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So I think I have finally decided to get a cm.045c as my first rif. Seems fairly good out of the box but looking for upgrade/loadout recommendations. so far I’m thinking of installing a mosfet, most likely a DIY job purely for trigger protection/response. replacing the barrel and possibly hop up. loadout-just simple red dot, small fold away front grip as room may be an issue with aj style mags. cheers

Thanks for the reply, I will put a pic up when I get one, along with any loadout or upgrade I may end up doing. But as suggested for now I will just get a feel for it as it comes.

Hi @Zitch! 👋 AK, ok!!!! 🔫😆 CYMA, good choice for beginning, bought my fair share of varieties, some are still factory setting and a few internal changes! 🤔👍 I have an E&L version, classic look! 🔫 It’s preference for customising. If your going for that more tactical look, a red dot sight on the top rail, yes, beware the side mount scope rail, will stop you from closing your folding stock. The grip that’s up to you and same with the internal, though try it out in back garden and a few games, then decide on tech work? 🤔 When you get it, make sure to post a pic on this topic and have fun when you can? 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Absolutely cracking bit of kit. I wish I got it as my first. Only thing I could recommend changing on it would be the air nozzle however this was just for my preference. The hop is absolutely fine and easily slings .28’s. As Shamal says, play with it first or at least put a few mags down your garden.

Haha yea good chance I will like it , and upgrades will be further down the line and likely when things fail, “if it ain’t broke” however I am thinking of adding the mosfet just for the protection and allow future use of 11.1v.

Sounds like a plan.👍 Regards

Try it first. Shock,horror.you may just like it as is! Lol Purely personal opinion but I think a fold up front grip would look pants.🤔 Form an orderly queue for lambasting that suggestion. 🙂👍 Regards

Hah cool, I still wouldn’t run a 6.01 on anything other than a pistol. 6.03 or 6.05 for an AEG. With 6.01 straightness is very important and it doesn’t take much dirt or crap BBs for things to go wrong when your barrel is longer than a pistol AND your pumping 25 BBs down there EVERY SECOND! Personally if I were you I would; Buy a new M100 and M90 from a known brand. Step down to 7.4V or get a slower motor - I can’t believe the motor you have is 18K, it doesn’t add up, you must have a good one!? Another option for you is; SS what you have by 3 teeth, that should drop you about 45 FPS. Put your sorbo pad in, that’ll drop another 5 FPS. SS BY 2 TEETH FIRST AND TEST - YOU CAN TAKE ANOTHER TOOTH OFF, BUT YOU CANNOT PUT IT BACK ON! Stil a good practice to buy a couple of known springs for your reference.

Acetech list different effectiveness for different models. Might be worth seeing if your manufacturer of choice does the same.

Hi, I am just looking to start in airsoft. I’m based near Rochdale. Reading the forum and learning a lot, can’t wait to get started!

Haha. I'm all for that. Happy new one fella👍 Regards

I filled mine full to the brim with mapp gas which is the equivalent (propylene?) And put a drop of abbey silicone oil on the fill valve and leave for about an hour before storing. I check there capacity by weighing them every now and again and thus far (2 months) they haven't lost a drop!

Hi, ALL! 👋 Happy New Year, players! 🥳 My first video for 2021, don’t expect any footage yet, but hopefully soon! 🔫🤞 Just keeping up morale for the Airsoft community! 🤪👍 Enjoy the video for what it is. 🔫😎👍 💷GAMBLE💷

Yeah possibly 22rps The calculation is a little under for good torque motors, and a smidge over for much faster motors at times... (I did say it was a rough ball park calculation) There are other factors like a motor's max efficiency, it's max possible speed - the 1.55 factor does not always apply, wiring, MOSFET used, battery... not all LiPo's perform the same, You can get a standard lame gun to hit near 18 - 19rps on 11.1v So yeah 22rps with 13:1 is achievable I concur

I reckon an 18k would see around 22 RPS. Which IMO sounds and performs excellent for a burst at a target in dense cover.

