree that you should get it dirty first! More than anything, it sets a bar. Between Tackle, Davegolf, Adolfhamster and SittingDuck there’s no problem you can cause that they can’t diagnose and steer you toward a solution. YouTube wise, Negativeairsoft is worth a watch for UK velocity related advice. As I learned, our relatively low limits cause new headaches that other markets don’t have to worry about. The golden rule of teching is: Dont do anything until you’ve got a second gun in the boot of the car to resort to in the worst case scenario!

Wholeheartedly disagree with you there mate. Having a RIF is great fun, it looks cool and you can shoot your mates with it. You can’t do that with a real firearm. There is a reason why things like Sandy Hook don’t happen in this country, and it’s because any old knobhead can’t run round with a gun they bought at an indoor market with no checks or license or registration process.

I want that mug!

Having skimmed through it my take is the guy who put this together REALLY has an unhealthy fixation on the prick that is kicking mustang BUT equally he has shown KM is a false god , he’s proven categorically with the video clip that three of the shots clearly missed , the 3rd shot out of the four looks to me as if it may have ‘grazed’ the plate carrier but unlikely to have been heard or felt , but with the use of smoke and mirrors (the white ‘impact’ marker and the sound of a hit)he very successfully tricks the viewer in to thinking all four BBs hit the player there in making the player out to be a huge vile cheat and prick boy the Demi-god he promotes himself as . didn’t watch the rest for the sake of my sanity !🥴

For a full auto Airsoft gun the max limit for FPS is not that high 350fps or there abouts. depending on several factors using CO2 can push a GBBR over the legal limit and you might have to down grade. Look at barrel and hop settings to improve accuracy over power increases.

Hi, ALL! 👋 Happy New Year, players! 🥳 My first video for 2021, don’t expect any footage yet, but hopefully soon! 🔫🤞 Just keeping up morale for the Airsoft community! 🤪👍 Enjoy the video for what it is. 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Hi, ALL! 👋 Happy Christmas, not the best year, so stay safe and see what happens in 2021!?.... 😷👍 My last video of 2020, enjoy it for what it is. 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Hi, ALL! 👋 Sadly due to tier 4 my last game for 2020, won’t be happening.... though I did make a video yesterday and added an extra scene at the beginning, not bad and enjoy it for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Hi, ALL! 👋 Another video, my 3rd Loadout, collecting and mixing my fair share of BDU’s! 🤪👍 Enjoy for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Hi, ALL! 👋 Decided to make this video for beginners? Those of you that have been playing for longer, feel free to have a browse and see what you think? Enjoy it for what it is!🤔👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Hi, ALL! 👋 Another weekend I can’t play, my site was booked up! 😞 So did a review on my item, I purchased back at the beginning of the year before the SHTF! 😷 So enjoy it for what it is! 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