It’s not quite as simple as just bolting ‘X’ parts together to achieve 30 RPS reliably. You need to adjust AOE and short stroke it to prevent what has happened (PME) from happening again. Like @Sitting Duck explained. 30 RPS is pointless IMO - accuracy and ammo consumption is crap. 20-24 is a usable rate of fire, and you don’t have to worry about PME. Get a motor that turns around 18000rpm, run that with all your other parts and you’ll be sorted.

Man i need to brush up on my motor knowledge, i didnt twig that was a high speed. Feels like english isnt this guys first language i wonder if he's somewhere with mad fps limits where 45rps is feasable without pme?

Suck up! Lol😉 Only jokin' Regards

I've designed and 3D printed a rail for my FNX-45, with the plan to do a low-profile plate adapter if I ever get round to ordering a cheap red dot that includes one. More tweaking to follow to make it more low-profile.

He has sent me 6 pics of a tan glock but to be honest it could be any pic. I only asked if he could send pics of glock which he has done. I should have been more specific. I noticed that box is for air pistol 4.5mm

I didn’t realise empty boxes were worth so much. I should empty out my garage and raise a fortune.

I've messaged seller asking for pics of gun. I believe that he has blatantly tried to mislead.

Yeh, I said the same thing on his status update. A cheap T6 single-mode drop-in can be had for £6-7 quid off eBay. Problem is the current shipping situation from China.

The only thing I can suggest is checking that the barrel is right in, and clipped into the hop. On my Galaxy / JG clone MP5K, it's an absolute sod to get the barrel and rubber to go deep enough into the hop unit to get the securing clip on.

Usually up against the gearbox, many find gives the best results I've done the 3 hand chrono test a few times to check stuff out before I sling it back in gun or to confirm a process of elimination etc... but shifty hops in some guns can cause fps drops, hence things like springs/o-rings on hops help to ensure some shifty hops stay put or in place better other hops on different guns are more fastened in place like on AK's but M4's often benefit from a spring(s) or o-ring mod and/or o-ring method... just to stop the hop trying to come forward when say a mag is inserted thus pulling it away from box and creating a leak that drops fps etc...

Hold up !!!! this is an ongoing issue is it not ??? Now it "seems" that the cyma MP5 nozzle is a 21.4 ish nozzle... https://www.airsoftforum.com/topic/241139-massive-air-seal-nozzle-leakeage-on-a-cyma-mp5sd/ so it seems 21.4 to 21.5 ish is required... (also heard a Galaxy MP5k nozzle likes a SHS M4 too but the "shoulder" of red SHS M4 is too fat so needs modding to nozzle shoulder or modding/widen the Galaxy hop entry so chubby nozzle can operate smoothly) in other words not all MP5 nozzles are the usual MP5 length (different guns makes/hops work with different nozzle lengths than 1 size fits all) Also different nozzles sit differently or better/worse on some tappets... the clear cheapo cyma tappet is loose as f**k with a red SHS m4 nozzle (hence me using a SHS tappet but needs modding up front with cut outs for cyma box) What I might suggest is grab a SHS V2 tappet as these tappets retract most might be a bit bent, so straighten the right angle up front in hot water to true 90 degrees sand the front of tappet plate a bit, mod the sides up front to work in Cyma box if you sand the tappet front edge on a table with emery paper it will return a whisker further then you could carefully and very lightly sand the red M4 nozzle a whisker - just a whisker but as you sanded the front it will return to seal on hop unit/bucking... The new SHS tappet should retract further and allow a bb to chamber on a lightly sanded M4 nozzle (that still returns to seal as tappet front is sanded a bit) check for fin hitting axle of sector as in pic you may need to file it very slightly and very carefully smack bang in line with axle don't worry about not retracting long enough - delayers are not the solution to all feed issues a friggin' DSG fin is so short it retracts for a split second then returns... It is mostly about ensuring the tappet window is correct that is pulls back enough to chamber allowing a sprung loaded bb to slip in and chamber to bucking etc.... It don't matter shit if you got a mega delayer - if there is only 5.5mm room it will never chamber a 6mm bb past the nozzle so a long nozzle throws stuff out and seals great but feeding is shit or a shorter nozzle feeds great but seal is crap a worn fin, incorrect nozzle, protruding bucking lips and f**k knows what else will cause feed issues and V2 boxes have less overall retraction than V3's so on V2's the tappet window is more critical Yeah I'd be tempted to get a SHS v2 tappet, start modding the cutouts for Cyma box sand the front, check it is straight and 90 degrees, very very slightly sand the SHS M4 nozzle perhaps open box up, check & mark where fin meets sector axle - file with tiny round craft file at exact point check the tappet fully returns to front of box clearing the axle of sector as in pic Also check the tappet in TOP part of box with cylinder head, sector gear etc... check it doesn't bottom out on full retraction with cylinder head (SHS tappets do retract more) if delay clip is still on sector, check you don't feel a "bump" which is the delayer clip bumping the underside of tappet runner right underneath as the cam/delayer starts to engage the top of fin... if you feel this "bump" or slight resistance, then you need to lightly file the area about 1~3mm just in front of top of fin on the underside of tappet runner by the fin... BUT ONLY do this IF you feel a bump or resistance when testing in top half of box *** NB *** When I say 1~3mm I'm talking about the AREA or POSITION of AREA 1~3mm in front of fin NOT file off up to 3mm in depth - there will hardly anything left and fin would just tear off just a very light file around the few mm's just in front of tappet runner in front of fin Literally a very small filing & sanding just where cam might bump the runner If no "bump" is felt when testing it top of box - then don't worry about it, but important you check Test the tappet operation in top half of box - sounds weird but just do it When you test in the lower half there is too much play with sector wobble to truly check stuff So checking the final tappet retraction is much more accurate in top half of box (though you can't quite see the cam/fin operation, you see the full travel and feel for "bump") When all that is done, ensure the fin doesn't get stopped by axle, mod if needed (quite likely) then ensure smaller diameter shims are used as less likely to impede fin than jumbo shims IF tappet is risking bottoming out on cylinder head.... and IF you used one like this.... Look carefully at bottom of head and there is a small ridge.... Take off the o-rings, plop on a shitty old nozzle then file off that curved ridge at bottom CAREFULLY clean up and refit o-rings etc... Bit of f**king about but will gain you a potential extra 0.5mm to say 0.75mm or so space so tappet won't bottom out of cylinder head when retracting to its furthest point (the cylinder itself might be close to hitting the back of tappet but check in top box) if cylinder is just starting to touch the tappet, you could just file it very very slightly so that when you test (again in top half of box) it moves way way back and the whole operation is met with no resistance, no "bumps" or bottoming out and full complete return to front of box coz you carefully filed the fin by sector axle THEN you have a tappet that retracts as far back as possible & smoothly returns fully so you therefore have the largest tappet travel to give you a bigger tappet window With the correct nozzle in there, you should get a great seal and reliably feed bb's even on so-so mags THAT is about the best advice of everything I check for and nigh on every trick I have used to get max retraction etc... BUT as always it is down to YOU to check all this crap out and see if it all operates smoothly and effectively etc.... The SHS tappet will retract the most the round delayer I used in pic is brill, retracts more coz it has a bit of material over sector cam BUT using this delayer on SHS tappets that retract more does often mean it can bottom out and risk bumping tappet runner underneath It also retracts so much it bottoms out so need to give it some room to fully retract where ever possible But after all this f**king about, plus the modding for Cyma v2 boxes you will gain about 1mm extra retraction or just over that will greatly assist if not eliminate any feed issues (at least from tappet/nozzle retraction - w@nky bucking or hop or assembly alignment is another issue) As the V2's have about 1mm overall less tappet retraction than a V3 when stuff starts wearing like the fin, or nozzle spec or tolerances go just a tiny bit out of whack... you get fps loss or pi$$ poor feeding coz the allowance for nozzle clearing & sealing is so close As said if fin is worn, nozzle way too long, delayer will do little if fin hits axle, the tappet won't 101% fully return to seal so might need modding at axle area to ensure it returns if you look at Cyma's blue tappet you see they chopped the axle area... A SHS will need modding but found they retract a whisker more than other tappets so check some $hit out, do some tests order up a SHS tappet, use SHS M4 nozzle and do some tiny modifications for max tappet travel You MUST check for bottoming out coz if you allow it you will lose a whisker of retraction plus increased wear on fin or worse if tappet break/failure - so check $hit carefully !!! best of luck

It "sounds" like hop issue to me but I don't own one A quick test to do first: with box & hop out... when the nozzle is fully forward 101% place hop unit up against the box... you should "feel" the nozzle starting to seal against the bucking lips with still say a bit more to go before the hop rests 101% against the front of box then in normal operation the nozzle "should" be sealing properly If the above test is all OK then it could be a nozzle/tappet issue (the tappet is catching, not returning 101% in use) Or try std nozzle, sand tappet front a little but sounds like the nozzle is never sealing against bucking properly like the lips are way short of sealing with nozzle and air is pissing out or nozzle used is not sliding/aligned with hop correctly like a fat nozzle that is tight fit or catching against the hop and stopping it sealing (some nozzles - the "shoulder" can be too wide/fat on some hops & catch or drag in operation eg: some brand new G&G M4 hops are a bit of pinch with a SHS M4 nozzle & risk snagging) Your fps is way way way low you gotta test that the nozzle does seal against the bucking lips get them out - mate them up and see if you feel a bit of resistance from bucking lips they should just start to touch and you should have near 1mm gap from box say so when the hop is mated up properly there is a good seal of nozzle to bucking lips If that works out OK, next thing is to grow another pair of hands.... plop a bb into hop/barrel, mate it all up and chrono a few times... might take a few attempts to get it to fire a bb through chrono etc.... but hopefully you get a shot or two off through chrono.... if that says 300fps instead of 150fps or whatever you are getting then issue is the assembly of hop to box or the hop being shifted away from box when mag is inserted like it can happen on M4's if no spring or stuff pressing hop back towards box It "sounds" like bucking is way away from nozzle and think it "might" be poor alignment or tight fit nozzle or hop shifting forwards never letting nozzle seal properly (be it mag shifting it forwards or some other weird shit) break it down - the box & hop break down the problem testing them with 3 hands that they do kinda seal OK & chrono if that checks out then it is an alignment or fitting issue in gun - quite possible if you can feel it sealing with you holding the hop/box together then the bucking is not fitted correctly or needs investigating or nozzle/tappet issue (might have to go back to stock bits n bobs to get it working again & go from there) it is a process of elimination in most cases, often shit goes out of whack with more new parts but I'm tending to think if parts are compatible then something in the box/hop alignment has gone out of whack you got a m95 spring delayer 13:1 etc.... what battery you using and what motor - in other words what rps ??? I mean you got a delayer on it but what sort type ??? I doubt if tappet timing is an issue unless you are using a massive delayer & enormous fin but depending on tests... another area to consider is the chunky SHS sector with a chunky axle could be impeding the tappet returning 101% so the nozzle does not return fully coz the tappet fin is stopped by chunky axle on sector gimme a sec... pic says 1,000 words - see the sector axle & fin needed a bit of modding to prevent the tappet being stopped short on sector axle... now this mod was coz I sanded the thick front of SHS tappet, but it can risk catching a bit anyway (ahh the good ol' TM compatible bollox), when you start changing stuff The friggin' attention details on EVERY f**king part you change should NEVER be taken for granted coz this TM compatible BS means next to nothing - some shit works but often it don't just drop in many bits need checking and often a bit of sanding or tweak to ensure it works 101% as it should your nozzle "might" be risk being restricted by the fin stopping short on a chunky SHS sector BUT I don't know for certain in your case but it CAN happen in some builds (and SHS gears are quite chunky) Or - you could have the fin snagging on chunky shims on a low sector that a big diameter shim on top of sector starts to catch the fin at times in operation (it is rare but I always save smaller external diameter shims for top of sector) than use big fat diameter shims on top of sector.... or at least use smaller shims first on sector and a fatty shim last (you get the idea - watch out for potential fin snagging on sector axle/shims) but there are loads of things it "could" be a bit more info, a few tests an a pic or two could help, but a few ideas to try hope some of this crap helps PS - soz for overload/long post - but do the hand hop/box test first before you start stripping down stuff I suggest It is going to be something really really stupid & silly so don't go ultra nutz tearing things apart though maybe consider some of the crap and check EVERYTHING & EVERYWHERE when you starting changing & altering things in future builds to reduce potential headaches (if shit can go wrong then Murphy's Law says it will regarding TM Compatible crap)